THE  LIBRARY 
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JOURNAL, 

COMPRISING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  LOSS  OF  THE 

BRIG  COMMERCE, 

OF  HARTFORD,  (CON.)  JAMES  RILEY,  MASTER, 

UPON  THE  WESTERN  COAST  OF  AFRICA, 
AUGUST  28th,  1815; 

ALSO  OF  THE 

SLAVERY  AND  SUFFERINGS 

OF  THE 

AUTHOR  AND  THE  REST  OF  THE  CREW, 

UPON  THE 

DESERT  OF  ZAHARA, 

In  the  Years  1815,  1816,  1817; 

WITH  ACCOUNTS  OF  THE 

MANNERS,  CUSTOMS,  AND  HABITS 

OF  THE 

WANDERING  ARABS; 

ALSO, 

A  BRIEF  HISTORICAL  AND  GEOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  THC 
CONTINENT  OF  AFRICA. 


BY  ARCHIBALD  BOBBINS. 

EIGHTEENTH  EDITION. 
HARTFORD: 

PUBLISHED  BY  SILAS   ANDRU*. 

1825. 

Stereotyped  by  C.  St»rr,  N«ir-Y»rk. 


District  of  Connecticut,  ss. 

BE  it  remembered,  that  on  the  thirteenth  day  ot 
(L.  S.)  September  in  the  forty-second  year  of  the  Inde- 
pendence of  the  United  States  of  America,  Ar- 
chibald Robbins,  of  the  said  district,  hath  deposited  in  this 
office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims  as  Author 
and  proprietor,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : — "  A  Journal, 
comprising  an  account  of  the  loss  of  the  brig  Commerce,  of 
Hartford,  (Conn.)  James  Riley,  master,  upon  the  western  coast 
of  Africa,  August  28th,  1815  ;  Also,  of  the  slavery,  and  suffer- 
ings of  the  Author,  and  the  rest  of  the  crew,  upon  the  desert  of 
Zahara,  in  the  years  1815,  1816,  and  1817  ;  with  accounts  of 
the  manners,  customs,  and  habits  of  the  wandering  Arabs  ;  Al- 
so, a  brief  historical  and  geographical  view  of  the  continent  of 
Africa.     By  ARCHIBALD  ROBBINS." 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
entitled,  "  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  secu- 
ring the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  Authors  and 
Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  men- 
tioned." 

R.  I.  INGERSOLL, 
Clerk  of  the  District  of  Connecticut. 

A  true  copy  of  record,  examined  and  sealed  by  me, 

R.  I.  INGERSOLL, 

Clerk  of  the  District  of  Connecticut. 


TO  THE 

HON.  JAMES  SIMPSON, 

AMERICAN  CONSUL  GENERAL 

AT  TANGIER, 

AND   THE 

HON.  WILLIAM  WILLSHIRE, 

BRITISH   VICE   CONSUL,   AND   AMERICAN   CONSULAR  AGENT 

AT  MOGADORE— Africa  :— 
Gentlemen — 

Permit  me  to  offer  this  little  volume  to  you. 
I  have,  upon  the  ocean,  endured  the  distress  oc- 
casioned by  the  elements — upon  land,  the  mise- 
ries inflicted  by  man,  and  from  you  have  enjoyed 
the  blessings  of  humane  benevolence,  which  I 
can  repay  only  by  unalterable  gratitude. 

With  high  Respect, 

and  Consideration, 
I  am,  Gentlemen, 

Your  grateful  and  ob't.  servt. 

ARCHIBALD  ROBBINS. 


ENGLSH 


TO  THE  PUBLIC. 

I  SHALL  make  no  apology  for  offering  to  the 
public  the  following  Journal.  It  would  be  affec- 
tation to  pretend  that  in  doing  it,  I  have  been  in- 
fluenced by  motives  wholly  independent  of  per- 
sonal emolument.  My  object  in  preparing  and 
publishing  this  concise  and  simple  narrative  of 
my  own  sufferings,  experience  and  observations, 
among  a  people,  and  in  a  quarter  of  t'*ie  globe 
little  known  to  my  countrymen,  was  twofold — to 
obtain,  if  possible,  a  small  remuneration  for  the 
unprecedented  privations  and  sufferings,  of  which 
I  have  been  the  unfortunate  subject,  and  to  add 
to  the  scanty  knowledge  that  exists  with  respect 
to  this  singular  people,  and  extraordinary  por- 
tion of  the  earth,  such  facts  and  information  as 
I  was  enabled  to  obtain,  during  nineteen  months 
of  the  most  cruel  and  oppressive  slavery  which 
barbarism,  and  a  blind  and  ferocious  superstition 
could  produce. 

But  although  these  were  my  principal  objects, 
yet  had  they  not  been  presented  to  my  view,  and 
strengthened  by  circumstances  peculiarly  favor- 
able, I  should  never  have  been  persuaded  to  have 
engaged  in  so  arduous,  difficult  and  expensive  an 
undertaking.  The  wreck  of  the  brig  Commerce^ 
and  the  distressing  fate  of  the  crew,  was  known 
throughout  the  United  States ;  and  in  Connecti- 
cut, where  most  of  them  had  lived,  there  was  a 
lively  and  honorable  sensibility  felt  upon  the 
subject.     Under  these  circumstances,  on  my  re- 

A2 


VI  TO  THE  PUBLIC. 

turn  home  in  June  last,  it  is  not  a  matter  of  sur- 
prise that  my  friends,  and  others,  should  have 
felt  anxious  to  have  me  publish  the  "  sad  tale  ol 
my  sufferings." 

In  preparing  this  Journal,  I  have  aimed  to  be 
correct — to  give  a  faithful  and  accurate  detail  of 
facts;  and  although  it  will  probably  contain  some 
errors  even  in  this  respect,  yet  I  think  it  will  be 
free  from  the  charge  to  which  works  of  this  de- 
scription are  too  generally  and  too  justly  expo- 
sed, that  of  containing  strange  and  marvellous 
accounts.  Not  wishing  to  be  deceived  myself, 
I  cannot,  designedly,  become  the  instrument  of 
deceiving  others.  In  describing  the  manners, 
customs,  modes  of  living,  religious  ceremonies 
and  worship  of  the  Arabs,  I  have  observed  a 
minuteness  which  many  may  think  unnecessary. 
But  as  the  variance  of  a  few  shades  changes  the 
complexion  and  general  appearance  of  a  piece 
of  painting,  so  a  fewr  minute,  and  apparently  un- 
important particulars,  affect,  essentially,  the  ge- 
neral characteristics  of  a  people. 

It  was  found  impossible,  in  the  course  of  the 
work,  to  avoid  incorporating  some  of  the  proper 
Barnes  of  the  Arabs ;  in  doing  which  I  have 
been  obliged  to  adopt  an  English  orthography, 
and  the  barbarous  and  guttural  sounds  of  their 
words  appear,  if  possible,  still  more  harsh  when 
put  in  an  English  dress.  Wherever  Arabic 
terms  or  words  have  been  used,  they  have  gen- 
erally been  explained ;  but  the  words  Wiled 
and  Biled  which  occur  frequently  in  the  work, 
not  having  been  explained  in  the  text,  it  may  nof 
he  improper  to  inform  the  reader  in  this  place, 


TO  THE  PUBLIC.  VII 

that  the  latter  signifies  country,  and  the  former 
sons  of;  that  is,  denoting  the  first  or  primitive 
stock  from  whence  the  tribes  have  descended. 
These  words,  from  the  rapid  speaking  of  the 
natives,  are  pronounced  WilVd  and  BHed — as, 
WilVd  Abbousebah — B^led  Mouessa  Alt. 

Having  had  no  other  than  a  common  educa- 
tion, and  from  the  pursuits  in  which  I  have  been 
engaged,  it  could  not  be  supposed  that  I  should 
make  much  pretension  to  literature.  In  pre- 
paring the  work,  I  have  been  assisted  by  a  gen- 
tleman of  science  and  information,  who  has  be- 
stowed upon  it  considerable  attention,  and  given 
it  a  shape  and  character  which  it  could  not  have 
assumed  if  it  had  gone  from  my  own  hand,  un- 
assisted by  literary  skill  or  scientific  acquire- 
ments. 

ARCHIBALD  ROBBINS. 


THE  MAP. 

THE  Map  attached  to  this  volume  is  added 
to  illustrate  the  subject  of  it.  It  was  not  made 
to  aid  the  geographer,  but  to  assist  the  reader 
in  tracing  the  eccentric  course  the  author  was 
compelled  to  travel  with  his  Arab  masters.  The 
Western  coast  of  Africa  and  the  Desert  of  Zahara 
are  represented  with  as  much  accuracy  as  was 
attainable  from  the  observations  of  the  author 
and  from  the  most  approved  maps.  The  gene- 
ral situation  of  the  different  tribes  is  laid  down 
upon  the  map,  although  their  frequent  wander- 
ings almost  precludes  the  idea  of  giving  locality 
to  them.  The  great  station  for  caravans  is  de- 
signated, although  there  may  be  others  un- 
known to  the  author.  If  errors  should  be  de- 
tected in  the  map,  by  the  acute  examiner,  the 
author  can  only  say,  "  to  err  is  huma?i,  to  forgive 
divine." 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  I. 


•~b' 


Short  biogpaphical  sketch — Voyages — Author  is  taken  pri- 
soner by  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Surprise — discharged — taken 
again,  and  held  till  peace. — Brig  Commerce — her  owners 
and  crew — voyage  to  New -Orleans — to  Gibraltar — her 
wreck  on  the  African  coast  -  -  -  IS 

CHAP.  II. 

Shipwrecks — Wreck  of  the  brig  Commerce  described — 
danger  of  the  crew — landing  on  the  African  coast — 
wrecked  articles — disposal  of  money — first  view  of  a 
wandering  Arab  of  the  Zahara  Desert — he  is  joined  by 
more — they  approach  us,  menace  us,  and  retire — first 
night  in  Africa — we  are  driven  aboard  the  wreck — at- 
tempt to  go  to  sea  in  a  boat — in  vain — escape  of  Capt. 
Riley  and  capture  of  Antonio  -  -  -  21 

CHAP.  III. 

A  consultation — measures  adopted  to  clear  the  surf — we 
put  to  sea  in  the  long  boat — alarms  and  distresses — stood 
01A  four  days — stood  in  three  days,  and  landed  on  the 
5th  Sept.  1815,  to  the  north  of  Cape  Barbas,  western 
coast  of  Africa  -----  30 

CHAP.  IV. 

Brief  historical  sketch  of  the  discoveries  upon  the  African 
continent — origin  of  present  European  nations,  and  Afri- 
can tribes — Canary  Islands — CapeBajador — Porto  Santo 
—Madeira— Cape  Verd-- Cape  of  Good  Hope— De  Ga- 
ma — Columbus — East-Indies — America — Coast  of  Africa 
— Interior  of  Africa  3$ 

CHAP.  V. 

Passage  from  Cape  Barbas— mutual  pledge— the  coast — 
crossing  precipice — projecting  rock — watery  cavern — 
view  of  Zahara — sleeping  on  hill — prayer — capture  by 
Arabs,  and  separation  -  ...  50 

CHAP.  VI. 

Separation  of  the  crew— taking  leave— departure  into  the 
desert— mode  of  travelling — water— goat  skin— arrival 
at  a  tent— mode  of  making  fire— cooking  and  eating— 


CONTENTS. 

travelling  upon  Z»feara — Mahommedan  worship — cloth- 
ing      63 

CHAP.  VII. 
Meeting  with  part  of  the  crew — preparations  for  a  jour- 
ney— tent — furniture — man-saddle — female  do. — load- 
ing tent  and  furniture — gazelle — Mr.  Williams  and  Bar- 
rett— Christian  and  Mahommedan  religion — separation 
— mode  of  spinning  and  weaving — of  making  a  tent — 
of  pitching  it — scrupulous  regard  to  worship  -  75 

CHAP.  VIII. 

Painful  travelling — salutations — Mr.  Williams'  situation — 
Barrett — rocks — Africans  enslave  each  other — a  wander- 
ing male  Arab — female  do. — American  pork — Mr.  Sa- 
vage— interview  with  him — a  rarity  88 

CHAP.   IX. 

Origin  of  wandering  Arabs — vegetables  on  the  desert  Za- 
hara — gloomy  prospect — roots — snails — water  obtained 
— submission  to  fate — last  meeting  and  last  interview 
with  Capt.  Riley,  Mr.  Savage,  Clarke,  Burns,  and  Ho- 
race— situation  upon  desert — valley — meeting  with  Por- 
ter      98 

CHAP.  X. 

Sympathy — Hogan — his  situation  and  feelings — received 
at  the  tent  of  Ganus — my  mistress — fictitious  ceremony 
— power  of  the  female  Arabs — gloomy  valley — Dick — 
misery  of  black  Africans — Messrs.  Wilberforce  and 
Clarkson — American  flag  upon  Zahara  desert  -  112 

CHAP.  XI. 

A  shower — a  female  fashion— an  adventure — a  journey — 
dress  of  a  wandering  Arab  -smoking — Gum-Arabic — 
slaying  a  camel — a  repast — Hogan — Arab  hospitality         121 
CHAP.  XII. 

A  storm  of  sand — distress — a  great  story — Porter's  sick- 
ness— a  dismal  plain — rapid  travelling — nauseous  water 
— description  ot  a  well  in  Zahara  desert — marble  moun- 
tain— deep  valley  and  monument— impossibility  of  es- 
caping— Spaniard — view  of  the  ocean — Cape  Mirik — 
author  sold  to  another  Arab  of  the  tribe  of  Wiled  D'leim  130 

CHAP.  XIII. 

Africa — the  coast — Interior — Deserts — Mountains — Capes 
— Rivers — Islands — Straits  ...  ]_4tf 

CHAP.  XIV. 
Mahomet  Meaar^h — Fishing — Cape  Mirik — innocent  de- 
ception— obstinacy — Barrett — Hon.  William  Willshire — 


CONTENTS. 

calendar — second  tour  into  the  desert — thanksgiving — 
description  of  camel — mode  of  instruction  in  reading  and 
writing  ------        155 

CHAP.  XV. 
A  long  journey — Porter — locusts,  mtde  of  catching,  cook- 
ing, and  eating  them — narrow   escape — Mahommedan 
teacher — blacksmith  upon  the  desert — salt-bed — debili- 
ty approaching  to  death  ...  -      16$ 

CHAP.  XVI. 

Medical  practice — Hogan  and  Dick — sale  of  Porter — hap- 
piness in  Zahara — author  regains  his  health — is  sold  to 
Hamet  Webber,  an  Arab  merchant  of  the  Wiled  El 
Kabla — African  and  European  merchandise — an  expect- 
ed battle — gunnery — females  of  the  El  Kabla  tribe  170 
CHAP.  XVII. 

A  Caravan — an  armed  Arab — black  mountains — cultiva- 
ted land — apprehension  of  danger — African  serpents — 
Hamet  joins  a  caravan  which  is  attacked — mountains  of 
s.-md — fatigue -caravan  broken  up -author  sold  to  Bel 
Cossim  Abdallah  of  Wadinoon — wounded  Arab — arrival 
at  Wadinoon,  -  -  -  -  -  188 

CHAP.  XVIII. 

Wadinoon — its  situation  number  of  houses  and  inhabitants 
— cattle — people  gardens — vegetables — barley  harvest 
— cruelty  of  Bel  Cossim — reaping,  threshing,  winnowing 
and  grinding—  keskoosoo — eating — market  and  fairs — 
manner  of  building  houses — Sheick's  house        -        -      197 

CHAP.  XIX. 

Public  worship — fasting  season — feasting  season — circum- 
cision— wreck  of  a  prize  to  the  Romp,  and  her  crew — re- 
demption of  the  crew  of  the  British  brig  Surprise — Sidi 
Hesham,  his  appearance  and  power — Jews,  decree  con- 
cerning them— tobacco  and  snuff—  Hamet  Webber  209 

CHAP.  XX. 
\ature  of  government  among  the  Arabs — marriage  cere- 
monies— interment  of  dead — the  Saint,  Sidi  Timah— a 
mound — practice  of  physic — amusements — ransom  of 
Porter — quarrel  between  Wadinoon  and  Akkadia — a 
flood — ploughing  season — description  of  locusts — mutto- 
morahs  ------         217 

CHAP.  XXI. 

Manuscript  in  English — author  purchased  by  a  Shiliuh — 
leaves  Wadinoon — dangerous  travelling — distant  view  of 
Santa  Cruz — monuments — EPajjah  Mahomet — letter  and 
express  sent  to  Mogadore — the  Shiliuh — productions  of 


CONTENTS. 

their  country— story  of  the  Spaniard— message  from  Mo- 
gadore — passport  to  that  place  ...       230 

CHAP.  XXII. 

Departure  with  El'ajjah  Mahomet — El-wad  Sta — sand 
hills — the  ocean — Atlas  mountains — arrival  at  Santa 
Cruz — description  of  that  place — passage  over  a  moun- 
tain— a  contrast — romantic  view — cottage  in  a  forest — 
dogs — view  of  Mogadore — reception  by  Mr.  Willshire — 
admission  into  his  house — cheering  American  flag  24 1 

CHAP.  XXIII. 

Character  of  Mr.  Willshire — description  of  Mogadore — 
the  Jews — markets — manufactures — public  buildings — 
mode  of  worship — manners  of  the  people — population — 
harbor — shipwrecks — letter  from  the  Hon.  James  Simp- 
son   250 

CHAP.  XXIV. 

The  author,  Davis,  and  Brown,  leave  Mogadore  for  Tan- 
gier^— the  country — Azamor — river  Qmmirabih — Douar 
of  tents — fearful  apprehensions — equestrian  exercise — 
escape  by  night — aqueduct — arrival  at  Rabat  -        257 

CHAP.  XXV. 

Rabat,  description  of  it — the  harbour — shad — Mr.  Abou- 
derham — Jewish  feast — Sallee — a  Lake — river  Saboo — 
scenery — Rock  of  Gibraltar,  and  Mount  Atlas — arrival  at 
Tangier — reflections — Hon.  James  Simpson — Mount 
Washington,  in  Africa — passage  to  Gibraltar — Mr.  Hen- 
ry, consul— Mr.  Simpson's  letter  -  -  264 


INTRODUCTION. 

THE  narratives  and  journals  of  advent  *ers, 
the  shipwrecked,  the  traveller,  and  the  captive, 
are  often  told  with  exaggerations,  and  not  un- 
frequently  condemned  by  the  discerning.  Sue), 
narrations  gratify  those  who  are  always  seeking 
•;  to  see  or  hear  some  new  thing  ;"  but  they  only  rai&> 
the  wonder  of  the  credulous,  and  deceive  the  in- 
quirer after  truth.  But  it  may  be  here  remark- 
ed, that  readers  are  readily  disposed  to  disbe- 
lieve every  thing  that  goes  counter  to  their  own 
experience,  that  surpasses  their  own  observa- 
tions, or  that  represents  the  actions  of  men,  and 
men  themselves,  in  a  manner  that  violates  their 
ideas  of  human  nature.  The  author  of  the  fol- 
lowing Jounal  has  seen  life  in  a  sphere  uncom 
mon  to  his  countrymen  : — he  has  endured  mise- 
ries uncommon  to  human  nature.  But  by  the 
blessings  of  a  merciful  Providence,  he  has  sur- 
vived to  relate  them  to  his  countrymen.  How- 
ever imperfect  may  be  the  manner  in  which  he 
may  give  his  relation,  he  is  determined  that  the 
matter  shall  be  founded  on  facts  alone.  If  these 
facts  are  of  a  nature  calculated  to  excite  the 
doubts  of  his  readers,  he  can  only  regret  it;  and 
will  content  himself  with  the  reflection,  that  as 
he  is  incapable  of  deceiving  his  readers,  he  will 
not  wound  his  own  conscience  by  uttering  a 
known  falsehood.  lie  hopes  not  even  to  be  mis- 
taken. 

B 


I  i  INTRODUCTION. 

The  narrative  of  my  highly  respected  friend, 
Capt.  James  Riley,  is  already  before  the  public. 
It  has  excited  that  interest  which  the  history  of 
human  sufferings  is  calculated  to  produce  among 
a  humane  people.  For  two  months  he  was  a 
captive  among  a  race  of  beings,  whose  "  tender 
mercies  are  cruelties.1''  Durivig  that  period,  I,  toge- 
ther with  the  rest  of  his  unfortunate  crew,  was 
likewise  a  sufferer.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  he 
was  released  from  a  cruel  bondage,  and  was  re- 
stored to  his  native  country  and  anxious  friends. 
A  more  cruel  fate  attended  me.  I  was  still  de- 
tained as  a  captive  among  the  wandering  Arabs: 
and  was  compelled,  for  nineteen  months,  to  en- 
dure as  much  as  human  nature  can  bear  and  yet 
survive.  1  have,  however,  abundant  reason  to 
rejoice  that  I  am  now  among  my  friends,  while 
the  fate  of  some  of  this  wretched  crew  is  still 
unki  own.  The  following  journal  shall  be  a 
faith  hi  and  accut  ate  detail  of  all  the  knowledge 
I  possess  of  this  ill-fated  crew. 


JOURNAL,  *c. 


CHAP.  I. 


Short  biographical  sketch — Voyages — Author  is  taken  prisoner 
by  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Surf  rise — discharged — taken  again,  and 
held  till  peace. —Brig  Commerce—her  owners  and  crew — voy- 
age (o  New-Orleans— to  Gibraltar— her  wreck  on  the  African 

coast. 

THE  life  of  an  humble  individual  is  of  but 
little  consequence  to  a  community,  where  the 
lives  of  the  great  are  read  as  a  common  amuse- 
ment. But  as  I  am  about  to  relate  an  inte- 
resting part  of  my  own,  I  hope  I  shall  escape  the 
imputation  of  vanity  by  very  briefly  relating  it 
from  my  birth.  I  was  born  ii  -he  town  of  Weth- 
crsfield,  Conn. — a  pleasant  and  fertile  town, 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  Connecticut  river, 
on  the  10th  day  of  November,  1792.  I  conti- 
nued with  my  parents  there  until  I  arrived  to 
the  age  of  twelve  years.  At  this  time  I  went  to 
reside  in  the  town  of  Middle  bury,  Vt.  In  this 
flourishing  village,  in  which  is  situated  a  Uni- 
versity which  begins  to  rank  amongst  the  first 
in  New-England,  I  spent  the  winters  in  obtain- 
ing a  common  school  education;  which,  added 
to  the  little  knowledge  I  had  before  acquired 
in  my  native  town,  gave  me  such  rudiments  of 
an  English  education,  as  is  common  with  the 


16  ROBBING  JOl/RNAL. 

young  men  of  New-England.  I  returned  to 
Wethersfield  at  tlie  age  of  about  fifteen  years, 
and  continued  with  my  father  until  I  became 
sixteen.  Situ  ted  in  a  town  where  ship-buiid 
ing  was  then  a  leading  business,  and  from  which 
a  great  number  of  young  men  had  gone  to  try 
their  fortunes  upon  the  ocean,  1  soon  turned  my 
attention  from  the  peaceful  and  certain  pursuii 
of  husbandry,  to  the  hazardous  employment  ot 
a  seaman. 

My  first  voyage  was  made  in  a  vessel,  partly 
owned  by  my  father,  from  Wethersfield  to  the 
island  of  St.  Christophers.  No  incident  hap- 
pened to  the  vessel,  to  the  crew,  nor  to  myself, 
worthy  of  relation.  No  part  of  the  cargo,  nor 
any  lives  of  the' crew  were  lost. 

The  second  voyage  1  made  was  in  the  same 
VCSSel  to  Wilmington,  N.  Carolina,  from  thence 
to  the  W.  Indies — hack  again  to  Wilmingion— 
from  thence  again  to  the  West-Indies,  and  bad. 
to  Wethersfield.     A  pleasant  voyage. 

My  third  voyage  was  mule  from  New-York 
to  the  West-fndies,  from  whence  I  returned  to 
New-London  in  Conned i<  ut. 

Thus  far  I  had  met  with  no  disasters  uncom- 
mon to  the  pursuit  of  a  sea-firing  life.  I  became 
attached  to  it,  as  is  common  with  ftie  young  men 
of  New-England.  The  fascinating  charins  of  the 
ocean,  and  the  pteasing.diversky  of  a  sailor's  life, 
led  me  along,  like  the  song  of  the  Syren,  to  th't 
endurance  of  privations  and  miseries  ivhieri, 
when  I. now  review,  call  upon  me  for  the  most 
nndissembled  gratitude  to  that  merciful  Being. 
who  suffers  not  a  sparnr.v  to  fi.il  i<>  the  ground 


ROBBING  JOURNAL.  17 

without  his  knowledge;  and  who  mercifully 
"  tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb." 

My  fourth  voyage  was  commenced  in  the 
month  of  February,  1013.  The  American  can- 
vass could  no  longer  be  spread  with  safety  upon 
the  ocean.  Her  proud  and  powerful  mistress — 
wielding  the  trident  of  Neptune,  would  no  longer 
permit  the  "  striped  bunting"  of  Americans  to 
pursue  its  wonted  course.  We  sailed  from  New- 
York  for  the  neutral  port  of  St.  Bartholomews — 
were  taken  on  our  passage,  by  his  B.  M.  frigate 
Surprise,  and  landed  at  St.  Bartholomews,  from 
whence,  after  a  short  detention,  I  returned  in  & 
cartel  to  New-York. 

The  fifth  voyage  I  made,  I  sailed  from  New- 
Haven,  (Ct.)  for  St.  Bartholomews,  in  Septem- 
ber, 1813,  and  was  brought  to  by  the  British 
squadron  lying  off  New-London.  They  took 
from  our  vessel  about  eighty  barrels  of  provi- 
sions, and  ordered  us  for  Halifax.  I  remained 
there  about  two  months.  I  then  took  a  passage 
inaSwedish  vessel  for  St.  Bartholomews;  having 
business  entrusted  to  me  at  that  island  by  a  mer- 
chant in  the  city  of  New- York.  I  succeeded  in 
accomplishing  my  business,  and  returned  off 
New-London.  The  vessel,  in  which  I  was  a  pas- 
senger, was  taken  by  the  squadron,  and  I  was  put 
on  board  of  the  Borer,  brig  of  war,  and  sent  again 
to  Halifax.  I  remained  a  prisoner  in  the  prison 
on  Melville  island,  until  the  conclusion  of  the 
peace  by  the  treaty  of  Ghent.  I  hoped  to  have 
been  in  some  measure  compensated  for  this  im- 
prisonment, by  receiving  pay  for  eighteen  months 

employ,  and  imprisonment  occasioned  by  that  em- 
us 


J  8  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ploy,  by  the  merchant  at  New-York. — His  faiiutv 
in  the  mean  time  cut  me  off  from  realizing  this 
hope;  but  as  he  is  a  man  of  the  strictest  honour  S 
have  no  doubt  but  1  shall  yet  be  compensated. 
On  my  return  to  America,  1  found  myself  destitute 
of  property  and  employ,  but  not  of  resolution. 

I  now  come  to  the  relation  of  the  sixth  and  iast 
royage  I  have  made.  In  relating  it  1  sensibly  feci 
a  high  degree  of  responsibility.  But,  taking  the 
pole-star  of  truth  for  my  guide,  I  am  determined 
o  satisfy  my  conscience,  and,  if  possible,  mv 
readers. 

I  felt  anxious  to  pursue  a  business  with -which 
experience  had  made  me  acquainted.  The  brig 
Commerce,  of  Hartford,  Con.  being  owned  by  Ri- 
ley «fc  Brown  and  the  Messrs.  Savages,  was  fitted 
for  sea.  She  was  a  fine  stout  built  new  vessel. 
The  acknowledged  respectability  of  her  owners. 
as  merchants,  and  the  long  experience  and  repu- 
ation  of  Cantai  i  James  Riley,  as  her  command- 
er, induced  me  to  enter  her  in  the  capacity  of  an 
able  seaman.  Ho-' principal  mate  was  Mr. George 
Williams,  of  Middietown — her  second  mate  was 
Mr.  Aaron  R.  Savage,  of  the  same  place.  The 
crew  consisted  of  'V>ll'<mi  Porter,  Thomas  Burns. 
James  Clarke,  and  r:  )  self,  seamen;  Horace  Savage, 
cabin  boy;  Francis  Bliss,  James  Carrington,  ordi- 
nary seamen  ;  and  Richard  Delisle,  (a  man  of  co- 
lour.) cook. 

This  brig  cleared  out  from  Middietown  for 
New-Orleans,  with  a  small  cargo — her  ballast 
being  brick.  The  object  of  the  voyage  to  New- 
Orleans  was  to  obtain  a  freight  for  a  foreign  mar- 
ket.   We  sailed  on  the  6th  day  of  May  from  Say- 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  19 

brook,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Connecticut  ri- 
ver. Nothing  material  occurred  until  off  Gary  3- 
iort  reef,  on  the  coast  of  E.  Florida.  The  vessel 
struck  upon  this  reef,  and  excited  great  appre- 
hension in  our  captain  and  crew  for  the  safety 
of  the  vessel  and  ourselves.  We  clewed  down 
all  sails,  and  let  go  an  anchor,  which  immediate- 
ly brought  her  to ;  having  passed  the  reef,  and 
riding  safe  in  about  twelve  feet  water.  We  thou 
lowered  down  her  stern  boat;  and  the  captain 
and  four  of  the  crew  entered  her-^sounded  be- 
low her  for  a  safe  passage — found  one — weighed 
anchor,  atid  passed  through  in  safety.  We  ar- 
rived at  the  city  of  New-Orleans  upon  the  1st 
day  of  June.  We  here  discharged  our  cargo, 
and  took  in  a  cargo  of  flour  and  tobacco.  The 
two  ordinary  seamen,  Bliss  and  Carrington,  ob- 
jected to  going  a  voyage  to  Gibraltar,  to  which 
place  the  vessel  was  bound,  and  were  discharg- 
ed. Two  seamen  were  shipped  in  their  room. 
viz.  John  Hoqan  and %  James  Barrett.  On  the 
24th  of  June,  we  sailed  from  New-Orleans  for 
Gibraltar ;  and,  after  a  passage  of  about  forty - 
five  days,  we  arrived  at  that  place  and  landed 
our  cargo.  I  was  ordered,  with  three  others, 
while  lying  in  the  bay,  to  go  with  Capt.  Riley  on 
board  a  schooner,  from  New-York.  In  perform- 
ing this  service,  assisting  the  schooner  in  beat- 
ing out  of  the  harbor,  and  returning  to  the  brig, 
it  having  become  almost  dark,  our  boat  was  up- 
set; and  while  we  were  hanging  upon  it,  we  were 
relieved  by  Capt.  Price,  who  returned  with  his 
schooner  to  our  assistance  ;  and  having  bailed 
(he  boat  we  returned  to  the  brig. 


>20  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

We  now  took  in  part  of  a  cargo  of  brandy  and 
wine.  An  elderly  man,  by  the  name  of  Antonio 
Michel,  was  taken  on  board  to  work  his  passage 
to  New-York.  On  the  23d  day  of  August,  we 
set  sail  from  Gibraltar  for  the  Cape  de  Verd 
islands,  to  complete  the  cargo  with  salt.  The 
usual  course  from  Gibraltar  to  these  islands  is, 
to  run  down,  and  make  the  island  of  Madeira ; 
but  Capt.  Riley,  wishing  to  make  the  passage  as 
expeditious  as  possible,  run  down  between  the 
Canary  islands  and  the  African  coast.  We  con- 
tinued our  course,  with  all  sails  set.  The  wea- 
ther being  thick  and  foggy,  we  passed  the  grand 
Canaries  without  discovering  them.  It  was  no- 
ticed by  the  mates  and  some  of  the  crew,  on  the 
28th  day  of  August,  (sea  account,)  at  meridian, 
that  the  water  was  coloured,  indicating  a  near 
approach  to  land.  This  circumstance  was  men- 
tioned to  Capt.  Riley;  but  he  was  of  opinion  that 
this  appearance  was  occasioned  by  the  fog  and 
the  thick  weather  ;  and  he  continued  his  course 
S.  W.  at  ten  knots  an  hour,  until,  at  about  10 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  were  wrecked  on  the 
coast  of  Africa,  near  Cape  Bajador,  between  26 
and  27  degs.  N.  Latitude. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  2  J 


CHAP.  [I. 

Shipwrecks — Wreck  of  the  brig  Commerce  described — danger  of 
the  crezv — landing  on  the  African  coast — wrecked  articles  - 
disposal  of  money— first  view  of  a  wandering  Arab  of  the  Zu 
hara  Desert — he  is  joined  by  more — they  approach  us,  menace 
us,  and  retire  —first  night  in  Africa — we  are  driven  aboard 
the  wreck — attempt  to  go  to  sea  in  a  boat — in  vain — escape  of 
Cftpt.  Riley  and  capture  of  Antonio. 

TO  a  seaman,  the  description  of  a  shipwreck 
is  familiar  from  his  knowledge  of  a  vessel,  the 
tackle,  and  the  nautical  terms  of  sea-faring  men: 
but  by  that  portion  of  readers  who  are  not  thus 
acquainted,  no  adequate  conception  can  he 
formed  of  the  appalling  horrors  of  such  a  scene. 
When  it  is  foreseen,  and  yet  cannot  be  avoided, 
the  mind  is,  in  a  degree,  prepared  to  encounter 
it.  It  is  fortified  greatly  by  appealing  to  that 
Being  who,  "  on  the  ivings  of  mighty  winds"  di- 
rects the  storm  that  is  powerful  enough  to  dash 
to  pieces  the  strongest  fabrick  of  human  inven- 
tion. But  when  it  comes  upon  the  unsuspicious, 
who  are  riding  in  apparent  security  upon  th  \ 
element  with  which  they  have  become  familiar, 
tiie  scene  is  doubly  horrible.  Thus  it  came  up- 
on our  worthy  captain  and  his  ill-fated  crew. 
The  gale,  that  we  imagined  was  wafting  us  on 
our  passage  to  our  native  shore,  and  the  arms  of 
our  friends,  dashed  us  upon  the  inhospitable 
coast  of  merciless  barbarians.  At  a  little  past 
!;>,  on  the  night  of  the  memorable  28th  of  Au- 
gust, our  fine  brig  ran  ashore  with  such  violence 
as  to  start  us  from  the  deck,  or  prostrate  us  up- 


22  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

on  it.  We  immediately  let  go  our  sheet  anchor, 
clewed  down  our  sails,  and  used  every  exertion 
to  save  her.  But  her  fate  was  decided,  and  our 
exertions  were  vain.  The  sea  broke  with  tre- 
mendous power  over  the  starboard  quarter,  and 
our  stern  boat,  being  in  danger,  we  took  her  on 
board.  We  then  broke  open  the  hold,  and  ex- 
erted all  our  energies  in  filling  small  casks 
with  water  from  our  large  water  casks,  know- 
ing that  the  dismal  coast  on  which  fate  had 
driven  us,  was  almost  destitute  of  that  indispen- 
sable necessary  of  life.  We  also  secured  all  the 
provisions  we  could,  as  the  vessel  was  now  fast 
filling  with  water.  At  12  o'clock,  the  weather 
became  sufficiently  clear  to  enable  us  to  disco- 
ver the  beach  off  (he  larboard  bow.  The  lar- 
board bulwark  was  instantly  cut  away,  to  ena- 
ble us  to  launch  the  boats  with  greater  expedi- 
tion and  safety.  The  small  boat  was  then  low- 
ered into  the  water,  into  which  Capt.  Riley  and 
William  Porter  jumped,  and  carried  a  rope 
ashore  which  they  made  fast  by  means  of  sticks 
which  had  floated  there  from  the  wreck.  We 
then  got  the  long-boat  overboard,  and  hauled 
her  under  our  larboard  bow.  We  threw  over 
some  barrels  of  water  and  wine,  which  floated 
ashore,  and  by  those  on  shore  were  secured. 
We  put  into  the  boat  two  or  three  barrels  of 
bread,  and  some  beef  and  pork.  I  jumped  into 
the  boat  with  James  Barrett,  and,  veering  her 
by  means  of  a  rope  fastened  on  board  the  brig, 
we  approached  the  shore.  The  surf  immedi- 
ately filled  her.  We  instantly  jumped  over- 
board, and  saved  some  of  our  u-pt  provisions. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  23 

and  secured  one  barrel  of  bread  wholly  dry. 
Capt.  Riley,  Porter,  Barrett  and  myself  were 
now  ashore.  The  long  boat  being  bilged,  and 
the  small  one  unable  to  stand  the  surf,  we  could 
not  return  to  the  wreck.  Our  companions  on 
board,  in  the  mean  time,  were  heaving  over- 
board chests,  beds,  and  every  article  that  would 
float,  that  they  could  come  at,  and  those  of  us 
on  shore  were  securing  ihem  as  they  floated 
within  our  reach.  Day-light  at  length  appear- 
ed. Capt.  Riley  hailed  the  mates,  who  were 
both  on  board,  ordering  them  to  make  fast  one 
of  the  ropes,  that  extended  from  the  wreck  to 
the  shore,  around  his  trunk  containing  some  spe- 
cie. This  being  done,  we  dragged  the  trunk 
ashore.  The  brig  was  now  completely  filled 
vrith  water.  Capt  Riley  ordered  the  masts  to 
be  cut  away.  This  being  done  by  those  on 
board,  our  next  attention  was  directed  to  the 
best  means  in  our  power,  to  rescue  our  compan- 
ions from  the  imminent  danger  surrounding 
them.  I  had  been  ordered,  with  Barrett,  to 
come  ashore  in  the  long  boat  with  provisions,  as 
before  mentioned,  and  to  return  again.  This 
was  now  impracticable,  as  the  boat  was  bilged 
— the  small  boat  would  not  have  lived  in  the 
surf  a  moment — but  a  rope  remained  fastened 
to  the  wreck,  and  extending  to  the  shore.  This 
was  loosened,  and  made  fast  to  the  hawser,  by 
those  on  board,  and  by  those  who  had  landed, 
drawn  to  the  shore,  and  made  a3  fast  as  the  slen- 
der means  within  our  power  would  enable  us  to 
do  it.  It  was  now  high  water.  The  brig  lay 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  rods  from  the  shore ; 


24  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  % 

and  between  them,  the  surf  was  rolling  and  roar- 
ing in  a  manner  calculated  to  produce  conster- 
nation and  despair  in  the  stoutest  heart.  Capt. 
Riley,  by  signals,  as  he  could  not  now  be  heard, 
motioned  to  those  upon  the  wreck  to  come 
ashore  upon  the  hawser.  He  placed  himself, 
together  with  Porter,  Barrett,  and  myself  at  the 
hawser,  as  far  in  the  water  as  we  could  stand, 
the  surf  all  the  while  breaking  over  us.  At 
length  Hogan  attempted  the  perilous  passage. 
Suspended  upon  the  hawser,  between  two 
worlds,  uncertain  to  which  every  returning  surge 
might  waft  him,  he  approached  the  shore.  Be- 
fore he  reached  it.  he  was  so  much  exhausted, 
that  he  lost  his  hold — a  surf  washed  him  within 
our  reach,  and  we  saved  him.  The  next  that 
arrived  and  was  received  into  our  arms  was  Mj. 
Savage,  second  mate.  Young  Savage,  (cabin 
boy,)  Antonio,  Mr.  Williams,  first  mate,  Clarke, 
Burns,  and  Dick,  (man  of  colour,)  came  in  suc- 
cession, and  landed  at  about  sunrise  on  a  coast 
containing  a  race  of  beings  more  merciless  than 
the  waves  from  which  they  had  just  escaped. 

We  now  found  ourselves  with  bodies  exhaust- 
ed, and  minds  agitated,  stretched  upon  a  desert 
shore.  We  saw,  for  nearly  a  mile  on  the  shore, 
the  fragments  of  a  valuable  cargo,  which,  twelve 
hours  before,  we  thought  safe.  Our  first  atten- 
tion was  directed  to  the  boats.  We  hauled 
them  up  from  the  surf,  and  gave  Capt.  Riley  all 
the  assistance  we  possibly  could  in  gathering 
together  the  small  amount  of  provisions  and 
clothing  which  lay  strewed  along.  This  being 
done,  our  captain  opened  his  trunk  in  which 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  2& 

were  two  bags  of  specie  of  $1000  each.  He 
told  us  all  to  take  as  much  of  it  as  we  could  con- 
ceal about  our  persons.  I  declined  taking  any 
part  of  it,  as  I  had  already  more  of  my  own  than 
[  could  thus  hide  from  the  eye  of  an  Arab.  It 
is  impossible  to  tell  what  would  have  been  our 
fate,  had  not  the  Arabs  discovered  that  we  had 
in  our  possession  the  precious  metals;  but  I  ve- 
rily believe  it  was  the  discovery  of  it  that  in- 
duced them  to  heighten  their  demands  for  our 
ransom,  and  increase  their  cruelty  to  our  per- 
sons. The  other  bag  was  buried  in  the  sand 
The  sun  was  now  rising  over  a  sand  hill  that 
stretched  along  a  short  distance  from  the  shore. 
Our  attention  was  now  attracted  to  the  appear- 
ance of  a  human  creature  at  the  distance  of 
nearly  half  a  mile  approaching  us ;  if  that  crea- 
ture can  be  called  human  whose  appearance  is 
nothing  but  a  slander  upon  our  species.  As  he 
discovered  the  wrecked  articles  and  our  wretch- 
ed group,  he  manifested,  by  his  actions,  the 
commotions  of  a  mind  agitated  by  the  mingled 
operations  of  joy  and  fear.  He  came  perhaps 
within  twenty  rods  of  us  ;  and  then,  by  signs, 
showed  an  intention  of  departing.  Capt.  Riley 
walked  gently  towards  him,  and  by  every  sign 
that  could  be  resorted  to,  endeavoured  to  per- 
suade him  to  come  and  take  possession  of  some 
portion  of  the  wrecked  articles.  After  inter- 
changing signs,  in  token  of  peace,  this  horrible 
figure,  that  defied  description,  left  us  to  our  re- 
flections upon  this  adventure.  We  were  then 
endeavoring,  with   oars   and  the   fragments  of 

broken  spars,  together  with  two  of  our  steering 

c 


26  ROBBING  JOURNAL. 

sails,  which  we  had  secured  from  the  wreck,  to 
erect  a  tent  and  secure  our  provisions  and  wa- 
ter ;  scarcely  thinking  of  any  thing  else,  from 
the  peculiar  perils  of  our  situation.     While  bu- 
sily engaged  in  this  service,  the  figure  before 
mentioned  re-appeared;  being  joined  by  two 
aged  females  of  the  most  frightful  aspect,  a  boy. 
and  two  small  girls,  whom  we  supposed  to  be 
their  children.      More   terrible  visages   never 
presented  themselves  to  the  astonished  eyes  and 
the  agitated  hearts  of  men.     The  gnashing  teeth 
and  opened  mouth  of  the  old  man,  stretching  al- 
most from  ear  to  ear— his  longgrev  beard  hang- 
ing on  his  breast — his  head  covered  with  long 
bushy  hair,  standing  in  every  direction — the  red 
and  flashing  eyes  of  the  old  women,  their  tushes 
projecting  from  their  jaws — and  the  more  mild, 
though  terrible  appearance  of  their  ferocious 
brood,  imparted  feelings  to  us,  better  imagined 
than  described.     Although  the  old  man,  on  his 
first  appearance,  showed  evidence  of  fear,  it  was 
now  changed  to  insolence.     He  broke  open  the 
chests,  and  plundered  the  clothing ;    and,  ap- 
proaching our  tent,  was  about  to  wrest  from  us 
our  provisions  and  water.     We  resolved  that 
death  should  be  his  immediate  portion,  and  that 
of  his  clan,  if  he  attempted  this  ;    indeed,  had  i< 
not  been  for  the  almost  certain  knowledge  that 
the  sand  hill  concealed  a  numerous  horde  like 
his,  they  would  soon  have  been  deprived  of  the 
power  of  plundering  us  at  all.     They  departed 
with  their  plunder,  and  left  our  wretched  party 
either  to  despair,  or  to  take  measures  for  our 
future  escape  or  safety.     Capt.  Riley  proposed 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.         •  27 

to  attempt  a  repair  of  the  long  boat.  Mr.  Sa- 
vage, Porter,  Horace,  and  I,  assisted  him  in  do- 
ing this  in  the  best  manner  we  could.  The  rest 
of  our  shipmates,  from  tha>  despair  which  pro- 
duces desperation,  had  deprived  themselves  of 
the  power  of  joining  us  in  this  necessary  duty, 
by  too  freely  using  the  wine  within  their  reach. 
Some  of  these  natives  had  furnished  us  with  some 
fire,  with  which  we  cooked  some  salted  pork,  by 
fuel  procured  from  the  beach.  This,  with  some 
bread  and  butter,  furnished  us  with  the  last 
meal  we  were  to  enjoy  from  the  provisions  yet 
saved  from  the  wreck.  The  old  man  with  his 
hideous  followers  had  retired — -the  night  came 
on — and  although,  on  one  side  the  ocean  was 
dashing  her  surging  billows  upon  the  rocks  we 
had  just  escaped,  ^and  on  the  other  we  were  en- 
vironed by  the  sand  hill  concealing  probably  a 
horde  of  wretches  preparing  on  the  approaching 
morning  to  recommence  the  work  of  plunder, 
and  perhaps  become  our  executioners,  I  sunic 
down,  with  my  shipmates,  excepting  a  watch, 
into  a  profound  and  refreshing  sleep  upon  the 
sand  under  our  tent. 

The  next  morning,  the  sun  rose  more  gloomily 
to  us  than  it  did  to  .Sterne's  sick  Lieutenant. 
He  was  sinking  into  the  arms  of  death,  among 
his  anxious  friends ; — we  were  in  momentary 
danger  of  being  devoured  by  demons,  whose  di- 
abolical ferocity  would  have  added  a  laurel  to 
the  escutcheon  of  Satan  himself.  The  old  man 
once  more  made  his  appearance  with  additional 
reinforcements.  The  women  commenced  a  yell, 
that  reminded  me  of  the  description  of  the  wail- 


28  KOBBINS'  JOURNAL 

ing  of  the  damned  spirits.  He  ordered  us  to 
the  wreck,  pointing  to  a  drove  of  camels  de- 
scending a  hill  to  the  eastward.  He  ap- 
proached our  tent  with  an  iron  spear,  and  com- 
menced an  assault.  We  all  fled  to  the  small 
boat,  while  Capt.  Riley  defended  himself  with 
7i  piece  of  a  spar  with  the  most  consummate 
coolness.  Our  little  boat  immediately  filled — 
bilged — and  we  re-landed,  and  drove  the  old 
Arab  some  distance  up  the  beach.  The  camels, 
with  their  armed  riders,  were  pressing  upon  us. 
We  flew  to  the  long  boat — turned  her  over,  and 
committing  ourselves  to  the  waves,  we  all  reach- 
ed the  wreck,  and  viewed  these  banditti,  armed 
with  spears  and  scimitars,  showing  us  the  tokens 
of  defiance,  and  carrying  off' or  destroying  all 
they  found  upon  the  shore.  Immediately  upon 
getting  aboard,  we  sought  through  the  wreck  to 
get  what  provisions  we  could.  We  found  a  few 
pieces  of  pork  and  a  few  bottles  of  wine,  but  no 
water.  These  we  let  down  into  the  boat,  which 
was  in  a  leaky  condition,  requiring  two  men  to 
bail  her.  Porter  and  I  got  a  fore-top-mast-stay- 
sail, and  put  it  into  the  boat.  We  could  find  no 
oars;  and  as  a  substitute,  we  split  two  plank* 
which  we  found  floating  iii  the  hold.  These  we 
also  put  into  the  boat.  We  all  let  ourselves 
down  into  the  boat,  and  attempted  to  put  to  sea. 
The  surf  nearly  filled  our  boat,  and  drove  us 
back  to  the  wreck  which  we  regained.  The 
Arabs  afterwards  returned,  unarmed,  and  by 
manifesting  every  appearance  of  peace,  and  of- 
fering Capt.  Riley  a  goat  skin,  which  will  here- 
After  be  described,  filled   with  water,  induced 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  29 

him  to  go  ashore.     The  old  man  came  aboard, 
and  after  seeking  for  fire-arms  and  money,  in 
vain,  he  went  ashore.     We  then  witnessed  the 
danger  of  Capt.  Riley — he  was  seized  by  two  of 
the  clan,  and  we  expected  to  be  sad  spectators 
of  his  death.     We  sent  all  the  money  we  had  on 
bosrd  in  a  bucket,  to  the  shore,  hoping  to  ap- 
pease the  vengeance  of  these  merciless  wretch- 
es.   We  were  disappointed.    The  danger  of  our 
captain  increased.     He  hailed  us.     Mr.  Savage 
once  more  descended  on  the  hawser,  and  was 
approaching  the  beach,  and  was  discovered  by 
the  captain,  who  intreated  him  by  signs  to  re- 
turn, and  send  Antonio  ashore.     He  did  so ;  but 
as  Antonio  carried  no  money,  the  vengeance  of 
the  Arabs  apparently  arose  to  the  highest  pitch. 
Capt.  Riley  made  his  escape  to  the  wreck,  fol- 
lowed by  two  natives,  and  Antonio  was  seized, 
loaded  with  plunder,  and  forced  over  the  sand  hill. 
Since  I  have  returned  to  America,  I  have  read 
a  small  part  of  Capt  Riley's  narrative.     I  find 
that  Capt.  Riley  expressed  his  regret  at  the  death 
of  Antonio,  fearing  that  he  was  the  cause  of  it. 
He  may  dismiss  his  regret  upon  this  subject,  as 
I,  with  many  of  my  shipmates,  are  positive  that 
he  was  not  assassinated,  as  our  captain  states. 
We  distinctly  saw  the  Arabs  load  his  back  with 
plunder,  and  force  him  to  carry  it  over  the  sand 
hill.      Afterwards,  while  at  sea  in  our  boat,  it 
was  a  subject  of  conversation  amongst  us,  that 
if  we  were  all  lost,  as  then  seemed  inevitable, 
Antonio  would  be  the  only  survivor  to  relate  our 
disaster,  to  our  anxious  friends,  should  he  ever 
return  to  his  native  country. 

C2 


30  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 


CHAP.  III.  ! 

A  consullavon — measures  adopted  to  clear  the  surf- — we  put  to 
sea  in  the  long  boat — alarms  and  distresses — stood  out  fou§ 
days — stood  in  three  days,  and  landed  on  the  5th  Sept.  1815' 
to  the  north  of  Cape  Barbas,  western  coast  of  Africa. 

WE  were  now  all  on  board  the  wreck,  except- 
ing poor  Antonio,  whose  fate  was  mentioned  at 
the  close  of  the  last  chapter.  A  melancholy 
consultation  was  held  by  the  captain  and  crew. 
Whether  to  go  ashore  and  fall  sudden  victims  to 
the  Arabs,  or  drag  out  a  miserable  existence  of 
slavery  among  them — or  to  entrust  ourselves  to 
the  foaming  billows,  with  our  shattered  boat, 
was  a  question,  upon  the  decision  of  which  hung, 
perhaps,*  "  our  life,  our  death — our  bane,  oar  anti- 
dote.'''' After  long  deliberation,  we  concluded 
once  more  to  attempt  our  escape  by  sea.  The 
weather  had  been  moderating  through  the  day — 
the  wind  a.  little  shifted  to  the  eastward,  and  the 
surf  had,  in  a  degree,  subsided.  To  make  our 
attempt  with  greater  security,  we  rigged  a  spar 
over  the  stern  of  the  wreck,  making  fast  a  rope 
to  its  outer  end,  to  force  the  boat  through  the 
surf,  and  give  her  a  good  head-way.  We  then 
put  aboard  every  thing  we  had  received  from 
the  wreck  to  begin  our  perilous  voyage,  which 
the  boat  could  contain,  in  her  leaky  condition. 
These  consisted  of  a  few  pieces  of  salt  pork — a 
live  pig — which  we  took  from  the  wreck  to  the 
shore — and  which,  wonderful  to  relate,  had  vo- 
luntarily swum  from  the  shore  to  the  wreck— 


R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL.  31 

about  four  gallons  of  water,  a  few  pounds  of  figs, 
soaked  in  salt  water,  and  about  a  dozen  bottles 
of  wine.  We  likewise  had  aboard  our  small 
boat's  sails,  consisting  of  jib  and  main-sail,  and 
die  fore-top-mast-stay-sail  of  the  brig,  and  the 
splitted  planks, before  mentioned,  which  were  to 
serve  us  for  oars. 

We  now  descended  into  the  boat,  out  of  which 
Porter  waded  to  the  shore,  and  brought  aboard 
an  oar  which  he  found  laying  on  the  beach.  Oi 
his  own  accord,  he  went  again  on  shore  and 
brought  aboard  about  four  or  five  hundred  dol 
lars  which  had  before  been  buried.  We  now 
fixed  ourselves  at  the  oars,  and  at  the  rope  bend- 
ed from  the  spar  provided  as  before  mentioned. 
Capt.  Riley  placed  himself  at  the  stern  of  the 
boat  to  steer  her  with  a  plank,  she  having  no 
rudder.  We  then,  by  an  united  effort,  forced 
ourselves  through  the  surf  without  difficulty,  and 
passed  off* into  a  smooth  sea;  This  was  accom- 
plished at  nearly  sun-set.  Capt.  Riley  returned 
thanks  to  Heaven,  in  v  ich  we  all  joined  with 
uncovered  heads,  and,  1  trust,  with  sincere 
hearts,  for  our  safe  escape  from  the  shore  and 
JVom  the  surf.  Darkness  now  approached  ;  and 
cape  Bajador  being  under  our  lee,  the  wind  be- 
ing partly  ahead,  we  were  under  the  most  fear- 
ful apprehension  lest  we  could  not  clear  the 
cape.  We  spent  the  whole  night  in  rowing  and 
bailing,  until  our  strength  and  fortitude  were  al- 
most exhausted.  At  day-light,  however,  we  were 
greatly  rejoiced  to  find  ourselves  to  the  leeward 
of  this  fatal  cape.  It  was  like  the  transition  from 
expected  destruction  to  hoped-for  safety. 


32  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  August,  we  ran 
moderately  down  the  coast  to  the  S.  W. ;  during 
which  time  we  were  in  consultation  upon  the 
question,  whether  we  should  run  down  to  the 
Senegal  river,  upon  which  there  is  an  European 
settlement  near  its  mouth,  or  stand  off,  and  en- 
deavour to  make  some  of  the  Canary  Islands. 
The  objections  to  going  to  the  first  mentioned 
place  were,  that  we  had  no  quadrant,  no  com- 
pass, and  no  chart  of  the  coast.  A  further  ob- 
jection was,  that  if,  in  the  night  season,  we  should 
pass  the  Senegal  and  Cape  Verd,  without  dis- 
covering either,  we  should  then  be  in  the  open 
sea  without  any  hopes.  On  the  other  hand,  it 
was  said,  if  we  should  stand  of£  and  attempt  to 
make  some  of  the  Canaries,  we  should,  with 
more  likelihood,  fall  in  with  some  European  ves- 
sels. We  concluded  to  alter  our  course,  and 
stand  off  for  the  Canaries.  We  this  day  put 
ourselves  upon  allowance,  viz. — one  bottle  of 
water  and  h  ilf  a  bottle  of  wine  amongst  eleven 
of  us,  this  being  the  whole  crew.  We  also  al 
lowanced  ourselves  to  two  figs  each  ;  the  pork 
not  being  particularly  allowanced.  We  endea- 
voured to  secure  the  boat  from  the  breaking  in 
of  the  sea,  by  fitting  around  her  gunwale,  waste- 
clothes  about  eight  inches  above  it,  composed  of 
a  part  of  the  fore-stay- sail.  We  had  a  fresh 
breeze  from  N.  E.  during  the  day,  and  kept  her 
close  upon  the  wind ;  but  made  but  little  head- 
way, our  sails  being  small,  and  a  considerable 
sea  running,  which  drifted  us  fast  to  the  lee- 
ward. 

On  the  31st  of  August  the  weather  moderated 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  3'S 

We  were  in  no  immediate  danger  from  the  sea. 
notwithstanding  our  boat  was  in  a  most  shatter- 
ed condition,  and  we  continued  to  stand  out. 
Our  pig,  for  the  want  of  necessary  sustenance, 
began  to  grow  thin,  and  we  concluded  to  kill 
him,  while  he  was  yet  in  an  eatable  state.  His 
blood  we  carefully  preserved  to  quench  our 
thirst.  His  intestines  we  devoured  for  the  same 
purpose.  It  was  the  painful  sensations  of  thirst 
that  we  most  dreaded ;  and  to  guard  against  it. 
we  began  to  preserve  our  own  urine,  securing  it 
in  the  bottles  we  had  before  emptied  of  their 
contents.  As  the  night  came  on,  it  threatened 
darkness,  and  squally  weather.  The  wind  blew 
strong  from  the  N.  E.  and  by  midnight  the  sea 
ran  so  high  as  nearly  to  fill  the  boat.  We  en- 
deavored, with  every  instrument  in  our  posses- 
sion, to  bail  her ;  our  buckets,  our  hats,  and  ev- 
ery thing  that  would  hold  water,  were  used  for 
this  purpose  ;  and  although  we  all  expected  that 
every  returning  surge  would  send  us  to  the  bot- 
tom, we  succeeded  in  keeping  our  boat  alive  un- 
til morning.  No  one  can  judge  of  our  peril  ex- 
cepting those  who  have  experienced  something 
similar.  The  rocking  of  the  boat  had  drawn 
most  of  her  nails.  We  saw  nothing  of  the  dis- 
mal gloom  that  surrounded  us,  excepting  what 
was  presented  to  our  affrightened  view  by  the 
vivid  lightning  which  kept  constantly  flashing. 
We  could  derive  hope  from  no  source  but  from 
the  interposition  of  an  over-ruling  God,  whose 
voice  we  hear  in  the  thunder,  and  whose  arrows 
we  see  in  the  lightning,  and  even  this  was  de- 
spaired of.    Capt.  Riley  and  Mr.  Savage  alter 


34  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

nately  prayed  with  us,  which  had  considerable 
effect  in  allaying  our  fears,  and  encouraging  our 
dying  hopes. 

Day-light  at  length  appeared,  on  the  morning 
of  the  1st  September.  No  painter  could  ade- 
quately have  described  the  appearance  of  this 
gloomy  group  of  human  beings.  Despair  was 
depicted  upon  every  countenance,  and  fortitude 
deserted  every  heart.  We  supposed  we  were 
about  to  lose  our  last  hold  upon  life,  so  dear  to 
us  all ;  and  as  our  fate  seemed  remediless,  we 
submitted  to  its  decrees  in  silent  horror.  Soon 
after,  however,  the  weather  moderated  consi- 
derably, and  the  wind  hauled  about  to  N.  N.  W. 
We  continued  to  stand  off;  but  we  relinquished 
ali  hopes  of  fetching  any  of  the  Canaries,  and 
our  only  remaining  hope  was  of  falling  in  with 
some  sail  that  might  be  running  down  near  where 
we  were  situated.  Our  thirst  increased  to  a  de- 
gree almost  intolerable,  and  the  scorching  rays 
of  the  sun,  being  within  the  torrid  zone,  were 
nearly  insupportable.  We  relieved  our  parch- 
ed and  thirsty  frames  a  little,  by  making  use  oi 
a  few  drops  of  wine  and  water,  and  the  urine 
we  had  preserved. 

On  the  2d,  we  continued  to  stand  out  for  a 
considerable  part  of  the  day.  Capt.  Riley,  with 
all  the  rest  of  us,  gave  up  all  hopes  of  descrying 
a  sail ;  our  provisions  and  water  were  growing 
short ;  our  strength  began  to  fail  with  our  hopes, 
and  by  an  unanimous  voice,  we  concluded  to 
stand  in  for  the  shore  ;  lest,  by  getting  farther 
out  at  sea,  we  should  be  wholly  unable,  from 
<he  state  of  the  boat,  our  provisions,  and  our 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  35 

strength,  to  stand  the  sea  or  reach  any  shore 
whatever.  We  then,  towards  evening,  put  her 
head  towards  the  coast,  which  we  had  left,  and 
judging  by  the  sun,  began  to  steer  a  S.  E.  course. 

On  the  3d  of  September,  standing  in,  we  were 
favoured  with  a  fair  wind,  nothing  very  material 
occurring.  Dismal  as  the  prospect  before  us 
appeared,  horrid  as  the  recollection  of  the  coast 
we  had  left  was  to  our  minds,  we  still  felt  a  kind 
of  desperate  satisfaction  in  returning  to  it.  Des- 
perate, indeed,  was  the  choice,  as  I  trust  my  rea- 
ders will  find  in  the  sequel  of  this  Journal. 

During  the  4th,  standing  in,  we  were  on  the 
constant  look-out  for  land,  and  feeling  the  deep- 
est anxiety  to  discover  it.  The  day  passed  off, 
and  we  beheld  nothing  but  the  surrounding 
ocean,  expecting  every  hour  to  be  swallowed  up 
by  it.  We  subsisted,  as  we  before  had  done, 
without  any  water  excepting  a  little  urine  to  wet 
our  parched  lips,  and  stiffened  tongues.  In  the 
night  season,  we  obtained  a  little  rest  during  the 
short  intervals  afforded  us  from  the  duty  of  row- 
ing and  bailing  the  boat. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th,  we  discovered  land 
at  a  great  distance  to  leeward.  Why  we  should 
have  rejoiced  at  beholding  a  coast  from  which 
we  had  so  recently  escaped  with  our  bare  lives, 
is  difficult  to  determine.  But,  in  the  elegant 
language  of  the  Poet — "  JVhen  grief  overpowers 
us,  a  twine  may  lead  us."  The  current  drove  us 
rapidly  towards  the  shore.  As  we  approached 
it,  we  found  it  bounded  by  perpendicular  rocks, 
rising  in  majestic  and  destructive  grandeur. 
We  could  discover  no  aperture,  through  which 


36  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

we  might  pass  for  some  time.  At  length  we  saw 
something  that  had  the  appearance  of  a  sand 
bank.  We  made  for  it  with  all  our  little  strength; 
and,  exerting  ourselves  with  our  oars,  and  rising 
upon  a  wave  that  elevated  us  mountain  high, 
we  were  carried  on  to  a  beach  of  sand  of  very 
small  extent.  As  the  wave  retired  we  surveyed, 
in  silent  astonishment,  the  yawning  grave  of 
rocks  we  had  just  escaped.  They  looked  like 
the  jaws  of  a  natural  sepulchre,  and  we  consi-* 
dered  ourselves  as  rescued  by  Almighty  power 
from  the  grave  they  seemed  to  have  formed  to 
receive  our  emaciated  bodies.  Thus,  after  se- 
ven days  perilous  navigation,  in  our  frail  boat, 
four  days  standing  out  and  three  standing  in,  we 
landed.  Having  stated  that  we  were  in  the  boa( 
seven  days,  I  must  add,  that  this  is  according  to 
my  best  recollection.  During  the  time  we  were 
out,  we  little  thought  of  reckoning  days,  when 
we  all  the  while  thought  our  last  day  had  come; 
and  it  is  from  the  most  mature  reflection  that  I 
have  fixed  it  at  the  number  of  days  mentioned. 
It  would  not  be  singular,  after  all,  if  a  mistake, 
in  this  respect,  should  be  made. 

The  place,  where  we  thus  landed,  was  to  the 
northward  of  cape  Barbas  ;  and  between  that 
cape  and  the  river  St.  Cyprian,  being  at  this  time 
entirely  dry ;  the  coast  running  from  E.  N.  E.  to 
W.  S.  W.  While  Capt.  Riley  and  Mr.  Savage 
were  seeking  a  passage  to  the  land  above  the 
rocks,  we  made  all  the  preparation  we  could  for 
a  night's  repose,  after  having  exerted  all  the  re- 
maining strength  we  had  in  digging  for  water  in 
the  sand,  without  finding  it.      They  returned  ,- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL  37 

and  after  partaking  with  us  of  a  little  refresh- 
ment, we  committed  our  bodies  to  our  bed  of 
sand,  and  enjoyed  undisturbed  repose  until 
morning.  We  then  opened  our  eyes,  and  found 
ourselves  again  upon  the  land  of  barbarians!! 

I  had  been  taught  in  early  life  to  believe  in 
the  doctrine  of  an  overruling  Providence  ;  that 
the  destiny  of  men  is  in  His  hands,  and  that,  "  it 
is  not  in  man  that  walketh  to  direct  his  own  steps" 
I  was  most  sensibly  convinced  of  the  truth  of 
these  positions  at  this  time.  Although  one  mis- 
fortune had  trod  close  upon  the  heel  of  another, 
for  some  years  previous,  until  after  a  great  va- 
riety of  calamities  I  was  now  reduced  to  one 
which  must  be  the  greatest,  excepting  death,  we 
can  endure  on  earth,  and  which  no  possible 
change  but  that  could  make  worse,  I  still  felt  the 
most  perfect  submission.  Whether  it  arose  from 
Christian  humility,  or  from  that  kind  of  apathy, 
from  long  misfortune,  which  brings  the  minds  of 
men  to  feel  a  contempt  for  even  fate  itself,  I  can- 
not certainly  tell ;  but  this  I  can  assuredly  say, 
I  felt  not  the  least  disposition  to  murmur  or  re- 
pine at  my  fate,  however  awful  it  was,  or  might 
become. 

D 


38  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 


CHAP.  IV. 

Brief  historical  sketch  of  the  discoveries  upon  the  African  conti- 
nent— origin  of  present  European  nations,  and  African  tribes 
— Canary  Islands — Cape  Bajador — Porto  Santo — Madeira — 
Cape  Verd — Cape  of  Good  Hope — De  Gama — Columbus — 
East-Indies — America — Coast  of  Africa — Interior  of  Africa. 

THE  readers  of  this  Journal  found  the  author 
of  it,  at  the  end  of  the  last  chapter,  cast  a  second 
time,  with  his  shipmates  in  misfortune,  upon  the 
western  coast  of  Africa,  and  upon  that  part  of  it 
where  the  wandering  Arabs  inhabit.  He  wishes 
to  relieve  himself,  and  his  readers,  from  the  con- 
tinued detail  of  human  misery ;  and  thinks  he 
cannot  do  it  better  than  by  giving,  very  briefly, 
what  scanty  historical  and  geographical  infor- 
mation he  can  collect  concerning  this  quarter  of 
the  globe. 

Although  Africa  holds  the  third  rank  in  point 
of  size  among  the  four  great  continents  that  con- 
stitute our  globe,  in  a  moral,  political,  and  com- 
mercial point  of  view,  it  is  decidedly  inferior  to 
them  all.  While  the  continents  of  Europe  and 
America  have  been  making  rapid  progress  in 
civilization,  the  arts  and  sciences,  Asia  may  be 
said  to  have  been,  for  the  most  part,  stationary, 
and  Africa  retrograding.  While  the  arts  that 
conduce  to  the  comfort  of  man,  and  the  sciences 
that  expand  and  elevate  his  mind,  have,  in  the 
former,  been  advanced  almost  to  perfection ;  in 
many  parts  of  the  latter,  the  same  degree  of  bar- 
barism prevails  now,  as  prevailed  at  the  birth 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  39 

oi"  our  Saviour.  Indeed,  for  a  considerable  time 
before  the  Christian  aera,  the  Persians,  Medes, 
and  Romans,  had  large  and  beautiful  settlements 
upon  the  Niger,  and  in  different  parts  of  the 
African  continent.  But  upon  the  subversion  of 
the  Roman  empire,  in  the  fifth  century,  when 
the  northern  hive  broke  loose,  and  was  precipi- 
tated upon  Europe,  the  Goths,  Vandals,  Franks, 
Ostrogoths,  Visigoths,  and  other  barbarous  tribes, 
made  a  war  of  extermination  against  civilized 
man,  and  of  destruction  against  all  the  produc- 
tions of  the  arts  and  sciences.  The  Vandals, 
always  taking  the  lead  in  barbarity,  passed  from 
Spain  into  Africa,  converted  some  of  the  most 
populous  places  in  this  continent  to  a  barren 
wilderness,  held  uncontrolled  dominion  in  all 
the  north  part  of  this  continent  for  more  than  a 
century  and  were  at  last  compelled  to  surren- 
der a  country  which  they  had  thus  ruined,  to  the 
Mahometan  Arabs,  or  Moors,  who  now,  under 
different  names,  form  the  principal  part  of  its 
population. 

This  immense  continent,  which  has  so  long 
been  the  theatre  of  suffering  humanity,  is  bound- 
ed north  by  the  Mediterranean  sea,  having  Eu- 
rope on  the  north  ;  west  by  the  Atlantic  ocean, 
having  America  on  the  west ;  south,  by  the 
southern  ocean  ;  east,  by  the  Indian  ocean,  the 
Red  sea,  and  part  of  Asia,  to  which  it  is  united 
by  the  Isthmus  of  Suez,  about  sixty  miles  in 
breadth.  This  immense  peninsula  in  shape  re- 
sembles a  triangle  ;  its  east  and  west  sides  be- 
ing very  irregular.  From  Cape  Bona,  on  the 
Mediterranean,  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  on 


10  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL, 

the  southern  ocean,  it  comprehends  seventy  de- 
grees of  latitude,  or  about  4875  miles  ;  and  from 
Cape  Verd  17°  33'  W.  long,  to  Cape  Guardafui, 
51°  2&  E.  long,  it  is  something  more  than  4790 
miles. 

It  is  within  the  knowledge  of  every  historian, 
that  the  present  nations  of  Europe  owe  their 
origin  to  some  one  of  the  barbarous  nations  who 
overturned  the  Roman  empire,  about  the  middle 
of  the  fifth  century.  Breaking  forth  in  myriads 
from  the  frozen  regions  of  Scandinavia,  where 
they  had  become  inured  to  every  hardship  and 
privation,  and  pouring  their  countless  legions 
upon  the  fertile,  highly  cultivated  and  delight- 
ful countries,  bordering  upon  the  Mediterranean, 
they  lost  the  ardor  of  conquest,  and  the  thirst 
for  discoveries.  The  Ostrogoths  and  Visigoths, 
took  to  themselves  the  beautiful  regions  of  Italy 
and  Naples.  The  Gauls  and  Franks  possessed 
themselves  of  France.  The  Moors,  who  came 
from  the  east,  established  themselves  in  Spain 
and  Portugal.  The  Saxons  overran  the  exten- 
sive German  empire,  including  Prussia  and  Po- 
land. This,  the  most  brave,  magnanimous  and 
warlike  of  the  northern  clans,  afterwards  passed 
over  to  England.  From  them  Americans  may 
trace  their  origin.  They  continue  to  be  brave 
and  magnanimous,  and,  when  necessary,  can  be 
warlike. 

Although  many  of  these  tribes  inhabited  coun- 
tries but  a  short  distance  from  the  continent  of 
Africa,  yet  so  completely  had  they  destroyed 
every  vestige  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  with 
them  so   effectually  checked   the  progressing 


K0BB1NS'  JOURNAL  41 

knowledge  of  navigation,  commencing  the  pe- 
riod which  has  been  denominated  the  "  dark 
i*ges,"  that  this  continent  for  a  long  period  of 
time,  remained  to  them,  and  to  the  rest  of  the 
world,  almost  unknown.  At  length  the  mari- 
ner's compass  was  invented;  and  about  the  mid- 
dle of  the  fourteenth  century,  (1344)  the  Canary 
islands,  near  the  western  coast  of  Africa  were 
discovered,  and,  by  the  Pope,  erected  into  a 
kingdom,  and  bestowed  upon  a  royal  Castilian. 
The  ardor  for  penetrating  unexplored  regions 
revived  ;  and  the  fifteenth  century  may  be  call- 
ed  the  age  of  discovery.  The  Portuguese  led 
the  van  in  the  path  of  navigating  glory.  An  ar- 
mament was  fitted  out  by  John  I.  of  Portugal  to 
attack  the  Moors,  who  had  possessed  themselves 
of  the  Barbary  coast  in  Africa.  The  vessels 
that  were  sent  forward  to  explore,  proceeded  as 
far  as  Cape  Bajador,  the  dreadful  place  where 
Capt.  Riley  and  his  crewr  met  their  fate.  This 
was  160  miles  beyond  the  voyages  of  former 
navigators.  The  dreadful  breakers,  dashing 
upon  the  impending  cliffs  near  that  Cape,  de- 
terred them  from  approaching  the  coast,  and 
they  returned.  Henry,  son  of  John  I.  soon  after 
fitted  out  a  vessel,  and  entrusted  the  command 
to  two  gentlemen  of  his  own  household.  Timi- 
dity made  them  merely  coasters  ;  but  a  gale  of 
wind  drove  them  out  to  sea,  and  they  acciden- 
tally discovered  Porto  Saato.  The  next  year, 
he  sent  out  three  vessels  to  take  possession  of 
that  island,  and  from  that  they  discovered  a 
fixed  spot  in  the  horizon  ;  and  upon  approach- 
ing it,  thev  found  it  to  be  the  island  of  Madeira, 

D2 


42  ROBB1NS'  JOURNAL. 

so  well  known  to  our  countrymen.  Soon  after. 
the  dreaded  Cape  Bajador  was  doubled  ;  and 
in  a  few  years  after  they  discovered  the  river 
Senegal,  and  the  coast  from  Cape  Blanco  to 
Cape  Verd,  and,  in  1446,  the  Cape  de  Verd 
islands.  The  equinoctial  line  was  soon  after 
passed ;  and  Benin,  Congo  and  Guinea,  were 
discovered  in  succession.  The  Portuguese  mo- 
narch, animated  to  enthusiasm  by  this  success, 
and  thinking  there  must  be  a  southern  termina- 
tion to  the  African  continent,  despatched  Bar- 
tholomey  Diaz  to  find  it.  He  accomplished  the 
object ;  but  dared  not  approach  the  threatening 
promontory,  which  he  named  Cabo  Tormentoso. 
or  Stormy  Cape.  But  the  king,  knowing  that 
he  had  found  a  passage  to  India,  gave  it  the 
name  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Towards  the 
close  of  this  century,  (15th)  he  despatched  a 
nobleman  by  the  name  of  Vasquez  de  Gama,  to 
double  this  Cape,  and  if  possible  proceed  to  In- 
dia. He  accomplished  this  great  object,  and 
landed  in  India  the  22d  of  May,  1498,  and  re- 
turned to  Lisbon  the  14th  of  September,  1499, 
about  seven  years  after  Columbus  had  disco- 
vered the  continent  of  America. 

The  coast  of  Africa  had  now  been  thoroughly 
explored,  while  the  interior  was  known  only  by 
the  barbarians  who  inhabited  it ;  to  the  geo- 
grapher, it  was  nothing  but  a  vastly  extended 
blank ;  and  it  remained  so  until  near  the  close 
of  the  18th  century.  The  reason  for  this  may 
probably  be  found  in  the  fact  that  all  the  great 
enterprises,  set  on  foot  for  the  discovery  of  un- 
known regions,  have  generally  proceeded  from 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  43 

a  desire  to  accumulate  wealth,  or  augment  pow- 
er ;  and  the  accumulation  of  the  one  is  general- 
ly an  augmentation  of  the  other.  The  unpro- 
misingappearance  of  the  coast  of  Africa  afforded 
but  little  encouragement  to  the  ambition  of  mo- 
narchs,  or  the  cupidity  of  merchants.  To  this 
it  may  be  added,  that  De  Gama,  by  discovering 
a  passage  to  India  round  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  had  unfolded  to  European  merchants  the 
inexhaustible  stores  of  wealth  embosomed  in 
that  quarter  of  the  globe.  Columbus  at  the 
same  time  discovered  a  New  World.  The  mines 
of  Potosi  and  Peru  were  beginning  to  pour  forth 
their  rich  contents  into  the  coffers  of  European 
monarchs,  and  to  stimulate  the  avarice  of  Euro- 
pean merchants.  To  these,  as  the  leading  causes, 
may  probably  be  imputed  the  ignorance  in  which 
the  world  remains  of  the  interior  of  the  conti- 
nent of  Africa  to  this  day. 

We  have,  to  be  sure,  a  few  books  of  travels  in 
this  continent.  But  they  are  the  productions  of 
individuals,  whose  romantic  desire  to  obtain  in- 
formation led  them  to  encounter  every  hazard, 
and  surmount  every  danger.  We  can  hardly 
expect  a  correct  delineation  of  a  country,  or  a 
description  of  its  inhabitants,  institutions,  man- 
ners, and  customs,  by  a  solitary  wanderer,  who 
is  every  moment  in  danger  of  death.  Surely, 
that  head  is  poorly  calculated  to  treasure  up 
facts  and  detail  them  to  the  world,  which  is  lia- 
ble every  hour  to  be  taken  from  the  shoulders. 
The  travels  of  Vaillant,  of  Norden,  and  of  Bruce, 
and  what  little  of  Park's  is  published,  have  been 
carefully  examined  by  the  writer  of  this  Journal, 


44  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

with  a  view  of  enriching  it  with  interesting  ex- 
tracts therefrom.  But  the  design  is  relinquish- 
ed, as  they  give  us  no  information  concerning 
the  wandering  Arabs,  or  of  the  immense  desert 
of  Zahara  which  comprehends  a  great  propor- 
tion of  the  interior  of  North  Africa.  It  may  here 
be  remarked,  that  we  can  expect  correct  infor- 
mation of  this  desert  and  of  the  Arabs,  from  none 
but  European  or  American  slaves.  The  travel- 
ler, who  is  in  pursuit  of  this  knowledge,  is  in 
hourly  danger  of  death  or  slavery.  The  slave 
is  safe  in  the  hands  of  his  master.  With  him  he 
traverses  the  desert ;  with  him  he  reposes  in  a 
tent.  Having  leisure,  he  can  record  in  safety 
the  peculiarities  of  this  peculiar  people.  If  he 
becomes  a  slave  to  a  settled  resident  in  some  of 
the  towns,  he  can  describe  that,  and  the  cus- 
toms of  the  people.  The  author  of  this  Journal 
was  in  both  these  situations,  and  hopes  to  give 
a  correct  account  of  this  part  of  Africa,  or  that 
part  of  it  which  he  saw. 

But  I  cannot  omit  to  incorporate  into  this  work 
*ome  portion  of  the  doings  of  an  "  Association 
for  promoting  the  discovery  of  the  interior  parts  of 
Africa"  This  association  was  formed  in  Eng- 
land by  a  number  of  gentlemen  of  rank  and 
learning,  in  the  year  1788.  The  first  adven- 
turer that  entered  into  its  service,  and  proceed- 
ed upon  a  tour  of  discovery  in  Africa,  was  one 
of  our  own  countrymen  by  the  name  of  Led- 
yard. 

The  daring  enterprise  of  Americans  has  been 
known  to  the  world,  and  by  the  world  applaud- 
ed, ever  since  Englishmen  became  known  by 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  45 

that  name.  Although  the  Portuguese  first  be- 
gan the  business  of  discovery,  it  was  left  for 
Americans  and  Englishmen  to  complete  it ;  and 
from  what  they  have  already  accomplished,  it 
may  be  rationally  expected,  that  the  ardent  spi- 
rit of  discovery  will  not  subside  so  long  as  an 
ocean  or  sea  remains  untraversed,  or  any  por- 
tion of  the  earth  continues  unexplored.  Our 
countryman,  the  indefatigable  Ledyard,  had 
been  long  engaged  in  traversing  unknown  seas, 
and  exploring  unknown  countries,  without  the 
aid  of  governments,  or  the  assistance  of  private 
munificence.  He  became  known  to  this  asso- 
ciation, was  adopted  as  their  agent,  and  employ- 
ed to  accomplish  their  splendid  objects.  The 
readers  of  this  volume  will  be  better  gratified 
by  an  account  of  this  American,  from  the  doing* 
of  this  association,  than  from  the  imperfect  man- 
ner in  which  it  would  be  given  by  the  writer ; 
it  is,  therefore,  presented  in  their  own  lan- 
guage :— 

"  Scarcely  was  this  society  instituted,  when 
two  gentlemen  were  engaged  in  the  advance- 
ment of  these  schemes  of  discovery,  whose  ta- 
lents and  courage  eminently  qualified  them  for 
such  an  arduous  service.  One  of  them  named 
Ledyard,  by  birth  an  American,  feeling  from  his 
earliest  youth  an  irresistible  desire  to  explore 
those  regions  of  the  globe,  which  were  undisco- 
vered, or  imperfectly  known,  had  passed  seve- 
ral years  among  the  Indians  in  America,  study- 
ing their  manners  and  habits,  and  had  thus 
learned  how  to  recommend  himself  to  the  favor 
and  protection  of  savages.     He  had  accompa- 


46  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

nied  Capt.  Cook  in  his  voyage  round  the  world, 
descending  to  the  humble  situation  of  corporal 
of  marines,  rather  than  forego  an  opportunity  so 
inviting  to  his  inquisitive  and  adventurous  spi- 
rit. He  next  resolved  to  traverse  the  continent 
of  America,  from  the  north-west  coast  which 
Cook  had  partly  explored,  to  the  eastern  coast, 
with  which  he  himself  was  already  perfectly  fa- 
miliar. Disappointed  in  his  intention  of  sailing 
in  a  voyage  of  commercial  adventure  to  Nootka 
Sound,  he  crossed  the  British  Channel  to  Os- 
tend,  with  only  ten  guineas  in  his  purse ;  de- 
termined to  travel  over  land  to  Kamschatka, 
whence  the  passage  is  short  to  the  western 
coast  of  America.  When  he  came  to  the 
Gulf  of  Bothnia,  he  attempted  to  cross  it  on 
the  ice,  that  he  might  reach  Kamschatka  by  the 
shortest  way ;  but  finding  that  the  water  was 
not  frozen  in  the  middle,  he  returned  to  Stock- 
holm ;  travelled  northward  into  the  arctic  cir- 
cle; and  passing  round  the  head  of  the  gulf. 
descended  on  its  eastern  side  to  Petersburgh. 
There  his  extraordinary  appearance  attracted 
general  notice.  Wfthout  stockings  or  shoes,  and 
too  poor  to  provide  himself  with  either,  he  was 
invited  to  dine  with  the  Portuguese  Ambassa- 
dor, who  supplied  him  with  twenty  guineas  on 
the  credit  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  and  through  his 
interest  he  obtained  permission  to  accompany 
a  detachment  of  stores  which  was  to  be  sent  to 
Yakutz,  for  the  use  of  Mr.  Billings,  an  English- 
man, who  was  entrusted  with  the  schemes  of 
northern  discovery,  in  which  the  Empress  was 
(hen  engaged. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  17 

"  From  Yakutz,  which  is  situated  in  Siberia, 
bOOO  miles  east  of  Petersburgh,  he  proceeded 
Jo  Oczakow,  on  the  Kamschatkan  sea ;  but  as 
the  navigation  was  completely  obstructed  by  the 
ice,  he  returned  to  Yakutz,  intending  to  wait  for 
the  conclusion  of  the  winter.  Here,  in  conse- 
quence of  some  unaccountable  suspicion,  he  was 
seized  in  the  name  of  the  Empress  by  two  Rus- 
sian soldiers,  who  conveyed  him,  in  the  depth 
of  winter,  through  the  north  of  Tartary,  to  the 
frontier  of  the  Polish  dominions  ;  assuring  him 
at  their  departure,  that  if  he  returned  to  Russia 
he  should  certainly  be  hanged ;  but  if  he  chose 
to  return  to  England,  they  wished  him  a  plea- 
sant journey.  Poor,  forlorn,  and  friendless,  co- 
vered with  rags,  and  exhausted  by  hardships, 
disease,  and  misery,  he  proceeded  to  Konigs- 
burg,  where  the  interest  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks 
enabled  him  to  procure  the  sum  of  five  guineas, 
by  means  of  which  he  arrived  in  England.  He 
waited  immediately  on  Sir  Joseph,  who,  know- 
ing his  disposition,  informed  him  that  he  could 
recommend  him  to  an  adventure  as  perilous  as 
that  from  which  he  had  just  returned,  and  com- 
municated to  him  the  views  of  the  association 
for  discovering  the  inland  countries  of  Africa. 

"  Ledyard  entered  with  enthusiasm  into  an 
enterprise  which  he  had  already  projected  for 
himself;  and  receiving  from  Sir  Joseph  a  letter 
of  introduction  to  one  of  the  members  of  the 
committee  appointed  to  direct  the  business,  and 
promote  the  object  of  the  association,  he  went 
to  him  without  delay.  The  description  which 
that  gentleman  has  given  of  their  first  interview 


48  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

strongly  marks  the  character  of  this  hardy  tra- 
veller. "  Before  I  had  learned,"  says  he,  "  from 
the  note,  the  name  and  business  of  my  visiter,  1 
was  struck  with  the  manliness  of  his  person,  the 
breadth  of  his  chest,  the  openness  of  his  coun- 
tenance, and  the  inquietude  of  his  eye.  I  spread 
the  map  of  Africa  before  him,  and  tracing  a  line 
from  Cairo  to  Sennaar,  and  from  thence  west- 
ward in  the  latitude  and  supposed  direction  of 
the  Niger,  I  told  him  that  was  the  route  by 
which  I  was  anxious  that  Africa  might,  if  possi- 
ble, be  explored.  He  said  he  should  think  him- 
self singularly  fortunate  to  be  entrusted  with  the 
adventure.  I  asked  him  when  he  would  set  out? 
To-morrow  morning,  was  his  answer."  From 
such  zeal,  decision,  and  intrepidity,  the  society 
naturally  formed  the  most  sanguine  expecta- 
tions. 

"Mr.  Ledyard  sailed  from  London  on  the  30th 
of  June,  1788,  and  in  thirty-six  days,  seven  of 
which  were  spent  in  Paris  and  two  at  Marseilles, 
arrived  in  the  city  of  Alexandria ;  and  having 
there  assumed  the  dress,  and  been  instructed 
in  the  manners  requisite  for  an  Egyptian  travel- 
ler, proceeded  to  Cairo,  which  he  reached  on 
the  19th  day  of  August.  Ledyard  travelled  with 
peculiar  advantages.  Endowed  with  an  origi- 
nal and  comprehensive  genius,  he  beheld  with 
interest,  and  described  with  energy,  the  scenes 
and  objects  around  him;  and  by  comparing 
them  with  what  he  had  seen  in  other  regions  of 
the  globe,  he  was  enabled  to  give  his  narrative 
all  the  varied  effect  of  contrast  and  resemblance. 
His  remarks  on  lower  Egypt,  had  that  country 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  49 

been  less  generally  known,  might  have  ranked 
with  the  most  valuable  of  geographical  records, 
and  greatly  heightened  the  opinion  which  his 
employers  already  entertained  of  his  singular 
qualifications  for  the  task  which  he  had  under- 
taken. Nor  was  his  residence  in  Cairo  altojce- 
ther  useless  to  the  association.  By  visiting  the 
•<lave  markets,  and  by  conversing  with  the  Iclabs. 
or  travelling  merchants  of  the  caravans,  he  ob- 
tained, without  any  expense,  a  better  idea  of  the 
people  of  Africa,  of  its  trade,  of  the  position  of 
places,  the  nature  of  the  country,  and  the  man- 
ner of  travelling,  than  he  could,  by  any  other 
means,  have  acquired  :  and  the  communication? 
oji  these  subjects,  which  he  transmitted  to  Eng- 
land, interesting  and  instructing  as  they  were* 
atfbrded  the  society  the  most  gratifying  proofs 
of  the  ardent  spirit  of  inquiry,  the  unwearied  at- 
tention, the  persevering  research  and  the  labo- 
rious, indefatigable,  anxious  zeal  with  which 
their  author  pursued  the  object  of  their  mis 
sion." 

This  interesting  and  elegant  account  of  our 
wonderful  countryman  is  extracted  from  the 
*4  Proceedings  of  the  African  Association"  for  1790 
It  is  incorporated  into  this  volume  with  the  high 
est  pleasure,  as  it  is  an  encomium,  derived  from 
our  enemy,  in  favour  of  one  of  our  native  coun- 
trymen; from  an  enemy  too,  who  have  always 
used  the  small  arms  of  the  pen,  and  the  artillery 
o(  the  press,  to  diminish  American  genius — 
American  courage — and  American  greatness. 

This  indefatigable  association  continued  their 
laudable  exertions.      Mr.  Lucas  sailed  for  the 

E 


50  ROKBINS'  JOURNAL. 

African  continent  in  October,  the  same  year 
with  Ledyard.  In  1790,  Major  Houghton  was 
employed  in  the  same  enterprise.  In  1795,  the 
celebrated  Mungo  Park  began  to  explore  the 
continent  of  Africa.  Mr.  Hernemann,  a  Ger- 
man, followed  in  1797. 

We  might  extend  this  chapter  by  giving  short 
biographical  sketches  of  these  celebrated  ad- 
venturers,  but  we  now  return  to  our  Journal ; — 
intending,  in  a  future  part  of  it.  to  give  a  brief 
Geographical  view  of  Africa,  embracing  the  prin- 
cipal places  described  by  these  travellers,  and 
what  may  be  gathered  from  other  authentic 
sources. 


CHAP.  V. 

Passage  from  Cape  Barbas — mutualpledge — the  coast — crossiiig 
precipice — projecting  rock — watery  cavern — view  of  Zahara 
— sleeping  on  hill — prayer — capture  by  Arabs,  and  separa- 
tion. 

AFTER  having  given  our  readers  a  com- 
pressed historical  account  of  Africa,  derived 
from  the  most  authentic  sources,  we  now  return 
to  the  melancholy  Journal  of  individual  suffer- 
ings in  this  quarter  of  the  globe.  They  were 
enduredby  the  authorfor  about  nineteen  months, 
that  is  to  say,  from  the  5th  day  of  September, 
1815,  when  he  landed  from  the  boat  near  Cape 
Barbas,  until  the  8th  day  of  April.  1817, — when 
the  author  left  this  quarter  of  the  globe  to  return 
to  America,  that  quarter  of  it  in  which  he  had 
his  birth. 


KOI3B1NS1  JOURNAL.  i>l 

Alter  we  ran  our  boat  ashore,  as  mentioned, 
north  of  Cape  Barbas,  our  first  object  was  to  se- 
cure what  provisions  we  had  remaining.  It  had 
been  many  days  since  we  ate  bread  ;  the  wreck 
of  the  brig  having  ruined  the  whole,  excepting 
what  we  got  ashore  at  Cape  Bajador,  and  that 
was  soon  consumed.  Our  wine  was  also  ex- 
hausted, the  last  bottle  having  been  drank  just  be- 
fore we  made  our  landing  in  the  little  sand  beach 
among  the  rocks.  We  still  had  a  little  water, 
and  some  salt  pork  remaining ;  but  could  not 
transport  them,  together  with  our  clothing,  when 
ascending  and  descending  rocks,  whose  perpen- 
dicular position  and  ragged  sides  seemed  to  de- 
fy the  approach  of  human  footsteps.  We  knew 
the  impossibility  of  doing  this  from  a  view  of  the 
precipices  that  surrounded  us, — and  we  left  all 
our  clothing  excepting  what  covered  our  bodies 
— cut  from  our  pork  all  that  was  lean — buried 
and  threw  away  every  piece  of  money  in  our 
possession,  at  the  suggestion  of  Capt.  Riley. 
Most  of  us  made  small  sacks  out  of  the  sail  we 
had  in  the  boat,  with  a  pen-knife  and  some  rope 
yarn.  In  \hese  we  deposited  each  of  us  a  small 
quantity  of  fit  pork  and  a  porter  bottle  filled 
with  water,  it  being  all  we  had  now  remaining, 
excepting  one  extra  bottle  which  we  drank  up- 
on starting  on  our  uncertain  and  hazardous  jour- 
ney. We  now  came  to  a  solemn  agreement  to 
remain  together  as  long  as  possible,  and  to  ren- 
der to  each  other  every  kind  office  in  our  power. 
It  was  not  merely  common  danger  that  made  us 
friends  ;  we  had  become  attached  to  each  other 
by   previous  sufferings  and  mutual  favors.     As 


.rZ  ROBBINS"  JOURNAL. 

we  were  doomed  soon  to  be  separated  under 
circumstances  the  most  painful  to  the  human 
feelings,  I  must  be  indulged  in  naming  the  whole 
crew.  James  Riley,  captain — George  Williams, 
chief  mate — Aaron  R.  Savage,  second  mate,  all 
of  Middletown;  William  Porter,  James  Barrett, 
and  John  Hogan,  of  Massachusetts,  near  Port- 
land ;  Thomas  Burns,  of  Lyme  ;  James  Clarke, 
of  Hartford  ;  and  myself,  seamen.  Horace  Sa- 
vage, cabin-boy,  of  Middletown ;  and  Richard 
Deslile,  (man  of  colour)  cook,  of  Hartford.  Mr. 
Williams,  Barrett,  Hogan,  Antonio,  and  Deslile. 
(called  Dick)  still  remained  unheard  of,  and  pro- 
bably are  either  starved,  assassinated,  or  remain 
in  bondage,  from  which  the  rest  of  us,  heaven 
be  praised,  have  escaped. 

On  the  6th  of  Sept.  we  started,  scarcely  know- 
ing what  object  we  had  in  view.  We  resolved, 
however,  to  follow  the  coast,  hoping  to  espy 
some  sail  at  sea — hoping  to  find  water — hoping 
to  reach  the  wreck — and  hoping  *o  find  some- 
thing more  in  it  to  sustain  life  a  little  longer ; 
having  at  the  same  time  no  expectation  of  seeing 
either  of  those  hopes  realized  ;  am£  in  this  we 
were  not  disappointed  ;  we  were  defeated  in  ail 
of  them. 

Porter  and  myself  usually  kept  forward,  some 
times  seeing  our  companions  in  the  rear,  and 
sometimes  they  were  hidden  from  us  by  project- 
ing rocks.  It  is  impossible  for  a  stranger  to  this 
dreadful  coast  to  conceive  of  the  danger  and 
fatigue  we  endured  in  this  journey.  Occasion- 
ally we  found  a  short  distance  of  beach  on  which 
we  could  walk  without  difficulty  ;  we  were  then 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  53 

opposed  by  rocks  projecting  into  the  sea,  upon 
which  a  surf  was  constantly  beating.  We  had 
to  wait  for  the  surf  to  retire,  and  then  clamber 
over  the  rock.  For  many  rods  we  were  obliged 
to  ascend  upon  the  broken  cliffs  of  the  rocks, 
the  surge  beating  upon  the  base  of  them  below 
in  a  manner  calculated  to  make  despair  take  the 
place  of  hope.  During  this  day,  we  came  to  a 
narrow  projection  from,  the  almost  perpendicu- 
lar rock,  for  nearly  thirty  rods  in  length  :  not 
much  wider  than  a  stone  step.  It  was  our  only- 
passage.  It  was  as  much  as  fifty  feet  above  the 
surf  below,  and  rising  as  many  as  five  hundred 
feet  above  our  heads.  He  must  be  something 
more  or  less  than  man,  who  could  pass  this  track 
with  unconcern.  Porter  and  1  being  far  ahead, 
found  a  small  passage  into  the  rock,  where  we 
could  remain  with  safety,  and  we  waited  till  the 
rest  came  up.  The  water  had  worn  a  hole  in- 
to the  rock,  nearly  in  shape  of  a  common  kettle, 
which  was  filled  with  warm  water.  We  bathed 
our  heads  in  it  which  greatly  refreshed  us.  We 
were  soon  joined  by  our  whole  party,  who  did 
the  same,  with  the  same  effect.  We  continued 
to  o-rope  our  way  along  the  rocks  until  dark, 
when  we  came  to  a  projecting  one,  around  which 
we  had  to  wade,  or  swim  through  the  surf.  We 
then  ascended  a  cliff,  and  to  our  great  joy,  found 
a  place  where  we  could  repose.  It  ought  to  be 
here  mentioned,  that  all  the  way  we  saw  fresh 
dung,  and  tracks  of  animals,  and  during  the  ni^ht 
heard  their  howling ;  but  we  neither  of  us  this 
day  or  night  saw  any  animal.  We  lay  down  to 
rest  with  our  clothes  soaked,  after  eating  a  little 


f 


E2 


54  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

raw  pork  and  quenching  our  thirst  with  a  sip  of 
water.  Notwithstanding  our  constant  and  un- 
wearied exertions,  we  could  not  have  travelled 
more  than  five  miles  during  the  whole  of  this 
day,  judging  from  the  objects  in  our  rear  which 
we  had  passed,  and  a  harder  day's  travel  was 
never  made  by  man. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  September,  we 
found  ourselves  stiffened  and  almost  unable  to 
move  from  having  slept  the   preceding   night, 
which   was   chilly,   in   the  open  air,   with  wet 
clothes.     In  the  morning  we  partook  of  the  only 
food  in  our  possession — cutting  a  thin  slice  of 
raw  pork  from  what  remained,  and  water  enough 
only  to  wet  our  mouths.     With  this  little  nour- 
ishment, and  with  our  debilitated  bodies,  we  be- 
gan our  second  day's  journey.     The  difficulty  of 
travelling  was  not  diminished,   but  rather  in- 
creased.     We  shortly  came  to  a  rock  which  pro- 
jected a  great  distance  over  the  sea.    The  water 
had  worn  under  it  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet;  and  the 
cliffs  that  had  broken  from  the  rock  above,  lay,  in 
great  masses,  in  the  surf  below.     It  seemed  to  us 
impossible  to  pass:  but  we  resolved  to  attempt 
the  dreadful  passage.     We  let  ourselves  down 
from  rock  to  rock  until  we  reached  those  lying  in 
the  surf,  and  clinging  to  the  one  upon  which  we 
alighted,  the  dreadful  surf  broke  over  us  with 
all  its  violence.    As  the  sea  went  out.  we  snatch- 
ed the  opportunity  to  pass  a  short  distance  over 
these  craggy  rocks,  tearing  our  bodies  in  a  ter- 
rible manner.      In   this  way  we  travelled,  from 
rock  to  rock,  and  through  surf  after  surf,  I  should 
judge  half  a  mile  :  in  performing  which  we  wer*4 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  5.0 

as  many  as  three  hours.  At  length  the  party  all 
came  up,  and  we  reached  the  sand  beach  which 
we  had  before  seen  ahead.  Had  it  not  been  at 
low  water,  we  could  not  have  passed  at  all.  For 
most  of  this  distance,  the  water  had  worn  under 
(he  rocks,  as  near  as  we  could  judge,  from  sixty 
to  eighty  feet,  presenting  to  view  a  cavern,  from 
whose  frightful  aspect  the  heart  recoiled  with 
horror.  In  this  passage  we  found  and  ate  a  few 
salt  muscles,  which,  although  they  afforded  some 
nourishment,  very  much  increased  our  thirst. 
We  also  saw  a  large  leopard  ;  the  first  live  ani- 
mal we  had  seen  on  the  African  coast,  excepting 
the  camels,  at  Cape  Bajador,  where  our  calami- 
ties commenced.  It  was  about  10  o'clock  when 
we  reached  the  beach.  We  immediately  began 
to  dig  for  water,  and  having  no  implements  to 
do  it  with,  we  used  our  hands,  scraping  the  sand 
into  our  hats  and  throwing  it  to  the  top  of  the 
well.  Capt.  Riley  went  in  pursuit  of  a  passage 
to  the  world  above  the  rocks,  if,  by  good  for- 
tune, he  could  find  one,  and  Ave  continued  to 
dig,  without  the  least  effect,  in  various  place? 
for  water.  Capt.  Riley  gave  us  a  gloomy  ac- 
count on  his  return,  and  his  gloom  was  increas- 
ed  when  he  found  that  we  had  obtained  no  wra- 
ter.  We  all  once  more  started,  and  at  the  end 
of  the  beach,  it  being  about  noon,  we  wrere  com- 
pletely exhausted.  Nature  could  do  no  more — 
we  stretched  ourselves  upon  the  beacli — under 
a  shelving  rock  guarding  us  from  the  rays  of  the 
sun.  "  Sleep,  balmy  sleep — nature's  fond  nurse, 
sweet  restorer,"  came  to  our  relief;  we  repos- 
ed, and  our  "  senses  were  steeped  in  forgetful- 


£g  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ness,'*  for  two  hours.  I  will  not  attempt  to  de- 
scribe my  feelings  at  the  time  I  awoke,  for  it  could 
hardly  be  said  that  I  had  any  feelings.  I  had 
become  so  inured  to  misery,  that  she  had  adopt- 
ed me  as  her  child,  and  I  felt  no  disposition  to 
avoid  her  embrace.  I  knew  I  had  done  all  I 
could  to  rescue  myself  and  assist  my  compa- 
nions in  escaping  from  the  army  of  calamities 
that  surrounded  us.  This  seemed  to  be  a  com- 
mon sentiment  among  us. 

Capt.  Riley,  in  his  pursuit  of  a  passage  over 
the  rocks,  had  discovered  that  there  was  a  beach 
for  some  ways  ahead,  and  proposed  that  we 
should  make  one  effort  more  to  find  our  way  to 
the  land  above,  through  this  hitherto  inaccessi- 
ble precipice.  With  one  accord  we  acceded 
to  the  proposition,  and  were  once  more  on  the 
march.  We  soon  began  to  ascend,  crawling  up- 
on our  hands  and  knees,  catching  hold  of  every 
substance  that  would  assist  us  in  dragging  our 
bodies  forward.  It  was  next  to  dragging  our- 
selves to  the  scaffold — it  was  like  becoming  our 
own  executioners.  We  at  length  ascended  the 
top  of  the  precipice,  and,  O  merciful  Heaven! 
what  a  prospect  presented  itself  to  our  affright- 
ed view!  what  despondency  sunkinto  our  hearts! 
Had  we  been  called  to  meet  the  dangers  of  the  sea. 
or  to  fight  the  enemies  of  our  country,  we  should. 
J  know,  like  true  American  sailors,  have  encoun- 
tered them  without  dismay.  But,  after  having 
encountered  and  overcome  almost  all  the  varie- 
ties of  human  misery  ;  after  having  rung  all  the 
changes  of  calamity ;  then  to  be  cast  upon  a  bar- 
ren heath,  a  boundless  plain,  made  up  of  burn- 


ItOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  57 

ing  sand  and  flinty  stones,  producing  neither  a 
green  vegetable,  or  refreshing  water ;  there  to 
be  famished  with  hunger,  devoured  by  wild 
beasts,  or  become  slaves  to  the  most  merciless 
of  creatures  that  wear  the  form  of  man,  was  sure- 
ly enough  to  appal  the  stoutest  heart!  It  seem- 
ed as  if  death  was  about  to  overtake  us ;  and  the 
outstretched  plain  before  us  seemed  like  the 
great  Golgotha  of  the  human  race.  Casting  our 
eyes  far  to  the  southward,  the  plain,  owing  to 
the  striking  of  the  rays  of  the  sun  upon  the  dried 
sand,  appeared  like  an  immense  lake.  We  even 
thought  of  going  in  pursuit  of  it ;  but  having  so 
long  been  betrayed  by  the  illusions  of  hope,  this 
ignis  fatuus  could  not  lead  us.  Some  of  us  felt 
a  disinclination  to  move  at  all.  Hogan,  at  the 
mention  of  whose  name  I  can  hardly  suppress  a 
falling  tear,  however,  the  first  one  who  ventur- 
ed upon  the  hawser  as  before  mentioned,  was 
asked  what  it  was  best  to  do?  He  answer- 
ed, with  perfect  apathy,  «  I  don't  know — but 
what's  the  use  of  lying  down  to  die  as  long 
as  we  can  stand  up  and  walk."  The  fortitude 
of  a  New-England  sailor  is  certainly  proverbial; 
but  we  are  told  that  a  continual  dropping  will 
wear  away  stones  ;  and  as  our  bodies  wasted. 
our  courage  was  diminished.  We  moved  oil' in 
a  body,  keeping  in  with  the  coast ;  and  as  we 
wandered  near  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  we 
were  almost  dizzied  by  the  immense  distance  to 
the  roaring  surge  at  the  base,  which  continualh 
beat  and  wasted  its  force  upon  this  iron  bound 
coast.  We  occasionally  saw  a  wild  dry  plant 
resembling  a  wild  parsnip,  or  fennel  stalk,  which 


58  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

we  dug  up  out  of  the  hard  baked  earth  with 
sharp  stones  and  the  knives  we  had  with  us.    It 
afforded  but  little  nourishment  to  us,  and  from 
the  appearance  of  the  earth  around  them,  they 
had  been  sought  after  and   ate  by  wild  beasts. 
their  tracks  being  visible  around   their  roots. 
We  saw  large  heaps  of  muscle  shells,  and  the 
appearance  of  a  former  fire  where  they  probably 
had  been  roasted  by  the  natives.     Thus  far,  in 
this  day's  travel,  we  had  found  but  little  sand,  the 
surface  of  the  earth  being  chiefly  covered  with 
sharp  stones.     But  towards  night,  coming  to  a 
more  sandy  ground,  we   discovered   the  tracks 
of  a  camel  and  those  of  a  large  human  foot,  tra- 
velling to  the  northward.     These  tracks  appear- 
ed to  be  recently  made  :  indeed  they  must  have 
been,  as  the  blowing  of  the  dry  sand  would  soon 
have  filled  them  up.     This  circumstance  con- 
vinced   us  that   we  were  at  no  great  distance 
from  some  of  the  natives;   and  however  terrible 
was  the  reflection,  we  now  felt  anxious  to  fall  in 
with  them,  for  we  were  famishing  and  thirsting 
to  death.     We   still  had   a  few  drops   of  water 
remaining,  with  which  we  moistened  our  mouths, 
after  sitting  down  near  the  precipice,  where  we 
enjoyed  a  cool  breeze.     After  travelling  a  little 
farther,  we  discovered  a  sandy  beach  ;   the  pre- 
cipice suddenly  diminishing  and    filling  back 
from  the  shore.     We  intended,  if  possible,  to 
make  this  beach,  and  there  to  spend  the  night. 
It  now  became  dark;  and  after  travelling  about 
an  hour  we  discovered  the  light  of  a  fire  at  a 
considerable  distance  ahead.     This  discovery 
excited  in  our  bosoms  the  mingled  emotions  of 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  69 

joy  and  fear— joy,  that  we  might  obtain  some- 
thing to  satisfy  the  hunger  that  gnawed  upon 
our  frames,  and  quench  the  thirst  which  was 
parching  us  to  powder — fear,  that  this  reliei 
would  forever  take  from  us  the  freedom  which 
we  enjoyed  with  our  misery.  We  descended, 
with  great  difficulty,  about  halfway  down  to  the 
beach,  and  upon  a  steep  side-hill,  surrounded 
by  craoged  rocks,  we  laid  down  upon  the  burn- 
ing sand,  after  having  scraped  off  the  surface  of 
it  to  make  a  cooler  bed,  and  also  a  guard  to 
prevent  us  from  sliding  down  the  hill.  Here 
we  slept  until  morning;  and  upon  awaking, 
found  ourselves  chilled  by  the  cold  air  and  the 
dews  which  prevail  herein  the  night  season, 
notwithstanding  the  heat  of  the  days. 

The  8th  of  September  had  now  come,  a  day 
memorable  in  the  calender  of  our  crew ;  for 
upon  this  day  we  lost  the  exalted  character  of 
freemen,  and  became  the  most  degraded  of 
slaves. 

About  sun-rise  we  were  all  assembled  upon 
the  sand  bank  upon  which  we  had  slept,. and  in 
a  united  manner,  joined  Mr.  Savage  (if  I  right- 
ly recollect)  in  prayer.  Standing  uncovered 
upon  the  declivity  of  the  hill,  with  the  boundless 
ocean  roaring  on  one  side,  and  the  immense  de- 
sert stretching  out  on  the  other,  we  poured  out 
our  souls  to  that  God  who  made  them,  implo- 
ring His  protection  and  support  in  whatever  situ- 
ation we  might  be  placed,  in  whatever  scenes 
we  might  be  called  to  act,  and  in  whatever  suf- 
ferings we  might  be  compelled  to  endure.  We 
then  mutually  pledged  ourselves  to  each  other, 


CO  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

that,  as  we  should  undoubtedly  very  soon  be  en- 
slaved by  the  Arabs,  and  probably  separated 
from  each  other,  we  would  use  every  means  to 
effect  our  own  and  each  other's  release,  that 
should  fall  in  our  power;  that  if  we  could,  by 
any  means,  convey  the  intelligence  of  our  situa- 
tion to  any  Christian  power,  we  would  avail  our- 
selves of  the  opportunity.     We  now  descended 
the  hill  to  the  beach,  and  continued  our  course 
along  the  same  to  the  northeast.    After  proceed- 
ing about  two  miles,  as  I  judged,  and  rising  a 
small  sand  hill,  we  discovered  at  no  great  dis- 
tance a  drove  of  camels.     We  came  to  a  sudden 
stop,  and  upon  consultation,  some  were  for  go- 
ing on,  others  for  lying  by.     We  concluded  that 
this  might  be  a  caravan  travelling  to  the  north- 
ward ;  and  might  assist  us  on.      We  continued 
to  approach  them  ;    and  as  we  drew  near,  we 
concluded  there  must  have  been  as  many  as  se- 
venty or  eighty  of  the  natives.     We  were  now 
first  discovered  by  six  or  seven  of  them,  who  had 
wandered  from  the  clan ;  one  of  whom  appear- 
ed to  be  a  middle  aged  man,  and  who  afterwards 
became  Hogan's  and  Dick's  master — the  others 
were  two  women,  the  rest  being  children.     As 
soon  as  they  saw  us,  they  run  rapidly  towards 
us.     We  immediately  fell  upon  our  knees,  and, 
by  signs,  begging  the  man,  who  was  armed  with 
a  drawn  scimitar,  to  spare  our  lives,  and  bestow 
upon   us  a  little  water.     The  first   request  he 
granted,  but  totally  disregarded   the   second. 
The  women,  ten  times  more  ferocious  in  appear- 
ance than  the  men,  came  up  with  the  children, 
and  with  the  greatest  violence,  stripped  off  all 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  6 J 

our  clotlies  excepting  trowsers.  Some  of  us. 
however,  were  stripped  entirely  naked,  al- 
though they  left  me  my  trowsers.  The  man,  in 
the  mean  time,  was  constantly  brandishing  his 
fiaked  scimitar  around  our  heads,  and  darting  it 
towards  our  breasts,  seeming  impatient  to  see 
us  bleeding.  The  whole  clan  now  discovered 
us,  and  came  rushing  on  with  many  of  their  ca- 
mels. The  manner  of  their  approach  defies  de- 
scription ;  some  were  running  on  foot,  armed 
with  spears,  some  on  camels,  some  with  musk- 
ets, others  with  large  clubs,  others  with  scimi- 
tars, and  all  seemed  ai^jrious  to  be  the  first  sha- 
rers in  the  plunder,  when  alas,  they  could  find  no 
plunder  but  our  miserable  bodies.  As  they  came 
up,  those  who  had  possessed  themselves  of  all 
our  clothes,  and  of  our  persons  also,  began  to 
throw  sand  into  the  air,  and  hooting  somewhat 
like  American  savages.  A  contest  now  began 
among  themselves,  of  which  we  were  spectators, 
all  contending  for  their  right  to  us  as  slaves. 
After  this  contest  was  ended,  in  which  no  lives 
were  lost,  although  much  heathen  blood  was 
shed,  we  were  all  led  towards  the  well ;  each 
one  of  us  having  three  or  four  Arabs  hold  of  us, 
forcing  us  on,  and  each  of  them  contending  for 
his  right  to  us,  as  his  slave.  We  very  soon  reach- 
ed the  well,  around  which  were  a  number  of  ves- 
sels filled  with  water,  in  which  the  camels  were 
drinking.  They  were  made  of  the  skin  of  the 
camel.  The  top  of  them  was  a  circular  hoop, 
to  which  the  skin  was  sewed,  and  which  rested 
on  three  legs.  Between  these  legs,  the  skin 
hung  down  in  the  shape  of  a  common  basket. 


,52  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

holding  generally  about  twenty  gallons,  from 
which  five  or  six  camels  drink  at  one  time ;  it 
being  supplied  from  the  well  until  the  camels 
are  satistied.  As  1  came  to  the  well,  my  mas- 
ters released  me  from  their  grasp.  I  immediate- 
ly plunged  my  head  into  the  tub  with  the  ca- 
mels, to  satisfy  my  raging  thirst,  regardless  of 
the  vessel  or  of  the  kind  of  liquid  I  was  drink- 
ing. The  camels  were  frightened  by  their  new 
companion,  and  began  to  retire  ;  the  natives 
immediately  drove  me  away,  and  restored  to 
the  camels,  more  humane  than  their  masters, 
their  previous  right.  During  this  time  there 
seemed  to  be  a  contest  among  those  who  brought 
me  to  the  well,  the  object  which  was  to  deter- 
mine to  whom  of  right  I  belonged.  They  seized 
me  three  or  four  at  a  time,  and  pulled  me  one 
way  and  the  other,  with  so  much  force,  that  I 
concluded  they  were  about  to  settle  the  dispute 
by  making  an  equal  distribution  of  my  body 
among  them.  During  this  scene,  in  which  I  was 
a  passive  actor,  they  kept  constantly  jabbering 
very  loud  and  with  great  earnestness.  At  length 
one  of  them  continued  his  hold,  the  rest  having 
surrendered  me  to  him;  and  he  now  became 
my  sole  master.  His  name  was  Ganus.  He  was 
about  five  feet  eight  inches  in  height ;  large  and 
raw  boned,  as  is  indeed  the  case  with  all  the 
wandering  Arabs,  and  about  forty  years  of  age. 
It  had  now  become  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  My  master  led  me  off  to  his  camels 
stationed  at  a  small  distance,  in  the  keeping  of 
two  young  women,  who  afterwards  proved  to  be 
his  sisters.     I  here  fell  in  with  Mr.  Savage,  Mr 


BOBBINS'  JOUK.NAJ..  6.r> 

Williams,  and  Barrett,  who  were  situated  neat 
by.  They  informed  me  that  they  had  been  fur- 
nished with  a  small  supply  of  milk  and  water. 
The  girls  then  gave  me  some  milk  and  water,  in 
a  bowl,  which  1  shared  with  my  companions  in 
misery.  The  camels  having  been  sufficiently 
watered,  and  the  goat  skins  having  been  filled, 
preparations  were  made  for  a  departure  from 
the  well. 

CHAP.  VI. 

Separation  of  the  crew — taking  hare — departure  into  the  desert 
— mode  of  travelling— water— goat  skin — arrival  at  a  tent — 
mode  of  making  fire— cooking  and  eating— travelling  upon 
Zahara — Mahomedan  worship — clothing. 

September  8th,  1815. 

FROM  this  day  I  date  my  slavery  among  the 
Arabs,  and  my  shipmates  may  also  date  theirs 
from  the  same  time.  We  were  now  all  in  the 
possession  of  barbarian  masters  ;  although  it  is 
impossible  forme  to  tell  precisely  how  the  crew 
were  distributed.  Just  before  my  master  started, 
which  was  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock,  A.  M. 
I  was  permitted  to  take  leave  of  Oapt.  Riley  and 
all  the  crew,  who  were  situated  in  different  pla- 
ces around  the  well,  excepting  Mr.  Williams  and 
Barrett,  who  went  off  in  company  with  me.  As 
it  is  wholly  impossible  to  describe  the  feelings 
of  my  bosom  at  this  adieu,  I  will  not  attempt  it. 
More  poignantly  distressing  they  could  not  have 
been,  had  I  been  about  to  leave  this  world  for 
another.  It  left  me  in  a  state  of  horror  and  an- 
guish nhich  I  then  thought  I  could  not,  but  for 


04  ROBBINS"  JOURNAL. 

a  short  time,  survive.     I  was  mounted  upon  a  ea 
mel  behind  the  hump,  wholly  destitute  of  cloth- 
ing excepting  my  trowsers,  and   compelled  to 
steady  myself  by  clinching  the  long  hair  upon 
the  hump,  which  is  generally  from  four  to  sis 
inches  in  length.     The  back  of  the  camel,  from 
the  hinder  part  of  the  protuberance   upon  it. 
commonly  called  the  hump,  is  entirely  smooth  : 
the  back  bone   extremely  sharp,  and   the  hip 
bones  projecting  but  a  very  little  from  the  rump, 
which  slopes  very  steeply,  so  that  it  is  utterh 
impossible  to  keep  your  seat  without  inclining 
the  body  far  forward,  and  constantly  holding  on 
by  the  long  hair.     The  camels  commonly  used 
for  carrying  baggage  and  passengers  are  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  hands  in  height ;    and  al- 
though in  riding  at  full  trot  the  naked  body  of 
the  miserable  slave  who  is  compelled  to  ride,  is 
excoriated  and  torn  to  pieces,  a  sudden  fall  from 
them  would  endanger  his  life.     If  he  falls  nil' by 
accident,  or  voluntarily  slips  from  his  painful 
seat  to  relieve  himself  from  excruciating  torture. 
he  is  left  in  the  rear,  and  is  driven  up  to  the  par- 
ly who  have  gotten  ahead,  by  the  scimitar,  the 
?pear,  or  the  club  of  his  master.     After  travel- 
ling in  this  way  for  some  miles,  I  began  to  won- 
der why  I  had  not  been  sunk  in  the  ocean,  pre- 
cipitated from  a  rock,  or  in  some  sudden  way 
been  deprived  of  that  life  winch  now  became  a 
burthen  to  me.     My  body  was  naked,  excepting 
my  legs,  under  the  almost  vertical  rays  of  the 
sun,  being  within  the  torrid  zone,  or  tropic  of 
Cancer,  and  my  legs  were  constantly  charing  and 
wearing  away  by  constantly  thumping  upon  the 


ROBJJLNS'  JOURNAL.  (5.r« 

hard  liips  of  an  hard  trotting  camel.  Poor  beast, 
thought  I,  we  both  have  the  same  unfeeling  mas 
ter,  and  must  both  submit  to  the  capricious  ex- 
ercise of  that  power  which  absolute  authority 
gives  him,  1  almost  imagined  that  the  camel  pi- 
tied me ;  and  should  have  come  to  this  conclu- 
sion absolutely,  had  it  not  been  from  the  prevail- 
ing sentiment  that  men  possessed  more  httih&nitij 
than  brides.  How  often  are  we  in  the  habit  of 
making  mistakes!  The  Arab  is  not  the  only 
being,  among  ihose  called  rational,  whose  dire* 
fill  cruelty  would  make  even  a  tiger  weep. 

After  we  had  ascended  the  precipice,  and  had 
gone  some  distance  upon  the  plain,  my  master 
left  his  camels,  his  baggage  and  me,  in  the  keep- 
ing of  the  girls,  and  joined  the  master  of  Mr. 
Williams  and  Barrett.  They  knew  that  we  must 
have  landed  on  this  coast  at  no  great  distance  oil: 
and  having  asked  me,  by  signs,  where  the  boat 
or  vessel  lay  in  which  we  were  wrecked,  I  satis- 
fied them  by  signs  as  well  as  I  could.  They  now 
both  started  upon  a  long  trot,  a  camel  seldom 
galloping,  and  went  in  pursuit  of  the  boat  or 
wreck.  My  master  had  about  twenty  camels, 
and  the  master  of  Mr.  Williams  and  Barrett 
about  the  same  number,  and  we  were  now  all 
joined  in  one  party,  in  the  keeping  of  the  women 
belonging  to  the  two  parties.  We  now  proceed- 
ed upon  the  plain  towards  (he  interior,  in  a  S.  E 
direction,  travelling  at  full  speed.  We  were 
compelled  to  keep  up  with  the  party,  and  al- 
though riding  in  the  manner  before  described 
was  excessively  painful,  we  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  enduring  it,  as  we  could  not  on  f«6t 

F  2 


06  BOBBINS"  JOURNAL. 

do  this.  We  however,  occasionally  dismount- 
ed, and  run  a  short  distance  on  foot,  to  obtain  a 
little  relief  from  our  pain,  occasioned  by  the  hard 
trotting  of  the  camels.  At  about  2  o'clock,  two 
Arabs  approached,  with  great  speed,  stole  Mr. 
Williams  and  Barrett  from  their  keepers,  in  spite 
of  all  their  exertions  to  prevent  it ;  placed  them 
behind  upon  their  camels,  and  made  off  to  the 
south;  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  were  out  of  sight. 
I  was  now  left  alone ;  no  human  creature  to  as- 
sociate with  ;  no  bosom  into  which  I  could  pour 
my  own  sorrows.  My  captain  and  shipmates 
were  all  dispersed,  and  in  different  hands ;  and 
I  was  left,  without  any  spectator  of  my  distress- 
es, excepting  the  wretches  who  took  delight  in 
increasing  them.  The  girls  now  stripped  oft 
my  trowsers,  and  gave  me,  in  exchange,  a  strip 
of  old  blanket,  about  eighteen  inches  wide, 
which  I  made  fast  around  my  middle  with  thorns. 
I  begged  for  some  water,  which  they  gave  me 
in  an  old  hat,  which  I  was  obliged  to  carry  in 
my  hand,  out  of  sight  of  the  camels,  lest  by 
wearing  it,  I  should  frighten  them.  We  then 
started  again;  and,  as  the  party  slackened  their 
pace  a  little,  I  was  enabled  to  keep  up  on  foot. 
We  continued  in  a  S.  E.  direction;  and  after  tra- 
velling about  two  hours,  I  had  the  firs*t  view  of 
the  Arabs'  tents.  Vi  *  halted  at  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  distance  from  them,  and  I  soon  saw  a 
female  coming  towards  us,  who  came  out  to 
meet  the  returning  party.  She  seemed  to  ma- 
nifest a  little  feeling  at  my  forlorn  situation,  and 
entreated  the  girls  to  give  me  a  little  water, 
which  they  did.      She  took  hold  of  my  hands. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  57 

and  examined  them  very  intently,  showing  at  the 
same  time  signs  of  wonder  and  curiosity.  We 
then  prosecuted  our  journey,  some  mounted  or: 
camels,  and  some  on  foot,  till  about  five  o'clock 
the  sun  appearing  about  an  hour  high.  We  now 
came  near  the  tents  belonging  to  the  two  mas- 
ters of  our  party,  situated  in  a  small  valley.  The 
surface  of  the  ground  consisted  of  hard  baked 
earth  filled  with  small,  sharp,  flinty  stones,  and 
occasionally  of  a  small  vein  of  sandy  ground 
There  was  not  a  tree  nor  vegetable  in  sight ;  and 
the  earth  had  nothing  verdant  upon  it,  but  a  feu 
small  bushes  thinly  scattered,  about  two  feet 
high.  Upon  these,  the  camels  fed.  They  were 
distributed  around  the  valley,  and  supported 
themselves  by  browsing  upon  these  bushes.  The 
camels  loaded  with  water,  which  was  contained 
in  goat  skins,  were;  driven  up  to  the  tent,  and 
unloaded. 

These  skins,  made  to  transport  water  from 
one  part  of  the  desert  to  the  other,  are  fitted  for 
this  purpose  by  taking  the  skin  whole  from  the 
woat.  This  is  done,  by  cutting  it  around  the 
neck;  then  by  thrusting  in  the  hand,  it  is  taken 
whole  from  the  animal  to  the  end  of  its  legs. 
The  holes,  at  the  end  of  the  legs,  are  made  fast. 
by  tying  an  overhand  knot  with  the  skin  of  the 
legs.  The  Arabs  have  a  kind  of  root  which, 
dried  and  pounded,  they  apply  to  the  inside  of 
the  skin,  which  cures  and  tans  it,  sufficiently  to 
become  a  water  vessel ;  leaving  the  hair  on  the 
outside  in  its  natural  state.  The  neck  of  the 
skin,  into  which  they  pour  the  water,  is  made 
water-tight  by  lashing  a  cord   around  it,  which 


68  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

is  also  made  fast  to  the  skin  of  one  of  the  fore 
legs  ;  and  in  this  way  they  keep  the  neck  of  the 
skin  in  a  perpendicular  position,  while  the  body 
of  it  lies  along-side  of  the  camel  horizontally ; 
being  made  fast  to  the  saddle  by  a  cord  extend- 
ing from  each  leg.  The  camel  is  sometimes 
leaded  with  four  oi  these  skins,  two  upon  each 
side.  These  skins  are  sometimes  used  for  the 
transportation  of  milk,  taken  from  the  camel,  al- 
though those  used  for  this  purpose  are  more 
thoroughly  tanned,  and  the  hair  wholly  taken 
off! 

Before  we  arrived  at  the  tents,  my  master's 
wife  and  three  children  came  out  about  half  a 
mile  to  meet  us.  They  welcomed  the  return  of 
the  party,  by  enclosing  their  hands  in  those  of 
the  returning,  and  also  throwing  their  arms  about 
their  necks  and  kissing  them.  The  old  lady 
wore  a  face  that  seemed  to  have  something  of 
humanity  in  it.  She  took  my  hand,  and  letting  it 
go,  put  hers  to  her  own  mouth,  motioning  to  me 
to  do  the  same,  with  my  own,  which  I  did.  The 
little  children,  by  their  signs,  wished  me  to  kis^ 
their  hands,  which  I  did.  They  all  manifested 
a  kind  of  pleasure  in  having  a  slave  in  their  fa- 
mily, to  serve  them,  and  more  probably  because 
they  hoped  to  make  a  sum  of  money  by  the  sale 
of  me.  I  was  then  conducted  to  the  tent;  and 
after  resting  awhile,  was  sent  out  with  one  of  the 
2;irls,  who  had  a  kind  of  hatchet  in  her  hand, 
for  what  purpose  1  could  not  tell.  I  how- 
ever soon  learned  it  was  to  cut  bushes  for  fuel. 
After  she  had  cut  a  few  of  them  to  instruct  me, 
ahe  handed  the  hatchet  to  me  and  bade  me  cut 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  69 

or  dig  them  out  of  the  ground.  After  gathering 
and  carrying  three  handful s  to  the  tent,  I  was 
told  it  was  sufficient,  and  was  bade,  by  signs,  to 
sit  down.  They  then  dug  a  small  hole  in  the 
ground  in  front  of  the  tent,  and  struck  tire  with 
a  flint  and  steel  upon  a  kind  of  dried  weed, 
which  served  for  tinder.  After  the  weed  had 
taken  tire,  they  gathered  up  a  quantity  of  dried 
camel's  dung,  which  is  always  to  be  found  around 
an  Arab's  tent,  and  after  nibbing  it  in  their 
hands,  placed  it  upon  the  burning  weed,  and 
blowing  it,  it  soon  set  the  dung  on  fire.  They 
•hen  put  on  a  few  dried  sticks,  and,  as  soon  as 
they  began  to  blaze,  they  were  placed  in  the 
bottom  of  the  hole.  This  is  the  universal  me- 
thod of  building  a  fire  among  this  people.  They 
then  gathered  some  small  stones  and  threw  into 

ill* 

the  fire ;  commanding  me  to  cut  a  small  slice 
from  the  pork  which  they  found  in  my  sack,  and 
the  same  being  cut  into  small  pieces,  it  was  put 
into  a  small  wooden  bowl.  They  then,  with  two 
sticks,  took  from  the  fire  in  the  hole  the  heated 
stones  and  dropped  thorn  into  the  bowl  among 
the  pork,  which  1  kept  from  burning  by  stirring 
it  round.  It  was  very  much  for  my  benefit  that 
my  mistress  was  a  Mahometan,  for  she  would  not 
publicly  eat  pork  herself,  although  she  dispensed 
so  far  with  the  articles  of  her  Faith,  as  to  permit 
her  children  to  partake  with  me  of  thic  unholy 
food.  Before  I  began  my  supper,  however,  she 
made  me  pour  my  pork,  fat  and  all,  into  my  hat. 
as  they  will  never  permit  a  Christian  to  conta- 
minate their  vessels  by  eating  or  drinking  in 
them  :    and  I  have  often  been   deprived  of  a 


70  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

draught  of  water,  because  no  vessel  but  theirs 
could  be  found  to  contain  it.  They  commanded 
me  to  preserve  part  of  this  me*  s  until  next  morn- 
ing, as  I  couid  have  no  more  food  until  the  next 
evening.  Cooking,  however,  is  an  uncommon 
duty  among  the  Arabs,  as  they  seldom  have  any 
thing  to  cook,  living  almost  wholly  upon  the  milk 
of  the  camel,  which  they  sometimes  warm  with 
heated  stones.  Indeed,  were  it  not  for  the  ca- 
mel, the  immense  desert  of  Zahara,  sometimes 
called  Zaara,  ami  Saharah,  must  be  wholly  de- 
serted by  human  beings.  From  the  peculiar  na- 
ture of  the  camel's  feet,  being  somewhat  of  the 
nature  of  a  puff-ball,  and  yielding  to  the  smallest 
pressure,  th  w  are  enabled  to  endure  the  sharp 
stones,  and  also  to  travel  in  the  deep  sand.  B) 
these  animals,  the  Arabs  are  enabled  to  traverse 
the  desert,  and  to  transport  then-  plunder,  their 
persons,  and  their  slaves,  from  dne  part  of  it  to 
another.  The  country,  producing  no  vegetable 
food  of  any  consequence,  the  natives  are  enabled 
to  sustain'life  by  the  milk  of  fchese  animals  and 
their  meat  when  slain.  Why  they  are  permit- 
ted to  live  at  all,  as  they  do  nothing  to  add  to 
the  common  stock  of  human  enjoyment,  but  ev- 
ery thing  in  their  power  to  diminish  it,  is  a  ques- 
tion which  neither  the  dim  light  of  nature,  nor 
the  imperfect  reason  of  man  can  solve.  At  about 
eleven  o'clock  at  night,  the  usual  time  of  milk- 
ing the  camels,  I  had  perhaps  a  pint  of  milk 
mixed  with  a  pint  of  water,  which  is  the  usual 
quantity  afforded  a  slave.  The  reason  for  milk- 
ing the  camels  near  ihe  middle  of  the  night  i~. 
to  let  their  milk  cool,  which  is  always  much 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  71 

heated  by  the  exercise  of  the  animal,  and  the 
burning  sun  of  the  preceding  day.  They  suf- 
fered me  to  sleep  upon  the  sand  at  one  corner 
of  the  tent.  In  the  course  of  the  night  my  master 
Ganus  returned  from  seeking  after  the  boat.  To 
me,  it  was  next  to  a  miracle,  that  he  could  have 
reached  the  boat,  and  have  taken  therefrom  ar- 
ticles which  I  knew  we  left  there,  in  this  short 
space  of  time.  But  afterwards,  on  seeing  Porter, 
lie  told  me  that  the  next  day  after  my  master 
descended,  he  went  down  to  the  boat  himself 
with  his  master.  That  the  camels  and  an  Arab 
would  descend  a  precipice  with  ease,  which  an 
European  or  American  could  hardly  pass  with- 
out endangering  his  life.  My  master  brought  a 
bag  of  rice  which  we  had  left  near  the  boat,  the 
same  being  ruined  by  the  salt  water,  and  having 
turned  as  green  as  verdigris :  he  also  brought 
some  lean  pork,  which  we  could  not  carry  with 
us  upon  the  precipice ;  a  part  of  a  boat  sail, 
pieces  of  ropes,  and,  what  reminded  me  of  our 
brig  and  my  country,  the  colours  of  the  brig. 

September  9th. — This  was  the  second  day  of 
my  slavery.  The  family  of  my  master  consisted 
of  himself,  his  wife,  and  two  girls,  and  a  boy;  the 
oldest  about  twelve.  His  mother  and  his  two 
sisters,  before  mentioned,  lived  in  a  tent  near  by. 
and  both  seemed  to  constitute  but  one  family. 
I  now  furnished  myself  with  a  long  string,  having 
no  means  to  keep  the  day  of  the  week,  or  of  the 
month,  the  month  itself,  or  even  the  year ;  and 
every  day  I  tied  a  knot  in  it  to  keep  my  reckon- 
ing and  have  it  correct.  The  family  of  my  mas- 
ter could  not  be  reckoned  among  the  rich  Arabs ; 


72  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

he  and  nis  mother  having  between  them  but  two 
small  tents,  and  but  about  twenty  camels,  young 
and  old.  At  this  time  they  milked  but  three, 
which  produced  but  about  six  quarts  of  milk 
daily.  This  served  for  the  support  of  the  whole, 
being  eight  in  number,  besides  myself;  and  my 
proportion  of  milk  was  of  course  the  smallest  in 
quantity,  being  sometimes  not  more  than  one 
pint,  mixed  with  the  same  quantity  of  water,  for 
twenty-four  hours.  They  generally  preserved  a 
part  of  the  milk  they  got  in  the  night,  in  a  goat 
skin,  for  the  next  day  at  noon  ;  depending  upon 
the  small  quantity  they  obtained  in  the  morning 
for  breakfast,  of  which  I  was  sometimes  deprived 
of  any  part.  . 

The  first  thing  the  family  do  upon  rising,  which 
is  invariably  at  day-break,  is  to  go  to  Sulfa,  or 
prayer.  This  they  perform  with  great  apparent 
solemnity.  They  begin  this  worship  by  pulling 
off  what  few  camel-skin  slippers  are  among 
them ;  then  kneeling  to  the  earth,  rubbing  sand 
upon  their  hands,  arms  and  faces,  a  number  of 
times.  In  whatever  attitude,  during  this  duty, 
whether  standing,  sitting,  or  kneeling,  their  faces 
are  always  turned  to  the  east.  The  ceremony 
of  rubbing  their  hands,  arms  and  faces,  with 
sand,  is  a  symbol  of  ablution,  or  cleansing,  as 
they  have  no  water  to  perform  this  with.  After 
this  is  done  they  stand  up  very  erect,  facing  to 
the  east ;  each  repeating  exclamations  or  ori- 
sons, in  a  manner  so  very  peculiar,  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  for  a  foreigner  to  spell  the 
words  made  use  of,  however  familiar  he  may  be- 
come with  the  pronunciation  of  them.  It  is  equally 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL  73 

difficult  to  obtain  from  them  the  precise  meaning 
of  the  words  used  ;  as  there  is  a  kind  of  peculiar 
mystery  in  their  language,  as  well  as  a  peculiar 
solemnity  in  theirdeportrnent  when  worshipping. 
For  nineteen  months  I  was  in  the  habit  of  wit- 
nessing the  worship  of  the  Arabs,  in  families  and 
in  larger  bodies,  generally  four  times  in  a  day, 
and  hearing  the  exclamations  they  made  ;  and 
will  attempt  to  enter  down  a  few  of  their  most 
frequently  repeated  expressions.  Looking  to- 
wards the  east,  they  exclaim — "  Sheda  cl  la  lahy 
Hi,  Allah  !• — Sheda  Mahommed  Rah  sool  Allah  /" 
They  then  throw  their  outspread  hands  forward, 
exclaiming  Allah  Hooakibar  ("  Great  God.") 
They  then  kneel  down  upon  the  earth,  and,  sup- 
porting their  bodies  with  their  hands,  kiss  the 
earth  ;  and  as  they  kiss  it,  exclaim  again,  Allah 
Hooakibar ;  then  rising  erect,  repeat  the  same 
expressions.  They  now,  with  a  low  and  solemn 
tone  of  voice,  casting  their  eyes  occasionally  to- 
wards heaven,  repeat  over  a  prayer  from  one  to 
two  minutes  in  length.  From  having  afterwards 
learned  the  meaning  of  many  of  the  expressions 
made  use  of  in  these  prayers,  I  feel  fully  author- 
ized to  say  that  they  return  thanks  for  the  favors 
received  ;  for  the  food  they  eat ;  for  the  clothes 
they  wear.  They  mostearnestly  pray  for  rain  when 
the  earth  is  dry ;  and  for  sufficient  food  for  their 
camels.  They  pray  for  abundance  of  plunder, 
and  that  they  may  take  numerous  slaves.  That, 
the  Great  God  would  destroy  their  enemies  and 
protect  them;  that  he  would  keep  their  children 
alive,  and  bless  all  their  possessions.  In  the 
course  of  these  prayers,  they  frequently  mention- 

G 


74  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ed  the  name  of  Moolay  Solimaan.  During  the 
repetition  of  this  prayer,  they  stand  perfectly 
erect.  After  the  conclusion  of  it,  they  again  ex- 
claim, loudly,  Allah  Hooakibar,  and  again  kiss  the 
earth,  in  the  manner  described,  two  or  three 
times,  at  each  time  repeating  Allah  Hooakibar  ! 
They  then  sit  down  upon  the  earth,  and  each  re- 
peats over  to  himself,  probably  some  part  of  the 
Koran.  During  this,  they  hold  in  their  hands, 
the  most  of  them,  a  string  of  beads  upon  which 
they  cast  their  eyes  as  though  offering  to  them 
the  most  profound  adoration.  These  beads  they 
count  over,  stopping  as  they  come  to  some  par- 
ticular one.  They  sometimes  wear  them  upon 
their  arms,  and  frequently  carry  them  in  their 
hands  as  they  are  walking  or  sitting.  They  close 
this  ceremony  by  repeating  the  words,  Sulle 
Jlfulla. 

This  is  a  description  of  family  worship.  When 
a  larger  number  are  together,  the  worship  is 
conducted  by  arranging  themselves  in  a  single 
line,  one  of  the  oldest  stepping  out  in  front,  and 
being  the  only  speaker.  They,  however,  all  re- 
peat with  him,  Allah  Hooakibar,  and  following 
his  motions,  bow  to  the  earth  and  kiss  it.  When 
a  family  have  closed  their  morning  worship,  they 
proceed  to  suckle  the  young  camels,  the  bag  of 
the  old  one  being  always  secured  from  them,  by 
a  kind  of  basket  made  of  a  species  of  grass  found 
in  some  of  the  northern  parts  of  the  deserts, 
which  the  women  fasten  over  them.  They  then 
milk  the  remainder  into  a  bowl,  which  is  but  a 
trifle,  and  divide  and  drink  it.  The  camels,  un- 
less they  are  to  travel,  are  then  sent  off  to  iced 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  7/) 

upon  the  small  shrubs  or  bushes  already  men- 
tioned, being  always  in  the  care  of  some  one  of 
the  family.  My  master  remained  in  his  tent 
through  this  day.  Having  obtained  two  pair  of 
shoes,  he  gave  one  pair  to  me,  they  being  part 
of  the  plunder  they  took  from  the  crew  the  day 
before.  He  restored  to  me  my  trowsers,  which 
his  sisters  the  day  before  had  torn  from  me, 
having  cut  them  off  at  the  knee,  saying,  all  be- 
low the  knee  was  foonia — i.  e.  good  for  nothing. 
He  also  gave  me  part  of  our  boat  sail,  which  his 
son  fancied,  and  took  from  me,  giving  me  a 
patched  skin  in  exchange,  which,  lied  in  front, 
hangs  over  the  back  part  of  the  body,  covering- 
it  nearly  as  low  as  the  knee.  The  family  spent 
part  of  the  day  in  examining  their  plunder, 
and  I  slept  under  the  tent  a  considerable  portion 
of  it.  I  ate  a  little  of  my  pork,  with  the  milk  al- 
lowed me  for  my  supper,  and  nothing  occurred 
until  next  morning. 

CHAP.  VII. 

Meeting  with  part  of  the  crew — preparations  for  a  journey — 
tent  —furniture — man-saddle  -  female  do. — loading  tent  and 
furniture — gazelle — Mr.  Williams  and  Barrett  Christian  and 
Mahommedan  religion — separation—  mode  of  spinning  and 
weaving — of  making  a  tent — of  pitching  it — scrupulous  re- 
gard to  worship. 

ON  the  10th  of  September,  1815,  at  about  9 
o'clock,  A.  M.  my  master  took  me  with  him,  on 
foot,  about  five  miles,  where  we  came  to  a  num- 
ber of  tents.  No  one  can  judge  of  my  surprise, 
when  1  sawCapt.Riley,Clarke,Burns,and  I  think 


r6  ROBBINS1  JOURNAL. 

Horace,  sitting  near  one  of  the  tents.  Although 
the  interview  with  my  shipmates  was  wholly  un- 
expected ;  although  it  produced  the  most  de- 
lightful feelings,  they  were  mingled  with  the 
melancholy  reflection  that  it  could  be  but  short, 
and  probably  would  be  the  last.  We  spent 
nearly  half  a  day  together;  and  while  we  were 
in  sad  conference  upon  the  subject  of  our  fate, 
the  iVrabs,  about  twenty  in  number,  were  hold- 
ing a  council.  These  they  frequently  hold,  but 
in  a  very  confused  and  irregular  manner,  having 
no  one  in  particular  to  preside  over  their  deli- 
berations. Not  at  tha  time  knowing  any  of  their 
language,  I  could  not  tell,  from  that  or  from  any 
signs,  what  was  the  subject  under  consultation  ; 
but  I  judged  it  was  relative  to  the  mode  of  dis- 
posing of  us,  their  slaves,  as  Capt.  Riley  was  tell- 
ing them,  by  counting  stones,  how  many  dollars 
he  would  give  for  our  ransom,  if  we  could  be 
carried  to  Morocco,  or,  as  the  Arabs  call  that 
country,  Marocksh.  Capt.  Riley  seemed  to  feel 
some  hopes  that  we  might  yet  get  released,  and 
advised  us  all  to  keep  up  good  spirits.  I  took  a 
painful  leave  of  them,  and,  at  about  3  P.  M.  re- 
turned with  my  mast  r  to  his  tent.  I  was  sent  to 
gather  wood  for  the  night.  The  family  built  a 
fire,  and  cooked  some  of  the  damaged  rice  which 
was  brought  from  the  boat,  by  heated  stones. 
This  they  did  by  putting  a  small  quantity  of  rice, 
mixed  with  water,  into  a  bowl;  then  throwing 
in  the  hot  stones  an^  covering  it  over,  it  became 
a  kind  of  pudding,  which  they  divided  among 
themselves,  leaving  what  little  adhered  to  the 
atones  for  my  share,   which  I  was  obliged   to 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  77 

scrape  from  them  with  my  teeth.  This,  with  a 
little  piece  of  lean,  salt  pork,  which  was  cooked 
by  the  embers  of  fire  mixed  with  sand,  a  little 
water,  and,  at  11  o'clock,  a  few  drops  of  milk, 
made  up  my  supper. 

On  the  1  lth,  for  the  first  time,  I  witnessed  the 
maimer  in  which  the  Arabs  prepare  for  a  jour- 
ney     It  may  here  be  remarked,  that  they  have 
no'  particular  places   appropriated  to  particular 
individual..     They  pitch  their  tents  in  any  un- 
occupied place ;  and    when  they   strike  them, 
they  leave  the  place  of  their  temporary  abode, 
to  the   next   occupant.     They  begin,  by  taking 
all  their  furniture,   from  the  inside  of  the  tent, 
which  consists  of  two   or  three  wooden   bowls 
(o-eddacks)  which  they  procure  from  the  Moors; 
about   the   same    number   of   water  goat  skins, 
(u-ilfobar)  and  a  small  milk   goat   skin,   (s  cow) 
both  of  which  have  been  before  described  ;  a 
small  axe,  (>^/o)-a  tent  knife,  made  perhaps 
of  an  iron  hoop,  (»**  --a  sleeping  mat  for  the 
family,  (lassaia)—*  patch-work   skin  (farrow) 
to  cover  them,   and  sometimes  a  few  spinning 
implements,  with  which  they  spin  camel  s   hair. 
They  all  have  a  kind  of  female  saddle  of  which 
no  idea  can  be  formed  by  an  American  without 
a  description ;  and   it   is  almost  impossible   to 
give  an  accurate  idea  of  it  by  the  most  minute 
description.     It  is  made  by  two  crotches,  not 
unlike   the   forward   part  of  our  saddle  trees. 
One  of  these  settles  on  to  the  back  bone  ot  the 
camel,  forward  of  the  hump,  and  the  other  back 
of  it.  From  these,  are  extended  two  poles  about 
four  feet  in  length,  and  near  the  ends  they  are 


G2 


78  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

made  fast  to  the  two  crotches  which  are  padded 
inside  to  prevent  them  chafing  the  camel's  back. 
Upon  the  top  of  these   two   poles,  is  placed  a 
camel's  hide,  the  outer  edge  of  which  is  sewed 
to  a  rim   rising  about   eight  inches   above  the 
poles,  making  a  sort  of  oblong  basket,  about 
three  feet  in   length,   and  two  in  width,  placed 
crosswise  upon  the  back  of  the  camel,  and  made 
fast  to  the  poles.     A  girth  is  made  fast  to  each 
of  these  poles   either  by  buckles,   which  they 
can  seldom  procure,  or  a  knot,  passing  under 
the  belly  of  the  camel.     Another  girth  or  rope 
passes  from  the  hinder  part  under  the  tail  of  the 
camel,  somewhat  like  our  cruppers.     Another 
one  extends  from  the  forward-  part  around  the 
breast  of  the  beast,  somewhat  in  the  manner  of 
our  breast  girths.  From  each  corner  of  this  bas- 
ket is  raised  a  pole,  meeting  in  the  centre  of  it, 
and  made  fast  at  the  top,  over  which  they  throw 
a  blanket,  a  skin,  a  piece  of  sail,  or  whatever 
they  have  suitable  for  this  purpose,  to  preserve 
their  bodies  from  the   rays  of  the  burning  sun. 
Into  these,  the  mother  generally  places  herself 
in  the  centre,  having  a   child  on  each  side  to 
keep  this  saddle  properly  balanced.   They  also 
have  a  saddle  which  is  placed  upon  the  forward 
part  of  the  hump  for  the  owner,  or  a  man  to  ride 
upon.     This  has  a  saddle-tree  forward,  which 
is  padded  inside,  and  goes  on  to  the  camel's 
shoulder  bones,  xery  near  the  neck,  rising  eight 
inches  above  the  seat,  which  is  circular,  hollow- 
ed in  the  middle,  and  from  the  outer  edge  a 
piece  of  raw  camel's  hide   is   drawn   over  it. 
•iround  the  whole  of  this  circular  scat,  except- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  79 

ing  where  it  is  made  fast  to  the  tree,  a  small 
thick  pad  is  fastened,  a  stud  extending  from 
each  side  of  the  circle,  and  resting  upon  the 
pad  to  support  it.     This  saddle  is  made  fast  by 
a  girth  passing  just  back  of  the  fore  legs.     The 
rider  seats  himself,  and  crosses  his  legs  upon  the 
descending  part  of  the  camel's  neck.     This  is  a 
description  of  the  saddles  generally  in  use,  al- 
though others  vary  in  some  trifling  respect.  They 
now  strike  their  tent,  and  take  therefrom  all  its 
long  and  short  poles.     These,  with  all  the  rest 
of  the  articles  described,  excepting  the  saddles, 
water  and  milk  skins,  they  roll  up  in  the  tent,  by 
putting  part  in  one  end  of  it,  which  is  folded  up 
in  shape  of  a  piece  of  cloth  of  different  lengths. 
They  roll  up  each  end  of  the  tent,  each  hav- 
ing a  long  tent  poll  in  it.  together  with  other  ar- 
ticles, so  divided  as  to  make  a  balance.     These 
poles  are  lashed  together  fore-and-aft  upon  the 
top  of  the  camel,  resting  upon  the  centre  of  the 
hump.     This  is  made  fast  to  the  animal  by  a 
rope  extending  over  the  top  of  it  and  around  the 
body.      Another  rope  passes  from  it  under  the 
tail,  and  another  round  the  breast.     All  this  pre- 
paration is  made  in  half  an  hour,  and  often  in 
less  time.     The  tent  and  its  contents  are  gene- 
rally put  upon  a  camel  that  is  driven,  although 
he  is  sometimes  ridden. 

We  started  this  day  at  sun  two  hours  high.  I 
shall  hereafter  be  less  particular  in  stating  the 
hour  of  the  day  upon  which  any  event  took  place, 
unless  it  is  a  very  interesting  one.  Indeed,  time 
was  of  but  little  consequence  to  me,  as  I  had  no- 
thing to  interest  me  but  the  peculiar  habits,  man- 


80  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ners,  and  customs  of  the  Arabs,  the  immense  de- 
serts through  which  I  was  passing  in  almost  ev- 
ery direction,  and  the  distresses  I  there  endured. 
This  day  we  travelled  moderately,  alternately 
on  foot,  and  mounted  on  camels.  As  we  came 
to  spots  where  bushes  were  thinly  scattered,  the 
camels  were  permitted  to  feed,  as  is  generally 
the  case.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  saw  great 
numbers  of  animals  which  the  natives  called 
Gazelle.  Their  appearance  was  very  similar 
to  that  of  a  deer,  although  they  were  of  a  small- 
er size.  They  were  extremely  gaunt  and  had 
long  legs.  Although  they  leaped  and  skipped 
about  with  great  activity,  they  manifested  but 
little  fear  upon  our  approach  :  and  continued  to 
browse  at  a  short  distance  from  us.  I  have  seen 
them  frequently  upon  different  parts  of  the  Za- 
hara  desert ;  but  I  never  saw  the  natives  take 
any  of  them,  although  I  have  often  seen  their 
skins,  and  was  at  this  time  wearing  part  of  one. 
I  afterwards  learned  from  the  natives,  that  they 
were  taken  at  a  particular  season  of  the  year, 
probably  on  account  of  their  condition  as  to  flesh 
and  hair,  the  latter  of  which  is  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful ;  surpassing,  in  this  respect,  any  animal  I 
ever  saw  in  America.  We  halted,  towards  night, 
amidst  a  small  flat  of  bushes,  more  flourishing 
than  any  I  had  before  seen,  in  sight  of  a  number 
of  tents.  It  is  not  generally  the  custom,  when 
on  a  journey,  to  pitch  tents  very  near  to  each 
other,  as  each  party  requires  a  considerable  ad- 
joining ground  to  feed  their  camels  upon  during 
the  night.  I  reckon  we  travelled  about  twenty 
miles  this  day,  and,  as  I  judged  from  the  sun,  in 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  81 

a  S.  E.  direction.  After  pitching  our  tent,  I  was 
sent,  as  usual,  to  gather  fuel  for  the  night,  then 
to  the  nearest  tent  to  get  fire,  as  this  would  save 
the  trouble  of  striking  one.  In  this  tent  I  saw 
Mr.  Williams  and  Barrett,  who  were  stolen  as 
before  mentioned.  Their  legal  master  had  re- 
gained them,  probably,  after  a  severe  contest,  as 
a  slave  is  the  last  piece  of  property  an  Arab  will 
relinquish ;  indeed,  they  are  the  only  property 
except  their  camels,  that  is  worth  a  contest. 
From  what  1  could  learn  relative  to  their  traffic, 
they  would  estimate  a  healthy  slave,  at  the  va- 
lue of  ten  full  grown  camels ;  although  as  they 
approach  near  to  a  market  for  slaves,  they  rise 
in  value. 

These  miserable  shipmates  were  almost  en- 
tirely naked.  The  skin  upon  their  backs  was 
very  much  blistered.  They  informed  me  that 
they  had  suffered  very  severely  from  rapid  tra- 
velling, and  from  want  of  food ;  they  still,  how- 
ever, had  a  small  quantity  of  pork  which  their 
master,  in  company  with  mine,  had  gotten  from 
the  boat,  and  which  neither  dared  to  eat.  Like 
me,  they  derived  some  benefit  from  the  religious 
tenets  of  their  master :  and  I  think  we  might  all 
say,  without  incurring  the  vengeance  of  Mahom- 
med,  their  prophet,  that  this  was  the  only  benefit 
we  ever  derived  from  the  faith  of  a  mussulman.  It 
is  almost  impossible  in  this  place,  to  avoid  re- 
marking upon  the  different  effect  that  the  two 
systems  introduced  into  our  world  by  our  divine 
Redeemer,  and  the  impostor  Mahommed,  has 
upon  the  professors  of  these  different  systems. 
The  religion  introduced   by  the   one   teaches 


82  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

"  Peace  on  earth,  and  good  will  to  men.  To  do 
to  others  as  you  would  have  others  do  to  you.'" 
It  teaches  men  to  check  the  operations  of  pas- 
sion, and  depraved  nature,  and  to  become  pure 
in  heart.  That  of  the  other  promises  the  full 
gratification  of  every  propensity.  His  paradise 
is  a  region  of  gluttony,  drunkenness,  and  de- 
bauchery. The  one  teaches  men  to  love  their 
enemies — the  other  to  destroy  them.  The  one 
teaches  us  "  to  feed  the  hungry,  and  clothe  the 
naked," — the  other,  to  tear  from  the  unfortunate 
being  in  their  power,  the  last  piece  of  raiment 
that  guards  him  from  the  inclemency  of  the  sea- 
sons, and  to  see,  with  perfect  indifference,  the 
famished  slave  die  at  their  feet,  when  they  be- 
come unfit  for  market. 

T  could  spend  but  few  minutes,  and  have  but 
few  words  with  my  unfortunate  friends.  I  has- 
tened to  my  master's  tent — built  a  fire — cooked 
a  small  slice  of  my  pork,  and,  at  the  usual  time, 
had  my  scanty  portion  of  milk  and  water ;  and. 
in  a  corner  of  my  master's  tent,  upon  the  sand, 
slept  till  day-light. 

September  12th. — This  day  we  started  early, 
and  continued  south  easterly.  I  sometimes  rode 
behind  my  master,  by  securing  myself,  as  well 
as  I  could,  by  means  of  my  skin  and  rope,  upon 
the  hump  of  the  camel.  We  halted  a  few  mi- 
nutes in  the  middle  of  the  day,  took  a  little  milk 
and  water,  and  the  camels  browsed  upon  the 
bushes.  At  about  sun  set  we  stopped  for  the 
night,  having  travelled,  as  I  concluded,  about 
fifty  miles.  Knowing  the  service  I  should  be 
compelled  to  perform,  I  voluntarily  set  myself 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL-  83 

about  it ;  procured  a  fire,  fuel  for  it,  assisted  in 
unloading  the  camels,  pitching  the  tent,  &c.  As 
it  was  in  vain  to  resist  the  power  of  the  unfeel- 
ing wretches,  into  whose  hands  fate  had  thrown 
me,  I  endeavoured  to  conciliate  their  favor,  by 
performing,  with  apparent  cheerfulness,  all  the 
irksome  duties  of  a  slave. 

13th. — This  was  a  day  of  but  little  travel  and 
considerable  rest ;  having  stopped  and  pitched 
the  tent  about  noon.  An  Arab's  tent,  folded  up 
as  before  described,  containing  almost  all  the 
moveable  estate  of  its.  owner,  is  taken  from  the 
camel — separated  from  its  contents,  and  pitch- 
ed, ready  to  receive  the  furniture  and  the  fami- 
ly, in  fifteen  minutes.  The  cloth,  of  which  the 
tent  is  made,  is  wove  of  CHinel's  hair,  sheared 
from  the  hump  and  sides  of  this  animal.  Their 
mode  of  spinning  this  hair,  which  they  prepare 
for  doing  by  whipping  it  in  the  same  manner 
Americans  do  oakum,  is  the  most  simple.  They 
have  no  implement  with  which  they  twist  this  or 
any  thing  else  ;  seeming  to  have  not  the  least 
idea  of  a  wheel  to  facilitate  motion.  They  hold 
a  quantity  of  this  hair  in  one  hand,  and  with  a 
spindle  in  the  other,  commence  the  operation. 
The  spindle  is  nothing  more  than  a  small  stick 
made  sharp  at  one  end,  and  about  eight  inches 
in  length.  This  they  make  fast  to  the  hair,  and 
with  the  thumb  and  finger  begin  to  twist.  After 
drawing  the  thread  to  the  length  of  the  arm,  they 
let  the  spindle  hang  down,  and  by  having  affixed 
to  the  lower  end  a  considerable  weight,  and  giv- 
ing it  a  twist  with  the  thumb  and  finger,  the 
weight  below  will  turn  the  spindle  sufficiently 


a 


84  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

to  twist  a  thread  about  three  feet  long.  The 
thread  is  then  wound  round  the  lower  end  of  the 
spindle,  and  in  the  same  way  they  continue  to 
draw  out  and  wind  up,  thread  after  thread,  un- 
til the  spindle  is  filled,  which  they  then  wind  off 
upon  a  ball.  When  they  have  made  two  balls, 
perhaps  of  the  size  of  a  twenty-four  pound  can- 
non shot,  they  twist  two  threads  into  one,  in  the 
above  manner,  after  having  wound  them  into  a 
single  ball.  In  this  tedious  and  slow  process 
they  manufacture  all  their  yarn  for  tent  cloth. 
When  they  get  a  sufficient  quantity  of  yarn  to 
make  one  tent  cloth,  which  is  longer  or  shorter, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  tent  they  intend  to 
make,  they  proceed  to  weave  it.  They  make 
the  cloth  about  three  quarters  of  a  yard  wide ; 
and  when  they  are  prepared  to  weave,  they  must 
halt  long  enough  to  weave  the  cloth  through,  as 
they  have  no  other  loom  than  that  which  is  made 
by  driving  into  the  earth  a  number  of  pegs  at 
each  end  of  the  web,  equal  to  half  the  number 
of  threads  they  put  into  the  warp.  Then  by 
turning  the  yarn  around  each  of  those  pegs  at 
each  end,  and  drawing  it  very  tight,  the  warp  is 
prepared  to  receive  the  filling.  They  have  no 
idea  of  a  reed,  a  harness,  or  a  shuttle.  They 
have  a  piece  of  hard  wood,  about  three  feet  in 
length,  about  three  inches  in  width,  and  about 
half  an  inch  thick.  This  has  a  handle  at  one 
end,  and  is  made  pointed  at  the  other,  resem- 
bling a  wooden  sword.  With  the  point  of  this 
instrument,  they  separate  the  threads  of  the 
warp,  having  half  upon  the  upper  side,  and 
half  upon    the  under  side  of  it.      Then,    by 


n 


BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL.  fct 

turning  it  up  edge-wise,  they  make  a  space  suf- 
ficiently large  to  pass  through  the  filling,  which 
ss  always  done  with  the  hand,  either  from  a  ball, 
or  from  a  stick,  upon  which  they  sometimes  wind 
it.  After  passing  through  a  thread,  it  is  beat  up, 
by  taking  hold  of  each  end  of  this  wooden  in 
strument,  and  pulling  it  up  two  or  three  timet 
with  as  much  force  as  a  female  can  conveniently 
exercise.  I  have  been  thus  particular  in  describ 
ing  the  mode  of  spinning  and  weaving,  among 
the  Arabs,,  to  shew  how  stupidly  ignorant  thiF 
barbarous  race  of  beings  are,  of  the  most  simple 
arts  of  civilized  life.  The  mode  described  is 
that  in  universal  practice  among  the  wandering 
Arabs;  although  at  Wadhioon  a  mode  some 
what  different  is  adopted. 

To  make  a  tent  for  a  family,  the  natives  ge 
nerally  sew  together  from  eight  to  twelve  of  tht 
pieces  of  cloth  manufactured  as  has  been  de- 
scribed. They  are  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  jr. 
length,  and  from  eighteen  to  twenty-five  feet  is 
width.  In  the  centre  of  this  tent  cloth,  upon  the 
inside,  is  sewed  on  a  kind  of  socket,  composed  oi 
the  thrums  of  the  camel's-hair  yarn.  When  they 
pitch  a  tent,  they  insert  into  this  socket,  an  ob- 
long block,  rounded  upon  the  top,  and  in  the 
under  side  of  which  is  made  two  mortises.  To 
each  tent,  are  two  long  poles  of  about  twelve 
feet  in  length,  and  two  short  poles  of  four  feel. 
Upon  each  corner,  is  a  loop  made  of  iron,  wood, 
or  rope,  and  strongly  fastened  to  the  tent  cloth, 
and  upon  each  side  and  end  two;  making  twelve 
in  the  whole.  To  each  of  these  loops  is  fasten 
ed  a  tent-peg,  about  one  foot  in  length,  with  a  raw 


86  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

carael's-hide  rope,  six  or  eight  feet  long.  The 
first  thing  done  in  pitching  a  tent,  is  to  spread 
the  cloth  flat  upon  the  ground ;  then  driving  in- 
to the  earth  the  twelve  pegs.  For  this  purpose, 
an  Arab  always  carries  with  him  a  smooth  round 
stone,  lest  he  should  come  to  a  place  where  none 
could  be  found.  In  driving  the  pegs,  the  cloth 
is  sufficiently  slackened,  to  give  it  a  proper 
height  with  the  long  poles  ;  and  constant  prac- 
tice almost  invariably  enables  them  to  make  a 
proper  allowance  for  this.  The  next  thing  done, 
is  to  insert  the  upper  end  of  the  long  poles,  into 
the  mortises  in  the  central  block.  These  poles 
stand  one  on  each  side  of  the  tent.  After  the 
upper  end  is  inserted,  a  sufficient  number  of  wo- 
men (for  the  men  are  but  spectators)  are  placed 
at  the  lower  end  of  each  pole  ;  and  raising  them 
at  the  same  time,  they  place  the  end,  which  is 
sharpened,  into  the  earth  ;  leaving  them  about 
eight  feet  apart  at  the  bottom.  This  braces  the 
tent,  and  prevents  the  wind  from  blowing  it 
down.  If  this  does  not  make  the  cloth  suffi- 
ciently tight,  it  is  made  so  by  means  of  the  ropes 
fastened  to  the  loops  and  the  pegs.  This  leaves 
the  tent  cloth  about  two  feet  above  the  ground. 
The  entrance  into  the  tent  is  made  by  the  two 
short  poles,  being  entered  into  the  two  side  loops, 
and  standing  perpendicularly.  This  entrance 
is  about  four  feet  high,  and  is  always  opposite 
to  the  wind;  for  if  the  wind  shifts  before  the 
tent  is  struck,  these  poles  are  shifted  to  the  op- 
posite side.  The  space  between  the  bottom  of 
the  tent  cloth,  and  the  earth,  is  generally  closed 
npon  the  back-side  and  the  ends,  by  means  of 


IIOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  87 

spare  cloths  which  are  fastened  to  the  tent  cloth, 
with  iron  or  wooden  pins,  and  to  the  earth,  by 
laying  stones  or  any  other  heavy  substance  upon 
the  edge  of  them.  This  preserves  the  people  with- 
in the  tent  from  the  chilly  easterly  wind,  which 
generally  blows  through  the  night  season.    Dur- 
ing the  afternoon  of  this  day,  I  remained  an  idle 
and  uninterested  spectator  of  the  stupid  con- 
duct, and  beastly  manners  of  the  wretches  with 
whom  I  was  compelled  to  associate.    But  by  this 
time  I  had  learned  that  it  was  my  best  policy  to 
conform  to  their  whims,  affect  a  cheerfulness 
which  I  could  not  feel,  and  submit  to  my  fate 
without  murmuring.     Notwithstanding  their  dis- 
regard for  every  thing  belonging  to  humanity, 
they  were  invariably  punctual  in  worshipping 
"  something  whom  they  call  God."      Three  or  four 
times  every  day,  let  their  engagements  be  what 
they  might;  let  their  violations  of  common  jus- 
tice be  ever  so  enormous ;  they  suddenly  pros- 
trate   themselves  upon   the   earth,   exclaiming 
"  Shcda  el  la  tah,  Hi  Allah — Sheda  Mahommed, 
Rahsool  Allah — Allah  Hooakibar!" — concluding 
with  some  part  of  the  Koran,  and,  with  the  most 
solemn    appearance    and   manner,   exclaiming 
"  Sidle  Malla"     Happy  may  the  wretched  slave 
think  himself,  who,  the  next  moment  after  this 
ceremony  is  ended,  can  feel  safe  from  a  stroke 
of  the  scimitar,  the  spear,  or  the  club. 


#£  KOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 


CHAP.   VIII. 

iainful  iravellirg — salutations — Mr.  Williams'  situation — Bar 
rett — rocks — Africans  enslave  each  other— a  wandering  male 
Arab-female  do.— American  pork — Mr.  Savage— interview 
with  him — a  rarity. 

September  14th,  1815. 
THIS  was  a  day  of  rapid  travelling,  having 
started  very  early,  and  not  having  halted  'till 
about  dark ;  and  I  conclude  we  must  have  made 
as  many  as  sixty  miles.  Our  course  was  an 
easterly  one,  and  no  event  of  any  consequence 
took  place.  I  rode  a  considerable  part  of  the 
day  behind  my  master.  To  do  this  with  the 
more  ease,  I  took  from  my  back  my  skin  to  se- 
cure myself  from  the  sharp  back  of  the  camel. 
But  while  this  preserved  my  seat  and  legs  from 
being  worn  raw,  my  back  was  exposed  to  the 
almost  vertical  rays  of  a  torrid  sun,  and  the  skin 
began  to  peal  from  my  back  from  being  blister- 
ed and  parched.  Judging  from  the  course  we 
had  travelled  from  the  place  where  I  was  cap- 
tured, I  conclude  we  must  now  have  reached 
the  21st  deg.  N.  latitude,  the  body  of  a  tent,  a 
camel,  and  a  man,  making  but  a  very  little  shade. 
and  that  to  the  south,  as  it  was  now  near  the  au- 
tumnal equinox.  This  night  our  tent  was  not 
pitched,  being  unloaded,  but  not  unfolded.  At 
the  time  of  stopping,  I  discovered  a  number  ol 
lights,  from  different  tents.  I  learned  from  one 
of  my  master's  sisters,  whose  name  I  had  nov* 
found  out  was  Muckwoola,  that  Mr.  Williams  and 
Barrett  were  in  one  of  these  tents.     How  she 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  89 

&new  this  I  cannot  tell;  but  this  I  know,  that  the 
different  parties  of  Arabs  generally  know  the 
situation  of  each  other,  and  the  slaves  they  have 
in  their  possession.  She  accompanied  me  to  the 
tent;  and  on  the  way,  said  some  things  to  me 
which  I  could  not  then  understand.  1  found  my 
shipmates  near  a  large  fire  in  front  of  a  tent,  it 
being  pitched  in  a  place  where  there  were  large 
dry  thorn  bushes.  They  were  cooking  some 
pork.  Upon  our  shaking  hands,  the  natives  no- 
ticed it  very  particularly,  laughing  and  sneering 
at  our  mode  of  salutation,  at  the  same  time  go- 
ing through  their  own  mode,  which  is,  by  placing 
the  inside  of  the  open  hands  together,  then  bring- 
ing it  to  the  lips,  touching  them,  and  dropping 
the  hand.  I  think  I  shall  always  prefer  the  mode 
handed  down  to  us  from  our  brave  Saxon  an- 
cestors, of  clasping  and  squeezing  the  hand  of  a 
friend  whom  I  love. 

Mr.  Williams  was  considerably  emaciated; 
hie  body  much  blistered  arid  parched  by  the 
sun,  and  his,  as  well  as  the  rest  of  our  legs  and 
feet,  were  much  swollen,  occasioned  by  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  and  the  irritation  by  thumping  upon 
the  almost  bare  bones  of  the  camel,  f  can  hard- 
ly, at  tiiis  time,  suppress  the  anguish  I  feel  in  re- 
membering this,  which  was  the  last  interview  ! 
ever  had  with  this  worthy  man  and  good  sea- 
man. He  had  lost  his  fortitude  by  his  misery ; 
and  despaired  of  life.  He  mentioned  his  family 
in  the  most  affectionate  manner  ;  and  continued 
to  converse  upon  this  interesting  subject,  until 
overwhelming  grief  forbade  farther  utterance. 
Although  this  was  the  last  time  I  saw  Mr.  Wil- 

H2 


90  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

Hams,  I  learned  some  time  after,  by  Barrett, 
whom  I  saw  at  a  fish  place  near  Cape  Mirik,  that 
he  had  regained  his  health  and  flesh ;  was  liv- 
ing better  ;  had  a  very  good  man  for  a  master, 
who  was  also  his  (Barrett's)  master;  and  I  con- 
sole myself,  and  I  think  his  friends  may  also  con- 
sole themselves  with  the  hope,  that  he  may  once 
more  see  his  native  country,  and  be  blessed  with 
ihe  society  of  his  friends. 

As  to  Barrett,  he  was  at  this  time  apparently 
less  miserable  than  Mr.  Williams.  I  took  some 
fire  from  this  tent,  and  returned  to  my  masters. 
My  pork  still  held  out,  as  my  Mahometan  master 
would  permit  me  to  eat  but  little  of  it  at  a  time: 
and,  thanks  to  his  Mussulman  faith,  would  eat 
none  himself. 

On  the  15th  and  16th  we  prosecuted  our  jour- 
ney at  a  moderate  rate.  The  general  view  of 
this  part  of  the  Zahara  desert  is  a  boundless 
plain  terminated  by  the  horizon,  although  in  tra- 
velling over  it,  the  traveller  meets  with  genily 
rising  sand  hills,  and  shallow  vailies.  Some- 
times he  sees  a  rock  from  which  large  pieces 
have  fallen,  in  a  very  irregular  shape,  there 
seeming  to  be  no  seams  or  grain  to  this  stone 
like  most  of  the  large  bodies  of  rocks  in  New- 
England,  These  rocks  are  mostly  covered  with 
a  whitish  moss,  similar  to  what  is  frequently 
seen  upon  the  rocks  in  the  District  of  Maine. 
This  is  sometimes  eat  by  camels  when  no- 
thing else  can  be  found.  We  occasionally  met 
with  clusters  of  tents,  and  some  standing  singl*. 
Many  of  the  Arabs  have  muskets,  for  which 
*Wy  have  ihe  highest  admiration;    seeming  to 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  9] 

esteem  them  next  to  their  holy  beads.      The 
one  they  think  will  secure  to  them  the  favor 
of  their  prophet,  and  with  the  other  they  hope 
lo  procure  or  intimidate  slaves,  as  they  frequent- 
ly took  deliberate  aim  at  my  breast,  which  1 
as  often  laid   open,  telling  them  to  fire  ;    being 
then  almost  indifferent,  whether  J  was  laid  dead 
upon  the  desert,  food   for  wild  beasts,  or  com- 
pelled to  traverse  with  men  as  wild  and  as  fero- 
cious as  the  tigers  or  leopards  that  prowl  over 
them  also.     They  often  put  these  muskets  into 
my  hands,  asking  me  whether  they  wereFransak 
or  Inglisis.     I  sometimes  saw  valuable  double- 
barrelled  muskets,  which  they  probably  either 
procured  from  the  European  settlement  upon 
the  Senegal,  or  took  from  a  black  slave,  which 
perhaps  he  obtained  in  exchange  for  one  of  hit 
countrymen.     These  Africans,  of  every  name 
and  feature  and  complexion,  take  delight  in  en- 
slaving each  other;  and  although  the  slave  trade, 
carried  on  by  Christian  merchants,  on  the  coast 
of  Africa,   excites  the  just  indignation  of  the 
Christian  world,  yet  it  can  hardly  be  expected 
that  an  American,  who  has  for  months  and  years 
been  enslaved  by  them,  can  feel  so  much  com- 
passion towards  a  slave  here  as  those  do,  who 
have  always  enjoyed  the  blessings  of  humanity 
and  liberty. 

A  description  of  the  male  wandering  Arabs  is: 
they  are  six  feet  in  height  generally;  remarka- 
bly straight ;  large-boned  ;  have  very  black,  pe- 
netrating eyes;  black  hair,  until  age  makes  it 
grey,  but  of  different  qualities  ;  some  being  soft 
and  straight,  and  some  coarse  and  bushy.    They 


92  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

have  high  cheek  bones ;  noses  that  incline  more 
to  the  aquiline  than  Roman ;  thin  lips  ;  beauti- 
ful white  teeth,  and  very  regular;  thick,  black 
beards  when  in  middle  life,  which  hang  down  to 
the  breast,  increasing  in  length  as  they  advance 
in  years,  which  then  become  almost  entirely 
white.  When  old,  and  some  of  them  must  be 
very  aged,  they  have  a  gravity  and  solemnity  of 
appearance  which  is  seldom  seen  in  Americans. 
The  features  of  the  men,  unless  when  distorted 
by  anger,  or  the  prospect  of  plunder,  are  regu- 
lar, and  often  display  some  marks  that  would 
induce  a  stranger  to  think  that  they  belonged  to 
the  human  family. 

I  would  gladly  omit  a  description  of  the  fe- 
male wandering  Arabs  ;  but  it  will  leave  a  chasm 
in  the  description  of  the  natural  curiosities  of 
this  country.  They  are  somewhat  higher  in 
stature  than  the  American  women,  and,  like  the 
Arab  men,  remarkably  straight  when  young. 
Their  cheek  bones  are  high ;  their  eyes  and 
hair  similar  to  the  men.  Their  teeth  are  also 
white ;  but  the  two  eye-teeth  often  turn  out  of 
the  mouth  like  a  tush.  They  endeavour  to  make 
them  project  as  far  as  possible,  to  furnish  a  rest- 
ing place  for  the  upper  lip  ;  and  they  constantly 
stand,  like  two  faithful  centinels,  to  protect  it 
from  an  assault  from  the  under  one.  They  ge- 
nerally carry  their  young  upon  their  backs  ;  and 
their  breasts,  from  constant  exposure,  and  hav- 
ing no  stays  to  support  them,  become  relaxed, 
and  hang  down  to  such  a  length,  that  they  can 
furnish  the  child  upon  their  backs  with  food 
from  these  accommodating  reservoirs,  by  thrust- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  93 

ing  them  under  their  arms ;  the  child,  at  the 
same  time,  hangs  quartering  upon  the  mother's 
back,  and  grabs  them,  one  at  a  time,  to  draw 
therefrom  the  food  they  furnish  it.  Among  the 
young  women,  however,  are  many  of  very  regu- 
lar and  interesting  features.  They  generally 
have  very  long  hair,  which  they  braid  behind, 
and  turn  up  to  the  back  part  of  the  head,  and 
confine  with  a  kind  of  hoop  placed  upon  the 
crown  of  the  head,  giving  the  back  part  of  tiie 
head  an  elevation  considerably  above  the  fore- 
head. Upon  the  forehead  and  temples  are  a 
number  of  small  braids  of  hair,  to  which  is  fas- 
tened a  great  variety  of  the  most  beautiful  shells; 
and  sometimes  large  rings,  made  of  white  stone 
Over  the  whole  of  this  apparatus  is  thrown  a 
piece  of  blue  cotton  cloth,  as  a  tu.ban,  conceal- 
ing the  whole  head  and  face,  excepting  the  fore- 
head, the  eyes,  cheek  bones,  and  nose ;  the  va- 
riety of  shells  hanging  around  the  edge  of  it. 
They  also  ornament  their  wrists  and  ancles, with 
strings  of  black  beads,  and  sometimes  of  small 
shells.  Their  covering  is  generally  a  single 
blanket  or  skin  of  different  lengths,  and  put  on 
in  different  ways,  depending  upon  the  wealth, 
the  whim,  or  the  necessity  of  the  wearer. 

During  these  two  days  we  were  penetrating 
easterly  into  the  interior.  The  leflection,  that 
I  was  departing  farther  and  farther  from  ever) 
trace  of  civilization,  imparted  feelings  of  the  most 
gloomy  kind.  We,  however,  travelled  moder- 
ately ;  advancing,  perhaps,  not  more  than  sixty 
miles.  I  saw  none  of  my  shipmates,  nor  any 
other  unfortunate  slave. 


94  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

September  17th. — We  continued  to  travel  in 
an  easterly  direction.     I  was  reminded  of  my 
native  land,  and  of  the  abundance  of  her  bless- 
ings, by  occasionally  partaking  of  a  little  slice 
of  pork  which  was  there  produced.     It  was  a 
real  comfort,  notwithstanding  it  compelled  me 
to  draw  a  most  disheartening  parallel  between 
my  former  situation,  and  the  dismal  prospects 
that  then  surrounded  me.     My  master's  water 
began  to  grow  short ;  and  although  I  was  parch 
ed  without  by  the  burning  sun,  and  within  by 
dreadful  thirst,  I  could  not,  by  the  most  humble 
and  urgent  entreaties,  move  the  obdurate  heart 
of  my  master  to  afford  me  a  drop.     Amidst  the 
most  melancholy  reflections,  I  recognized  Mr. 
Savage  in  company  with  two  Arabs.     This  was 
the  first  time  I  had  seen  him  since  the  com- 
mencement of  our  slavery.     When  I  first  saw 
him,  he  was  in  my  rear.     I  slackened  my  walk, 
and  he  overtook  me.     My  master's  camels  were 
travelling  at  a  quick  rate,  which  shortened  my 
interview  with  him.     He  said  he  had  neither 
seen  or  ate  any  food  but  milk  and  water,  and 
that  in  very  small  qrantities,  since  we  first  were 
separated.     I  lamented  that  I  had  not  the  small 
remains  of  my  pork  to  divide  with  him,  my  mas- 
ter never  suffering  me  to  carry  it  myself.     I  has- 
tened with  all  my  power  to  overtake  the  camels. 
The   country   had    become   more    barren    and 
sandy,  and  the  heat  of  the  sun  increased.     We 
at  length  found  a  few  thorn  bushes,  which  is  the 
only  tavern  an  Arab  ever  finds,  and  we  put  up. 

18th. — Having  found  this  place  of  refresh- 
ment, my  master  and  his  retinue  were  deter- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  95 

mined,  I  suppose,  to  eat  it  out  before  he  quitted: 
and  during  the  whole  of  this  day,  we  laid  by. 

19th. — For  the  four  past  nights,  we  had  not 
pitched  the  tent ;  and  sleeping  upon  the  sand 
in  the  open  air,  I  found  myself  every  morning 
moistened  with  the  heavy  dews,  and  almost  stif- 
fened by  the  chilly  air.  It  can  easily  be  ima- 
gined what  would  be  the  sensations  of  a  person, 
who,  for  a  number  of  days,  had  been  exposed 
to  a  scalding  sun,  and  blistered  with  its  rays ; 
deprived  almostwholly  of  food  and  water;  hunger 
gnawing  him  within,  and  the  heated  sand  irritating 
his  blistered  body,  and  the  dews  and  cold  chills 
operating  upon  him  at  the  same  time.  We  start- 
ed early  this  morning  at  a  moderate  rate,  and 
continued  in  an  eastern  course.  At  about  1 1 
o'clock,  we  came  to  ascending  ground ;  and  the 
camels  were  halted  while  my  master,  having  been 
joined  by  some  other  natives,  went  forward  to 
make  discoveries.  The  camels  browsed;  the 
women  laid  down  to  enjoy  the  sand  beneath, 
and  the  sun  above,  and  I  wandered  off  to  a  small 
bush  to  enjoy  a  little  shade,  and,  what  my  debi- 
litated and  fatigued  body  greatly  needed,  a  lit- 
tle rest.  I  fell  into  a  kind  of  broken  slumber 
and  continued  here,  "  twixt  wake  and  sleep," 
until  my  master  returned.  I  then  discovered,  to 
my  very  great  joy,  that  they  had  unloaded  the 
camels,  and  seemed  to  be  making  preparations 
to  pitch  the  tent.  I  saw  a  number  of  other  tents 
at  no  great  distance,  and  again  fell  into  a  sleep. 
1  slept  till  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  and  was 
then  awakened  ;  not  by  the  hoarse  and  menac- 
ing voice  of  3  barbarian,  but  by  the  mild,  and 


96  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL, 

cheering  accents  of  a  friend.  It  was  Mr.  Savage- 
To  see  him  once  more  was  a  consolation  that 
made  me,  for  a  moment,  forget  my  misery ;  it 
was  doifhly  consolatory  to  see  my  friend  not 
wholly  destitute  of  resolution.  He  said  he  was 
in  a  state  of  absolute  starvation;  and  bestowed 
a  string  of  the  most  bitter  curses  upon  the  inhu- 
man wretches  who  were  starving  him  to  a  ske- 
leton. We  went  to  seek  something  from  our 
mother  earth,  and  found  a  few  snails,  which  Mr. 
Savage  took.  Notwithstanding  we  had  the  most 
vindictive  feelings  towards  our  tormentors,  we 
retired  to  our  shade;  and  after  bewailing  our 
hard  fate,  remembered  that  we  had  a  Father  in 
heaven,  to  whom  we  addressed  a  short  prayer, 
and  separated.  I  gathered  wood  for  the  night ; 
the  tent  was  pitched,  and  my  master  allowed  me 
a  little  of  my  pork,  a  small  quantity  of  water, 
and  a  less  quantity  of  milk  for  my  supper. 

20th. — This  was  a  day  of  repose.  After  hav- 
ing performed  the  usual  ceremony  of  worship- 
ping, which,  as  I  have  before  stated,  is  always 
the  first  service  of  the  day,  whether  on  a  jour- 
ney or  at  rest,  my  master  went  off,  as  usual,  about 
the  desert  or  to  the  neighbouring  tents.  The 
camels  were  sent  off  to  feed,  which  were  always 
watched  by  the  children,  this  service  never  hav- 
ing yet  been  enjoined  upon  me.  When  the  na- 
tives are  stationary,  the  men  are  constantly  vis- 
iting each  other  at  their  tents,  and  sometimes 
are  assembled  in  considerable  numbers  around 
them. 

It  ought  to  be  remarked  that  the  wandering 
Arabs  consist  of  many  distinct  tribes,  and  not  oi 


RGBBINS'  JOURNAL.  « 

one  general  one,  as  is  by  some  supposed.  The 
tribe  to  which  my  first  master  belonged  is  called 
Wiled  Lebdessebah.  From  what  I  afterwards 
learned,  when  in  possession  of  ether  tribes,  1 
found  that  this  was  considered  by  all,  as  the 
poorest,  most  ferocious,  and  contemptible  of  thr 
whole.  They  wander  farther  over  the  deserts, 
and  have  the  most  uncertain  and  casual  subsist- 
ence. This  accounts,  in  some  degree,  for  the 
total  want  of  method  or  object  which  is  percep 
liblc  among  them.  They  wander  from  day  to 
day,  seeming  neither  to  know  where  they  are 
going,  nor  what  they  are  going  for.  When  as- 
sembled together,  as  mentioned,  they  jabber  to- 
gether in  confusion,  for  a  while,  and  then  for  a 
while  gaze  at  each  other  with  unmeaning  va- 
cancy. The  women  at  the  same  time  saunter  ii< 
and  around  their  tents,  with  but  little  employ, 
although  all  the  labour  that  is  done,  is  done  by 
them.  While  our  brutal  masters  were  thus  em- 
ployed, Mr.  Savage  and  I,  their  wretched  slavevs, 
again  met  at  the  tent  of  his  master.  I  found 
him  alone,  pondering  upon  his  fate.  Upon  my 
approaching  him,  he  seemed  to  affect  a  degree 
of  cheerfulness.  We  thought  it  no  great  crime 
to  steal  a  little  water  from  a  goat  skin,  as  we 
were  nearly  choaked.  After  this,  Mr.  Savage 
recollected  that  early  in  the  morning  a  wen  or 
sore  had  been  cut  out  of  one  of  his  master's  ca- 
mels ;  and  we  concluded  to  cook  and  eat  this 
excrescence  that  was  taken  from  a  beast,  which 
itself  is  not  more  palatable  than  our  horses.  U 
lay  upon  the  sand  in  two  pieces,  and  upon  tak- 
ing it  up,  it  appeared  not  unlike  a  shad-spawn. 


08  ROBBIES1  JOURNAL. 

and  like  that,  was  very  tender.  A  little  fire  re- 
mained, mixed  with  sand,  into  which  we  put  our 
delicious  morsel,  and  before  we  had  half  roasted 
it,  we  saw  Mi.  Savage's  mistress  approaching, 
and  ate  it  down,  almost  at  a  mouthful,  knowing 
that  this  was  the  only  method  we  could  take  to 
secure  it  from  being  taken  from  us.  I  spent  a 
considerable  part  of  the  day  with  my  friend,  and 
towards  evening  returned  to  my  master's  tent. 


CHAP.  IX. 

Origin  of  wondering  Arabs — vegetables  mi  the  desert  of Zahara— 
gloomy  prospect — roots — snails — water  obtained — submissioii 
to  fate — last  meeting  and  last  interview  with  Capt.  Riley,  Mr. 
Savage,  Clarke, Burns,  and  Horace— situation  upon  the  desert 
■ — valley — meeting  with  Porter. 

FROM  reading  most  of  the  productions  of 
travellers,  and  all  the  narratives  and  journals  of 
slaves,  readers  have  their  indignation  excited 
io  the  highest  pitch  against  the  degraded  race 
of  beings  among  whom  the  author  of  this  Jour- 
nal was  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  enslaved.  Be- 
fore we  conclude,  however,  to  exclude  them 
from  the  human  family ;  before  we  denounce 
them  as  unworthy  of  the  least  consideration,  as 
a  part  of  human  beings  ;  the  candid  inquirer  af- 
ter truth  will  endeavour  to  trace  their  origin. 
He  will  try  to  learn  what  has  been  their  course 
of  life  ;  what  kind  of  government  they  have  lived 
under,  and  what  advantages  they  have  enjoyed. 
It  cannot  be  done  in  this  little  volume,  which 
professes  to  tell  what  they  are,  and  not  what 


KOBBIXS'  JOURNAL  99 

they  have  been.  It  may  be  briefly  remarked, 
however,  that  a  general  sentiment  prevails 
among  historians,  that  the  Arabs  are  the  de- 
scendants of  Ishmael.  In  recurring  to  an  au- 
thority which  will  not  be  doubted,  we  find  that 
Ishmael  was  the  son  of  Hagar,  the  handmaid  of 
Sarai,  Abi  am's  wife ;  that  Hagar  was  an  Egyp- 
tian; that  although  Sarai,  being  childless  her- 
self, consented  that  Abram  should  go  in  unto 
Hagar,  yet,  when  she  found  that  Hagar  had  con- 
ceived, her  wrath  was  kindled.  "  And  when  Sa- 
rai dealt  hardly  with  her,  she  jled  from  her  face.'1'' 
(Gen.  xvi.  ch.)  "  And  the  angel  of  the  Lord  said 
unto  her,  Behold,  thou  art  with  child,  and  shalt  bear 
a  son,  and  slw.lt  call  his  name  Ishmael,  because  the 
Lord  hath  heard  thy  affliction.  And  he  ivill  be  a  wild 
man;  his  hand  will  be  against  every  man,  and  every 
mail's  hand  against  him,"  &c.  In  chap.  xxv. 
of  Gen.  we  find  it  thus  recorded  : — "  And  these 
are  the  names  of  the  sons  of  Ishmael,  by  their  names, 
according  to  their  generations  :  The  first  born  of 
Ishmael,  J\rehujoth,  and  Kedar,  andAdbcel,  and  Mib- 
sam,  and  Mishma,  and  Dumah,  and  Massa,  Hadar, 
and  Tema,  and  Jetur,  and  Naphish,  and  Kedemah. 
These  are  the  sons  of  Ishmael,  and  these  are  their 
names,  by  their  towns,  and  by  their  castles ;  twelve 
princes,  according  to  their  nations.  And  these  are 
the  years  of  the  life  of  Ishmael,  an  hundred  and  thirty 
and  seven  years." 

Thus  it  appears,  that  these  miserable  crea- 
tures owe  their  origin  to  a  despised  mother. 
That  she  herself  was  a  wanderer,  and  her  son 
•4  a  wild  man."  The  common  chronology  makes 
ihis  fribe  (or  the  descendants  of  Ishmael)  399f> 


l{)0  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL 

years  of  age ;  and  the  best  historical  authorities 
called  Profane  History,  in  distinction  from  Sa- 
cred History, have  always  represented  them  as  a 
despised, abused,  degraded, and  wandering  race. 
They  are  now  called  wandering  Arabs;  and  from 
many  of  their  religious  rites,  they  seem  to  have 
blended  together  some  of  "  the  law  that  came 
by  Moses,"  with  many  of  the  ceremonies  intro- 
duced by  Mahommcd.  They  circumcise  their 
young  according  to  the  first — they  worship  the 
prophet  according  to  the  last.  Their  hands  or> 
literally  against  every  man*  and  every  mans  hand 
against  them — to  this  day. 

It  is  with  "  trembling  solicitude,"  that  the  au- 
thor of  this  Journal  has  attempted,  very  briefly. 
lo  trace  the  origin  of  a  race  of  beings,  whose  ex- 
istence and  modes  of  life,  excite  the  wonder  of 
an  inquiring  world.  It  was  not  done  so  much  to 
impart  information,  as  to  excite  inquiry.  It  was 
with  the  same  view  he  attempted  to  give  a  brief 
historical  account  of  Africa.  To  give  a  gloomy. 
monotonous  diary  of  human  sufferings  would 
•'  pall  upon  the  senses;"  he  has,  therefore,  en- 
deavored to  blend  with  it  such  accounts  of  this 
quarter  of  the  globe,  as  he  thought  tended  to  il- 
lustrate the  subject  of  his  Journal. 

It  was  now  the  21st  September.  We  had  no 
possible  means  to  determine  in  what  latitude  we 
were  situated;  but  the  sun  was  to  the  northward 
of  us,  and  of  course,  what  little  shadow  any  ob- 
ject made,  it  was  east  to  the  south.  The  heal 
was  excessive,  and  I  could  almost  have  envied 
'he  natives  a  tawny  skin,  that  was  made  to  en- 
dure! it.    To  me  it  was  distressing  in  the  extreme. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  101 

Although  some  of  them  seemed  to  pity  me  for 
the  blistered  and  parched  skin  that  slightly  ad- 
hered to  my  flesh ;  yet  their  pity  was  mingled 
with  contempt  that  Inglcsis  could  bear  no  more. 
They  glory  in  bearing  every  thing — hunger, 
thirst,  fatigue,  and  eVery  privation,  and  pro- 
nounce that  being  foorita,  or  good  for  nothing, 
who  cannot  endure  with  them.  My  masters  wa- 
ter was  nearly  expended,  and  in  the  morning  of 
this  day,  preparations  were  made  to  retrace  the 
dismal  desert  over  which  we  had  before  travel- 
led. We  started  early,  and  travelled  nearly  in 
a  north  east  direction.  The  sun  was  my  only 
compass  by  day,  and  the  north  star  by  night. 
We  travelled  rapidly  through  this  day,  and  I 
watched,  with  the  utmost  care,  to  see  Ifl  could 
recognize  any  object  I  saw  as  we  went  out ; 
but  I  could  not.  At  this  time,  almost  all  the  par- 
ties were  returning  towards  a  well,  and  we  were 
frequently  in  sight  of  different  tents,  some  near 
to  us,  and  some  at  such  a  distance,  that  the  size 
of  a  camel  seemed  to  be  diminished  to  that  of  a 
small  dog.  It  reminded  me  of  a  fleet  of  mer- 
chantmen,  recently  dispersed  by  a  storm,  and 
all  endeavoring  to  make  the  same  port.  No  sin- 
gular object  presented  itself,  nor  any  event  took 
place  upon  this  day,  worthy  of  description. 

On  the  22d,  travelled  same  course,  and  very 
rapidly.  Our  tents  were  this  night  pitched.  Af- 
ter I  had  assisted  in  making  the  usual  prepara- 
tions for  the  night,  I  cooked  my  remaining  piece 
of  pork,  and  as  I  was  just  about  to  enjoy  the  last 
piece  of  food  of  American  growth,  I  was  over- 
joyed to  see  my  master  enter  his  tent  with  Mr, 
^   12 


H)2  BOBBINS    JOURNAL 

Savage.  My  mistress  cooked  a  little  rice,  and 
handed  it  to  me.  Mr.  Savage  and  I  partook  of 
«ihis  pork  and  rice  together,  by  the  consent  of 
my  master  and  mistress.  I  must  confess  I  felt  a 
glow  of  gratitude  to  himfor  conducting  my  friend 
to  his  tent,  and  to  her,  fcfr  enabling  me  to  par- 
fake  of  what  we  then  deemed  a  rich  repast. 
They  familiarly  called  me  Robtins,  and  Mr.  Sa- 
vage they  called  Arr&ne.  It  is  always  the  first 
object  of  an  Arab  to  learn  the  name  of  a  stran- 
ger; and  as  they  rarely  have  but  one  name 
themselves,  they  take  either  the  given  or  sirname 
of  a  stranger,  as  best  suits  their  whim,  or  their 
organs  of  speech.  After  learning  the  name,  they 
ask  if  he  is  bono- good,  or  foonta,  which  has  al- 
ready been  explained.  Mr.  Savage  retired  to 
his  master's  tent,  and  I  to  my  bed  of  sand. 

The  next  day,  (23d)  we  prosecuted  our  jour- 
ney, in  company  with  eight' or  ten  different  fa- 
milies, making  a  large  party.  Mr.  Savage's  mas- 
ter bore  to  the  northward,  and  I  was  separated 
from  him.  We  travelled  fist ;  our  water  being 
all  expended,  and  we  had  no  liquid  or  food  ex- 
cept the  milk  of  the  camel,  and  that  bring  a  ve- 
ry small  quantity  for  the  number  of  the  family, 
and  my  pork  being  expended,  I  suffered  very 
severely.  Toward  night  we  stopped,  and  the 
women,  as  is  always  the  case,  sought  for  a  suit- 
able place  to  pitch  the  tent,  and  pitched  it.  At 
night  my  master  entered  the  tent.  I  inquire-! 
after  Mr.  Savage,  and  he  told  me  he  was  but  a 
little  way  to  the  northward,  and  that  I  should 
see  him  again  the  next  day. 

Upon  this  day,  (2ith)  the  camels  having  fed 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  10 J 

but  a  little  for  two  or  three  days,  and  the  family 
having  eat  nothing  but  a   very  little  milk,  we 
rested   after  travelling  a  short  distance.     The 
cafpejs  browsed  upon  bushes,  and  the  children 
went  in  pursuit  of  a  small  root,  sometimes  found 
in  the  shallow  rallies.     I  also  went  in  pursuit  of 
tfee  same  myself,  and   found  a  small  quantitv. 
This  root  resembles  a  small  white  onion,  and  is 
about  the  size  of  a  walnut.     The  stalk  or  stem 
of  it  is  five  or  six  inches  high,  growing  generally 
in  a  single  blade.     There  is  but  little  nutriment 
in  it.     1  also  found  a  vegetable  that  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  shepherd-sprout,  which  1  saw  the 
natives  eat,  and  ventured  to  eat  myself.     It  had 
a  bitter  taste.     For  two  hours  I  sought  for  these 
roots  and  sprouts,  and  ate  all       found,   which 
were  but  few ;   but  as  I  found  my  vegetable  that 
was  eatable  in   this  ocean  of  burning  sand.   1 
snatched  at  it  with  the  utmost  avidity,  and  de- 
voured it  with  the  keenest  appetite.     The  mem 
during  this  time,  had  gone  ahead.     I  was  order- 
ed to  drive  the  camels  L>  .   and  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey,  until  about  noon;  then 
rising  a  small  hill,  we  discovered  the  men  seat- 
ed in  a  small  valley.     They  made  the  usual  sign. 
of  waving  a  blanket,  for  us  to  approach,  with  the 
camels,  the  tents,  &c.  loaded  upon  them.     Upon 
our  arrival,  the  camels  were  made  to  kneel,  and 
were  unloaded  of  every  thing,  except  the  neces- 
sary implements  to   procure  water.     The  goa» 
skins  were  made  ready  to  contain  water  for  the 
family,  and  the  skin  basket,  or  watering  tub,  for 
the  camels  to  drink  in.     My  master  and  bis  two 
sisters  went  off  with  the  camels  and  their  accou- 


104  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

trements  in  search  of  a  well,  leaving  me  with 
the  rest  of  the  family.  I  now  went  forth  a  soli- 
tary wanderer,  famishing  with  hunger,  parching 
with  thirst,  and  almost  scorching  to  powder  with 
the  dreadful  heat  of  the  sun.  The  camels  were 
gone,  and  no  milk  could  be  had  until  their  re- 
turn ;  and  the  length  of  time  they  would  be  ab- 
sent was  unknown.  Death  seemed  to  stare  me 
in  the  face  ;  and  death,  too,  in  the  very  worst 
shape.  To  fall  in  the  field  of  battle— ^to  be 
drowned  in  the  ocean,  or  to  die  suddenly  with 
a  raging  epidemic,  is  not  half  so  terrible  to  the 
imagination,  as  that  of  a  lingering  death  by  star- 
vation. I  found  a  few  roots,  and  devoured  them, 
and  searching  among  the  thorn  bushes  I  once  in 
a  while  discovered  a  snail,  which  I  could  obtain 
in  no  way,  but  by  thrusting  my  naked  arms 
through  them,  and  by  this  I  was  lacerated  and 
torn  from  my  shoulders  to  my  fingers'  ends.  I 
brought  my  snails  to  the  tent,  cooked  some  of 
them  for  my  supper,  which  I  was  compelled  to 
divide  with  my  mistress  and  the  children,  hav- 
ing neither  milk  nor  water  for  themselves. 

On  the  25th,  I  started,  early  in  the  morning, 
in  pursuit  of  something  to  eat,  being  in  a  situa- 
tion that  would  make  me  readily  devour  any 
thing.  My  thirst  led  me  to  pursue  the  tracks  of 
the  camels,  as  they  had  gone  in  pursuit  of  wa- 
ter. I  found  nothing  but  a  few  of  the  roots  men- 
tioned, which  the  natives  call  taloes,  to  satiate 
my  hunger,  and  nothing  but  my  own  urine  to 
quench  my  thirst.  I  wandered  about  until  noon, 
found  a  few  snails,  and  returned,  roasting  and 
despairing  to  the  tent.      Toward  night  I  disco 


R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL  105 

vcred  my  master  approaching  with  tlie  camels 
loaded  with  three  goat  skins  of  water,  holding 
about  eight  gallons  each.  The  sight  of  camels, 
although  the  most  odious  and  deformed  looking 
beasts  in  nature,  had,  by  this  time,  become  as 
cheering  to  my  view  as  a  sumptuous  feast  is  to 
the  eye  of  an  epicure  ;  and  well  they  might;  for 
my  very  life  itself  depended  upon  them.  To  see 
them  coming  with  milk  in  their  bags,  and  water 
upon  their  backs,  produced  a  tumultuous  joy 
bordering  upon  delirium.  On  being  unloaded, 
my  bowl  (for  I  was  not  allowed  to  contaminate 
that  of  a  Mussulman)  was  filled  with  water,  hold- 
ing two  quarts.  This  1  drank  off  at  a  draught 
without  stopping,  and  almost  without  breathing. 
I  had  two  motives  for  this,  one  to  quench  my 
thirst,  the  other  to  induce  my  master  to  give  me 
more— my  thirst  was  partially  quenched,  but  no 
more  water  was  to  be  had.  I  looked  in  vain 
among  the  Ishmaelitish  daughters  to  find  a  ten- 
der hearted  damsel,  like  Rebekah,  who  bade 
the  servant  of  Abraham  to  drink,  saving,  "  I  will 
give  thy  camels  drink  also." 

I  then  proceeded  to  cook  the  few  snails  I  had 
gathered  in  the  gloomy  morning  that  precede,* 
this  evening.  This  1  did  by  pouring  them  into 
the  sand  at  the  bottom  of  the  tire-hole,  after  hav- 
ing scraped  away  the  coals,  then  covering  them 
with  hot  sand,  and  building  a  fire  upon  the  top. 
they  were  roasted  in  fifteen  minutes.  These  ! 
ate  after  my  master  had  examined  them,  and  fell 
asleep  about  sun  set.  I  became  very  much  dis- 
tressed,  probably  from  the  roots,  vegetables,  and 
snails  I  had  been  driven  to  live  upon  for  some 


106  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

days  past,  and  drinking  too  much  water  at  once. 
My  mistress,  having  warmed  a  little  milk  with 
heated  stones,  presented  it  to  me,  which  I  drank, 
and  found  much  relief.  It  had  now  got  to  be  10 
o'clock  at  night,  as  I  judged  from  the  stars,  when 
my  master  called  me  up,  and  asked  me  if  I  wish- 
ed to  go  and  see  Arrone,  (Mr.  Savage.)  I  answer- 
ed yes.  He  took  me  on  the  camel,  and  started 
off  at  a  long  trot  to  the  northward.  Being  naked, 
excepting  my  shortened  trowsers,  the  cold  air  was 
very  painful :  but  as  I  knew  my  master,  if  he  was 
so  inclined,  could  afford  me  no  relief,  I  made  no 
complaint.  We  rode  till  one  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  The  camel  was  then  permitted  to  feed 
upon  the  diminutive  shrubs,  and  I  to  sleep  naked 
upon  the  sand.  After  sleeping  about  two  hours, 
I  was  again  mounted  on  the  camel.  I  began  to 
conjecture  that  my  master  was  about  to  offer  me 
for  sale,  and  my  conjectures  soon  became  reality. 
September  26. — By  my  string,  I  found  I  had 
been  eighteen  days  a  slave  to  my  master  Ganu3, 
and  I  must  confess  I  did  not  then  wish  to  run  the 
risque  of  exchanging  him  for  any  other  descend- 
ant of  Ishmael  that  I  had  yet  seen.  But  it  was 
fiot  for  a  slave  to  choose,  to  wish,  or  repine.  I 
affected  a  total  unconcern ;  and  although  I  had 
but  little  of  the  lamb  in  my  feelings  toward  the 
Arabs,  I  was  determined  to  appear  to  be  "  pleased 
to  the  last;"  and  although  I  could  not  in  Zahara 
"  crop  the  flowery  food,"  I  had  almost  got  my 
mind  prepared  "  to  lick  the  hand  just  rais'd  to 
shed  my  blood."  Hard  indeed  was  this  mental 
submission  to  a  free-born  son  of  New-England  ; 
hard  as  the  pain  I  endured  in  my  body  ;■— but  I 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  107 

thought  the  philosophical  advice  of  Hudibras 
to  Ralpho  was  applicable  to  me  at  this  time : 

"  Ne'er  be  so  dully  desperate 

To  join  against  yourself  with  fate.'''' 

At  about  sun-rise  I  discovered  a  number  of  tents 
ahead,  and  as  we  came  to  one,  I  saw  some  ca- 
mel's meat.  Delicious  food !  not  much  worse 
than  that  of  an  old  horse ;  how  I  longed  to  de- 
vour it ;  but  like  Tantalus  in  the  water,  I  was 
only  aggravated  by  the  sight  of  it,  as  I  could  not 
enjoy  it.  My  master,  however,  begged  some 
boiled  blood  for  me,  which  I  put  into  my  hat,  not 
knowing  what  it  was.  He  bade  me  cool,  i.  e.  eat. 
We  again  started,  and  at  about  eight  o'clock 
came  to  a  valley  where  we  saw  a  number  of  ca- 
mels crossing  and  passing  over  a  small  sand  hill. 
We  followed  them ;  and  on  reaching  another 
valley,  I  saw  numerous  tents.  It  looked  like  a 
great  market  for  the  sale  of  the  sons  of  sorrow. 
On  seeing  an  old  woman,  my  master  asked  where 
the  IceUup  en-sahrau  {Christian  dogs)  were.  She 
pointed  to  a  hill  to  the  eastward,  and  upon  draw- 
ing near  to  it  I  saw  the  smoke  of  a  fire,  where 
they  had  been  cooking  camel's  meat.  I  ran  up 
to  it,  hoping  either  by  begging,  or  stealing,  to 
obtain  a  bite  of  it ;  but  1  forgot  my  hunger,  my 
thirst,  my  misery,  and  almost  myself,  upon  dis- 
covering Capt.  Riley,  Mr.  Savage, Clarke,  Burns, 
and  Horace.  Something  whispered  to  me  that 
my  deliverance  was  near,  that  the  day  of  my  re- 
demption had  come.  After  exchanging  the  com- 
mon tokens  of  affection,  with  my  beloved  ship- 
mates, I  learned  from  them,  that  they  had  been 
bought.     Capt,  Riley  pointed  to  two  Arabs,  te\- 


108  •  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ling  me  that  they  had  bought  him,  and  those  thai, 
were  with  him,  and  had  agreed  to  carry  them  to 
the  Sultan,  (the  Arabs  call  the  emperor  of  Mo- 
rocco Sooltaun)  where  their  redemption  would 
be  certain.  He  said  Hogan,  my  friend,  was  with 
them  the  day  before,  and  that  he  supposed  the 
purchasers  were  waiting  to  take  him  also  ;  and 
that  if  they  did  not,  he  hoped  to  persuade  them 
to  purchase  me.  My  heart  was  immediately  swol- 
len with  gratitude  to  my  captain  for  his  solici- 
tude and  kindness  to  me,  as  miserable  a  son  of 
Adam  as  walked  upon  the  footstool  of  Deity.,  1 
exchanged  a  little  of  my  boiled  blood  with  Ho- 
race, for  a  piece  of  gristly  camel's  meat,  which 
I  swallowed  almost  whole.  At  a  small  distance 
off,  I  saw  my  master  talking  very  earnestly  with 
the  two  Arabs  who  had  purchased  all  my  ship- 
mates just  named.  Hope  lightened  my  heart 
and  almost  deprived  me  of  reason.  I  almost  saw 
my  own  country  ;  I  almost  felt  the  embraces  of 
my  friends  ;  although  environed  by  the  desert 
of  Zahara,  and  held  in  bondage  by  barbarians. 
How  soon  was  I  dashed  from  the  highest  eleva- 
tion of  hope,  to  the  lowest  dejection  of  despair! 
The  two  Arabs  hastily  took  my  shipmates  one 
way,  and  my  master  carried  me  off  another. 
Capt.  Riley  tried  to  console  me ;  but  why 
"  preach  patience  to  those  who  wring  under  a 
load  of  sorrow  ?"  My  brother  sailors  will  ex- 
cuse me,  when  I  tell  them  that  I  burst  into  tears. 
I  converted  my  eyes  into  two  pumps,  and  in  this 
way  I  was  partially  relieved  from  the  bilge-water 
of  sorrow  which  was  about  sinking  my  shattered 
vessel  for  ever.     I  considered  my  shipmates  as 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  10» 

sale,  and  in  the  event  it  proved  to  be  so.  While 
I  rejoiced  at  their  good  fortune,  I  grieved,  in  the 
very  depths  of  sorrow,  at  my  own  calamities,  J 
might  with  the  utmost  propriety,  exclaim,  "  Hoio 
fortune  deceives!  I  had  pleasure  in  tow''' — but  now  I 
had  it  no  longer.  "  My  life,  steered  by  misery's 
chart'1'' — I  was  compelled  to  continue  a  captive 
among  the  most  unfeeling,  debased,  and  degrad- 
ed race  of  creatures  on  earth,  the  tribe,  as  \ 
have  before  mentioned,  which  now  held  me  a 
slave,  being  so. 

I  separated  from  my  shipmates  about  nine 
o'clock,  A.  M.  and  went  with  my  master  in  pur- 
suit of  his  tent.  The  camel,  being  a  male,  I  had 
no  milk  ;  the  goat  skins  being  at  the  tent,  I  had 
no  water  ;  and  subsisted  through  the  day  upon 
my  camel's  blood,  which  I  carried  in  my  hat,  ex- 
posing  my  bare  head  to  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The 
tent  was  removed,  and  we  did  not  overtake  it 
till  dark,  and  not  having  it  pitched  that  night,  1 
slept  in  the  open  chilly  air. 

Upon  the  27th,  we  travelled  E.  S.  E.  as  near 
as  1  could  judge.  By  this  time  I  had  become 
acquainted  with  the  meaning  of  some  few  of  the 
words  of  the  Arabs;  and  by  means  of  these  and 
signs,  I  asked  my  mistress  why  I  was  not  sold  ? 
Why  they  did  not  travel  toward  Morocco  ?  And 
many  other  questions.  Her  answer  was,  that 
they  could  not  go  until  the  rainy  season  sat  in, 
which  commences  generally  in  January,  or,  at 
any  rate,  it  did  this  year.  She  said  they  could 
•iot  support  their  camels  in  the  dry  season,  but 
still  encouraged  me  with  the  hope  that  1  should, 
some  time  or  other,  reach  that  empire.     We 

K 


110  ROBBINS1  JOURNAL. 

travelled,  I  conclude,  in  the  course  mentioned 
about  fifteen  miles,  and  then  shifted  it  to  about 
N.  E.      The  country  became  more  hilly  than  J 
had  before  seen  it ;  and  after  passing  a  number 
of  small  hills,  we  ascended  one  of  considerable 
height.     To  the  N.  E.  of  it,  I  saw  the  largest  and 
deepest  valley  I  had  before  seen  in  this  country. 
It  ran  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  and  might  have  been 
eight  or  ten  miles  in  length  and  two  miles  in 
width.     I  regret  exceedingly   that  I  cannot  in- 
form my   readers  of  the  particular  situation  of 
the  country  I  passed  ;  but  as  I  then  had  no  means 
to  ascertain  it,  no  maps,  charts,  or  instruments, 
and  could  derive  no  information  from  the  illiter- 
ate Arabs,  I  will  not  attempt  it.     I  could  judge 
of  the  latitude  only  from  the  situation  of  the  sun. 
and  as  to  longitude,  I  could  judge  of  it  from  no- 
thing at  all.     We  must  now  have  been  near  the 
tropic  of  cancer,  it  being  September,  and  the 
rays  of  the  sun  being  nearly  vertical.     We  en- 
tered this  valley  at  the  S.  W.  end  of  it,  and  pass- 
ed to  the  S.  E.  side  of  it,  upon  which  I  noticed  a 
number  of  very  deep  gullies,  on  almost  the  whole 
length  of  the  hill,  which  must  have  been  occa- 
sioned by  heavy  rains.     The  surface  in  the  val- 
ley was  composed  of  sand,  gravel,  and  small 
round  stones,  which  were  washed  from  the  hill. 
the  gullies  having  the  same  kind  upon  their  sides. 
In  one  of  these  gullies,  we  saw  two  or  three 
tents.     The  air  was  cooler  here  than  it  is  gene- 
rally found  to  be,  and  I  even  imagined  I  saw 
some  appearance  of  comfort,  and  no  one  could 
need  it  more:  for  having  been  deprived  of  all 
my  remaining  hopes  in  the  morning,  it  appeared 


BOBBINS1  JOURNAL.  HI 

to  me  through  the  whole  day  that  it  must  have 
been  my  last,  for  "  hope  was  deferred,"  and  "  my 
whole  heart  was  sick."  They  left  the  camels 
with  me,  and  the  whole  family  went  to  the  tents. 
It  is  an  universal  custom  among  Arabs,  when 
the  master  of  one  tent  or  any  of  his  family  visits 
another,  to  offer  them  whatever  they  have  to  eat 
or  drink ;  the  whole  bill  of  fare,  however,  con- 
sisting of  earners  meat,  milk,  and  water.  "I  saw 
my  master  and  family  drinking  with  them,  and 
my  thirst  '*  almost  persuaded  me"  to  wish  I  was 
a  Mahometan  that  I  might  have  partaken  with 
them.  I  was  then  ordered  by  signs,  to  drive  the 
camels  to  the  tents,  and  as  I  was  approaching 
one,  was  met  by  a  young  Arab,  who  told  me  that 
there  was  an  en-sahrau  (Christian)  in  one  of  the 
tents.  The  name  of  en-sahrau  was  as  dear  to  me 
as  was  the  name  of  uncle  Toby  to  a  distressed 
soldier.  I  had  not  the  most  distant  conception 
to  what  Christian  nation  he  might  belong,  but  it 
was  enough  to  console  me,  that  he  was  not  a 
degenerate  Mussulman.  He  was  one  of  my 
shipmates — it  was  Porter!  I  came  near  rejoicing 
at  his  slavery,  it  gave  me  such  joy  to  see  him. 
With  this  worthy  fellow,  I  had  been  particularly 
intimate  ;  and  I  think  my  shipmates  will  all  say 
that  we  went  hand  in  hand  in  performing  our  du- 
ty like  faithful  seamen.  He  appeared  less  de- 
jected than  many  of  my  shipmates  whom  I  had 
before  seen.  His  robust  body  and  stout  heart 
enabled  him  to  bear  any  thing  within  the  com- 
pass of  human  endurance.  He  had  on  the  rem- 
nants of  an  old  coat,  and  his  trowsers  down  to 
his  knees,  the  rest  of  them,  like  mine,  having 


112  R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL. 

been  declared  foonta.  I  informed  him  of  the 
good  fortune  ofCapt.  Riley,  Mr.  Savage,  Clarke, 
Burns,  and  Horace ;  and  the  near  fortune  of  Ho- 
gan.  He  then  told  me  that  Hogan  and  Dick 
were  in  the  valley  above,  he  having  seen  them  the 
lay  before.  My  master  hailed,  Robbinis!  and  1 
was  obliged  to  end  my  interview,  although  it  was 
the  first  I  had  enjoyed  with  this  good  friend  since 
we  were  enslaved.  We  passed  to  the  top  of  the 
hill  through  one  of  the  gullies,  and  travelled  up- 
on the  top  of  it  to  near  the  upper  end  of  the  val- 
ley. Then  discovering  a  number  of  tents,  in  the 
yalley  below,  we  descended  through  another  dif- 
ficult gully,  I  conclude  as  many  as  three  hundred 
feet,  and  reached  them.  Here  we  pitched  our 
tents  in  sight  of,  perhaps,  thirty  or  forty  others. 
The  camels  were  put  to  feed  in  the  valley,  and 
I  furnished  the  necessary  fuel  for  the  night.  My 
fatigue  was  excessive.  After  eating  a  little  of 
my  blood,  ^taken  from  the  camel,)  and  having  a 
scanty  por  ion  of  milk  divided  out  to  me,  I  re- 
tired to  a  corner  of  the  tent,  and  forgot  myself 
and  my  miseries,  in  as  sound  a  night's  rest  as 
ever  a  sailor  enjoyed. 

CHAP.  X. 

Sympathy — Hogan — his  situation  and  feelings— received  at  the 
tent  of  drama — my  mistress— fictitious  ceremony — power  of  the 
female  Arabs— gloomy  valley — Dick — misery  of  Slack  Afri- 
cans— Messrs.  Wilbcrforcc  and  Clarkson— American  flu g  upon 

Zahara  desert.  # 

September  28th,  1815. 

AS  we  progress  in  our  volume,  we  feel  a  great 
degree  of  solicitude  lest  the  detail  of  individual 
suffering  should  become  tedious  to  our  readers. 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  113 

The  world  more  readily  sympathizes  with  the 
joyous  than  the  sorrowing.  The  joys  of  the  au- 
thor have  been  few,  his  sorrows  have  been  nu« 
merous ;  but  he  will  endeavour  to  blend  with 
the  narration  of  them,  such  delineations  of  the 
country  and  descriptions  of  the  peculiar  man- 
ners, customs,  and  habits  of  the  natives  of  Afri- 
ca, as  have  fallen  under  his  immediate  observa- 
tions, or  been  derived  from  the  most  authentic- 
sources. 

This  day  we  lay  by.  After  the  morning  ser- 
vice was  performed,  and  the  camels  milked,  (the 
last  service  invariably  following  the  firs?,)  the  ca- 
mels were  sent  with  the  boy  to  feed  upon  bush- 
es ;  my  master  went  to  visit  his  neighbours  ;  the 
female  children  went  in  pursuit  of  roots  and 
herbs  ;  the  women  lounged  in  the  tents  ;  and  I 
laid  down  under' one  to  reflect  or  to  sleep,  just 
as  reflection  came  to  my  sorrow,  or  sleep  to  my 
relief.  After  remaining  here  until  about  eleven 
o'clock,  I  saw  my  half-starved  friend  Hogan, 
lurking  around  the  tents;  and,  judging  from  the 
appearance  of  his  mouth,  and  the  rest  of  his  di- 
minished body,  I  concluded  that  he  had  not 
"  fared  sumptuously  every. day"  since  we  part- 
ed. This  was  the  first  time  1  had  seen  him  since 
I  parted  with  him  on  the  8th  at  the  well.  1 
could  hardly  conceive  that  this  sterling  sailor, 
who  first  ventured  to  come  from  the  wreck  to  the 
shore  upon  the  hawser  at  Cape  Bajador,  on  the 
28th  of  the  preceding  month,  could  so  soon  have 
lost  his  firmness  and  his  hope.  He  appeared 
depressed,  melancholy,  and  hopeless.  He  en- 
tered our  tent.     This  was  attended  with  consi 

K  2 


iI4  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

derable  difficulty,  as  my  mistress  at  first  refused 
him  admittance ;  but  upon  informing  her  as  well 
as  I  could,  that  he  was  almost  naked,  having 
nothing  but  a  small  skin  and  a  piece  of  sail  to 
wear,  and  almost  melting  in  the  sun,  she  gave 
him  admission.  We  sat  down  together.  Ho- 
sran's  master  was  the  first  Arab  that  assailed  us 

O 

near  Cape  Barbas,  where  we  first  landed.  Ho- 
gan  informed  me  that  his  sufferings  had  been 
too  much  for  a  Christian  to  bear  from  suchcurs- 
ed  barbarians  ;  that  he  had  not  been  permitted 
to  sleep  under  a  tent  since  he  was  enslaved ; 
that  he  had  been  almost  starved  ever  since  he 
had  been  among  them  ;  and  that  he  expected  to 
die  soon  unless  he  could  escape.  He  told  me 
that  the  two  Arabs  who  bought  Capt.  Riley, 
bought  him  next,  and  paid  for  him;  and  that  a 
dispute  arose  between  his  master  Mahomet,  and 
Porter's  master,  who  claimed  half  of  him,  and 
that  his  master  had  returned  the  price  paid  for 
him  (Hogan)  and  still  kept  him  as  a  slave.  Ma- 
homet and  Porters  master  continued  to  quarrel 
about  him  :  had  come  to  blows  upon  this  sub- 
ject; and  the  quarrel  was  not  yet  ended.  Hav- 
ing the  most  painful  feelings  upon  Hogan's  me- 
lancholy relation,  I  entreated  my  mistres^  to  per- 
mit me  to  give  him  some  of  my  camel's  blood,  to 
which  she,  with  some  reluctance,  consented,  and 
we  ate  the  whole  I  had  remaining,  which  was 
but  little,  relying  upon  the  mercy  of  my  tyrants 
for  my  future  support.  After  we  had  eaten  our 
Mood,  my  mistress,  whom  Hogan  though!  an 
angel  of  mercy  in  comparison  to  his,  gave  us  a 
little  milk  and  water.    I  did  not  altogether  agree 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  115 

with  him  about  the  angelic  qualities  of  my  mis- 
tress, knowing  that  my  master  had  more  of  the 
virtues  attributed  to  those  celestial  beings  than 
what  she  had.  I  inquired  of  Hogan  about  Dick. 
He  said  he  was  a  fellow-slave  with  him  to  Ma- 
homet, and  fared  much  better  as  to  living  than 
he  had ;  although  he  was  often  beaten  by  his 
master,  and  compelled  to  attend  camels  from 
day-light  till  dark.  Hogan  tarried  with  me  till 
towards  night,  and  we  agreed  to  go  next  day  to 
procure  something  to  eat,  either  by  stealing  from 
the  tents,  or  gathering  from  the  earth,  if  haply 
we  could  find  any  thing  to  steal  or  gather.  I  re- 
quested him  to  ask  Dick  to  come  and  join  us. 
but  he  said  Dick  would  not  be  permitted  to 
come.  He  went  home  ;  and  I  did  the  customa- 
ry duties  of  a  slave,  and  retired  to  all  the  rest  J 
could  enjoy  upon  sand. 

Upon  the  29th,  early  in  the  morning,  my  mas- 
ter and  his  family  went  out  before  the  tent  to 
worship,  and  took  me  with  them ;  having  for 
some  days  past  expressed  a  wish  that  I  should 
become  a  Mussulman,  and  no  longer  continue 
to  be  a  kcllup  en-sahrau.  I  knew  I  might  be  a 
witness,  and  even  a  performer  of  their  mode  of 
worship,  without  becoming  a  proselyte  to  their 
faith  ;  indeed,  I  was  compelled  to  go,  from  the 
fear  of  vengeance  if  I  refused.  They  were  ar- 
ranged upon  the  sand,  in  front  of  the  tent.  My 
master  Ganus  bade  me  follow  his  motions.  He 
kneeled  down,  and  washed  his  hands,  arms,  and 
face  in  the  sand.  I  did  the  same.  He  then  rose 
up,  facing  to  the  east,  and  loudly  exclaimed. 
••  Shcda  el  la  lah,  Hi  Allah — Sheda  Mahommcd— 


l\Q  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

JRahsool  Allah."  They  generally  add,  «  Hi  eah- 
rah  sullah — Hi  eahrah  sullah."  This  I  also  repeat- 
ed,  having  learned  the  pronunciation  of  it  be- 
fore, although  not  the  meaning.  They  then  cried 
aloud  "  Allah  HooakibarP  I  followed  them  in 
this  likewise.  They  then  fell  upon  their  knees, 
and,  upon  rising,  said  again,  "  Allah  Hooakibary 
I  continued  to  follow  their  example,  as  often  as 
they  repeated  it.  They  then  went  through  a 
catalogue  of  words,  which  I  could  not  under- 
stand, and  could  not  repeat.  They  concluded 
with  a  loud  voice,  "  Suite  Mulla;"  I  said  so  too. 
They  seemed  to  be  highly  pleased  with  my  ap- 
parent conversion  to  the  Mahometan  faith.  This 
was  the  first  time  I  ever  worshipped  in  the  man- 
ner of  a  Mahometan;  and,  lest  I  should  be 
brought  to  make  a  ceremony  of  worship  merely, 
I  declined,  as  long  as  I  remained  in  Africa,  to 
Suite  in  this  way  ;  telling  him  that  an  en-sahrau, 
or  Christian,  had  a  different  mode  of  praying. 

Soon  after  this  ceremony  (for  it  was  nothing 
else)  was  through,  Hogan  came  to  my  masters 
tent.  I  took  my  sack,  which  I  had  made  upon 
landing  from  the  boat,  and  hung  it  upon  my 
neck  to  put  snails  in,  if  we  should  find  any.  We 
passed  over  the  hill  lying  to  the  eastward  of  us 
into  an  adjoining  valley  where  we  found  a  few 
snails.  At  noon,  the  heat  became  so  intense, 
that  we  could  not  endure  it.  We  returned  to 
within  a  short  distance  of  my  master's  tent, 
where  we  cooked  what  few  we  had  gathered,  by 
some  fire  procured  from  a  tent  near  us.  My 
master  was  dissatisfied  that  I  did  not  bring  the 
snails  home,  and  divide  with  him  and  the  family 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  117 

Hogan  came  to  the  tent,  and  spent  part  of  the 
afternoon  with  me,  where  we  had  a  little  milk 
and  water  allowed  us,  and  toward  night  I  ac- 
companied him  to  his  master's  tent 

Upon  the  30th,  I  wandered  round  with  Ho- 
gan, as  I  did  the  day  before  gathering  snails  and 
bewailing  our  fate.  The  natives,  unless  engaged 
in  spinning  and  weaving,  which  is  but  seldom, 
are  listless,  inactive,  and  stupid.  They  have 
nothing  that  serves  for  pastime  or  amusement,  un- 
less it  can  be  called  recreation  for  females  to  comb 
arid  braid  each  other's  hair,  and  divest  it  of  the  ver- 
min that  generally  colonize  it.  They  do  this  and 
sleep  alternately.  The  men  visit  eachotheratthe 
tents,  apparently  without  object ;  although  when 
a  considerable  number  are  assembled  they  con- 
verse together  with  earnestness,  and  sometimes 
go  through  with  the  customary  worship.  When 
stationary,  the  men  repair  their  saddles,  goat- 
skins, and  watering  tubs.  The  women  have  the 
entire  control  of  the  tent ;  they  make  the  cloths 
for  it,  they  put  them  together,  they  pitch,  and 
strike  and  repair  it.  They  have  all  the  manage- 
ment of  what  may  be  called  domestic  economy  ; 
they  apportion  out  the  milk  and  the  water,  with 
the  accuracy  of  a  sergeant  when  making  out  ra- 
tions, among  the  master,  the  children  and  the 
slaves,  and  from  their  decision  upon  this  subject, 
there  is  no  appeal. 

October  1st. — Having  added  another  day  to 
the  calendar  of  my  captivity  by  making  another 
knot  in  my  string,  I  began  to  ponder  with  the 
most  gloomy  anticipations  upon  my  future  fate. 
As  I  have  already  mentioned,  my  pork  was  ex- 


118  ROBBINS'  JOUSNAL.  - 

pended ;  the  country  where  we  were  now  situ- 
ated was  uncommonly  barren  even  for  the  de- 
sert ;  my  master's  camels  afforded  but  a  very 
small  quantity  of  milk,  and  one  of  them  had  be- 
come entirely  dry.  The  little  portion  allowed 
me  was  hardly  sufficient  to  sustain  life  ;  and  my 
flesh  began,  moderately,  to  waste  away.  To  see 
the  gradual,  although  certain,  approach  of  the 
king  of  terrors  by  the  slow  ravages  of  a  con- 
sumption is  indeed  gloomy ;  but,  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  health,  as  I  was  at  this  time,  and  with 
an  appetite  as  voracious  as  the  tigers  of  the  de- 
sert that  I  inhabited,  to  waste  away  and  go 
down  to  the  grave  for  the  want  of  food,  was  too 
much  for  the  small  portion  of  philosophy  impart- 
ed to  me,  to  endure  with  fortitude.  My  own 
forebodings  were  rendered  doubly  aggravating 
at  the  situation  of  my  shipmate  Hogan,  whose 
despair  was  as  raging  as  his  appetite.  He  call- 
ed again  this  day.  Having  but  little  encourage- 
ment to  seek  even  for  snails,  we  lurked  around 
the  tents  in  the  gloomy  valley,  which  seemed 
hke  the  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death.  We 
found  some  of  the  old  bones  of  a  camel  which 
had  first  been  scraped  by  the  Arabs,  next  by 
their  dogs,  and  the  remaining  part  fell  into  our 
hands.  We  gnawed  off  what  little  dry  gristle 
was  remaining,  in  doing  which,  I  almost  dislo- 
cated my  jaws,  and  very  much  injured  my  teeth. 
At  night  we  returned  to  our  tents. 

October  2d. — As  I  was  standing  near  my  mas- 
ter's tent,  I  saw  Dick  the  cook,  descending  from 
the  hill  where  he  had  been  placed  to  watch  ca- 
mels.   He  came  to  the  tent.     For  the  first  time. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  1 1  9 

I  saw  him  since  the  day  of  our  slavery.  He  was 
esteemed  by  the  crew  as  a  faithful,  active  cook, 
and  always  did  all  the  duty  assigned  him  with 
promptitude.  He  looked  pretty  hearty,  and  had 
better  clothing  than  Hogan.  We  had  been  to- 
gether but  a  few  minutes  before  he  was  hailed 
by  his  mistress  to  return.  Anxious  to  see  me 
longer  he  did  not  immediately  obey.  She  came 
after  him,  struck  him  on  the  head  with  her  claws, 
and  pulled  him  up  the  hill  to  the  camels.  His 
master  immediately  knocked  him  down,  and  be- 
gan beating  him  in  the  most  unmerciful  manner 
with  clubs.  The  poor  fellow  hallooed  and 
screamed  aloud.  Never  did  I  more  ardently 
pant  to  revenge  the  injury  of  a  shipmate.  Rea- 
dily would  I  have  become  one  of  a  body  of  Ame- 
rican seamen  that  would  number  not  more  than 
two  to  five  Arabs,  and  have  commenced  imme- 
diate war.  I  was  desperate,  but  knew  I  must  be 
humble,  and  see  my  shipmate  mauled  to  pumice. 
It  is  singular  that  the  negroes,  although  Africans 
like  the  Arabs,  should,  even  by  their  own  coun- 
trymen, although  of  a  different  tribe,  be  used 
with  such  barbarity.  This  miserable  race  of 
beings  seem  to  be  left  by  their  Creator  to  the 
cruelty  of  the  whole  human  race.  In  every 
clime,  unless,  indeed,  they  become  objects  of 
curiosity,  as  did  the  negro  in  Russia,  they  are 
beaten,  enslaved,  and  often  murdered.  What 
language,  then,  can  be  found  equal  to  the  grate- 
ful task  of  eulogizing  the  names  of  Wilberforce 
and  Clarkson,  who  have  devoted  their  whole 
lives  and  great  talents  to  the  endeavor  of  rescu- 
ing these  miserable  creatures  from  the  inhuma- 


120  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

nity  of  man  ?  And  what  language  is  adequate 
to  express  the  indignation  of  the  heart,  at  that 
portion  of  civilized  and  Christianized  man,  who 
continue  to  capture,  enslave,  and  murder  them? 
I  saw  no  more  of  poor  Dick  this  day,  nor  did 
I  ever  afterwards  see  him.  He  has  probably  be- 
come a  victim  to  the  merciless  Arabs  of  the  tribe 
of  Wiled  Lebdessebah.  1  feel  myself  bound, 
however,  to  say  that  my  master,  although  of  this 
degraded  and  cruel  tribe,  was  guilty  of  but  lit- 
tle inhumanity  to  me.  I  suffered  all  but  death 
to  be  sure  when  his  slave  ;  but  from  his  situa- 
tion, I  know  not  how  he  could  have  helped  it. 
He  was  a  grave,  thoughtful,  and  regular  man ; 
seldom  inflamed  with  passion,  and  often  bestow- 
ed favors  upon  me,  which  notwithstanding  my 
distress  when  with  him,  I  remember  with  grati- 
tude. While  I  hope  never  to  bear  an  injury 
with  mean  submission,  I  also  hope,  I  never  shall 
become  so  hardened  as  to  forget  a  favor.  My 
master  this  day  gave  me  a  square  piece  of  the 
colors  of  the  brig,  perhaps  a  yard  and  a  half 
square.  In  the  centre  of  it,  I  cut  a  hole  to  let 
my  head  through,  and  sewed  up  the  sides,  leav- 
ing arm-holes.  By  this,  my  body  was  considera- 
bly secured  from  the  sun.  This  was  probably 
the  first  American  flag  that  was  ever  hoisted  up- 
on the  deserts  of  Zahara.  My  mistress,  like  a 
true  Amazon,  determined  that  the  "  striped 
bunting"  should  not  be  monopolized  by  Ameri- 
can tars  every  where,  took  the  remainder  of  it,  and 
"  covered  herself  with  glory."  Toward  evening 
I  went  to  the  tent  of  Hogan's  master  to  shew  him 
my  new  uniform,  made  of  the  colors  under  which 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  .  12 J 

we  once  sailed  happily  together.  It  excited  feel- 
ings not  to  be  expressed,  or  repressed  ;  but  his 
gloom  made  almost  every  object  equally  indif- 
ferent to  him.  The  day  ended,  as  it  began,  in 
misery.  Hogan  told  me  that  Dick,  the  day  be 
fore,  offered  him  some  cooked  snails,  which  his 
master  would  not  suffer  him  (Hogan)  to  eat,  and 
that  he  expected  to  starve. 

CHAP.  XI. 

.i  shower — a  female  fashion — an  adventure — a  journey — dre$i 
of  a  wandering'  Arab — smoking — Gum  Arabic — slaying  a  ca  ■ 
mel — a  repast— Hogan — Arab  hospitality. 

October  3d,  1815. 
I  WENT  this  day  to  the  tent  of  Porters  mas- 
ter, about  seven  miles  distance,  and  found  him 
in  it.  After  tarrying  some  time,  Porter  and  I, 
together  with  his  master,  and  another  Arab,  each 
of  whom  had  a  musket,  went  up  the  valley  to  a  tent 
where  a  camel  had  been  killed.  The  muskets 
were  good  double-barrelled  pieces,  which  Por- 
ter and  1  carried.  When  we  arrived  at  the  tent, 
some  meat  was  cooked,  which  the  Arabs  gree- 
dily devoured,  and  gave  the  bones  to  us,  which 
we  immediately,  with  our  teeth  and  finger  nails, 
scraped  clean  of  every  particle  of  gristle.  Thn 
Arabs  were  also  treated  with  milk  and  water, 
but  none  was  allowed  to  us.  Porter  and  his 
master  toward  night  went  home,  and  I  to  my 
master's  tent. 

October  4th. — Upon  this  day  I  saw  what  I  had 
never  before  seen  upon  the  desert — a  shower 
As  soon  as  it  commenced,  the  women  went  to 
the  rocks  upon  the  hills,  with  their  geddacks  and 

L 


122  ROBBINS'  JOUBJN'AL. 

sponges  to  gather  water.  This  they  did  by  tak- 
ing the  water  from  the  rocks  with  a  sponge,  then 
squeezing  it  into  the  geddacks,  or  bowls.  I  laid 
down  upon  the  rocks  and  licked  and  sucked  all 
I  could,  but  was  unable  to  satisfy  my  thirst.  The 
shower  soon  passed  over,  and  the  burning  rays 
of  the  sun  returned.  The  women  nearly  filled 
a  water  goat  skin,  which  they  call  ^illubcn\  with 
water,  and  carried  it  with  them  to  the  tent. 

Upon  the  5th,  I  remained  in  and  about  the 
tent.  The  women  were  engaged  in  ripping  into 
pieces  the  garments  they  had  found  at  the  boat 
where  we  landed.  They  picked  out  the  stitches 
with  a  large  iron  needle,  and  very  carefully  pre- 
served every  thread,  being  vexed  when  they 
broke  one.  They  then  took  the  different  pieces 
of  the  garments,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces 
of  almost  every  variety  of  shapes.  My  mistress 
was  preparing  to  make  a  garment  of  them  for 
herself.  The  cloth  was  all  of  blue,  brown,  or 
black  color ;  and  what  possible  object  they  had 
in  cutting  it  to  pieces,  I  could  not  imagine.  They 
then  proceeded  to  sew  it  together.  After  about 
fifteen  days'  labor,  she  had  gotten  together 
enough  to  make  a  kind  of  loose  frock,  which  was 
sewed  to  the  colors,  at  her  breast  and  back,  and 
hung  loosely  down  to  her  knees,  her  arms  re- 
maining naked  to  her  shoulders.  She  assumed 
that  kind  of  consequence  when  clad  in  this  gar- 
ment, which  is  sometimes  seen  in  females  that 
never  saw  or  traversed  these  deserts.  Herii- 
sitors  admired  it ;  and  thought  her  peculiarly 
fortunate  in  having  introduced  a  new  fashion. 
My  master.  Ganus.  with  all  his  Mahometan  gra- 


itOBBINsi'  JOURNAL.  123 

vity,  was  pleased  with  the  comely  appearance 
of  his  amiable  bride.  To  see  the  flag  of  my  coun- 
try decorating  the  upper  part,  and  the  habit  of 
L1.  sailor  the  lower  part  of  my  mistress,  made  me 
smile  myself, 

The  next  morning,  (6th)  my  master  and  his 
two  sisters,  Muckwoola  and  Ishir,  went  with  all 
the  camels,  about  twenty,  young  and  old,  after 
water ;  not  having  watered  since  the  21th  of  last 
month,  or  as  the  natives  call  a  month,  Shahar. 
They  were  gone  during  this  day,  and  the  7th. 
and  returned  upon  the  8th,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. During  their  absence,  I  sought  for  snails 
and  found  but  few.  There  was  but  a  small  rem- 
nant of  water  in  the  tent ;  and  the  small  quan- 
tity usually  allowed  me  was  diminished,  so  that 
I  was  obliged  to  beg  at  a  neighbouring  tent,  in 
the  name  of  my  mistress,  as  this  was  the  only 
way  to  obtain  it.  As  I  had  wandered  about  five 
miles  from  the  tent,  entirely  out  of  sight  of  all 
the  tents,  I  saw  a  large  Arab,  with  a  drawn  sci- 
mitar, approaching  me  with  great  rapidity.  I 
leave  it  to  the  imagination  to  form  an  idea  of  my 
feelings,  He  said,  "  Soo-mook  en  tar?"  what's 
your  name  ?  I  answered,  Robbins,  "  Robbinis  ! 
Robbinis  /"  He  then  asked,  "  Me-nane  jateV  I 
answered,  by  pointing  towards  my  master's 
tent.  He  continued,  "  lllc-mein  en  tar  fn  I  an- 
swered, to  Ganus.  He  seemed  by  his  conduct, 
to  know  my  master,  and  said  no  more ;  but  eyed 
me  very  sharply  as  I  walked  hastily  from  him. 
The  tents  began  to  move  away  from  the  valley, 
leaving  my  master's  almost  alone. 

Upon  the  8th,  early  in  the  morning,  my  raas- 


|24  ROBBLVS'  JOURNAL. 

ter,  with  Muckwoola,  Ishir,  the  camels,  and  the 
water,  returned,  and  the  tents  were  immediate- 
ly struck,  preparatory  for  a  departure  to  some 
point  in  the  compass,  or,  as  I  sometimes  thought, 
to  a  point  not  in  the  compass  ;  these  unthinking 
creatures  seeming  to  act,  half  of  the  time,  with- 
out an}'  discoverable  motive.  Our  family  start- 
ed off  with  the  two  tents,  in  company  with  one 
of  our  neighbors,  who  also  had  two  tents,  and 
about  fifty  camels  ;  so  that  four  tents,  sixty  ca- 
mels, about  twenty  Africans,  and  one  American, 
formed  quite  a  respectable  cavalcade.  We  left 
the  valley,  and  passed  over  the  hill,  bearing  to 
the  S.  E. 

Upon  a  journey  the  usual  times  of  refreshing, 
eating  generally  out  of  the  question,  is  about 
noon,  and  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  When  they 
have  meat,  which  is  seldom,  they  partake  of  it 
once  only,  and  that  after  dark,  lest  they  should 
lose  a  portion  of  it  from  its  being  discovered. 
When  they  have  nothing  either  to  eat  or  drink, 
which  is  often  the  case,  these  particular  times 
and  seasons  are  dispensed  with,  and  the  time  of 
refreshing  is  made  up,  by  a  rational  creature, 
with  «  the  feast  of  reason"  and  by  Arabs,  with 
jabbering  and  sleeping.  We  travelled  moder- 
ately and  pitched  about  sunset. 

From  the  9th,  until  the  12th,  we  travelled  gra- 
dually forward  in  a  S.  E.  direction.  The  tra- 
velling dress  of  the  male  Arabs,  of  the  Wiled 
Lebdessebah  tribe,  if  they  have  any  at  all,  is  a 
coarse  white  blanket  as  the  principal  article. 
It  is  about  a  yard  and  a  half  wide,  and  five  yard?; 
long.     The  mode  of  putting  it  on,  when  done 


JIOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  125 

properly,  is  by  pulling  one  corner  of  it  over  the 
left  shoulder  as  low  as  the  breast ;  then  winding 
it  around   the  back  and   under  the  right  anns 
holding  it  by  the  upper  edge  ;  then  turning  the 
body  quickly  round,  until  it  conies   under  the 
left  arm  ;    then  throwing  the  upper  edge  over 
the  head ;  then  behind  the  neck  upon  the  right 
shoulder,  the  lower  edge  coming  in  front  as  low 
as  the  knee  ;   the  remaining  part  of  it  is  thrown 
over  the  left  shoulder,  hanging  loosely  behind, 
some  almost  to  the  ground,  or  according  to  the 
length  of  the  blanket.     The  blanket  is  made  fast 
next  to  the  body,  by  a  belt  of  morocco  leather 
with  a  buckle,     Over  the  whole  is  thrown  a  belt 
from  the  right  shoulder,  under  the  left  arm,  and 
sometimes  another  from  the  left  shoulder  under 
the  right  arm,  crossing  at  the  breast.     To  these 
are  attached  sheathes  or  powder  horns,  and  in 
the  sheath  is  put  the  scimitar,  or  long  knife,  such 
as  the  owner  happens  to  have.     This  tribe  sel- 
dom have  any  under-dress,  being  so  miserably 
poor  that  many  of  them  are  unable  to  procure  a 
decent  blanket.     If  they  have  muskets,  of  which 
they  appear  excessively  proud,  they  generally 
carry  them  in  their  hands,  exhibiting  them  as  an 
<  vidence  of  their  wealth,  or  a  proof  of  their  skill 
in  gunnery. 

They  all  have  a  kind  of  leather  pouch  hang- 
ing before  them,  by  a  strap  going  round  the 
neck,  in  which  they  carry  their  smoking  furni- 
ture, and  tobacco,  or  weeds,  or  any  thing  else 
that  will  smoke.  In  these  they  also  carry  their 
flint  and  steel,  to  strike  fire  with.  In  one  de- 
partment they  carry  their  tinder,  made  of  a  weed 

L  2 


126  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

produced  in  the  desert.  Their  pipes  are  also 
carried  therein,  some  of  steel  and  some  of  wood, 
and  some  smoke  through  the  shin  bone  of  the 
goat.  The  men  are  passionately  fond  of  smok- 
ing if  they  can  get  tobacco  ;  and  if  they  cannot, 
(hey  will  smoke  pieces  of  leather.  My  master, 
by  little  and  little,  smoked  up  nearly  all  his 
pouch.  When  a  number  form  a  circle,  the  pipe 
passes  from  mouth  to  mouth,  each  taking  two  or 
three  whiffs,  the  last  of  which  furnishes  them  with 
a  number  of  puffs  through  the  nose  or  mouth,  as 
best  suits  their  inclinations.  They  procure  their 
tobacco  from  and  near  Wadinoon.  The  manner 
of  cultivating  it  will  hereafter  be  described. 

Upon  the  13th,  continuing  nearly  the  same 
course,  we  discovered  a  number  of  tents  far 
ahead.  My  master,  taking  the  most  fleet  camel 
in  the  drove,  went  forward.  After  an  absence 
of  four  hours,  he  returned  with  the  head,  neck, 
and  part  of  the  entrails  of  a  camel,  but  we  could 
not  enjoy  a  repast  immediately,  as  there  was 
not  brush  enough  in  sight  to  cook  it.  We  halt- 
ed at  sunset,  and  it  was  not  until  ten  o'clock  at 
night,  after  the  most  diligent  search,  that  I  was 
able  to  procure  fuel  enough  to  dress  it.  It  was  a 
kind  of  feast  day  with  the  family;  and  I  was  per- 
mitted to  rejoice  for  the  bounties  of  the  desert  over 
afew  of  the  guts,  which  were  broiled  upon  brush, 
without  being  washed.  They  cooked  their  part 
of  the  feast  by  digging  a  hole  in  the  earth,  and 
putting  the  head  therein ;  then  building  a  fire 
upon  the  top  of  it,  it  was  fitted  for  the  supper- 
party  at  about  one  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

From  the  1 4th  to  the  16th,  nothing  happened 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  127 

worthy  of  relation.  On  the  last  of  these  days, 
my  master  procured  some  water  from  a  small 
valley  into  which  the  water,  produced  by  a 
shower,  had  settled,  it  being  thick,  warm  and 
muddy.     We  continued  in  a  S.  E.  direction. 

On  the  17th,  we  shifted  our  course  to  the  east- 
ward ;  the  country  became  more  hilly,  and  as  it 
became  so,  there  were  always  more  bushes  for 
the  camels  to  feed  upon.  In  this  part  of  this  de- 
sert, we  found  a  few  trees  about  the  size  of  our 
cherry-trees,  resembling  a  large  thorn  bush,  or 
tree.  It  produced  a  species  of  gum,  for  which 
the  natives  have  a  great  fondness.  It  is  light  co- 
lored and  transparent,  and  is  the  real  Gum- Ara- 
bic. In  the  afternoon  we  ascended  a  considera- 
ble hill,  and  after  descending  a  part  of  the  way 
down  the  opposite  side  of  it,  the  party  stopped, 
without  pitching  the  tent.  We  spent  the  night 
in  the  open  air,  the  northeast  wind  blowing  chil- 
ly upon  us.  I  felt  very  unwell,  and  laid  down  ; 
and  my  master,  knowing  that  my  indisposition 
arose  from  want  of  food,  cooked  me  a  small 
piece  of  camel's  hide,  which,  with  a  little  warm 
milk,  and  some  sound  sleep,  restored  me  to 
health  by  next  morning. 

Upon  the  1 8th,  having  retired  to  the  most  se 
cret  place,  an  event  of  the  greatest  immediate 
importance  to  me  took  place ;  it  was  one  that  \ 
had  long  wished  to  witness,  and  the  temporal) 
benefits  of  which,  I  hoped  to  experience — it  wa^ 
the  butchering  of  a  camel.  A  young  man  from 
our  neighboring  tent  came  to  my  master's  as- 
sistance, and,  joining  him  and  his  sisters,  assist- 
ed in  catching  a  two-year  old  camel  of  the  male 


128  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

kind.  They  cast  him,  and  lashed  his  four  legs 
together.  They  then  made  fast  a  rope  around 
his  nose,  and  drew  his  head  nearly  back  to  the 
tail,  the  beast  lying  upon  the  side.  They  then, 
with  a  large  knife,  cut  the  neck  off,  close  to  the 
shoulder  blades — then  turning  him  on  his  back, 
they  divided  the  skin  from  the  shoulder  to  the 
tail.  The  entrails  were  laid  upon  clean  bushes, 
and  the  meat  being  equally  divided,  was  dispos- 
ed of  in  the  same  manner — one  half  for  my  mas- 
ter and  his  family,  the  other  for  his  mother  and 
sisters.  The  mothers  name  was  Annbube.  They 
cut  off  pieces  of  the  hump,  which  is  somewhat 
like  the  brisket  of  an  ox,  and  ate  it  raw.  I  had. 
in  the  mean  time,  gathered  together  a  large 
quantity  of  fuel,  and  they  immediately  proceed- 
ed to  cook  the  blood,  and  with  the  utmost  vora- 
city devoured  the  whole  of  it.  This  was  at  about 
two  o'clock,  and  during  the  afternoon  the  wo- 
men were  employed  in  cutting  the  lean  part  of 
it  into  thin  long  slices,  and  hanging  them  in  the 
sun  to  dry.  Joy  seemed  to  pervade  every  heart: 
and  even  the  rigid  features  of  the  Arab  were 
relaxed  into  something  that  resembled  compla- 
cency. Supper  time  was  looked  for  with  de- 
lightful anxiety,  knowing  that  we  should  then  be 
regaled  with  the  guts  of  the  animal,  boiled  in 
the  v/ater  found  in  the  paunch.  After  this  re- 
past was  disposed  of,  we  all  remained  in  the  tent 
till  about  midnight,  and  then  I  retired  to  rest 
with  a  satisfied  appetite ;  being  the  first  time 
since  my  slavery  that  I  could  say  the  same.  Ne- 
ver, I  think,  did  the  most  sincere  Christian  feel 
more  grateful  to  the  Great  Giver  of  temporal 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  129 

blessings,  than  I  did  for  this  refreshment.  It  is 
a  fact,  worthy  of  observation,  that  the  Arabs  kill 
a  camel  with  the  utmost  secrecy.  When  my 
master  killed  this  one,  we  were  upon  a  plain 
that  seemed  to  be  without  limits,  no  tent  nor  hu- 
man being  in  sight,  excepting  the  four  belonging 
to  our  party  ;  yet,  before  the  skin  was  of£  rive 
or  six  Arabs  came  bounding  over  the  sandy  de- 
sert, to  partake  of  it.  This  I  noticed  was  inva- 
riably the  case,  so  long  as  I  continued  a  slave  to 
the  wandering  tribes. 

The  next  morning,  (19th)  I  was  employed  in 
curing  the  camel's  hide,  or  rather  putting  it  in  a 
situation  to  be  preserved,  until  after  the  meat  of 
the  beast  was  consumed.  It  was  cut  into  small 
pieces,  and  thrown  into  the  fire,  which,  by  sing- 
ing off  the  hair,  and  drying  it,  prepared  it  to  be 
deposited  in  the  tent  and  carried  upon  a  jour- 
ney. The  hoofs  are  disposed  of  in  the  same 
manner.  They  break  all  the  bones  to  pieces, 
and  eat  all  the  marrow,  uncooked.  It  is  aston- 
ishing to  see  what  a  quantity  of  marrow  is  pro- 
duced from  an  animal  whose  meat  is  so  dry  and 
lean.  At  about  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.  the  master  of 
Hogan,  with  him,  and  a  number  of  Arabs,  came 
to  our  tent ;  having  discovered,  either  from  the 
smoke  of  our  fire,  or  the  odour  of  the  cooking 
meat,  that  a  camel  had  been  slain.  Some  meat 
was  immediately  cooked.  I  was  rejoiced  to  see 
a  pretty  liberal  portion  allotted  to  my  hungry 
friend  Hogan — who  ate  as  though  the  genius  of 
famine  had  long  had  him  in  her  keeping.  He 
tore  off  the  meat  from  the  hard,  unyielding  neck 
of  the  camel  like  a  tiger ;  and  preserved  a  piece 


130  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

to  carry  home  to  his  shipmate  and  fellow-slave 
Dick  :  although  his  own  appetite  was  not  satis- 
fied. The  visiters,  in  the  mean  time,  were  sa- 
tiating their  appetites.  It  has  been  before  re- 
marked, that  the  Arabs  always  treat  their  visiters 
with  what  they  have ;  it  is  always  expected— 
and  if  it  is  known  that  a  camel  has  been 
slain,  and  the  owner  conceals  the  meat,  or 
declines  to  impart  a  portion,  the  highest  in- 
dignation is  excited.  During  these  visits,  the 
master  and  mistress  never  eat  themselves,  but 
wait  upon  their  guests.  Whether  this  practice 
arises  from  real  hospitality*  or  from  some  article  of 
their  faith,  I  know  not,  but  I  strongly  suspect  the 
latter.  Not  having  with  me  the  Koran*  I  cannot 
ascertain  it.  Those  of  my  readers,  who  are  ac- 
quainted with  the  system  introduced  into  the 
world  by  that  wonderful  production,  may  pro- 
bably settle  the  question  for  themselves. 

After  the  meat  was  eaten,  the  guests  were 
served  with  milk  and  water,  and  retired  highly 
gratified  ;  not  probably  so  much  from  a  princi- 
ple of  gratitude,  as  from  the  relief  obtained  for 


their  hunger. 


CHAP.  XII. 


A  storm  of  sand — distress — a  great  story — Porter's  sickness — v 
dismal  plain — rapid  travelling — nauseous  water — description 
of  a  well  in  Zahara  desert — marble  mountain — deep  valley, 
and  monument — impossibility  of  escaping — Spaniard — vieze 
of  the  ocean — Cape  Mirik — author  sold  to  another  Arab  of  the 
tribe  of  Wiled  DUcim. 

FROM  the  20th,  to  the  22d  of  October,  we 
(ravelled  leisurely  to  the  southward  end  west 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  131 

ward.  Every  morning,  after  the  sun  had  reach- 
ed a  considerable  height,  the  party  stopped,  and 
hung  out  the  slips  of  meat  upon  the  tents  or 
Sushes  to  dry.  The  country  became  more  hilly 
and  more  sandy.  Those  who  have  seen  the 
sandy  hills  at  Cape  Cod,  in  a  violent  gale  of 
wind,  can  form  a  faint  idea  of  the  country  over 
which  we  were  now  passing.  The  trade  wind 
Mew  a  gale  almost  constantly.  The  atmosphere 
was  filled  with  hot  sand,  as  ours  is  with  snow  in 
a  snow  storm.  The  vertical  rays  of  the  sun  beat- 
ing upon  a  body  almost  naked — the  sand  filling 
the  eyes  constantly  exposed — the  feet  sinking, 
ancle  deep,  into  the  sand  at  every  step,  made 
travelling  all  but  destruction.  My  ears,  and 
nose,  and  sometimes  my  mouth,  were  literally 
filled  with  sand — the  one  almost  lost  the  sense 
of  hearing — the  other  that  of  smelling,  and  the 
last  that  of  tasting.  The  tent  could  not  be  pitch- 
ed, as  the  sand  would  not  hold  the  tent  pegs. 
We  had  no  water  to  spare  for  the  grateful  exer- 
cise of  washing,  and,  as  a  most  disgusting  sub- 
stitute, I  was  compelled  to  make  use  of  my  own 
urine,  in  washing  my  face,  arms,  and  hands.  A 
few  more  such  day's  travelling,  I  think,  would 
have  put  an  end  to  my  life  and  my  slavery. 

Upon  the  23d,  we  travelled  to  the  southward. 
The  wind  moderated  considerably,  and  at  about 
noon,  we  stopped,  and  unloaded  the  tents.  My 
master's  only  son,  about  twelve  years  of  age, 
named  E//e,  told  me  that  Joe  was  in  a  tent  at  a 
little  distance  off  I  knew  he  meant  Porter,  and 
he  and  I  went  in  pursuit  of  the  tents  to  the  north- 
ward.    After  travelling  three  or  four  miles,  we 


j  32  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

called  at  a  tent  which  was  owned  by  Mr.  Sa- 
vage's former  master.  I  also  saw  my  master 
Ganns,  who  was  assisting  in  butchering  a  camel. 
I  was  immediately  sent  to  gather  dry  bushes 
which  were  scarce,  and  continued  as  much  as 
three  hours  in  this  laborious  service.  By  this 
time,  the  camel  was  dressed.  They  had  pro- 
cured a  brass  kettle,  into  which  they  threw  some 
meat,  entrails,  &c.  and  boiled  them  in  the  paunch 
water.  Of  this,  they  all  partook  liberally.  As 
a  compensation  for  my  toil,  they  gave  me  the 
fcctus  of  a  young  camel,  found  in  the  one  they  had 
killed,  about  the  size  of  a  rat.  I  pushed  it  into 
the  fire  and  sand  under  the  kettle,  and  after 
roasting  it,  was  permitted  to  swallow  the  whole  ca- 
mel myself  Extreme  hunger  made  this  a  deli- 
cious meal.  Porter's  master  was  also  here,  and 
asked  mine  to  let  me  go  to  his  tent  to  see  /oc,  as 
he  was  sick.  Liberty  was  granted,  and  I  visited 
him  at  nearly  sunset.  He  had  been  sick  a  num- 
ber of  days  with  the  head-ache,  and  had  been 
bled  in  the  head  by  the  natives  with  a  jack- 
knife,  which  they  call  Umoose.  He  looked  sick, 
had  lost  much  flesh,  and  was  extremely  deject- 
ed. Although  the  common  cant  of  advising  in 
such  a  case  rather  aggravates  than  mitigates 
sorrow,  I  ventured  to  urge  him  to  exercise  all 
the  fortitude  he  could  ;  and  as  it  was  the  will  of 
our  Maker  that  we  must  suffer,  we  ought  to  make 
the  best  we  could  of  our  situation,  wretched  as 
it  was.  I  fully  believe  that  it  was  from  this  sen- 
timent, that  my  own  life  was  preserved ;  and 
that  by  this,  I  was  kept  from  perishing  upon  the 
deserts  of  Zahara. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL-.  133 

We  travelled,  during  the  24th,  over  deep 
*and  ;  but  upon  the  25th,  early  in  the  morning, 
we  all  reached  a  boundless  plain,  stretching, 
apparently,  an  immeasurable  distance  to  the 
south  east,  south  west,  and  north  west.  The 
surface  of  the  earth  was  hard,  mixed  with  small 
stones,  mostly  baked  in  it.  It  appeared  to  be 
as  hard  as  a  pavement ;  and  the  hoof  of  the  ca- 
mel made  not  the  least  impression  upon  it.  If 
could  not  be  more  dissimilar  to  the  country  me 
had  just  passed  than  it  was.  At  sun  rise,  the 
camels  were  stopped,  and,  as  usual,  service  was 
performed.  I  cannot  call  that  divine  service, 
which  was  performed  in  honour  of  Mahommed 
Our  water  was  wholly  exhausted,  there  being 
not  a  drop  remaining  in  either  tent.  A  little 
dried  meat  was  still  left.  We  entered  upon  thi* 
plain,  and  to  me  the  most  gloomy  entry  I  ever 
made  upon  any  part  of  the  earth.  The  natives 
must  have  known  that  the  course  we  were  tra- 
velling would  lead  to  a  well,  or  they  never  would 
have  ventured  upon  it.  This  was  to  me  the  on- 
ly consolation.  By  about  noon,  having  travel- 
led  very  fast,  we  reached  the  centre  of  this 
plain.  The  country  presented  to  my  view  the 
most  melancholy  prospect  that  I  can  possibly 
imagine  can  exist  in  nature.  It  appeared  to  be 
an  exact  water  level.  The  sea,  in  a  dead  calm{ 
never,  to  my  eye,  appeared  smoother ;  and  the 
earth  was  as  destitute  as  that  of  every  shrub, 
plant,  or  weed.  It  seemed  as  if  the  genius  of 
famine  and  drought,  held  here  their  cheerless  do- 
minion. Neither  man,  beast,  nor  even  insect, 
could  subsist  upon  it,  and  neither  were  within 


134  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

sight,  except  our  party.  We  fled  across  it  as  we 
would  have  fled  from  the  city  of  destruction.  At 
nearly  sunset  we  again  Teached  a  more  sandy 
country.  We  continued  to  travel  until  ten 
o'clock  at  night;  and  having  found  a  few  bushes, 
the  wearied  camels  were  stopped  to  feed.  Hav- 
ing started  in  the  morning  at  about  one  o'clock, 
by  the  stars,  as  I  judged,  and  travelling  with 
amazing  rapidity,  until  ten  o'clock  at  night,  we 
must  have  gone  as  many  as  ninety  miles.  The 
course  we  travelled  was  to  the  S.  W.  We  only 
threw  off  the  tents,  and  resting  till  nearly  day 
liglit,  again  started  upon  the  journey.  Not  hav- 
ing drank  a  single  drop  of  water  the  day  before, 
nor  during  this  night,  my  thirst  was  so  excessive, 
that  I  thought  I  could  not  survive  it.  We,  how- 
ever, drove  on  as  usual  at  a  full  trot ;  and  did 
not,  until  the  next  day,  (26th)  at  twelve  o'clock, 
find  any  water.  My  master  then  procured  a 
draft  for  us  all,  at  a  tent ;  and  this,  with  a  few  of 
the  roots  and  sprouts  before  mentioned,  in  some 
measure,  satisfied  me.  We  stopped  but  a  few 
minutes ;  and  the  country  becoming  hilly,  and 
the  night  dark,  we  travelled,  full  speed,  over 
hills  and  vallies,  till  twelve  o'clock.  We  must 
have  gone  cs  many  miles  this  day  as  we  did  the 
preceding  one,  being  the  most  rapid  travelling 
I  ever  witnessed  upon  camels.  The  tents  were 
thrown  off,  and  the  camels  fed ;  a  little  meat  was 
cooked  for  the  party,  and  as  soon  as  this  was 
finished,  we  started  again.  For  the  past  day, 
our  course  was  about  west.  We  drove  on  with 
the  greatest  rapidity  until  the  next  day,  (27th) 
at  about  noon,  when,  to  my  inconceivable  joy. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  ij5 

we  reached  a  "well.  But  upon  attempting  to 
taste  the  water,  notwithstanding  the  extremity 
of  my  thirst,  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  I 
could  force  it  into  my  throat,  or  retain  it  there 
when  I  had.  It  was  more  offensive  than  the 
most  nauseous  bilge-water — it  had  turned  green 
by  stagnation,  and  reddish  by  the  quantity  of 
camel's  dung  mixed  with  it ;  but  it  was  our  only 
resource,  "  and  we  must  drink  or  die" 

This  was  an  interior  well,  which  is  seldom 
found  far  into  the  deserts.  This  well  was  one 
of  great  depth.  When  the  natives  begin  to  dig 
a  well,  they  furnish  themselves  wi^h  all  the  largest 
bushes  or  trees  in  the  adjoiningjeountry,  some 
of  which  are  of  the  sizo  of  a  man's  thigh.  These 
they  cut  into  poles  of  about  six  feet  in  length. 
After  they  have  penetrated  a  small  depth  into 
the'  earth,  they  put  three  of  these  sticks  into 
holes,  made  in  the  sides  of  the  well,  leaving  a 
triangular  hole  in  the  centre,  of  a  sufficient  size 
to  let  down  and  draw  up  the  water-bucket. 
These  poles  are  placed  thick  at  the  top,  and 
further  apart  as  the  earth  grows  harder.  In  this 
way  they  continue  to  descend  into  the  earth, 
passing  the  earth  up  in  bowls  from  one  to  the 
other  to  the  top,  and  inserting  the  stakes  as 
mentioned,  when  necessary.  After  they  have 
descended  a  considerable  depth,  they  draw  up 
the  earth  in  leathern  buckets,  by  means  of  a 
rope,  having  no  windlass  or  sweep,  to  assist  bo- 
dily strength  in  this  laborious  operation.  In- 
deed, this  tribe  seemed  to  have  no  idea  of  ma- 
chinery of  the  most  simple  kind,  to  facilitate  the 
construction  or  manufacture  of  any  thing,  or  to 


^36  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  * 

save  manual  labor.  They  continue  in  this  man- 
ner to  descend,  until  they  come  to  water.  Look 
ing  down  the  well,  as  far  as  light  will  enable  the 
eye  to  discern,  the  observer  sees  a  regular  tri- 
angle in  the  centre.  These  cross-sticks  furnish 
a  ladder,  by  which  the  natives  descend  to  clear 
the  well  of  sand,  which  is  constantly  blowing 
into  its  open  surface;  these  stupid  creatures 
seldom  having  sagacity  enough  to  prevent  this 
by  covering  the  top.  The  water  is  drawn  from 
the  well  in  a  leathern  bucket,  made  of  tanned 
camel's  or  goat's  skins.  The  top  of  it  is  a  cir- 
cular hoop,  ove*1  which  the  skin  is  sewed,  form 
mg  a  round  vessel  at  the  sides  and  bottom,  hold- 
ing about  three  gallons.  Three  ropes  are  fas- 
tened to  this  hoop,  equi-distant  from  each  other, 
and  these  to  the  one  by  which  it  is  let  down. 
The  country  in  which  this  well  was  situated  was 
the  deepest  and  most  extensive  valley  I  had  yet 
seen;  surrounded,  excepting  to  the  westward. 
by  high  rocky  hills.  On  the  east  side,  I  saw  and 
examined  immense  ledges  of  the  most  beautiful 
white  marble.  As  I  was  descending  into  this 
valley,  my  distress  could  not  suppress  my  admi- 
ration, at  beholding  an  immense  rock  of  white 
marble,  standing  perpendicularly,  and  entirely 
detached  from  the  ledge,  which  formed  the  east- 
ern limits  of  it.  On  a  distant  view,  I  immediate- 
ly imagined  it  to  be  some  castle  for  the  defence 
of  an  adjoining  city,  or  the  palace  of  some  Afri- 
can prince.  I  felt  confident  that  I  was  approach 
ing  some  great  city.  I  continued  to  approach  ; 
and  almost  forgot  my  hunger  and  thirst  in  the 
anticipated   gratification  of  my  curiosity.      At 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL  137 

length,  I  came  to  this  astonishing  monument — 
went  round  it — examined  it  as  minutely  as  I  pos- 
sibly could,  and  could  not  discover  upon  it  the 
(east  trait  of  human  art.  My  expectations  wrei-2 
blown  away  by  the  wind  that  whistled  round  it, 
and  my  readers  must  excuse  me  for  not  sajing 
any  thing  more  about  it,  only  that  it  wras,  at  the 
base,  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelogram,  or  oblong 
square,  as  near  as  I  could  judge,  of  one  hundred 
ieet  in  length,  and  sixty  in  breadth.  Its  height 
must  have  been  from  seventy  to  eighty  feet. 
After  stating  the  simple  fact,  I  leave  it  to  the  cu- 
rious, the  philosophical,  the  inquisitive,  and  the 
wondering,  to  make  conjectures  for  themselves. 
This  valley  was,  to  appearance,  the  most  fertile 
place  I  had  seen,  j  It  was  the  first  earth  I  had 
walked  upon  in  Africa,  that  seemed  susceptible 
of  cultivation.  It  was  mostly  a  clay-soil,  and 
considerable  grass  was  growing,  or  rather  stand- 
ing, as  the  excessive  drought  this  season  had 
dried  up  every  thing.  The  grass  resembled  that 
which  grows  in  what  is  called,  in  New-England, 
boggy  meadows.  Toward  night  we  left  this  val- 
ley, and  passed  through  the  opening  hill  to  the 
southwest,  having  fitted  but  two  goat  skins  with 
the  offensive  wate.i  found  in  the  well.  I  carried 
a  bowl  full,  however,  four  or  five  miles,  fearing 
I  should  be  destitute  of  water  of  any  kind.  We 
stopped  for  the  night,  and  cooked  a  little  dried 
meat,  by  putting  small  hard  pieces  into  the  fire, 
roasting  it,  taking  it  out  and  pounding  it  in  a 
maress*  or  mortar. 

Upon  the  28th,  we  travelled  moderately  to 
the  southwest,  until  noon,  when  the  tents  were 

M  2 


^8  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

pitched,  for  the  first  time,  for  a  number  of  days 
Even  the  stomach  of  an  Arab  could  no  longer 
endure  the  water  we  had  ;  and  my  master  and 
his  sisters  having  learned  from  a  passing  party, 
that  water  was  at  no  great  distance,  went  in  pur- 
suit of  some  of  a  better  kind,  if  comparisons  of 
quality  are  allowable  between  different  sorts,  all 
of  which  would  nauseate  a  beast. 

On  the  next  day,  (29th)  Muckwoola  and  hhir 
returned,  bringing  with  them  some  fresh  water. 
and  some  dried  fish-skins,  or  fragments  of  fish, 
which  had  before  been  deprived  of  the  better 
part.  Some  of  this  was  allowed  me  for  supper; 
and  as  it  was  a  rarity,  having  lived  upon  camel's 
hide,  meat,  and  bones  for  some  time,  I  ate  it  with 
the  best  appetite.  My  master  Ganus  did  not 
return  with  his  sisters.  I  was  left  under  the 
command  of  the  women  once  more ;  and,  as 
usual,  found  my  privileges  abridged  as  female 
authority  prevailed.  We  remained  stationary 
until  the  next  day,  at  noon,  (30th)  then  start- 
ed and  bore  to  the  N.  W.  and  travelled  mode- 
rately, during  that  and  the  next  day,  (31st.) 

November  1st,  1815. — From  this  day  until  the 
HJd,  we  continued  to  travel  moderately,  and  as 
we  passed  along,  the  country  became  more  hil- 
ly ;  nothing  took  place  of  any  consequence.  On 
our  passage  we  saw  a  few  small  locusts,  which 
we  gathered  and  ate.  Upon  the  3d,  my  master 
returned  to  his  tent,  after  an  absence  of  six  days, 
it  being  his  longest  absence  since  I  was  his 
slave,  bringing  with  him  one  piece  of  tent  cloth. 
Having  often  mentioned  that  I  wandered  off  at 
a  distance,  and  frequent  opportunities  occurring 


ROBBLNS'  JOURINA,..  139 

to  make  my  escape,  it  may  excite  wonder  that 
I  did  not  attempt  it.  The  description  I  have  at 
tempted  to  give  of  the  country  seems  to  be  a 
sufficient  reason.  Had  I  attempted  it,  starva- 
tion must  have  been  the  final  result,  if  I  had  nol 
been  taken  by  another  master  before  this  took 
place.  Let  the  reader  imagine  to  himself  a  de- 
sert of  eight  hundred  miles  in  width,  and  more 
than  two  thousand  in  length,  furnishing  nothing 
for  the  subsistence  of  human  beings,  but  camels, 
and  these  always  in  possession  of  individuals, 
parties,  or  caravans.  Let  him  also  picture  to 
himself  a  solitary  wanderer  upon  this  desert, 
without  food  or  water,  and  without  any  means 
to  procure  either,  and  liable  every  day,  and  al- 
most every  hour,  to  be  encountered  by  the  na- 
tives, who  are  passing  it  in  every  direction,  he 
will  conclude  that  the  means  of  escape  were  of 
the  most  unpromising  nature.  I  might  as  well 
have  escaped  from  a  ship,  by  plunging  into  the 
ocean.  At  Wadinoon  I  afterwards  became  ac- 
quainted with  a  Spaniard,  who  attempted,  upon 
a  male  camel,  to  escape.  He  assured  me  that 
he  tra-.  elled  the  desert  thirty  days  without  wa- 
ter, and  without  any  food,  excepting  a  fox  which 
he  killed.  That  at  the  end  of  this  time,  he  and 
his  stolen  camel  were  taken  by  another  tribe, 
and  he  became  a  slave  to  them.  He  was  after- 
wards demanded  by  his  first  master ;  but  abso- 
lutely refused  to  return  again  into  the  tribe  of  the 
Lebdcssebuii,  and  seizing  a  musket,  threatened  the 
life  of  him.  His  former  master  relinquished  the 
attempt  to  reclaim  him,  and  he  continued  a  slave 
until  the  time  he  and  I  were,  upon  the  same  day, 


140  ItOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ransomed.  He  assured  me  that  he  had  been  in 
slavery  seven  years.  I  shall  again  have  occa- 
sion to  mention  this  Spaniard. 

My  master  ordered  the  tents  to  be  struck  up 
on  his  return,  and  we  proceeded  to  travel  in  a 
northern  direction.  I  went  ahead  with  my  mas- 
ter, delighted  again  to  be  relieved  from  the 
thraldom  and  irksomeness  of  female  government, 
which,  wherever  it  prevails,  being  founded  in 
less  reason,  is  accompanied  with  more  tyranny 
than  that  of  men.  Toward  night,  we  overtook 
a  sick  woman  upon  a  camel.  She  was  the  first 
female  Arab  whom  I  had  seen  dangerously  sick  ; 
indeed  it  was  rare  to  see  even  the  slightest  in- 
disposition among  them.  I  assisted  her  in  dis- 
mounting, after  the  camel  was  made  to  kneel. 
My  master's  family  overtook  us,  and  the  tent 
was  pitched.  After  taking  a  little  milk,  I  turn- 
ed in. 

The  next  morning.  (4th)  before  day -light  we 
were  on  the  march  for  another  watering-place. 
i  was  permitted  to  go  with  the  party  to  the  well, 
being  the  first  time,  since  my  slavery,  that  I  was 
allowed  so  to  do,  being  always  before  left  be- 
hind with  the  tent.  .  This  variation  from  the  usu- 
al custom  excited  a  suspicion  in  my  mind  that  I 
was  to  be  sold  ;  as  the  large  watering-places  are 
generally  the  market  for  slaves.  In  travelling 
toward  it,  we  passed  over  hills  of  sand.  When 
at  the  top  of  them,  I  saw  the  ocean  !  I  knew  it 
must  be  the  Atlantic,  from  the  course  we  had 
travelled.  I  ardently  panted  to  be  on  the  bo- 
som of  it,  as  the  waves  thereof  might  waft  me  to 
the  regions  of  civilization — and  might  waft  me 


ROBBING  JOURNAL.  Ml 

to  ray  beloved  country.  In  the  valley  below,  I 
saw  a  great  multitude  of  camels  around  the 
wells,  there  being  a  number  in  this  valley.  The 
camels  knew  there  was  water  below,  as  well  as 
their  riders  ;  and  after  descending  a  part  of  the 
way  down  the  steep  hill,  the  forward  camels  be- 
gan to  run.  My  camel  followed  the  example  ; 
and  as  the  mouth  of  this  beast  never  submitted 
to  the  restraint  of  the  bit,  never  having  been 
bridled,  I  was  precipitated  down  the  hill  with  a 
velocity  with  which  I  had  before  been  unac- 
quainted ;  and  when  I  arrived  at  the  well,  1 
might  have  said,  as  Gilpin  did  when  he  reached 
Ware,  "  I  came,  because  my  camel  would 
come."  The  wells  were  situated  near  each 
other ;  but  from  the  number  of  camels  that  are 
constantly  coming  to  drink,  they  are  obliged  to 
keep  them  off,  if  possible,  till  those  drinking  arc 
satisfied.  This  is  done  with  very  great  difficul- 
ty. After  the  camels  are  sufficiently  watered, 
they  are  sent  to  browse.  The  natives  never 
bring  their  tents  to  a  well,  leaving  them  behind 
in  the  keeping  of  the  women.  I  now  had  as 
much  water  as  I  wanted  ;  and  can  say,  that  it 
was  the  first  time  my  thirst  was  thoroughly 
quenched,  since  I  became  a  slave  toGanus.  The 
tents  must  have  been  as  many  as  fifty  miles  back 
in  the  desert ;  for  they  always  remain  where 
they  are  left,  when  the  owner  goes  in  search  of 
water,  until  he  returns.  We  slept  this  night  un- 
der a  large  bush  with  a  large  company,  and  kept 
a  fire  for  the  most  part  of  the  night. 

Upon  the  5th,  early  in  the  morning,  the  ca- 
mels were  all  watered  again,  as  they  are  some- 


j42  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

times  compelled  to  go  entirely  without  it  for 
twenty  days,  and  sometimes  for  a  longer  period 
My  master  Ganus  expressed  great  anxiety  that 
my  short  trowsers  should  be  washed ;  and  told 
me  to  take  them  off  This  left  my  body  entirely 
naked,  excepting  that  part  of  it  which  was  co- 
vered with  the  American  flag,  and  which  he  did 
not  attempt  to  compel  me  to  strike.  They  were 
hung  upon  a  camel  to  dry,  and  this  was  the  last 
time  I  ever  saw  them,  or  Muckwoola  and  Ishir. 
who  carried  them  off  with  them. 

I  was  now  taken  on  to  a  camel  behind  my  mas- 
ter, who,  in  company  with  another  Arab,  went 
off  full  trot  to  the  southward.  Before  noon,  we 
met  numbers  of  the  natives  who  had  fresh  rish 
with  them.  We  obtained  a  breakfast  of  them. 
By  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  we  came  to  the 
edge  of  an  high  precipice,  limiting  a  considera- 
ble bay,  a  little  ta  •  the  north  of  Cape  Mirik.  We 
descended  to  the  beach,  at  the  head  of  the  bay, 
which  had  in  it  a  number  of  sand  islands.  The 
tide  was  now  out,  leaving  it  dry,  and  we  passed 
along  at  the  base  of  the  precipice,  and  discover- 
ed a  number  of  shallow  wells,  having  brackish 
water  in  them.  We  continued  to  travel  upon 
the  beach  until  we  came  to  a  number  of  pitched 
tents,  and  here  I  first  saw  a  kind  of  hut  or  wig- 
wam, constructed  by  erectingtwo  crotches  about 
ten  feet  apart — laying  a  pole  on  them,  and  from 
this  extendi:  .;  poles  to  the  ground,  and  cover- 
ing them  wit  ea-weed,  giving  them  the  shape 
of  a  thatched  roof.  Within,  the  natives  have  a 
bed  made  also  of  sea-weed  ;  but  lest  they  should 
blunder  upon  something  that  looks  like  the  con 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  443 

venience  and  comfort  of  civilized  life,  they  are 
careful  to  make  them  so  low  that  a  human  being 
cannot  stand  erect  in  one  of  them.  We  dis- 
mounted near  a  hut.  My  master  went  off,  and 
I  sat  down,  in  a  kind  of  trance,  gazing  upon  the 
bay  before  me,  and  upon  the  point  of  Cape  Mi- 
nk, stretching  into  the  sea.  Soon  after  my  mas- 
ter returned  with  three  or  four  Arabs,  one  of 
whom  was  soon  pointed  out  as  my  second  master. 
He  bade  me  stand  up — told  me  to  walk,  and 
viewed  me  with  the  closest  scrutiny.  I  suspect- 
ed he  was  about  to  open  my  mouth  to  judge  df 
my  age  by  my  teeth,  and  examine  my  feet  to  see 
if  I  had  been  foundered  by  high  living  with  my 
master  Ganus,  mistress  Sarah,  misses  Muckwoo- 
la  and  Ishir ;  but  he  dispensed  with  these  cere- 
monies, seemed  to  be  pleased,  and  said  f  was 
not  foonta,  but  bono.  He  bade  me  follow  him. 
We  went  some  distance  to  one  of  the  huts,  where 
he  begged  some  dried  fish  for  me  which  I  ate. 

I  now  became  the  property  of  another  Arab. 
I  felt  but  little  anxiety  at  this  exchange,  know- 
ing that  my  situation  could  not  be  rendered 
much  worse,  although  I  was  sensible  that  Ganus 
was  not  so  bad  as  some  of  the  Arabs  I  had  seen. 
At  first  sight,  I  was  pleased  with  my  new  mas- 
ter. He  was  a  little  over  thirty,  by  his  appear- 
ance. He  had  an  open,  ingenuous  countenance, 
with  but  little  of  that  fiery  malignity  so  univer- 
sally seen  in  the  tribe  of  the  Lebdessebah.  His 
name  was  Mahomet  Meaarah,  of  the  tribe  of  the 
Wiled  DHeim,  his  tent  being  some  distance  in  the 
interior. 

The  readers  of  this  Journal  thus  far  will  per- 


|44  ROBBDTS'  JOURNAL. 

ceive,that  the  author  has  confined  himself  strict- 
ly to  what  passed  under  his  immediate  observa- 
tions.     He  has  absolutely  prohibited   himself 
from  incorporating  with  his  narration,  any  of  the 
vague,  and  generally  deceptive  stories,  which 
he  had  heard  from  the  illiterate  and  brutish  race 
of  creatures,  among  whom  he  was   enslaved. 
Had  he  done  this,  the  volume  would  have  alrea- 
dy been  filled.     His  steady  object  has  been  to 
give  an  accurate  idea  of  that  part  of  the  Zahara 
desert  over  which  he  travelled.     It  cannot  have 
a  geographical  accuracy,   because   he   had   no 
means  to  ascertain  the  latitude  of  the  country 
over  which  he  travelled,  or  rather  was  trans- 
ported, but  by  the  situation  of  the  sun,  and  by 
the  shade  which  his  own  body  cast  upon  the 
sand  of  this  immense  desert.     As  to  the  man- 
ners, customs,  and  habits  of  the  tribe,  with  which 
he  had  thus  long  continued,  he  hopes  the  reader 
has  acquired  some  correct  ideas.     He  has  at- 
tempted to  describe  their  implements  of  manu- 
facturing, cooking,  and  travelling — their  habi- 
tations, and  particularly  their  mode  of  worship. 
The  result  of  this  relation  and  description  is  be- 
fore the  reader,  and  it  is  hoped  it  may  at  least 
furnish  some  amusement,  if  it  is  destitute  of  in- 
struction.    We  now  take  leave  of  the  wretched 
tribe  of  the  Wiled  Lebdessebah,  and  whatever  has 
been  seen  among  the  Wiled  D^leim  of  a  similar 
nature,  we  shall  not  repeat,  but  merely  allude 
to.    Whatever  was  noticed  of  a  different  nature 
in  this  tribe,  we  shall  continue  patiently  to  de- 
tail, and  faithfully  to  describe. 


ROBBINS*  JOURNAL.  lib 


CHAP.  XIII. 


Africa — the  Coast — Interior — Deserts— Mountains — Capes**- 
Rivers — Islands — Straits. 

THE  attention  of  the  reader  having  been  foi 
?ome  time  devoted  to  that  part  of  Africa  called 
Zaham.  or  the  Great  Western  Desert — to  the  pe- 
culiarities of  the  wandering  Arabs  who  inhabit 
it,  and  to  the  sufferings  of  the  author  upon  it ;  ii 
may  be  an  useful  way  to  relieve  it,  by  changing 
attention  from  a  section  of  this  continent  to  a  ge- 
neral view  of  the  whole.  It  is  not  intended  to 
give  a  minute  geographical  description  of  each 
kingdom,  as  such  more  properly  belongs  to  the 
geographer  than  the  journalist.  In  our  histori- 
cal chapter  we  endeavored,  in  a  compressed 
manner,  to  trace  the  progress  of  discoveries,  and 
settlements  upon  this  continent.  In  this,  it  is 
intended  merely  to  describe  the  relative  local 
situations  of  the  different  countries  or  kingdoms, 
situated  upon  this  immense  Peninsula,  compris- 
ing at  least  one  quarter  of  the  whole  globe.  The 
most  accurate  information  we  can  obtain  of  thi* 
continent  is  at  best  but  imperfect;  and  our  li- 
mits preclude  us  from  giving  any  thing  but  a  ge- 
neral account.  In  our  historical  chapter,  we 
attempted  to  assign  the  reason,  why  this  portion 
of  the  world  is  so  little  known,  while  the  other 
continents,  even  that  of  the  new  world,  Ameri- 
ca, have  been  almost  wholly  explored  and  de- 
scribed. To  that,  we  refer  the  reader ;  and  al- 
so to  that,  we  refer  him  for  the  boundaries  of 
this  continent  (page  38.) 

N 


146  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

Africa  is  divided,  nearly  in  the  centre,  by  the 
Equator  ;  of  course  the  greatest  part  of  it  is  si- 
tuated within  the  torrid  zone.  The  whole  of  it 
is  either  exceedingly  fertile,  or  extremely  bar- 
ren. Its  fertility  is  occasioned  by  the  great 
sources  of  vegetation,  heat  and  moisture.  Heat 
prevails  every  where ;  but  moisture  in  particu- 
lar portions.  Where  the  latter  prevails,  this 
country  is  one  of  the  most  productive  in  the  uni- 
verse— where  it  is  deprived  of  rain,  it  is  '•  all 
barren."  This  continent  differs  from  the  other 
three  great  ones,  in  almost  every  respect.  In 
the  others,  the  sea  coast  is  generally  the  most 
barren  ;  in  this,  the  interior  is  so.  Upon  the 
coast,  are  regions  abounding  with  every  luxury 
which  nature  pours  into  the  lap  of  indulgence  ; 
much  of  the  interior  is  a  boundless  waste  of  de- 
serts. A  vertical  sun,  pouring  burning  rays  up- 
on dry  sand,  defies  the  progress  of  vegetation. 
Even  upon  these  deserts,  a  race  of  beings  is  found 
to  subsist.  With  the  curse  of  Ishmael  upon  their 
devoted  heads,  and  sordid  hearts,  they  flee  the 
regions  of  fertility  and  civilization,  and  seem  to 
delight  in  sterile  barrenness,  and  human  misery. 

It  has  been  remarked,  that  this  continent,  in 
shape,  resembles  a  triangle,  with  irregular  sides. 
Beginning  at  the  northeast  point,  Egypt  is  situ- 
ated, bounding  east  upon  the  Red  Sea,  and  north, 
upon  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  Isthmus  of 
Suez,  uniting  this  continent  there  with  Asia. 
This  section  of  Africa  has  long  been  celebroted. 
and  is  well  known  in  sacred  and  profane  histo- 
ry. Continui.ig  west  upon  the  northern  bounda- 
ry of  this  continent,  and  along  the  shores  of  the 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  J47 

Mediterranean,  Barca,  Tripoli,  Tunis,  Algierc,  Fez, 
and  Morocco,  are  situated,  reaching  the  north- 
;ioint,  at  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar.  All  these 
countries  are  possessed  by  Arabs  and  Moors,  al- 
though with  them  are  intermingled  other  na- 
tions. It  is  generally  termed  the  Coast  of  Bar- 
bary.  The  history  of  these  distinct  states,  or 
kingdoms,  is  known  to  every  historian,  and  their 
geographical  situation  to  every  geographer. 
For  centuries  they  have  been,  and  still  are,  the 
terror  of  the  civilized  world.  Nations,  the  most 
powerful  by  land  and  by  sea,  have  condescend- 
ed to  pay  them  tribute,  and  to  ransom  their  un- 
fortunate countrymen  who  are  there  enslaved. 
They  infest  the  adjoining  oceans  with  their  con- 
temptible navies,  and  upon  land  they  are  invin- 
cible ;  not  from  their  numbers  or  their  military 
science,  but  from  the  facilities  afforded  them  by 
their  country,  to  avoid  conquest  by  the  best  dis- 
ciplined armies.  Destroy  their  naval  armaments, 
and  batter  down  their  capitals,  they  still  have  a 
safe  retreat  in  their  mountains  and  in  their  de- 
serts, where  a  civilized  army  cannot  subsist. 
The  mention  of  Tripoli  calls  up  the  proud  re- 
collection of  the  infancy  of  the  American  Navy. 
It  was  upon  the  coast  of  that  country,  that  Ame- 
ricans began  to  learn  how  to  conquer  upon  the 
ocean.  It  was  their  achievements  there  that 
occasioned  the  prophetic  JVelson  to  see,  in  the 
infancy  of  our  navy,  the  future  rival  of  that  of 
Britain.  The  mention  of  Algiers  makes  us  re- 
member a  recent  achievement  of  this  navy  as 
she  is  approaching  towards  manhood. 

Upon  the  Western  boundary  of  Africa,  are  si- 


148  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL 

tuated  Suse,  Azanaga,  North-Guinea,  or  SenegaL 
embracing  the  country  of  the  Jaloffs,  Foulahs, 
Fehops    and    Mandingoes — South-Guinea,  con- 
taining the  Pepper  Coast,  the  Ivory  Coast,  and  the 
Gold  Coast — East-Guinea,  or  the  Slave  Coast,  in 
which  is  situated  the  kingdoms  of  Whidah,  Ardra, 
and  Benin.     The  next  great  division  of  the  wes- 
tern coast  is  Congo,  comprehending  the  king- 
doms of  Loango,  Congo,  Angola,  Matamba,  and 
Berwwla,     It  is  upon  this  coast  that  the  Slave 
Trade  lias  so  long,  to  the  indelible  disgrace  of 
ihe  Christian  world,  been  prosecuted.     The  in- 
habitants are  described,  by  all  historians,    as 
mild  and  peaceable.     Possessing  a  country  of 
great  fertility — having  no  means  of  making  con- 
quests,   or    extending   dominion,   they   remain 
where  nature  has  placed  them,  unmoved  by  the 
sordid  demands  of  avarice,  or  the  more  splendid 
and  guilty  calls  of  ambition.  The  different  tribes. 
or  kingdoms,  sometimes  make  war  upon  each 
other;  but   they   are  urged  on  to  warfare   by 
European  and  American  merchants,  to  capture 
each  other  to  furnish  slave-ships  with  their  car- 
goes.    With  a  few  paltry  toys,  calculated   to 
catch  the  fancy  of  untutored  barbarians,  they 
induce  the  natives  to  prey  upon  each  other,  and 
exchange  their  countrymen  for  baubles.     After 
doing  this,  a  Christian  merchant,  excuses  him- 
self by  saying,  the  Africans  enslave  each  other! 
This  reasoning  may  be  conclusive  before  a  tri- 
bunal of  slave-merchants,  assembled  in  a  prince- 
ly mansion,  that  owes  its  splendor  to   human 
blood,  but  all  the  courts  of  Europe  have  very 
recently,  by  common  consent,  united  to  wipe  the 


ROBBLNS'  JOURNAL.  149 

tbul  stain  from  the  character  of  their  respective 
nations,  impressed  upon  them  by  this  inhuman, 
detestable,  and  diabolical  traffic.  The  Consti- 
tution of  the  United  States  is  the  first  one  that 
absolutely  prohibited  it. 

Upon  the  western  coast  is  also  situated  the 
country  of  the  JVamacpias,  and  of  the  Hottentots  ; 
which,  together  with  the  colony  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  comprehends  the  southern  point  of 
the  continent,  and  stretching  quite  across  it  to 
the  eastern  side. 

Upon  the  eastern  side  of  this  continent  are  sit- 
uated Inhambane,  Monica,  Sabia,  Sofala,  and  Mo- 
caranga.  Continuing  east,  toward  Cape  Guarda- 
fui  and  the  Straits  of  Babelmandel,  the  kingdoms 
of Mozambique,  Mongolia,  Quiloa,  Montbaza,  Melin- 
da,  and  Monoemngi,  the  republic  of  Brava,  and 
the  kingdom  of  Magadoxa,  are  situated.  Adel'is 
an  extensive  kingdom,  embracing  an  immense 
country  around  Cape  Guardafui,  the  easternmost 
point  of  the  continent.  From  this  Cape,  to  the 
Isthmus  of  Suez,  this  continent  is  bounded  east- 
erly upon  the  Arabian  Gulf  which  reaches  to  that 
place. 

We  have  now  conducted  the  reader  around 
the  Coast  of  this  immense  triangular  peninsula. 
We  have  mentioned  the  principal  countries  as 
they  succeed  each  other,  beginning  at  Egypt, 
and  following  the  coast  along  its  northern,  western^ 
And  eastern  sides,  until  we  again  reached  that 
plnce  situated  near  the  Isthmus  of  Suez.  The 
geographical  knowledge  of  the  reader  will  rea- 
dily enable  him  to  supply  that  minute  informa- 
tion which  our  limits  preclude  us  from  detailing. 

N2 


jjQ  ROBBINS'  journal. 

The  Interior  of  Africa  is  known  more  from 
vague  conjecture  than  accurate  description. 
Marty  hardy  travellers  have,  at  the  hazard  ot 
life,  (see  historical  chapter,)  explored  parts  of 
it.  Abyssinia  has  long  been  celebrated  by  the 
geographer,  and  the  scholar.  The  one  makes  it 
the  region  of  fertility,  having  the  sources  of  the 
Nth.  Within  its  limits — the  other  converts  it  into 
the  region  of  romance.  The  classical  Johnson. 
in  his  t;  Prince  of  Aoyssinia"  gives  us  an  idea  of 
a  distinct  world.  His  Rasselas  has  dressed  this 
kingdom  in  all  the  charms,  which  the  most  fer- 
tile imagination  and  classical  mind  can  impart  to 
a  terrestrial  region. 

The  description  of  the  country  situated  upon 
the  Niger,  under  the  general  name  of  Soudan. 
transports  the  mind  of  the  reader  to  a  region  en- 
tirely the  reverse  Fbis  part  of  the  continent, 
although  watered  by  a  majestic  stream,  and  ha- 
ving an  adjoining  country  of  great  fertility,  seems 
to  be  thnt  region  where  the  wrath  of  Heaven, 
against  man,  is  for  ever  to  be  displayed.  The 
denunciation  Hhe  descendants  of  Ishmael 

stands  yet  univ>.  sed — the  innocent  blood  of 
the  Messiah  yet  rests  upon  the  head  of  his  mur- 
derers,and  here,  in  the GreatDesert  of  'Zahara,?iru\ 
in  other  parts  of  the  interior,  they  both  remain  a 
standing  miracle.  The  knowledge  we  posses- 
of  this  desert  is  principally  derived  from  the 
Christian  slaves,  who  have  there  been  suffering 
witnesses  of  the  manners,  customs,  and  habits  of 
the  wandering  Arabs;  and  famishing  wanderers 
♦  hemselves,  through  the  wicle  spread  desolation 
pervading  the  country  they  inhabit.    It  has  fallen 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  151 

to  the  unhappy  lot  of  Americans  to  furnish  most 
of  the  information  the  world  possesses  upon  this 
suhject.  The  ingenious  Mr.  Cock  has  given  the 
world  the  narrative  of  the  American  sailor,  Ro- 
bert Adams,  and  the  indefatigable  Mr.  Dupuis. 
has,  bv  his  notes,  confirmed  its  accuracy.  The 
crew  of  the  Commerce  seem  to  have  been  design- 
ed to  suffer  themselves,  that  the  world,  through 
them,  might  learn.  It  is  hoped  this  little  volume 
will  add  something  to  the  little  knowledge  al- 
ready obtained  of  the  desert  of  Zohara,  and  the 
western  coast  of  Africa.  As  to  that  portion  ot 
the  interior,  situated  upon  the  equator,  and  with- 
in the  Tropic  of  Capricorn,  even  conjecture  it- 
self has  almost  omitted  to  exercise  its  uncertain 
and  futile  powers.  In  Soudan,  are  included  the 
empires  of  Houssa  and  Tombuctoo,  the  country  erf 
the  Agadez,  the  kingdoms  of  Ludamar,  Bomloiu 
and  Bambouk.  also  the  kingdoms  of  B 'onion,  and 
Darfur.  Nubia  contains  Turkish  Nutria,  Donga- 
la,  nnd  Sennaar.  North  of  the  Zahara  Desert, 
are  situated  the  countries  of  Tafilet*  and  Rilcd-uU 
Gerid,  lying  south  of  the  Barbery  States. 

The  Desert^  Which  comprehend  so  much  of  the 
interior,  are  the  Zahara  or  Great  Western  Desert. 
This  region  of  desolation  and  barrenness  stretch- 
es, by  the  best  authorities,  from  15°  to  31°  N. 
Latitude,  and  from  70°  W.  to  16°  E.  Longitude. 
The  desert  of  Libya  from  25°  to  30°  N.  Latitude, 
and  from  21°  to  30°  E.  Longitude.  The  desert 
of  Barca  is  small. 

The  Mountains  upon  this  continent,  are  in 
ranges.  The  Atlas  has  been  celebrated  from  the 
ages  of  antiquity  to  this  time.     According  to  the 


152  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

fabulous  accounts  of  the  ancients,  it  supports  the 
firmament.  The  inimitable  Addison  resorts  to 
it  as  the  emblem  of  firmness.  He  makes  his 
Cato,  like  that  "  glory  in  height."  These  moun- 
tains extend  frotn  the  western  coast  of  Africa,  to 
the  Gulf  of  Sydra.  They  commence  in  the  28° 
N".  Latitude,  and  extend,  in  a  N.  E.  course,  to 
34°  N.  Latitude  ;  and  from  thence,  in  an  east 
direction,  to  14°  E.  Longitude.  Although  these 
mountains  are  more  celebrated,  being  more 
known,  yet  the  mountains  of  Kong,  in  point  of 
extent,  certainly  exceed  them.  They  stretch 
from  the  river  Gambia,  to  23°  E.  Longitude.  The 
Mountains  of  the  Moon  commence  in  17°  E.  Lon- 
gitude, and  run  east  to  37°  E.  Longitude.  These 
two  ranges  divide  almost  the  whole  continent 
into  northern  and  southern  divisions,  and  are 
situated  between  the  fifth  and  thirteenth  degrees 
of  north  latitude.  The  mountains  of  Lupata  be- 
gin at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Quilimane,  upon  the 
eastern  coast,  and  encircling  the  kingdom  of 
Mocaranga,  extend  to  the  country  of  the  Hotten- 
tots. The  Chrystal  Mountains  are  situated  near 
the  kingdoms  of  Congo,  Angola,  and  Benguela. 
upon  the  western  coast. 

The  Capes  upon  this  continent  are,  upon  ihe 
northern  coast,  or  the  Mediterranean,  Cape  Bon, 
in  Tunis;  and  Cape  Spartcl,  near  Tangier.  Up- 
on the  western  coast,  or  the  Atlantic,  are  Cape 
Geer,  near  Santa  Cruz — Cape  Bajador,  upon 
which  the  Commerce  was  wrecked — Cape  Barbas 
where  the  crew  landed  with  the  boat — Cape 
Mirik —  Cape  Verd — Cape  Mesurada — Cape  Pal- 
mas — Cape  of  the  Three  Points — Cape  Formosa — 


ROBDINS'  JOURNAL.  153 

Cape  Negro — Cape  de  Lasvoltas,  and  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  at  the  southernmost  point  of  the  con- 
tinent. Upon  the  eastern  coast,  or  Indian  ocean, 
are  Capes  Needle,  St.  Mary,  Corientes,  Sebastian. 
Delgado,  Baxas,  and  Cape  Guardafui,  forming  the 
easternmost  point  of  the  continent. 

The  Rivers  of  this  continent,  when  compared 
with  those  of  Asia,  are  diminished  to  rivulets. 
When  the  Ganges  is  recollected,  the  Nile,  and 
the  Niger,  are  almost  forgotten  in  the  majesty 
of  the  former.  When  compared  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, Missouri,  Ohio,  Amazon,  and  La  Plata,  of 
America,  they  then  lose  their  consequence.  The 
Tybei ,  the  Danube,  the  Seine,  the  Tagus,  the  Vis- 
tula,  the  Thames,  and  the  Don  of  Europe,  in  many 
respects,  exceed  them;  but  still,  the  Nile  must 
be  ranked  with  the  great  geographical  and 
classical  streams. 

The  sources  of  this  river  have  been  sought  af- 
ter with  an  assiduity,  unparalleled  in  the  history 
of  the  most  romantic  adventurers.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  its  source  in  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon, 
and  is  known  to  empty  itself,  through  numerous 
mouths,  into  the  Mediterranean,  near  Alexandria, 
after  passing  through  Abyssinia  and  Egypt.  The 
source  of  the  Niger  is  not  certainly  known;  and 
even  the  course  it  runs  is  yet  a  disputed  point 
among  geographers.  Some  contend  that  it  runs 
eastward,  and  empties  itself  into  lakes  in  Wan- 
gam,  in  the  interior  of  the  continent.  Others 
feel  confident  that  its  course  is  westward,  and 
that  it  loses  itself  in  the  regions  of  Guinea.  All 
we  can  say  is,  "  Who  shall  decide  when  Doctors 
disagree  ?"     The  Senegal  has  its  source  not  far 


154  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

from  the  mountains  of  Kong,  and  it  empties  into 
the  Atlantic  ocean  in  about  16°  N.  Latitude. 
The  Nile,  the  Niger,  and  the  Senegal,  annually 
overflow  their  banks,  dispensing  fertility  and 
luxuriance  to  the  country  adjoining  them.  The 
other  principal  streams  of  Africa  are  the  Gambia, 
Morocco,  Sierra  Ltona,  Benin,  Congo,  Zv.ire, 
Coantza,  Manica,  Zambezi,  Coavo,  Zeta,  and  Ma- 
gadoxa. 

The  principal  Islands,  situated  around  this  con- 
tinent, have  a  consequence  in  sacred  and  pro- 
fane history,  almost  equal  to  the  continent  itself. 
In  the  Mediterranean,  are  the  islands  of  Cyprus. 
Candia,  Malta,  Sfciht,  and  Sardinia.  In  the  At- 
lantic are  those  or  Madeira,  the  Canaries,  and 
Cape  Verds.  These  islands  are  well  known  to 
American  navigators,  and  have  greatly  enhanc- 
ed the  wealth  of  American  merchants.  St.  Louis 
is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal.  In  the 
South  Atlantic,  above  1100  miles  from  the  con- 
tinent, is  situated  the  island  of  St.  Helena  ;  well 
known  to  the  navigators  to  India,  and  now  dig- 
nified by  the  residence  of  Napoleon.  It  is  a  small 
island  ;  but  the  modern  Charlemagne  cannot  be- 
come small  by  bei  g  in  a  little  place.  The  Isles 
ofJscension  and  Sl  Matthew  are  nearly  the  same 
distance  from  the  coast.  Near  to  the  coast  are 
situated  Fernando  Po,  Princess,  St.  Thomas,  and 
■flnnobon.  In  the  Indian  ocean,  is  the  important 
island  of  Madagascar,  about  800  miles  in  length, 
and  200  in  breadth.  Also  the  Isle  of  France,  and 
Bourbon,  the  Comoro,  Islands,  Zanzcba  and  Pom- 
ba.  Near  Cape  Guardafui  is  situated  the  island 
of  Socotra. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  155 

The  Straits  adjoining  this  continent  are  those 
of  Babel-Mandel,  uniting  the  Red  Sea  with  the 
Tndian  ocean,  and  Gibraltar,  which  separates  this 
continent  from  Europe. 

The  Gulfs  are — the  Gulf  of  Sydra,  Goletta,  Gui- 
nea, and  Sofala.  The  channel  of  Mozambique,  be- 
tween the  island  of  Madagascar  and  the  coast  of 
Mozambique,  is  the  only  one  belonging  to  this 
continent. 

This  chapter  is  introduced  for  the  double 
purpose  of  relieving  the  reader  from  the  detail 
of  sufferings  and  minute  descriptions,  and  giving 
a  mere  bird's  eye  view  of  Africa. 

CHAP.  XIV. 

Mahomet  Meaarah — Fishing — Cape  Mirik — innocent  deception 
— obstinacy — Barrett — Hon.  William  Wiltshire — calender — 
second  tour  into  the  desert — thanksgiving — description  of  a 
camel — Mode  of  instruction  in  reading  and  ■writing. 

November  5th,  1815. 
MY  new  master  Meaaratis  first  inquiry  was, 
if  I  had  any  clothes  beside  what  I  had  on  ? 
I  told  him  I  had  not,  my  whole  wardrobe  con- 
sisting of  the  piece  of  our  colors,  before  men- 
tioned, and  a  piece  of  the  skin  of  the  gazelle  tied 
round  my  middle.  I  told  him  that  Ganus  had 
taken  from  me  that  day  my  trowsers  and  my 
shoes,  the  latter  being  worn  out  by  travelling. 
He  said  Ganus  was  foonta,  for  taking  them,  and 
that  he  would  regain  them.  He  discovered  the 
same  resentment  that  the  purchaser  of  a  horse 
would,  if  the  seller,  after  the  sale,  should  slily 
take  off  the  halter.  He  recovered  the  shoes  and 


156  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

gave  them  to  me,  and  a  piece  of  blanket  for  my 
middle.  He  might,  among  the  Arabs,  be  called 
a  well  dressed  man ;  for  he  had  a  blue  frock- 
shirt  hanging  below  his  knees,  and  a  good  white 
blanket  put  on  as  described  among  the  Wiled 
Lebdessebah.  He  seemed  to  be  a  man  of  more 
than  ordinary  consequence  among  the  natives  ; 
for,  instead  of  joining  them  in  the  toil  of  fishing, 
he  was  examining  and  purchasing  fish.  He  went 
away  towards  night,  and  left  me  at  one  of  the 
huts  in  the  care  of  an  old  Arab  by  the  name  of 
Abdallah,  who  furnished  me  with  fish  for  food. 
They  were  of  the  size  of  the  mackerel,  nearly 
the  color  of  our  salmon  trouts,  of  the  most  de- 
licious'flavor,  and  very  fat.  They  were  some- 
times taken  in  considerable  abundance.  The 
seine  with  which  they  were  taken  was  made  of 
well  manufactured  twine,  apparently  of  a  spe- 
cies of  grass.  They  consisted  of  meshes  of  a 
small  size,  having  both  a  cork  rope  and  a  lead 
rope.  Through  the  meshes  next  to  the  cork 
rope,  they  run  a  pole  of  six  feet  in  length,  gath- 
ering up  the  seine  from  each  end  to  the  centre. 
This  seine  consists  of  any  number  they  choose 
to  unite  together,  each  single  one  being  about 
twelve  rods  in  length,  and  owned  by  different 
persons.  The  whole  seine  being  gathered  upon 
two  poles,  two  carriers  walk  into  the  water  up 
to  their  arm-pits ;  and  then  one  goes  one  way 
%nd  the  other  another,  slipping  off  the  seine  as 
they  walk.  When  it  is  drawn  out  at  full  length, 
which  is  sometimes  seventy-five  rods,  a  number 
of  other  men  go  out  with  threshing-poles,  and 
drive  the  fish  into  the  seine  as  the  two  men  n* 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  15? 

the  ends  approach  each  other.  They  then  en- 
ter the  circle  made  by  the  seine,  and  continue 
to  thresh  the  water,  until  they  suppose  they  have 
gilled  all  the  fish.  The  separate  owners  then 
take  each  their  net,  and  the  fish  gilled  in  it,  and 
bring  them  ashore.  They  seldom  catch  exceed 
ing  an  hundred  by  one  drawing.  The  fish  are 
of  different  kinds,  although  generally  of  that  firs* 
mentioned.  L'hoot  is  the  name  of  fish  with  the 
Arabs. 

The  bay  where  I  was  now  situated  is  formed 
by  Cape  Mink,  upon  the  south,  and  by  high  sand- 
hills, and  a  few  small  islands  upon  the  north.  At 
ebb-tide,  the  whole  bay,  excepting  a  narrow 
channel,  which  extends  into  it  about  five  miles 
from  the  outermost  part  of  the  Cape,  running 
near  it,  is  entirely  dry.  Within  the  bay,  are  situ- 
ated two  small  islands,  composed  wholly  of 
sand. 

From  the  north  boundary  of  this  bay,  is  a 
point  of  sand  running  into  it  towards  Cape  Mirik, 
nearly  half  its  width,  which  forms  the  inner  bay. 
From  the  termination  of  this  point,  to  the  Cape, 
is  about  five  miles.  From  the  islands,  which 
form  the  mouth  of  the  outer  bay,  upon  the  north 
to  the  Cape,  is  about  twenty  miles.  From  Cape 
Mirik,  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  following  the 
shore,  it  is  about  the  same  distance.  This  Cape 
is  situated,  according  to  the  most  approved 
charts,  in  19°  N.  Latitude  and  17°  W.  Longi- 
tude. I  have  been  thus  particular  in  describing 
this  bay,  so  that  if  any  unfortunate  mariner 
should  hereafter  navigate  die  western  coast  of 
Africa  in  distress,  he  might  make  a  temporary 

o 


158  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

harbour  in  the  channel  running  within  it,  near 
the  Cape,  which  I  think  he  might  do  with  safety, 
excepting  in  a  northwest  and  westerly  wind. 

Upon  the  6th,  after,  the  usual  ceremony  of 
worshipping,  which  was  performed  precisely  in 
the  manner  of  the  Wiled  Lebdessebah,  my  master 
askei  me  of  what  nation  I  was.  It  would  have 
been  in  vain  to  try  to  convince  him  that  I  came 
from  a  continent  three  thousand  miles  to  the 
west,  the  natives  upon  the  desert,  in  general, 
having  not  the  least  idea  of  the  existence  of  the 
American  continent.  I  therefore  told  him  I  was 
Ingksis,  which  they  understand.  He  then  asked, 
Soo-mook  en  tar  ?  what's  your  name  ?  I  told  him 
Robbins.  He  pronounced  it  the  same  as  Ganus, 
Robbinis.  He  asked  if  Inglesis  be  better  than 
Fransah  ?  I  told  him  they  were  both  bono.  He 
continued  to  ask  me  if  I  had  a  father  and  mother, 
brothers  and  sisters,  wife  and  children.  I  an- 
swered all  in  the  affirmative,  meaning  to  affect 
his  feelings  if  he  had  any,  which  cannot  more 
readily  be  done,  than  by  talking  of  wives  and 
children.  I  thought  the  deception  a  very  inno- 
cent one  ;  nor  was  it  altogether  without  effect ; 
as  he  immediately  said,  we  will  go  to  Sweahrah  ; 
it  being  the  same  place  which  we  call  Mogadore, 
and  the  place  where  all  the  ransoms  are  effect- 
ed. He  then  left  me  with  another  man,  with 
whom  1  went  out  to  see  them  fish  and  assist  in 
the  service.  They  start  at  low  water,  and  cross 
over  the  neck  or  point  running  into  the  bay.  to 
the  outer  bay,  carrying  with  them  the  fishing 
utensils  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wood  to  cook 
a  meal  with,  and  a  skin  of  water     They  some- 


ROEBLNS'  JOURNAL.  159 

times  return  as  the  tide  comes  in,  although  they 
generally  continue  out  for  two  tides,  lodging  up- 
on the  point  of  land,  and  cooking  their  fish  upon 
the  sand.  Each  one  has  a  small  net  to  carry 
hence  the  fish  that  are  taken.  I  was  loaded 
with  them,  and  obliged  to  transport  them  as 
much  as  seven  miles  through  the  deep  sand, 
sinking  often  to  my  knees.  I  sometimes  sunk 
down  with  excessive  fatigue,  and  was  compelled 
to  stop ;  while  the  natives,  possessing  strength 
almost  beyond  human,  would  bound  over  the 
sand  with  the  greatest  ease.  For  this  I  >ecame 
an  object  of  their  scorn,  and  sometimes  of  their 
resentment.  Upon  returning  to  the  tents  ir  huts, 
some  fish  are  cooked.  What  remain,  ar  e  dress- 
ed by  splitting  open  the  backs,  and  taking  out 
the  inwards  ;  then  gashing  them  cross-w^se,  and 
laying  them  out  to  dry.  They  rarely  become 
tainted  although  they  are  never  salted.  Indeed, 
salt  is  scarcely  ever  used  by  Arabs  in  pi  eser^ing 
or  cooking  any  thing.  During  the  two  p  .-eceding 
months,  I  had  not  used  a  particle  of  it.  rHle  rays 
of  the  sun  are  so  powerful,  that  fresh  neat  and 
fresh  fish  are  dried  so  suddenly  that  mtrefac- 
tion  is  always  prevented ;  unless,  which  is  more 
generally  the  case,  it  is  prevented  by  tne  imme- 
diate consumption  of  all  the  meat  anc.  fish  that 
falls  in  the  way  of  the  natives.  At  thi^  place,  I 
saw  many  black  Africans,  from  which  \  conclu- 
ded we  were  not  far  from  the  Senegal  river. 

We  remained  at  this  bay5  and  at  thiy  employ- 
ment, until  the  9th.  I  began  to  think  I  was 
about  to  become  a  slavish  fisherman  during  life ; 
and  by  affecting  ignorance  of  every  part  of  the 


160  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

duty  imposed  upon  me,  and  shewing  a  good 
portion  of  obstinacy,  the  natives  soon  found  that 
the  small  benefit  they  derived  from  my  labour 
cost  more  than  it  would  fetch.  Upon  the  last 
mentioned  day,  as  I  was  returning  with  a  load  of 
fish,  I  discovered  a  number  of  the  natives  com- 
ing towards  us  in  the  bay.  We  stopped,  and 
concealed  our  fish  as  well  as  we  could.  The 
natives  came  to  us ;  and  although  I  had  aban- 
doned all  ideas  of  ever  again  seeing  any  of  my 
ship-mates,  I  recognized  Barrett  among  them.  It 
was  nearly  two  months  since  I  had  seen  him. 
We  could  hardly  persuade  ourselves  that  we 
were  actually  in  each  others  presence. — Barrett 
had  become  fat,  and  looked  as  hearty  as  a  Yan- 
kee seaman  need  to.  He  said  he  had  been  sta- 
tioned at  a  fish-place  about  seven  miles  north  of 
this  place,  for  three  weeks.  He  had  been  out 
into  the  deserts  with  his  master's  brother,  and 
had  been  retaken,  and  was  now  returning  with 
him.  He  said  he  had  learned  nothing  of  any  oi 
the  crew,  excepting  Mr.  Williams,  since  he  saw 
trie  upon  the  14th  of  September.  I  communica- 
ted to  him  the  good  fortune  of  Capt.  Riley,  Mr. 
Savage,  Clarke,  Burns,  and  Horace.  He  said  ho 
had  but  little  hopes  of  getting  clear  himself,  al- 
though he  could  not  conceive  why  the  cursed 
creatures  wanted  to  keep  him,  as  he  was  not  oi 
the  least  service  to  them.  I  told  him  that  was 
the  great  grounds  of  my  hope;  and  advised 
him  to  follow  my  present  example,  in  being  as 
useless  as  possible,  to  be  ignorant  and  obsti- 
nate ;  and  in  this  way,  induce  them  to  carry  us 
<o  the  great  place  of  sale,  and  of  redemption — 


ROBBING  JOURNAL.  1G1 

Mogadore.  I  inquired  after  Mr.  Williams.  He 
told  me  he  was  much  better  than  when  last  saw 
him ;  that  his  health  and  spirits  had  ;»een  in  a 
considerable  degree  restored  ;  that  they  both 
continued  slaves  to  their  first  master,  and  would 
probably  remain  with  him.  Our  interview  was 
but  a  short  one. 

I  have  but  little  doubt,  that  Mr.  Williams  and 
Barrett,  if  living,  still  remain  at  the  same  fish- 
place.  This  is  not  a  mere  conjecture  ;  for  at 
the  time  of  my  redemption  at  Mogadore,  sixteen 
months  after  this  time,  the  Hon.  William  Will- 
shire  informed  me,  that  he  had  learned  that 
i  wo  Christian  slaves  were  upon  an  island  near  a 
fish-place,  far  to  the  southward,  upon  the  west- 
ern coast  of  Africa;  that  he  had  sent  an  express, 
to  find  them,  if  possible,  and  bring  them  to  him 
that  they  might  be  redeemed.  The  name  of 
this  gentleman  will  hereafter  be  mentioned  in 
this  narration ;  but  I  cannot,  even  here,  omit  to 
express  my  highest  admiration  of  his  exalted 
character.  After  we  returned  to  the  huts,  I  as- 
sured my  master  that  I  could  not  sustain  life  in 
the  employment  I  was  in,  and  he  assured  me 
that  I  should,  the  next  day,  go  off  with  him. 

At  about  this  time,  I  dispensed  with  the  use 
of  my  string  by  which  1  was  enabled,  in  count- 
ing the  knots  I  daily  tied  therein,  to  ascertain 
the  day  of  the  month  and  of  my  bondage ;  and 
as  no  possible  benefit  can  be  derived  from  a 
continuation  of  dates,  excepting  that  of  months, 
or  general  periods,  I  shall  omit  them.  I  had 
not  at  this  time,  from  either  the  Lebdessebah,  or 

Wiled  T?Uim%  learned  whether  they  had  any  re- 
02 


j62  ROBBINS   JOURNAL. 

gular  manner  of  keeping  the  smaller  divisions  of 
time,  as  hours,  days,  weeks  or  months ;  but  I 
afterwards  became  familiar  with  their  calendar, 
when  I  became  stationary  at  Wadinoon.  The 
Arabs,  at  this  place,  are  steady  residents ;  as 
they  have  no  means  of  travelling,  neither  tents 
nor  camels,  but  have  there  erected  the  small 
huts  or  wigwams  before  mentioned.  They  have 
among  them  considerable  flocks  of  goats  from 
which  they  obtain  some  milk,  and  small  asses 
with  which  they  transport  fresh  water  for  a  short 
distance.  These  animals  subsist  upon  the  coarse 
sea  grass  that  grows  within  the  bay,  and  the 
small  quantity  of  bushes  that  grow  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  it.  I  never  saw  either  ass  or  goat  upon 
the  deserts,  as  they  could  not  there  subsist  with- 
out a  constant  supply  of  water.  The  camel,  as 
is  well  known,  can  subsist  without  that  article 
from  twenty  to  thirty  days,  from  the  immense 
quantity  they  receive  into  the  chest  at  the  wa- 
tering places.  There  are,  I  learned,  a  number 
of  these  fish-places  upon  the  coast  from  Cape 
Mirik  to  Cape  Blanco,  which  are  all  occupied 
as  the  one  just  described  by  stationary  Arabs. 
The  wandering  Arabs  are  constantly  resorting 
to  them  for  supplies  offish,  and  at  the  same  pla- 
ces can  furnish  themselves  with  water. 

Having  remained  at  this  fish-place  for  five 
days,  my  master  Meaarah  took  me  off  with  him 
to  traverse  once  more  the  desert  of  Zahara.  He 
commenced  by  travelling  in  a  southeast  direc- 
tion, and  upon  the  first  night  readied  his  own 
tent.  We  had  a  very  fleet  camel,  and  having 
started  at  day-light,  and  riding  tifl  dark  without 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  163 

dismounting,  we  must  have  travelled  at  least 
sixty  miles.  Upon  reaching  the  tent,  I  found 
that  of  my  master  and  those  situated  near  it 
were  much  larger  and  better  than  I  had  ever 
before  seen.  My  master's  return  was  welcomed 
by  every  demonstration  of  joy.  This  was  in- 
creased by  seeing  a  quantity  offish,  and  carried 
to  the  highest  pitch  when  they  found  me  there 
as  a  slave.  The  whole  family  seemed  anxious 
to  make  my  situation  as  comfortable  as  possible ; 
some  offered  me  fish ;  some  milk,  and  some  wa- 
ter; and  the  joy  of  the  party  was  so  excessive, 
that  they  seemed  to  "  take  no  thought  for  the 
morrow,"  having  devoured  almost  every  eatable 
thing  in  their  possession.  Witnessing  the  ani- 
mation and  enjoyment  of  this  family  of  barbari 
ans,  my  mind  was  immediately  transported  to 
the  regions  of  civilization.  It  was  about  the 
season  of  a  Connecticut  Thanksgiving.  In  imagi- 
nation, I  saw  the  festive  board  surrounded  by 
my  refined,  grateful  and  happy  friends.  I  could 
see  the  eyes  of  parents,  beaming  with  benignity 
upon  their  visiting  children,  blessing  heaven  for 
the  gift  of  them,  as  well  as  for  the  luxuries  that 
loaded  their  hospitable  board,  rendering  thankb 
that  they  had  been  blessed  "  in  their  basket  and 
in  their  store,"  and  that  they  had  been  preserv- 
ed once  more  to  form  the  happy  family.  My 
heart  was  near  burs' ing  at  this  recollection.  Al- 
though I  was  not  destitute  of  gratitude  for  an  un- 
expected  supply,  1  was  compelled  to  reflect  that 
all  my  enjoyments  depended  upon  the  capricious 
whims  of  an  Arab,  and  that  a  transition  from  en- 
joyment to  the  lowest  wretchedness  might  befal 


,64  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

me  in  the  next  twenty-four  hours.     Well  might  I 

exclaim,  "  hard,  hard  is  my  fate." 

Upon  the  next  morning,  I  found  my  master's 
family  consisted  of  his  wife,  Fatima ;  one  son, 
Adulhth ;  one  daughter,  named  Tilah;  and  an- 
other, Murmooah ;  his  brother,  about  twenty, 
Mid-Mohamote.  Another  small  tent  was  occu- 
pied by  F&timafs  mother,  also  named  Fatima,  and 
her  brother,  named  Ilia-Mecca.  They  also  had 
a  teacher  in  the  family  supported  by  Meaarah. 
wholly  without  labour,  excepting  the  labour  of 
teaching  the  family.  His  name  was  Mahomet. 
They  also  had  a  black  female  slave,  of  the  Gui- 
nea tribe.  My  master  was  possessed  of  sixty- 
eight  camels  ;  some  of  which  were  of  the  most 
superior  kind.  Six  of  them  gave  milk,  furnish- 
ing a  tolerable  supply  for  the  family.  As  is  al- 
ways the  case  with  a  Christian  slave,  my  portion 
was  less  than  that  of  a  member  of  the  family. 

Although  in  many  different  publications,  the 
camel  is  minutely  described,  so  important  an 
animal  must  not  be  passed  over  without  a  brief 
description  here.  The  natives,  as  a  general 
name,  call  camels  LiUahilts  :  the  male,  Izhmacl : 
the  female,  Naig.  The  male  camel  of  the  lar- 
gerkind  is  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  hands  high. 
He  measures  from  the  nose,  to  the  root  of  the 
tail,  about  eleven  feet.  The  body  is  deepest 
from  the  shoulder  to  the  brisket,  and,  unless  re- 
cently filled  with  water,  will  girth  the  most  just 
back  of  the  fore  legs.  This  admeasurement  is 
not  meant  to  include  the  hump,  that  being  a 
kind  of  excrescence  rising  eight  or  ten  inches 
above  the  back  bone.     The  body  gradually  di- 


R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL.  16£ 

minislies  in  size  until  it  comes  to  the  loins,  which 
are  very  smafl  for  so  large  an  animal.  The  neck 
is  very  low  upon  the  breast,  growing  out  between 
the  shoulder  blades;  it  then  descends  a  little, 
then  rises  almost  perpendicularly,  being  from 
the  lower  part  of  the  bow  of  the  neck,  to  the  top 
of  the  head,  about  five  feet.  The  head  is  car- 
ried horizontally ;  the  nose,  top  of  the  head, 
and  hump,  making  a  direct  line.  The  eyes  arc 
very  prominent,  and  so  placed  upon  the  side  of 
the  head  as  to  discern  objects  in  every  direction. 
They  have  a  peculiar  mildness,  and  indicate 
great  sagacity  for  an  animal.  The  ear  is  very 
small,  and  stands  nearly  erect.  The  limbs  are 
straight  and  smooth,  but  have  large  strong  joints. 
The  hoof  is  the  greatest  curiosity  in  this  animal. 
It  is  soft  and  yields  to  the  slightest  pressure, 
having  a  very  small  split  in  the  fore  part  of  it, 
the  points  of  which  are  of  a  harder  substance. 
It  has  before  been  mentioned  that  these  feet  or 
hoofs  are  remarkably  calculated  to  travel  in 
deep  sand  and  upon  the  hardest  stones.  The 
tail  is  smooth  and  short,  and  is  carried  between 
the  legs.  The  hair  of  the  camel,  excepting 
what  grows  upon  the  hump  and  neck,  is  fine, 
short,  and  smooth,  having  a  very  handsome  ap- 
pearance. That  upon  the  hump  and  neck  is 
coarser  and  curly,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches 
in  length.  This  long  hair  is  sheared  off  annual- 
ly, and  with  it  the  natives  make  tent-cloth  and 
coarse  clothing.  Their  colour  is  from  white  to 
a  reddish  brown.  He  is  an  animal  of  the  great- 
est docility  ;  lies  down  and  rises  at  the  com- 
mand of  his  master:    at  the  same   command 


166  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

slackens  or  hastens  his  pace.  When  alive,  he 
transports  his  master,  his  baggage,  his  food, 
drink,  and  slaves,  from  one  part  of  fhe  desert  to 
another;  when  dead,  every  particle  of  him  fur- 
nishes food,  excepting  his  bones,  and  his  hide 
furnishes  leather  for  almost  every  purpose.  In- 
deed, it  is  melancholy  to  reflect  that  such  a  no- 
ble animal  should  subserve  the  purposes  of  the 
most  debased  of  men. 

In  the  morning,  after  reaching  the  tent  of  my 
master,  the  camels  were  distributed  around  in 
the  adjoining  country,  and  were  generally  in  the 
keeping  of  Ilia  Mecca.  The  country  had  about 
the  same  appearance  as  those  parts  of  the  de- 
sert so  often  mentioned ;  small  sand  hills  and 
shallow  vallies.  The  bushes  were  \ery  small 
and  thinly  scattered,  and  it  required  a  conside- 
rable extent  of  it  to  recruit  the  camels.  We  re- 
mained stationary  at  this  place  for  six  days. 
During  this  time  my  master  seemed  generally 
inclined  to  remain  in,  or  near  his  tent.  At  about 
sun-rise,  the  Mahometan  service  was  invariably 
performed  by  the  whole  family.  I  was  urgently 
invited  to  join  in  the  service,  but,  adhering  to  my 
previous  resolution,  I  always  declined  it,  think- 
ing it  sacrilege  to  offer  up  worship  to  a  prophet 
whose  followers  shew  so  little  of  humanity  in 
their  practice.  The  teacher  generally  took  the 
lead,  in  this  service  ;  their  teachers  being  gene- 
rally of  the  Mahometan  priesthood.  He  had  a 
number  of  very  old  volumes  into  which  I  often 
looked,  but  the  letters  and  characters  were  as 
unintelligible  to  me  as  the  hand-writing  upon 
l he  wall  was  to  Belshazzar.  When  he  began  to 


ROBBLYS*  JOURNAL.  167 

read,  it  was  at  what  I  should  call  the  end  of  the 
volume,  reading  from  right  to  left. 

The  mode  of  instructing  the  children  in  read- 
ing, is  by  writing  with  a  reed  a  few  characters 
upon  a  smooth,  white  board,  about  the  size  of  a 
cyphering  slate.  He  then,  with  an  audible 
voice,  pronounces  them,  and  calls  upon  the  child 
to  do  the  same.  In  this  manner  the  child  is 
taught  their  alphabet.  He  then  writes  out 
words ;  spelling  them,  and  the  children  follow 
his  example.  From  this  lie  proceeds  to  write 
sentences,  and  teaches  the  children  to  read 
them.  After  they  have  progressed  thus  far,  the 
whole  of  the  children,  under  instruction,  are  fur- 
nished each  with  a  board,  and  read  together 
aloud,  keeping  very  exact  time.  The  teacher 
corrects  them  when  in  an  error,  and  administers 
punishment  when  obstinate.  These  sentences 
they  are  taught  to  commit  to  memory,  and  to  re- 
peat without  the  assistance  of  the  board.  Ma- 
ny of  the  sentences,  although  I  could  not  well 
understand  the  language,  were  the  same  as  I  of- 
ten heard  repeated  over  in  their  religious  cere- 
monies. From  the  antiquated  appearance  of  the 
volume  from  which  they  were  taken ;  from  the 
same  being  used  in  worship,  and  from  the  pecu- 
liar solemnity  of  the  teacher  and  the  pupil. 
while  repeating  them,  but  little  doubt  can  exist 
but  that  they  were  taken  from  the  Koran  in  the 
original  tongue.  This  is  the  universal  method 
of  teaching  children,  when  they  are  taught  at 
all,  upon  the  desert,  and  at  the  large  schools  at 
Wad  i  no  on. 

Writing  is  taught  by  drawing  upon  the  board 


168  ROBBING  JOURNAJL. 

a  few  single  characters.  The  pen  is  made  with 
a  piece  of  flat  reed,  hollowed  upon  the  inside 
to  contain  the  ink,  and  sharpened  to  a  single 
point.  The  child  is  taught  to  imitate  the  cha- 
racters set  as  a  copy.  Children  at  twelve,  who 
have  been  taught  regularly,  can  read  and  write 
with  considerable  facility.  When  at  rest,  the 
hours  of  instruction  are  three  hours  very  early 
in  the  morning,  and  three  toward  night.  When 
upon  a  journey,  the  lesson  given  must  be  learn- 
ed either  before  or  after  the  day's  journey,  the 
teacher  being  extremely  strict ;  although  the 
children  seem  to  consider  their  task  as  a  plea- 
sure rather  than  a  burthen.  This  was  the  first 
instruction  I  ever  saw  given  among  the  Arabs. 
During  my  slavery  with  the  Lebdessebah,  I  never 
saw  even  a  book,  and  never  witnessed  the  least 
attempt  among  them  to  impart  instruction.  Nor 
did  I  while  with  the  Wiled  D'lcim,  ever  see  but 
one  instructer  besides  this  one  in  MeaaraK's 
family. 

My  master,  during  the  time  we  were  station- 
ary, frequently  endeavoured  to  initiate  me  into 
the  mysteries  of  tending  camels.  As  I  have 
mentioned  before,  I  found  it  best  to  perform  the 
common  and  ordinary  duties  of  a  slave  with  ap- 
parent cheerfulness  and  alacrity ;  but,  as  I  did 
at  the  fish-place,  I  was  determined  to  resist  any 
attempt  to  make  me  a  camel  tender,  or  to  im- 
pose upon  me  any  steady  duty  in  the  perform- 
ance of  which  I  might  raise  my  value  in  their  es- 
timation, as  this  would  probably  lengthen  my 
slavery ;  and  in  the  same  proportion  as  I  be- 
came useless  to  them,  would  be  their  desire  to 


nOBMNfl'  JOURNAL.  169 

get  rid  of  me,  and  increase  the  chances  of  my 
redemption.  I  however  went  out  with  my  ma? 
ter  one  day,  and  he  tried  to  instruct  me  how  to 
assist  Illa-Mccca  in  camel  keeping.  Although  if 
was  nothing  but  standing  on  elevated  ground, 
keeping  sight  of  the  beasts,  and  driving  them 
back  when  straying  off,  yet  I  convinced  my  roas- 
ter that  I  could  not  possibly  learn  the  duty,  and 
would  not  perform  it.  He  did  not,  at  this  time- 
attempt  again  to  impose  it  upon  me. 

CHAP.  XV. 

A  long  journey—Porter — locusts,  mode  of  catching,  cooking, 
and  eating  them — narrow  escape — Mahommedan  teacher- 
blacksmith  upon  the  desert — salt-bed— debility  approaching  to 
death. 

AFTER  the  expiration  of  six  days,  we  started 
upon  a  journey,  and  continued  generally  to  tra- 
vel,  upon  an  average,  forty  miles  a  day.  This 
we  continued  to  do  for  eight  days.  It  is  impos 
sible  to  describe  the  different  courses  we  tra- 
velled, as  they  were  constantly  shifting ;  but  the 
general  course  led  us  easterly  into  the  interior. 
To  describe  that  portion  of  the  Zahara  desert 
over  which  we  passed  would  be  but  a  repetition, 
of  what  was  said  when  travelling  with  the  Wiled 
Lebdessebah.  For  some  distance  the  country 
vrould  have  gentle  hills  and  shallow  vallies,  in 
termixed  with  sand  and  stones;  and  then  it 
would  present  to  you  a  plain,  apparently  with- 
out limits,  terminated  on  every  part  by  the  hori 
zon.  We  subsisted,  during  this  time,  upon  ca- 
mel's milk  and  water,  added  to  a  few  snaite 
P 


|70  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

found  upon  the  passage.  We  were  frequently 
met  by  tents,  and  large  droves  of  camels ;  and 
almost  every  passenger  of  respectable  appear- 
ance paid  attention  to  my  master  Meaarah  and 
mistress  Fatima.  She  received  many  visits,  and 
was  particularly  attentive  to  her  guests.  She, 
and  indeed  all  the  females  belonging  <o  this  fa- 
mily, were  elegantly  dressed  in  the  Arab  style  ; 
having  a  redundancy  of  the  most  beautiful  shells 
suspended  from  their  braided  hair,  which  was 
always  covered  with  a  blue  turban.  Their  blan- 
kets were  of  a  superior  kind. 

Upon  the  eighth  day  of  travelling,  we  came  to 
an  immense  country  of  sand.  At  night  a  camel 
was  slaughtered  in  the  same  manner  as  before 
described  ;  some  part  of  it  was  sliced  thinly  and 
dried,  and  lasted  for  two  or  three  days.  Our 
course  was  now  shifted  a  little  to  the  northward, 
still  carrying  us  into  the  interior.  After  travel- 
ling for  four  days  we  came  to  a  small  valley  or 
basin,  into  which  considerable  water  had  set- 
tled from  a  recent  rain.  Our  tent  was  pitched 
upon  the  rising  ground,  overlooking  it.  A  great 
number  of  tents  were  situated  in  the  valley, 
some  belonging  to  the  Wiled  Lebdessebah,  and 
some  to  the  Wiled  D'leim,  these  two  tribes,  at 
this  time,  being  at  peace  with  each  other.  Among 
them  was  Porter's  master,  and  Porter  himself. 
He  had  regained  his  health,  and,  like  me,  enter- 
tained some  hopes  that  we  might  escape  from 
bondage.  He  asked  me  the  season  of  the  year, 
having  entirely  forgotten  it.  I  told  him  it  was 
the  last  of  November.  In  and  about  this  valley 
were  great  flights  of  locusts.     During  the  day- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  171 

time,  they  are  flying  around  very  thick  in  the  at- 
mosphere, but  the  copious  dews  and  chilly  air, 
in  the  night  season,  render  them  unable  to  fly, 
and  they  settle  down  upon  the  bushes.  It  was 
the  constant  employ  of  the  natives  in  the  night 
season  to  gather  these  insects  from  the  bushes, 
which  they  did  in  great  quantities.  My  master's 
family,  each  with  a  small  bag,  went  out  the  first 
night  upon  this  employ,  carrying  a  very  large 
bag  to  bring  home  the  fruits  of  their  labour.  My 
mistress  Fatima,  however,  and  the  two  little 
children  remained  in  the  tent.  I  declined  this 
emj)loy,  and  retired  to  rest  under  the  large  tent. 
The,  next  day,  the  family  returned  loaded  with 
locusts,  and  judging  from  the  quantity  produced 
by  the  eye,  there  must  have  been  as  many  as 
fifteen  bushels.  This  may  appear  to  be  a  large 
quantity  to  be  gathered  in  so  short  a  time*;  but 
it  is  hardly  worth  mentioning  when  compared 
with  the  loads  of  then  gathered  sometimes  in 
the  more  fertile  part  of  the  country,  over  which 
they  pass,  leaving  a  track  of  desolation  behind 
them.  But  as  they  were  the  first,  in  any  consi- 
derable quantity,  that  I  had  seen,  and  the  first  I 
had  seen  cooked  and  eaten,  I  mention  it  in  this 
place ;  hoping  hereafter  to  give  my  readers 
more  particular  information  concerning  these 
wonderful  and  destructive  insects  ;  which,  from 
the  days  of  Moses  to  this  time,  have  been  con- 
sidered by  Jews  and  Mahometans  as  the  most 
severe  judgment  which  heaven  can  inflict  upon 
man.  But  whatever  the  Egyptians  might  have 
thought  in  ancient  days,  or  the  Moors  and  Arabs 
in  those  of  modern  date,  the  Arabs  who  are  com- 


172  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

pelled  to  inhabit  the  desert  of  Zahara,  so  far 
from  considering  a  flight  of  locusts  as  a  judg- 
ment upon  them  for  their  transgressions,  wel- 
come their  approach  as  the  means,  sometimes,  of 
saving  them  from  famishing  with  hunger.  The 
whole  that  were  brought  to  the  tent  at  this  time 
were  cooked  when  alive,  as  indeed  they  always 
are,  for  a  dead  locust  is  never  cooked.  The 
manner  of  cooking  is,  by  digging  a  deep  hole  in 
the  ground,  building  a  fire  at  the  bottom,  as  be- 
fore described,  and  filling  it  with  wood.  After 
it  is  heated  as  hot  as  is  possible,  the  coals  and 
embers  are  taken  out,  and  they  prepare  to  fill 
the  cavity  with  the  locusts,  confined  in  a  large 
bag.  A  sufficient  number  of  natives  hold  the  bag 
perpendicularly  over  the  hole,  the  mouth  of  it 
being  near  the  surface  of  the  ground.  A  number 
stand- around  the  hole  with  sticks.  The  mouth 
of  the  bag  is  then  opened,  and  it  is  shaken  with 
great  force,  the  locusts  falling  into  the  hot  pit. 
and  the  surrounding  natives  throwing  sand  up- 
on them  (to  prevent  them  from  flying  off.  The 
mouth  of  the  hole  is  then  covered  with  sand,  and 
another  fire  built  upon  the  top  of  it.  In  this 
manner  they  cook  all  they  have  on  hand,  and 
dig  a  number  of. holes  sufficient  to  accomplish  it. 
each  containing  about  five  bushels.  They  re- 
main in  the  hole  until  they  become  sufficient^ 
cooled  to  take  out  by  the  hand.  They  are  then 
picked  out,  and  :hrown  upon  tent-cloths,  or 
blankets,  and  remain  in  the  sun  to  dry,  where 
they  must  be  watched  with  the  utmost  care,  to 
prevent  the  live  locusts  from  devouring  them,  it 
a  flight  happen  to  be  passing  at  the  time.  When 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  173 

they  are  perfectly  dried,  which  is  not  done  short 
of  two  or  three  days,  they  are  slightly  pounded 
and  pressed  into  bags  or  skins,  ready  for  trans- 
portation. To  prepare  them  to  eat,  they  are 
pulverized  in  mortars,  and  mixed  with  water 
sufficient  to  make  a  kind  of  dry  pudding.  They 
are,  however,  sometimes  eaten  singly  without 
pulverizing,  by  breaking  off  the  head,  wings, 
and  legs,  and  swallowing  the  remaining  part. 
In  whatever  manner  they  are  eaten,  they  are 
nourishing  food.  All  the  while  we  remained  at 
this  valley,  the  natives  were  employed  in  gather- 
ing and  cooking  locusts.  I  cannot  omit  an  inci- 
dent at  this  valley,  which  came  nigh  to  ending 
my  slavery  and  my  existence.  1  was  command- 
ed to  sling  a  large  water  goat  skin  upon  my 
back,  and  carry  it  to  the  tent.  Upon  letting  it 
down  when  1  arrived,  my  fatigue,  and  its  great 
weight,  occasioned  it  to  fall  and  burst  open.  My 
master,  with  savage  ferocity,  ran  toward  me  with 
an  uplifted  Arab  axe,  and,  aiming  at  my  head, 
would,  without  the  least  doubt,  have  severed  it 
from  my  body,  had  not  my  mistress  Fatima,  leap- 
ed between  him  and  me.  and  warded  off  the  in- 
tended blow.  From  this  time  my  master,  who 
had  before  shewn  some  tokc  img,  began 

to  exercise  toward  me  a  systematic  cruelty. 

We  remained  at  this  valley  until  the  water  in 
it  was  dried  up,  and  then  ma<i e  preparations  for 
departure.  I  often  saw  Porter,  while  there,  and 
left  him  there  when  I  was  taken  off  We  travel- 
led to  the  northwest  from  day  to  day.  I  began 
to  grow  weak,  and  my  flesh  wasted  away.  I  had 
nothing  to  eat  but  fresh  locusts,  there  being  no 

P2 


i/4  R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL. 

rsalt  with  the  family.  The  blanket  around  my 
middle,  hanging  down  as  low  as  my  knees,  wore 
ihe  flesh  entirely  off  from  the  cords  of  my  legs, 
leaving  them  entirely  bare.  This  was  occasioned 
by  constant  travelling.  After  sleeping  upon  the 
sand,  a  few  hours,  and  rising  upon  my  legs,  the 
blood  gushed  out  of  my  excoriated  and  dried 
flesh.  My  master  viewed  this  with  the  indiffer- 
ence of  a  savage,  when  witnessing  the  contor 
lions  of  his  victim.  After  travelling  with  great 
rapidity  for  ten  days  in  this  manner,  we  arrived 
upon  the  coast,  after  passing  the  dried  bed  of  a 
considerable  river.  This,  from  a  careful  exami- 
nation of  the  best  charts,  I  feel  confident  was  the 
river  St.  Cyprian,  near  which  we  first  landed  in 
the  boat.  What  confirmed  this  opinion  was,  the 
coast,  in  its  general  appearance,  was  very  simi- 
lar to  that  upon  which  we  landed. 

The  time  of  our  arrival  there  must  have  been 
about  the  10th  of  December.  Here  our  tent  was 
pitched  for  the  first  time,  since  we  left  the  valley 
of  locusts.  We  remained  here  but  one  night,  ha- 
ving obtained  a  supply  of  water.  We  then  tra- 
velled two  days,  in  a  northeast  direction,  and 
pitched  our  teats.  The  country  was  of  the 
same  general  description,  as  the  other  parts  oi 
the  desert.  We  remained  here  six  days.  The 
teacher,  during  the  whole  time  I  had  been  a  slave 
10  the  cruel  Meaarah,  assiduously  continued  his 
instruction,  and  maintained  his  dignity  with  the 
whole  family.  Even  my  master  stood  in  awe 
before  him.  He  often,  in  the  most  urgent  man- 
ner, pressed  upon  me  the  necessity  of  renounc- 
ing the  heresy  of  Christianity,  and  becoming  a 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  175 

good  Mussulman.  He  manifested  the  most 
sovereign  contempt  for  the  Christian  religion, 
and  often  denounced  me  as  a  kellup  en-sahrau.  He 
expressed  the  utmost  horror  at  the  idea  of  eat- 
ing pork  ;  considering  a  hog  as  possessed  of  the 
devil,  and  those  who  eat  it,  as  possessed  of  him 
also.  He  laid  every  inducement  before  me  to 
espouse  his  faith ;  promising  me  the  possession 
of  wealth,  and  power,  and  wives  upon  earth,  and 
eternal  felicity  and  sensual  enjoyment  in  para- 
dise with  the  divine  prophet  MahommecL 

While  here,  I  saw,  for  the  first  time,  an  Arab 
blacksmith.  He  has  his  anvil  carried  upon  the 
camel.  It  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter  upon 
the  top,  tapering  down  to  a  point.  This  he  puts 
into  a  piece  of  a  block,  the  largest  he  can  find 
upon  the  deserts,  where  nothing  but  small  tim- 
ber grows.  His  fire  is  built  in  a  shallow  hole, 
dug  in  the  ground,  into  which  he  puts  his  coal. 
His  bellows  is  made  of  a  goat-skin,  with  a  han- 
dle fixed  to  the  top  of  it.  As  he  pulls  the  handle 
up,  the  air  enters  it;  as  he  forces  it  down,  the 
air  is  pressed  out  at  the  point  of  it  into  the 
coals,  which  blows  them  up  to  a  fire.  He  then 
puts  in  his  iron,  which  is  soon  heated.  He  then, 
with  a  clumsy  sort  of  hammer,  draws  out  the 
piece  of  iron  in  his  hand,  to  any  shape  which  is 
necessary.  With  this,  he  makes  irons  for  a  sad- 
dle, an  axe,  or  any  other  iron  tool  which  the 
Arabs  wish  to  make  use  of;  the  whole  being 
made  in  the  most  bungling  manner.  In  this  way. 
he  makes  the  needles  with  which  the  natives  sew 
their  tent  cloths  together,  and  do  all  the  neces- 
sary sewing  in  the  family,  unless,  by  accident. 


176  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

they  can  procure  needles  better  manufactured. 
They  make  their  coal  by  digging  a  hole  in  the 
ground,  and  throwing  into  it  the  largest  wood 
they  can  find.     This  is  burned  into  charcoal. 

The  locust  food  was  nearly  exhausted.  The 
water  grew  short,  and  the  camels  gave  but  little 
milk ;  and  I  hardly  had  a  sufficiency  of  suste- 
nance to  support  life.  My  debility  and  weak- 
ness was  such,  as  almost  to  deprive  me  of  the 
power  of  walking  about.  Upon  the  last  day  my 
master  remained  at  this  place,  I  wandered  slow 
ly  off  to  a  neighbouring  tent,  where  I  was  sup- 
plied with  some  water.  The  owner  of  the  tent 
was  an  old  and  rich  Arab,  having  a  tent  abun- 
dantly furnished.  He  shewed  me  pieces  of  mo- 
ney of  silver  and  gold,  and  asked  me  my  opinion 
of  their  value.  Among  them  were  doubloons. 
I  told  him  one  doubloon  was  worth  sixteen  of  the 
dollars  which  he  shewed  me.  He  told  me  they 
were  taken  out  of  a  sfeaah  (a  vessel)  upon  the 
coast.  As  some  of  the  money  was  in  doubloons, 
and  as  we  had  no  such  money  aboard  the  Com- 
merce, I  concluded  some  other  American  or 
European  vessel  might  have  been  lately  wreck- 
ed upon  the  coast. 

Upon  the  next  morning  our  tents  were  struck, 
and  preparations  were  made  for  a  journey.  I 
knew  not  how  I  could  endure  it ;  but  I  was  com- 
pelled to  travel,  and  run  the  risk  of  dying  with 
fatigue,  or  remain  and  perish  with  hunger.  We 
travelled  in  an  eastern  direction  ;  and  upon  the 
first  day's  journey  we  passed  a  small  deep  val- 
ley, situated  upon  our  right.  The  bottom  of  it 
was  filled  with  water ;  but  as  my  master  told  me 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  177 

it  was  salt,  I  did  not  attempt  to  drink  it.  Upon 
the  borders  of  the  basin  that  contained  the  wa- 
ter, was  lying,  in  great  quantities,  very  clear  and 
white  salt.  It  excited  my  astonishment,  as  we 
were,  at  least,  one  hundred  miles  from  the  sea. 
If  a  conjecture  might  be  ventured,  there  must 
have  been  a  subterranean  passage  from  the  sea 
to  this  valley ;  and  as  the  water,  winch  some- 
times filled  it,  dried  away,  it  was  converted  into 
salt.  I  have  been  cautious,  thus  far,  in  making 
conjectures  of  my  own,  or  repeating  the  st 
of  others; — and  shall  continue  to  exercise  that 
caution,  determining  to  relate  nothing  but  what 
has  evidence  sufficient  to  induce  a  belief  in  its 
probability,  if  not  in  its  certainty.  In  the  even- 
ing of  the  first  day's  journey,  Meaarah  slaugh- 
tered a  camel.  My  weakness  increased ;  and 
travelling  rapidly  and  sleeping  in  the  open  air 
without  any  covering,  occasioned  the  most  ex- 
treme distress.  From  recollecting  the  number 
of  days  we  were  upon  different  journeys,  and  al- 
so the  number  upon  which  we  rested,  this  musi 
have  been  the  latter  part  of  December,  the  cold 
having  increased  to  a  considerable  degree.  The 
next  day  we  bore  more  to  the  northward,  travel- 
ling moderately,  until  late  in  the  evening.  When 
we  stopped,  fuel  was  necessary  to  cook  with, 
but  no  dry  bushes  could  be  readily  found.  Af- 
ter seeking  some  time  for  them,  I  returned  to  the 
tent,  destitute  of  them,  and  almost  wholly  ex- 
hausted with  fatigue.  Meaarah  came  at  me  fu- 
riously with  a  knife,  pointing  it  toward  my  throat. 
I  fled  out  again  and  procured  a  few  dry  sticks. 
was  compelled  again  to  sleep  in  the  cold  air 


178  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

without  the  least  shelter  or  covering.    Upon  the 
next  day,  I  travelled  till  about  noon,  and  drop- 

Fed  down  upon  the  ground,  and  was  left  alone, 
gazed  round,  but  from  dimness  and  dizziness, 
could  see  neither  tent,  camel,  nor  human  being. 
I  attempted  to  walk,  but  was  wholly  unable  to 
move.  My  master  at  length  came  and  led  me 
to  the  tent,  which  was  pitched.  Some  warm 
milk  was  given  to  me,  into  which  was  put  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  dried  weed,  which  the  na- 
tives generally  carry  about  with  them;  although 
it  may  be  gathered  in  almost  every  part  of  the 
desert.  It  gave  to  the  milk  a  sharp  bitter  taste, 
and  relieved  me  from  the  costiveness  with  which 
I  had  been  much  troubled  from  eating  hard  boil- 
ed blood,  and  baked  locusts.  At  night  I  was 
permitted  to  have  a  small  piece  of  tent-cloth  for 
a  covering.  The  herb  given  to  me  operated  as 
a  cathartic.  The  next  day  I  was  placed  upon  a 
camel,  with  a  rolled  tent  cloth  upon  one  side, 
and  a  watering  tub  upon  the  other,  to  keep  me 
from  falling  off!  In  this  manner  I  continued  to 
travel  with  the  family  seven  days,  during  which 
time  I  was  not  allowed  to  eat  meat  of  any  kind, 
but  was  supplied  with  milk  warm  from  the  ca- 
mel. As  there  was  a  good  supply  of  camel's 
meat,  I  conclude,  the  reason  why  it  was  refused 
to  me  was  on  account  of  my  health,  being  alrea- 
dy unfit  for  market  from  the  leanness  of  my  bo- 
dy. I,  however,  found  an  opportunity  to  roast  a 
small  piece  of  raw  hide  rope,  and  eat  it.  For 
these  seven  days  we  travelled  asoutheast  course; 
at  the  end  of  which  we  came  to  a  low  piece  oi 
marshy  ground,  which  had  upon  it  bushes  and 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL-  179 

staddles  of  considerable  size,  and  also  standing 
water.     The  tents  were  pitched,  and  in  the  vi 
cinity  were  situated  about  forty  other  tents. 

CHAP.  XVI. 

Medical  practice — Hogan  and  Dick — sale  of  Porter — happiness 
in  Zahara — author  regains  his  health — is  sold  to  Hamet  Web- 
ber, an  Arab  merchant  of  the  Wiled  El  Kabla — African  and 
European  merchandise — an  expected  battle — gunnery — fe- 
males of  the  El  Kabla  tribe. 

January, 1816. 
IT  was  now  from  my  best  calculation,  the  first 
week  in  January.  The  tents  remained  station- 
ary for  four  days,  upon  the  first  of  which,  a  ca- 
mel was  slain;  with  the  fat  part  of  which  Meaa- 
rah  procured  a  small  skin  full  of  dates,  the  first 
I  had  seen.  These  the  Arabs  call  T'murr.  They 
are  a  sweet  nourishing  food,  and  the  few  allow- 
ed me  tasted  deliciously.  I  was  now  literally 
reduced  to  a  skeleton.  The  irritation  of  the 
blanket  around  my  middle,  and  sleeping  upon 
sand  and  hard  ground,  had  worn  the  skin  entire- 
ly off  my  hip-bones,  leaving  them  visible;  indeed, 
this  was  the  case  with  all  the  prominent  bones 
in  my  body.  I  was  completely  dried  up ;  and 
the  skin  was  contracted  and  drawn  tight  around 
my  bones.  Although  I  had  seen  many  human 
beings  reduced  to  bones  and  sinews  before,  I 
certainly  never  saw  one  so  poor  as  I  was  myself. 
I  was  in  no  danger  of  inflammatory  diseases,  as 
there  was  nothing  about  me  to  be  inflamed,  un- 
less a  conflagration  should  have  been  made  of 
my  dried  carcass;  and  this  I  was  in  danger  of 


180  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

from  the  mode  of  practice  adopted  by  the  Ish- 
maelitish  faculty.  They  heated  the  blade  of  a 
long  tent-knife — stripped  me  bare — held  me  in 
a  perpendicular  posture — and,  with  the  edge 
of  the  hot  knife  began  to  strike  gently  upon  my 
shin-bones,  and  continued  to  chop  the  whole  of 
the  front  part  of  my  frame.  I  felt  not  the  least 
pain  from  this  operation ;  indeed  I  was  no  more 
a  subject  of  pain  than  an  actual  skeleton  in  the 
office  of  a  surgeon.  They  repeated  this  opera- 
tion daily,  and  began  to  afford  me  a  little  meat. 
In  the  course  of  three  or  four  days,  I  became 
able  to  move  slowly  about — the  blood  began  to 
circulate, and  strength  began  to  return.  This  was 
the  mode  of  practice,  and  this  was  the  result  of 
it.  Whether  it  was  Galvanism  or  Perkinism,  I 
leave  to  the  Italian  and  American  faculty  to  de- 
termine. 

At  the  end  of  four  days,  the  tents  were  struck, 
and  a  journey  commenced  toward  the  northward. 
Upon  the  first  day,  we  passed  a  hill  upon  our 
right,  upon  the  shelviag  rocks  of  which,  was 
trickling  down  salt  water,  leaving  particles  of 
salt  upon  the  rocks.  We  were  descending  into 
a  very  long  and  deep  valley,  where  the  tents 
were  pitched  as  we  halted.  The  rainy  season 
had  commenced  ;  and  the  wandering  Arabs,  of 
various  tribes,  were  bending  to  the  northward 
and  eastward,  in  numerous  parties.  The  valley 
looked  like  a  city  of  tents ;  there  being,  at  least, 
three  hundred  situated  in  it.  Toward  night, 
JWeaarah  told  me  I  should  see  Joe  ;  and  I  soon 
after,  once  more,  beheld  my  ship-mate  in  mis- 
fortune.    Porter  had,  a  few  days  before,  been 


ROBBINS1  JOURNAL.  181 

sold  to  a  trading  Arab,  and  said  he  had  the?, 
hopes  or  going  to  Swearah,  (Mogadore)  where 
his  ransom  would  be  certain.  He  said,  he,  a  few 
days  before,  had  seen  Hogan  and  Dick ;  that 
ihcy  had  also  been  sold  to  a  trading  Arab — that 
Dick  was  worn  out  and  left,  probably  to  perish, 
and  that  Hogan  and  his  master  went  off*  in  a 
southeast  direction.  This  large  valley  ran  near- 
ly east  and  west,  about  half  a  mile  in  width? 
bounded  upon  each  side  by  high  ranges  of  hills. 
We  continued  in  it  for  six  days,  moving  mode- 
rately through  it  to  the  east,  in  company  with 
two  or  three  hundred  terrts.  Among  these  were 
a  number  of  trading  Arabs,  from  Lower  Suse,  ha- 
ving blankets,  tobacco,  dates,  powder,  blue  cot- 
tons, &c.  One  came  to  my  master's  tents,  and 
examined  me  with  a  view  of  purchasing ;  but 
said  I  was  too  poor — that  I  should  not  live  to 
reach  Sweara/i.  I  begged  of  him  to  buy  me;  but 
he  declined.  Meaarah  told  me  to  walk  about 
and  be  active,  or  I  never  should  be  sold.  I  would! 
gladly  had  I  been  able,  have  done  this,  or  any 
thing  else  to  induce  a  sale.  At  the  end  of  six 
days,  we  reached  the  east  end  of  this  wonderful 
valley,  which  then  branched  into  two  smaller 
ones.  It  was  altogether  the  most  fertile  part  of 
Africa  that  I  had  yet  seen.  It  had,  for  the  whole 
length,  green  grass,  and  bushes  in  abundance. 
Long  hills  of  rocks  and  sand  limited  it  upon  each 
side.  As  I  was  passing  through  it,  I  thought  it 
the  most  striking  prospect  I  bad  ever  seen. 
There  must  have  been  travelling  through  it,  and 
at  no  great  distance  from  our  tent,  as  many  ap 
twelve  hundred  natives.  As  we  passed  gently 
Q 


182  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

along,  the  natives  were  constantly  chanting  a 
kind  of  harmonious  song,  cheering  up  Ihe  load- 
ed camels  like  the  perpetual  jingling  of  bells. 
The  camels  had  a  supply  of  food  from  the  grass 
and  the  bushes  ;  and  the  natives  also  were  fur- 
nished with  their  meat  and  their  milk.  The  lit- 
tle streamlets  from  the  hills  supplied  them  with 
water.  The  different  families  and  parties  inter- 
changed civilities  peculiar  to  themselves.  They 
had  a  fruition  of  present  enjoyments,  and  expec- 
tations of  a  future  supply.  They  worshipped,  in 
large  parties,  four  times  a  day.  Their  tents  were 
pitched  with  cheerfulness  at  night,  and  with 
cheerfulness  were  struck  in  the  morning.  I  could 
not  see  how  this  life  could  afford  more  happiness 
than  they  apparently  enjoyed.  But  /was  a  slave! ! 
subject  to  their  capricious  whims,  and  barbarous 
cruelty.  1  was  a  kcllup  en-sahrau — and  to  slay  me. 
might  be  thought  as  offering  an  acceptable  sacri- 
fice to  Mahommcd.  Porter  was  also  in  the  par- 
ty. He  and  I  were  the  only  beings  present,  that 
ever  enjoyed  the  blessings  and  freedom  of  civi- 
lization. Every  appearance  evinced  the  fact 
that  this  valley,  irrthe  midst  of  the  rainy  season, 
is  filled  to  a  considerable  height  with  water. 

After  leaving  this  extraordinary  valley,  or  ra- 
ther ravine,  we  continued  to  travel  in  an  eastern 
course  for  four  days,  through  a  level  and  sandy 
country,  passii  g  a  small  stream  of  fresh  water, 
with  which  the  skins  were  filleil.  1  gained  strength 
daily,  and  began  to  do  the  sen  icr>  of  a  slave,  al- 
though yet  verv  feeble.     Upon  the  fourth  dav,  1 

f  TIT  I  1 

was  sold  to  a  trading  Arab.  Mcaarah  took  me 
off  to  a  neighbouring  tent,  near  which  I  saw  a 
quantity  of  goods.     One  of  the  traders  asked  me 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  i83 

of  what  nation  I  was?  I  answered,  as  before  in- 
structed by  Meaarah,  Fransah.  After  a  little  con- 
versation, I  was  delivered  to  him  as  a  slave.  I 
understood  the  price  for  me  was  five  camels  and 
two  blankets. 

My  third  masters  name  was  Hcmet  Webber,  of 
the  tribe  of  Wiled  El  Kahla,  a  trading  Arab.  His 
articles  of  traffic  were  blankets,  tobacco,  and 
powder.     Hamct  had  a  trading  Arab  as  a  part- 
ner;   and    they   and    I  constituted   the  family. 
They  had  here  no  tent,  but  received  their  food, 
once  a  day,  from  an  adjoining  one.     They  were 
not  permitted  to  lodge  in  the  tent.     Indeed,  it 
was  an  universal  custom  among  all  the  tribes,  I 
had  yet  seen,  never  to  admit  any  one  to  lodge  in 
a  tent,  but  members  of  the  family.   This  custom 
arises  from  the  suspicion  they  entertain  toward 
each  other ;  thieving  being  a  vice  to  which  they 
are  all  addicted.     I  was  here  supplied  with  a 
species  of  food  I  had  never  before  seen.    It  was 
a  thick  boiled  pudding,  called  Lakh,  furnished 
each  night  at  about  11  o'clock.     The  next  day. 
Twcnt  off  with  Harriet,  and  his  partner,  who  had 
two  camel?,  upon  which  the  goods  were  loaded. 
We  travelled   but  a  short  distance  ;  the  goods 
were  unloaded,  and  the  camels,  under  my  care, 
were  put  out  to  feed.    I  fell  in  with  Porter,  who 
was  also  keeping  the  camels  of  his  master.    Du- 
ring the  next  day,  Hamet  was  engaged  in  gath- 
ering in  the  camels,  for  which  he  had  bartered 
away  his  goods.     The  third  day  of  my  slavery 
with  my  new  master,  we  started  upon  a  journey 
with  twenty-five  camels,  and  one  black  slave, 
travelling  to  the  eastward.   Three  other  natives, 
with  fifteen  camels,  joined  us,  making  five  Arabs 


184  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

two  slaves,  and  fifty  camels.  At  night  a  camei 
ivas  killed  and  cooked.  From  the  next  morning, 
for  eight  days, we  travelled  in  an  easterly  course, 
at  about  twenty  miles  a  day.  Upon  the  journey. 
we  lived  as  well  as  men  could  upon  camel's 
meat  and  milk.  Hamet  was  very  kind  to  rne. 
supplied  me  with  some  additional  clothing,  and 
allowed  me  a  sufficiency  of  food.  My  health  im- 
proved and  my  flesh  increased.  At  the  end  of 
the  eight  days,  we  halted  ;  and  Hamet  went  for- 
ward in  pursuit  of  his  tent,  not  having  seen  one 
since  we  started.  We  remained  here  two  days: 
at  the  end  of  which  orders  were  sent  to  change 
our  course  to  the  northward.  At  the  end  of  the 
first  day's  travel,  we  reached  the  tents  belonging 
to  the  tribe  of  the  Wiled  El  Kabla.  There  had 
been  slight  falls  of  rain  for  the  ten  days  past. 
This  tribe,  in  every  respect,  was  the  most  weal- 
thy I  had  yet  seen.  They  had  great  numbers  of 
camels,  some  goats,  sheep  and  horses  ;  besides 
considerable  quantities  of  African  and  European 
merchandise.  The  European  goods  must  have 
been  taken  from  the  English  brig  Surprise,  which 
I  learned,  upon  arriving  at  Wadinoon,  was  wreck- 
ed to  the  southward  of  that  place,  about  the  1st 
of  January,  1816.  We  remained  at  this  place. 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  it,  for  thirty  days.  My  mas- 
ter was  generally  employed  in  trading  among  flic 
natives,  situated  in  the  adjoining  country.  Their1 
were  great  numbers  of  tents,  and  the  country  was 
well  calculated  for  keeping  camels.  They  gave 
milk  in  abundance,  and  I  had  a  full  supply.  It 
was  the  season  when  the  camels  foal  their  young, 
and  my  chief  employ  was  to  attend  them.  Be- 
ing at  rest,  and  well  supplied  with  lillabent, 


ROBBING  JOURiNAL.  185 

(milk)  1  regained  my  flesh  rapidly.  The  tents 
of  the  tribe  to  which  I  belonged  were  situated 
near  the  base  of  a  considerable  hill,  which  I  of- 
ten ascended  to  pick  a  sort  of  green  vegetable, 
totally  different  from  any  plant  which  I  had  ever 
seen.  It  grew  out  of  the  earth  from  three  inch- 
es to  a  foot  high  in  a  square  shape,  without  the 
least  leaf  attached  to  it.  It  was  always  green, 
and  had  a  short  beard  or  roughness  upon  its  four 
corners.  It  had  a  very  palatable  acid  in  its 
taste,  and  the  natives  had  the  greatest  fondness 
for  it. 

The  mode  of  worship  in  this  tribe,  wa9  pre- 
cisely the  same  as  that  among  the  Wiled  Lebdes- 
sebcth,  and  Wiled  D'lcim  ;  and  always  performed 
with  great  devotion,  four  times  each  day.  I  was 
by  this  tribe,  as  by  the  two  others,  urged  most 
vehemently  to  espouse  the  Mahonmudan  faitli ; 
but,  as  I  always  had  before,  I  positively  refused 
a  compliance,  and  do  not  know  that  I  suffered 
any  additional  cruelty  from  this  refusal.  The 
tribe  of  Wiled  El  Kabla  were  much  better  arm- 
ed, than  either  of  the  others  to  which  I  had  be- 
longed ;  having  many  valuable  double-barrelled 
muskets,  and  many  single-barrelled  Moorish 
muskets.  They  were  more  warlike  as  a  tribe, 
and  less  cruel  as  individuals,  than  nny  Arabs  1 
had  seen.  After  remaining  at  this  place  a  num- 
ber of  days,  great  alarm  and  consternation  was 
excited,  in  this  tribe,  by  the  approach,  from  the 
southeast,  of  a  large  armed  caravan.  Our  ca- 
mels were  all  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  hill, 
feeding,  and  it  was  supposed  that  this  armed 
body  of  men  were  coming  with  a  view  of  captu- 


(86  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ring  them.  An  universal  alarm  was  immediately 
spread  throughout  the  whole  encampment  of 
tents,  stretching  five  or  six  miles  upon  the  west 
side  of  the  hill.  There  must  have  been  as  ma- 
ny as  six  hundred  tents,  and  three  thousand  na- 
tives. They  had  no  warlike  instrument  with 
which  they  could  sound  an  alarm ;  but  this  was 
well  supplied  by  the  hooting  and  screaming  of 
the  female  Arabs.  The  echo  of  this  universal 
hooting,  over  the  hills,  was  to  me,  the  most  won- 
derful operation  of  sound.  The  Arab  men,  in 
rhe  mean  time,  were  sounding  dreadful  "  notes 
of  preparation."  The  muskets,  spears,  scimitars, 
knives,  and  clubs,  were  all  in  readiness.  They 
rushed,  without  the  least  order  or  command,  to 
the  top  of  the  hill,  ascending  rocks  to  get  a  sight 
of  the  enemy,  or  concealing  themselves  behind 
them  for  safety.  I  supposed,  and  even  hoped,  I 
should  see  an  engagement  in  which  these  Ishma- 
elites,  who  prey  upon  all  the  rest  of  the  world, 
would  make  havoc  of  each  other:  and  I  ascend- 
ed the  hill.  I  was  disappointed  ;  for  immediate- 
ly the  universal  shout  of  Labez  (all's  well)  echoed 
along  the  hills.  Some  of  our  tribe  went  down  to 
the  caravan,  and  I  soon  witnessed  tokens  of 
peace.  Upon  returning  to  the  tents,  I  found  the 
female  jaws  as  nearly  closed  as  nature  would 
permit  them  to  be,  and  tranquillity  was  restored. 
This  tribe  is  remarkable  for  its  skill  in  gunne- 
ry. Shooting  was  a  common,  and  indeed  the 
only  amusement  among  the  male  Arabs.  To 
manifest  their  skill,  they  place  a  small  stone  up- 
on the  top  of  a  bush.  They  stand  about  eight 
or  ten  rods  from  the  mark,  and  fire  at  arm's 
length.     They  certainly  exceed  Americans  in 


R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL.  187 

this  exercise.  I  very  often  saw  them,  at  the  first 
shot,  and  at  a  number  in  succession,  knock  off  a 
stone  with  a  single  ball.  I  was  sometimes  a  spec- 
tator; and  the  Arabs  undoubtedly  concluded 
that  as  I  was  a  Christian,  I  was  totally  ignorant 
of  firing.  As  I  was  one  day  witnessing  their 
astonishing  skill,  Hamet,  and  many  others,  insist- 
ed upon  my  making  a  shot.  They  permitted 
me  to  select  my  musket,  thinking  I  could  not 
distinguish  between  one  that  was  bono  or  foonta. 
Universal  attention  was  paid  ;  and  William  Tell 
was  not  more  applauded  for  taking  an  apple 
from  the  head  of  his  son,  than  I  was  for  fetching 
the  stone  from  the  bush.  Bono  Robbinis  !  Bono 
Robbinisl  resounded  through  the  valley,  and  I 
immediately  became  great.  Hamet  slapped  me 
on  the  shoulder,  in  token  of  approbation,  and 
thought  he  had  done  well  in  buying  me. 

The  dress  of  this  tribe,  although  in  the  great 
article  of  the  long  blanket,  put  on  as  before  de- 
scribed, it  is  similar  to  the  others ;  yet,  they  al- 
most all  wear  a  blue  or  white  frock-shirt,  falling 
below  the  knees.  They  wear  the  usual  belts, 
and  most  of  them  slippers,  and  some  of  them 
fine  rich  turbans  of  white  cloth.  The  female 
blankets  are  coloured  red  at  the  ends,  with  a 
thick  fringe.  They  wear  a  belt  around  the 
waist,  fastening  one  end  of  the  blanket,  over 
which  the  other  end  is  thrown  after  passing  over 
the  shoulders,  hanging  upon  one  side,  full  at  the 
bottom,  and  plaited  at  the  waist.  Upon  that 
part  of  the  blanket  which  covers  the  breast,  they 
wear  large  silver  breast-plates,  upon  which  are 
engraved  various  figures  and  hieroglyphics,  al- 
ways kept   exceedingly  bright.     In  their  ears, 


188  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

they  wear  silver  hoops,  some  of  which  are  a# 
large  as  the  top  of  a  coffee-cup.  Upon  their 
arms,  they  also  wear  silver  rings,  some  going  on 
whole  over  the  hand,  and  some  fastened  toge- 
ther with  clasps.  Upon  their  hair,  wrists,  and 
ankles,  they  have  a  redundancy  of  beautiful 
shells.  Some  of  the  young  females  have  the 
most  perfect  symmetry  in  their  forms,  and  when 
full  dressed,  bounding  over  the  plains,  or  riding 
upon  a  camel,  also  ornamented  with  red  breast- 
girths,  and  red  strips  of  cloth,  hanging  from  the 
elevated  saddle,  they  might  attract  the  eye,  even 
of  an  American.  With  a  weed  produced  upon 
the  deserts  the  females  paint  their  nails,  their 
hands,  and  faces  a  reddish  color,  in  various 
figures.  With  black  lead  they  draw  a  circle 
round  their  eyes. 

The  teachers  in  this  tribe  are  numerous  ;  the 
mode  of  instruction  the  same  as  that  practised 
with  the  Wiled  D'leirn.  The  children,  belong- 
ing to  this  tribe,  are  almost  all  of  them  educa- 
ted. Like  the  teachers  in  other  tribes,  they  ex- 
ercise great  authority  over  the  parents  and  chil- 
dren ;  and  confirmed  my  belief,  that  they  are  of 
the  Mahommedan  priesthood.  They  also,  in  this 
tribe,  take  the  lead  in  their  mode  of  worship. 

CHAP.  XVII. 

A  Caravan — an  armed  Arab — black  mountains — cultivated  land 
— apprehension  of  danger—  African  serpents — Ha  met  joins  a 
caravan  which  is  attacked — mountains  ofsand—fatigtie — ca- 
ravan broken  up— author  sold  tn  Bel  Cossim  Abdalhih  ofWa- 
dinoon — wounded  Arab  — -arrival  at  Wadinoon. 

FROM  the  best  calculation  I  could  make  from 
the  number  of  days  we  had  travelled,  and  the 


ROBBIXS'  JOURNAL.  180 

(mic  we  were  slationary.it  had  become  about  the 
1st  of  Marcto,  1<>16.  Preparations  were  made  b) 
Hamet  for  a  journey.  He  started  with  two  ca- 
mels, having  before  disposed  of  all  his  merchan- 
dise. He  however  had  with  him  a  number  of 
bags  for  grain  and  goods,  never  having  carried 
a  tent  while  1  was  with  him.  One  of  his  neigh- 
bours accompanied  us.  Harnet  and  I  generally 
rode  oae  camel  and  he  another.  Our  course 
was,  for  a  few  miles,  to  the  north,  when  we  came 
up  with  a  large  collection  of  tents  that  were 
pitched*  The  Arabs  were  preparing  to  form  a 
caravan.  They  consist  of  different  numbers  of 
natives  and  camels.  Some  have  fifty  men  and 
five  hundred  beasts,  and  they  sometimes  amount 
to  five  hundred  men,  and  two  thousand  camels. 
The  armed  Arabs  take  the  command  of  the 
whole,  and  travel  or  rest  at  pleasure.  They  ge- 
nerally go  forward  forming  the  van,  although 
some  of  them  are  mixed  with  the  unarmed  ones, 
giving  orders  concerning  the  camels,  the  travel- 
lers, and  the  goods  that  are  with  them.  They 
always  travel  in  compact  order.  An  \rab  chjefj 
armed  for  a  caravan,  presents  to  the  eye  of  the 
beholder,  a  figure  of  the  greatest  boldness.  He 
is  six  feet  high.  A  long,  black,  bushy  beard 
hangs  from  his  chin  to  his  breast.  He  has  a 
fierce,  black  eye,  sunk  deep  into  his  head,  with 
i  flick,  black  eye-brows  projecting  oi  or  them. — 
His  long  white  blanket  is  drawn  close  around 
his  body,  leaving  his  legs  bare  from  the  knee. 
Over  this  are  cast,  his  red  belts,  crossing  at  the 
breast  and  at  the  back.  To  one,  is  suspended 
a  large  transparent  powder-horn. decorated  with 
bands  of  shining  brass;  to,  the  other,  a  leathern 


190  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

pouch,  containing  balls,  flints,  and  a  screw-dri- 
ver. To  the  other  belt,  is  fastened  the  scab- 
bard, containing  a  long,  broad,  and  burnished 
cutlass  or  scimitar.  Around  his  waist  is  buckled 
a  broad,  red,  morocco  belt,  of  many  thicknesses, 
confining  the  belts,  that  support  the  cutlass  and 
the  horn.  His  head  is  generally  naked,  except- 
ing a  dress  of  black,  bushy  hair,  although  some- 
times covered  with  a  turban.  His  Moorish  mus- 
ket is  always  in  his  hand.  Thus  aimed,  he  is 
ready,  at  any  moment,  to  encounter  a  foe.  A 
caravan  is  formed  from  various  tribes,  and  from 
men  inhabiting  different  parts  of  the  continent 
of  Africa.  When  individuals  wish  to  travel  to 
any  particular  place,  and  can  find  a  caravan 
bound  to  it,  they  join  it;  and  agree  to  submit  to 
the  regulations  of  it.  and  are  entitled  to  all  the 
protection  it  can  afford.  In  this  way,  they  are 
safe,  unless  they  should  be  overcome  by  a  more 
powerful  caravan.  At  this  place,  are  formed 
many  of  the  great  caravans  that  travel,  in  vari- 
ous directions,  across  the  desert.  I  learned, 
from  the  natives,  that  many  large  caravans  go 
from  this  place  to  Soudan,  and  smaller  ones  to 
Wadinoon. 

Upon  leaving  this  place,  we  travelled  west, 
inclining  northerly,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day. 
came  to  a  range  of  black  mountains,  stretching 
to  the  southwest  as  far  as  the  eye  could  discern  ; 
extending  also  a  great  distance  to  the  northeast. 
These  mountains  we  passed,  sometimes  in  val- 
lies  intersecting  them,  and  sometimes  we  ascen- 
ded to  their  summits.  Between  these  mountains 
we  came  to  small  patches  of  cultivated  land,  up- 
on which  was  growing  a  species  of  barley,  which 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  19] 

will  hereafter  be  described.  This  was  the  first 
cultivated  laud  I  had  seen  in  Africa,  although  1 
had,  seemingly,  travelled  in  every  point  in  the 
compass.  Without  stopping  to  inquire  what 
Ishmaelite  it  belonged  to,  our  party,  consisting 
now  of  eight  persons,  deliberately  cut  and  roast- 
ed a  sufficient  quantity  for  present  refreshment. 
Continuing  on  our  journey,  until  sun-set,  we 
reached  a  long  range  of  tents,  containing  two 
hundred,  situated  upon  the  side  of  a  hill,  where 
we  tarried  through  the  night.  The  next  day  we 
found  that  we  had  came  to  a  part  of  the  tribe  of 
Wiled  Abbonssebah.  I  learned,  that  this  was  the 
original  tribe  of  the  ElKabla,  from  which  the  latter 
was  formed  into  a  new  one.  The  number  of  ca- 
mels, in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  tents,  was  im- 
mense. Judging  from  droves  which  I  had  before 
seen,  the  numbers  of  which  I  knew,  there  cer- 
tainly must  have  been  five  thousand.  While  I 
was  here,  I  saw  great  consternation  excited  at 
the  approach  of  a  small  party  of  Arabs,  suppo- 
sed to  be  a  clan  in  pursuit  of  camels.  They  were 
driven  rapidly  together  to  be  guarded.  We 
started  early  in  the  morning,  and  travelled 
through  a  bushy  and  grassy  country.  At  about 
noon,  we  came  to  a  piece  of  ground  having  thin 
low  grass.  We  were  travelling  very  moderately 
upon  a  walk,  when  my  attention  was  attracted 
by  a  large  shining  black  snake.  He  was  coiled 
round  regularly  like  a  cable;  his  head  rising 
from  the  centre  about  four  inches  high.  Upon 
coming  very  near  to  the  serpent,  he  directed  his 
eyes  towards  me,  and  flattened  his  head.  I  told 
Flamet  what  I  saw,  and  he  immediately  alarmed 
me,  telling  me  to  sheer  off  in  an  instant;  which  I 


ig2  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

did,  without  waiting  to  give  him  a  farther  ex- 
amination, which  I  was  about  to  do.  From  what 
I  soon  learned,  I  found  that  by  acquiring  a  mi- 
nute knowledge  of  this  venomous  reptile,  I  should 
certainly  have  lost  my  life.     I  cannot  tell  its 
length,  from  the  situation  it  was  in,  no  otherwise 
than  by  saying  that  it  was  about  the  size  of  a 
chair  pummel,  and  coiled,  as  it  was,  it  made  a 
circle  about  as  large  as  the  top  of  a  half  bushel. 
At  eight  or  ten  miles  distance,  we  saw  another  of 
the  same  size  and  appearance,   but  I  was  no 
ways  disposed  to  add  to  the  little  knowledge  I 
had  previously  obtained  of  African  serpents.  At 
night  we  put  up  amidst  a  great  number  of  tents, 
situated  near  a  small  stream  of  water.  The  next 
day  we  discovered  a  small  caravan  coming  from 
the  south-east  toward  the  tents  where  we  lodg- 
ed.    It  had  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  camels, 
and  fifteen  armed   Arabs,  mounted   upon  fleet 
Arabian  horses.     Our  party  joined  it ;  and  as  it 
passed  the  tents,  the  owners  of  them  assailed 
the  caravan,  cutting  from  the  camels  the  meat, 
bowls,  and  other  articles  loaded   upon   them. 
The  armed   Arabs  of  our  caravan,  with  drawn 
scimitars,  soon  dispersed  them.     1  was  mounted 
upon  a  good  camel,  and  put  him  into  full  speed  ; 
not  wishing  to  be  stolen  from  my  worthy  master 
Hamet.     The  whole  caravan  bounded  over  the 
plain  with  amazing  velocity,  the  savages  firing 
upon  us  from  the  tents,  till  we  were  out  of  sight. 
No  lives  were  lost  in  our  party ;  but  without 
doubt,  the  Mahometans  at  the  tents  had  to  per- 
form the  funeral  service  over  the  bodies  of  some 
of  their  companions.     We  travelled  through  the 
day,  upon  the  dry  bed  of  a  river  twenty  or  thir- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  193 

ty  rods  wide.  Such  dried  beds  are  frequently 
found  in  this  part  of  the  Zahara  desert,  made 
probably  by  the  heavy  rains,  and  the  torrents 
descending  from  hills  which  are  always  near 
them.  These  beds  are  always  chosen  for  a  pas- 
sage, as  they  are  entirely  smooth,  and  furnish 
considerable  grass.  Our  course  was  to  the 
northwest. 

At  night,  the  whole  caravan  stopped  near  a 
field  of  grain  ;  and,  as  before  mentioned,  with- 
out the  least  hesitation,  the  human  beings  feci 
all  night  upon  that,  and  the  beasts  upon  the 
grass.  We  here  found  a  pond  of  stagnant  water, 
which  furnished  us  with  beverage  for  our  enter- 
tainment. The  next  day,  highly  refreshed,  we 
rose  with  the  rising  sun,  and  started  with  high 
animation  upon  our  journey.  My  life  now  be- 
came happiness  itself,  in  comparison  with  the 
misery  I  had  long  endured.  Haraet  was  uniform 
ly  kind.  I  had  become  familiarized  with  the 
modes  of  an  Arab's  life ;  and  were  it  not  from 
the  consideration  that  I  was  a  slave,  I  should 
have  enjoyed  happiness  in  reality.  At  about  10 
o'clock,  A.  M.  we  came  to  the  bed  of  a  river  at 
least  half  a  mile  wide,  having  a  small  stream  up- 
on one  shore  of  it.  In  passing  the  water,  our 
camels  waded  midsides  high ;  and  in  going  over 
the  rest  of  the  bed,  they  sunk  in  the  moist  clay- 
ground,  slipping  at  almost  every  step,  having  no 
hard  hoofs  to  make  a  hold.  This  was  the  rainy 
serson  in  this  part  of  the  continent  of  Africa.  It 
sets  in  at  different  seasons,  in  different  por- 
tions of  it.  While  Abyssinia  is  almost  inunda- 
Ini  Soudan  will  endure  a  most  dreadful  drought. 

R 


194  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

and  the  country  adjoining  Wadinoon  will  enjoy 
the  luxuriance  of  the  growing  season. 

After  passing  this  stream,  we  ascended  a  con- 
siderable hill,  and  came  into  a  country  where 
description  must  surrender  its  power.  All  that 
can  be  said  is,  it  was  a  world  made  up  of  sand- 
hills and  mountains,  with  narrow  zig-zag  passa- 
ges through,  and  over  them.  Travelling  was  ex- 
cessively fatiguing  to  the  poor  loaded  camels, 
and  to  their  owners.  It  was  still  harder  for  the 
horses,  ridden  by  the  armed  Arabs.  We  ac- 
complished the  passage  by  sun-set,  and  found  a 
few  tents,  but  lodged,  as  a  caravan  always  does, 
in  the  open  air.  Through  the  next  day,  we  tra- 
velled over  a  country,  consisting  of  small  hills 
and  plains,  barren  sands,  and  cultivated  grounds 
alternately  intermixed.  It  rained  gently  all  the 
while.  We  saw  a  beautiful  gazelle,  which  an 
Arab  attempted  to  shoot,  but  the  sprightly  ani- 
mal defied  even  the  musket,  by  his  agility,  and 
escaped.  Toward  night  the  caravan  was  bro-' 
ken  up;  the  natives  and  camels  composing  it 
having  reached  the  place  of  their  destination. 
This  night  Hamet  and  I  were  welcomed  to  the 
tent  of  one  of  his  connections,  as  I  concluded, 
because,  as  before  remarked,  Arabs  will  permit 
none  but  family  connections  to  lodge  in  their 
tents.  I  remained  at  this  tent  three  days.  Ha- 
met, early  in  the  first  day,  told  me  that  he  was 
going  to  Sweahrah.  I  had  been  too  often  deceiv- 
ed to  believe  it ;  and  my  suspicions  proved  to  be 
true  when,  at  the  end  of  three  days,  he  returned 
with  Bel  Cossim  Abdallah,  from  Wadinoon. 
While  here  f  found  I  was  with  the  tribe  of  the 
Wiled  Adrialla,  and  by  them  was  treated  with 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  195 

the  greatest  kindness;   probably  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  belonging  to  Harriet,  a  merchant 
.    tribe  of  El  Kabla,  which,  as  before  men- 
tioned   is  a  branch  of  the  powerful  and  wealthy 
(the  Wiled  Aboussebah. 
I  soon  found  that  I  was  to  be  separated  from 
Hamet;  whose  uncommon  goodness  for  an  Arab, 
made   ne  esteem  him.  He  and  Bel  Cossim  came 
to  the  tent  where  I  was  situated,  and  began  to 
talk  about  me.  Hamet  asked  me,  in  the  hearing 
of  Bel   Cosshn,     "  Ash   soo-mook    B^led    cum?" 
(whai  3  the  name  of  your  country?)  I  answered, 
supposing  that  he,  like  the  rest  of  the  Arabs,  had 
no  ide  a  oi  America,  "  Fransah."     He  smiled,  and 
said,  •<  Arrah  en  tar  murlcan*  Fransah  en  tar  Ame- 
ricane."     He  gave  me  to  understand,  that  he  had 
learned  I  was  an  American,  a  day  or  two  before 
at  Wadinoon.     It  was  a  frequent  inquiry  made 
about  me,  whether  I  belonged  to  the  vessel  that 
had  sc  much  money  in  it,  meaning  the  Commerce. 
They  always  insisted  upon  it,  that  great  quanti- 
ties were  buried  at  Cape  Bajador  where  she  was 
wrecked.     I  always  denied  it,  fearing  I  should 
be  sent  there  to  dig  for  it,  which  would  remove 
me  fc  rther  from  the  hopes  of  being  redeemed. 
The   next  day  after  the  return  of  Hamet  from 
Wad  boon,  I  was  taken  off  by  my  new  master 
Bel  Cossim.    Our  course  from  this  place  to  Wa- 
il inoon  was  about  northwest.    Toward  night,  we 
stopped  at  a  tent,  where  we  remained  until  the 
morning.  1  here  saw  a  wounded  Arab  who 
had  v.  musket  ball  shot  deep  into  the  middle  of 
the  thigh.    Upon  seeing  me,  they  supposed  I  was 
a  doc -or,  as  they  have  many  foreigners  who  re- 
side upon  the  coast,  as  practitioners  in  surgery 


i96  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

and  medicine.  Bel  Cossim  and  others  urged 
me  to  attempt  to  extract  the  ball,  offering  me  a 
great  reward  to  effect  it.  I  scorned  the  idea  of 
becoming  a  quack,  even  to  deceive  an  Arab,  and 
declined  to  operate.  No  patient  ever  needed  as- 
sistance more  to  relieve  him  from  the  wound  a 
ball  had  made,  and  from  the  more  terrible  gash- 
es and  incisions  made  into  the  top  of  the  thigh 
io  the  bone,  by  the  harsh  knives  of  the  Arabs. 
In  the  evening,  I  saw  the  Spaniard,  I  have  before 
mentioned,  who  attempted  to  escape,  and  had 
some  conversation  with  him  in  the  Arab  lan- 
guage, in  which  I  could  now  converse  tolerably 
well,  however  difficult  it  is  to  write  it  with  accu- 
racy, after  a  long  acquaintance  with  it. 

We  travelled  moderately  on  foot  for  three 
days,  passing  from  one  cluster  of  tents  to  anoth- 
er, until  we  reached  the  celebrated  town  of 
Wadinoon.     Upon  the  passage,  Bel  Cossim  pur- 
chased a  small  copper  kettle,  and  a  quantity  of 
tow-cloth,  which  I  had  to  carry.     The  name  oi 
the  country  through  which  we  passed,  was  call- 
ed BHed-Mouessa  Ali,  and  the  natives  call  them- 
selves Misse-k-mene.     We  passed,  upon  the  last 
day,  a  very  small  village  situated  upon  an  ele- 
vated piece  of  ground,  from  which  we   had  a 
view  of  Wadinoon.     This  place  is  called  Wah- 
roon.     I  have  mentioned  the  method  1  adopted 
to  keep  my  reckoning  of  time,  i.  e.  by  the  string, 
in  which  I  daily  tied  a  knot  until   I  disused  it: 
by  remembering  the  number  of  days  we  were 
upon  the  numerous  journeys,  and  the  number  of 
days  we  rested.     From  this  method  of  calcula- 
tion, for  six  months,  I  made  the  day  of  my  arri- 
^aVat  Wadinoon  the  12th  of  March.    But  I  there 


BOBBINS'  JOUKNAL  197 

I,  upon  ascertaining  the  actual  time  of  the 
year,  that  I  had  lost  four  days,  the  day  of  my  ar- 
rival being  the  lGth  day  of  March,  1 8 1 G.     The 
day  after  my  arrival  was  a  market-day,  which  is 
held  weekly.     I  found  this  to  he  upon  the  Chris- 
tian sabbuth ;  and  that  the  Mahommedan  sabbath 
s  upon  Friday,  according  to  our  calendar. 
•  family  of  Hoi  Cossim  consisted  of  his 
.  who  was  his  third  one,  by  whom  he   had 
two  son^  iaugruer.     His  first  wife  left  a 

son  and  a  d  his  second  wife  a  daughter. 

His  oldest  son,  Hamada.  was  married,  and  lived 
in  the  same  house  with  him,  being  himself  an 
aged  man.  A  married  daughter  lived  in  an  ad- 
joining one.  He  had  five  black  slaves.  He  had 
other  wives  living  in  tents  whom  he  occasional- 
ly visited. 

CHAP.  XVIII. 

Wddinoon — its  situation — number  of  houses  and  inhabitants — 
cattle — people — gardens — vegetables — barley  harvest — cruel- 
ty of  Bel  Cossim — reaping,  threshing,  winnowing  and  grind- 
ing— keskoosoo— eating — market  and  fairs — manner  of  build- 
ing houses — Sheick's  house. 

I  NOW  became  a  settled  resident  in  what 
may  be  called  the  capital  of  the  northern  desert 
ofZahara.  To  my  inexpressible  satisfaction,  I 
found  Porter  a  resident  here  also.  He  had  be- 
coine  the  slave  of  a  wealthy  merchant,  and  was 
what  might  be  called  a  well  dressed  man  any 
where.  He  lived  as  well  as  could  be  wished, 
and  it  may  be  said,  enjoyed  "  leisure  with  dig- 
nity."    He  informed  me  that  he  had  written  to 

R2 


198  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

Jlfogadore,  and  that  Abdullah  Hamet,  his  master, 
had  received  a  letter  concerning  him — that  he 
was  in  daily  expectation  of  receiving  one  him- 
self, and  considered  his  ransom  as  certain,  and 
that  he  had  heard  of  the  arrival  of  Capt.  Riley 
at  Gibraltar.  A  few  days  previous  to  my  arri- 
val here,  the  crew  of  the  British  brig  Surprise 
left  this  place,  and  were  in  the  keeping  of  Sidi 
Hesham,  of  Suse,  for  the  purpose  of  being  ran- 
somed. 

The  town  of  Wadinoon  is  situated  upon  the 
western  coast  of  the  continent  of  Africa,  about 
thirty  miles  from  the  sea,  and  upon  the  northern 
border  of  the  Great  Desert  of  Zahara.  it  is  in 
that  part  of  the  continent  called  Suse,  sometimes 
distinguished  by  Upper  and  Lower  Suse.  It  is  in 
28°  15  minutes  N.  Latitude,  and  11°  W.  Longi- 
tude. A  range  of  mountains,  of  considerable 
height,  lies  along  between  that  and  the  sea,  upon 
the  north,  and  a  similar  range  upon  the  south, 
leaving  between  them  a  valley  of  about  six  miles 
in  width.  This  valley  diminishes  in  width  to- 
ward the  east,  and  is  ended  by  the  termination 
of  the  Adas  Mountains.  Upon  a  rising  piece  of 
ground  near  the  middle  of  this  valley  is  built  the 
town  of  Wadinoon.  From  this  place  may  be 
seen  the  village  of  Wahroon,  to  the  west,  at 
seven  miles  distance ;  another  village  to  the 
southeast,  at  twelve  miles  distance ;  and  Akka? 
dia  to  the  northeast,  at  fifteen  miles  distance 
From  the  mountain,  upon  the  north,  issues  a 
small  stream  from  a  boiling  spring,  running  into 
the  town,  and  furnishing  water  for  the  whole  oi 
it.  It  is  the  finest  water  imaginable.  The  whole 
of  it  is  absorbed  in  the  place  for  necessary  pur- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  199 

poses,  and  watering  the  gardens.  The  other  vil- 
lages also  have  small  streams  to  afford  them  wa- 
ter. The  number  of  houses  included  within  the 
town  of  Wadinoon,  while  I  resided  there,  which 
was  eleven  months,  reckoning  two  new  ones, 
built  while  I  was  there,  is  forty-five.  Some  of 
these,  however,  being  large,  contain  a  number 
of  distinct  dwellings  for  different  families.  The 
number  of  families,  statedly  residing  here,  was 
between  ninety -five  and  an  hundred,  almost 
every  one  of  which,  during  my  residence,  I  had 
some  acquaintance  with,  from  the  service  I  had 
to  perform  for  my  master  Bel  Cossim,  who  was 
a  trader  and  also  a  farmer.  Families  here  will 
average  five  individuals  each,  exclusive  of  slaves; 
the  slaves  in  the  town,  amounting  to  an  hundred 
and  fifty  of  African  blacks.  The  only  Christian 
slave  at  the  time  I  arrived  was  Porter,  and  I  made 
the  second.  Of  the  black  slaves,  the  Sheick,  or 
governor  of  the  place,  was  possessed  of  twenty. 

The  cattle  in  this  place  were  horses,  (Vhile)  a 
few  cows,  (Vbugrcm)  asses,  (hermafi)  mules,  (hu- 
gataK)  sheep,  Gcipps)  and  goats,  (7««mW.)  Ca- 
mels are  seldom  kept  within  the  town,  unless  it 
be  a  few  J\aigs  to  furnish  milk,  when  the  cows 
become  dry.  The  residents  in  the  town,  many 
of  them,  possess  large  droves  at  keeping  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  adjoining  country.  Bel  Cos- 
sjrn  had  several  hundreds.  They  have  fowls  si- 
milar to  our  dung-hill  fowls. 

The  inhabitants  are  generally  descendants  of 
the  tribe  of  Wiled  Aboassehuh ;  although  with 
them,  are  intermixed  many  of  different  tribes. 
Being  much  better  educated  than  the  wandering 
Arabs,  they  are  much  more  refined  in  their  man- 


200  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

ners  than  they  are,  although  many  of  them  ma- 
nifest the  ferocious  nature,  and  vindictive  spirit, 
common  to  ail  the  descendants  of  Ishmael. 

The  mode  of  dressing  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
Arabs  of  the  desert ;  although  very  much  ex- 
ceeding theirs,  in  the  quality  of  the  cloth.  In 
addition  to  the  dress  of  a  wanderer,  they  have 
an  outward  garment,  covering  the  whole  body 
from  the  top  of  the  head  to  the  knee.  It  is  wo- 
ven Avhole  of  fine  camel's  hair  and  wool,  is  re- 
markably thick,  and  will  shed  rain  for  a  very 
long  time.  These  are  not  manufactured  there, 
but  are  obtained  from  the  trading  Moors.  When 
on,  they  look  like  a  riding-hood ;  the  head-piece 
of  which  is  ornamented  at  the  top  with  a  tassel. 
They  are  of  various  colours,  some  of  them  hav- 
ing a  very  rich  appearance  ;  and  those  that  are 
black  have  a  large  oval  piece  of  orange  colored 
cloth,  woven  into  the  back,  toward  the  bottom. 
The  female  dress  differs  but  little  from  that  be- 
fore described,  only  in  richness  of  quality.  Some 
of  the  silk  turbans  are  really  elegant;  having  a 
broad  piece  of  rich  silk  hanging  from  them  to  the 
hip.  They  invariably  conceal  their  faces  when 
walking  in  public. 

The  gardens  are  chiefly  situated  in  the  bor- 
ders of  the  village.  They  are  fenced  in  by  a 
wall,  composed  of  mud.  upon  the  top  of  which 
are  placed  thorn-bushes,  secured  to  it  by  laying 
large  stones  upon  the  stocks,  leaving  the  bows 
to  project  over  the  outer  edge  of  the  wall  to  keep 
out  intruders;  stealing  being  a  vice  as  prevalent 
here,  ae  upon  the  desert.  These  gardens  are 
cultivated  with  the  greatest  attention,  and  pro- 
duce a  great  variety  of  vegetables. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  201 

The  ingenuity  of  laying  out  garders  here  must 
excite  the  admiration  of  every  beholder.  Let  :he 
surface  of  the  ground  be  what  it  may,  the  beds, 
in  which  the  vegetables  are  to  be  planted,  are 
always  made  an  exact  water-level.  They  e  <ch 
have  a  ridge  of  earth  upon  the  outer  edge,  ten 
inches  high,  which  remains  through  the  season. 
Each  garden  has  a  sluice-way,  through  which 
the  water  is  conducted  into  the  alleys.  From 
the  alleys,  the  water  is  conducted  into  the  b  ds, 
through  an  aperture  in  the  ridge,  which  is  clo- 
sed as  soon  as  the  bed  is  filled,  leaving  the  water 
to  soak  into  the  ground.  In  this  way,  they  go  on, 
filling  one  bed  after  another  in  the  garden,  how- 
ever numerous  they  may  be.  Every  garden  in 
the  place  is  watered  in  this  manner.  The  wa- 
ter is  supplied  from  the  spring  in  the  mountain1, 
before  mentioned.  As  it  descends  toward  the 
town,  it  is  drawn  off  in  different  directions  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  people.  Three  reser- 
voirs have  been  made  by  digging  large  basins  in 
the  ground,  and  bordering  them  with  a  wall 
composed  of  mud  and  stones.  These  bein  ■.-•;  sit- 
uated in  different  parts  of  the  town,  furnish  a 
sufficiency  for  all  the  gardens.  These  reservoirs 
are  owned  by  a  number  of  proprietors,  each  ha- 
ving the  privilege  of  drawing  off  the  wrater,  a 
number  of  days  proportionate  to  the  size  of  his 
garden, 

The  vegetables  produced  in  these  gardens  are 
the  following  : — The  Arabic  names  are  spelled  as  _ 
pronounced  at  Wadinoon. 

Arabic.  English. 

Bishnall-suffarah,  Yellow-corn. 

Bishnall-hamerah,  Red  or  Guinea-corn. 


202 

ROBBLNS'  JOURNAL. 

Liffett, 

Turnips. 

Keizah, 

Carrots. 

Bessal, 

Onions. 

(  Pumpkins,  sauash, 

and 

C'shash, 

\      gourds. 

Lyroom, 

Cabbage, 

Dillaa, 

Watermelons. 

Fijfil, 

Peppers. 

Tobac, 

Tobacco. 

T'murr, 

Dates. 

Zurrah, 

Barley. 

Carmoose, 

Figs. 

Arromann, 

Pomegranates. 

Tafferrez, 

Pears. 

Tack-nerrite, 

Prickly-Pears. 

Nornipps, 

G  rap  Co. 

Henneh  is  a  small  leaf  taken  from  a  shrub, 
and  dried,  of  which  a  powder  is  made,  by  mix- 
ing which  with  water  a  beautiful  coloring  is 
made  for  the  hair,     Thi  article  of 

traffic.     The;  kinds*  of  vegeta 

appearance  and  in  taste,  are  » ery  sin  those 

of  the  same  species  produced  in  New- England. 
Barley  and  wheat  are  raised  in  fields -as  well  ,o- 
in  gardens;   the  reason  why  the    Arfd.-s  sow  any 

miens  is,  the   fear  that   the  fields   will 
dried  up  where  they  canuoj  water  them  as  lln\) 
do  in  gardens.     Wheat  is   raised   but  in  small 
quantities. 

At  the  time  of  my  arrival  at  Wadinoon,  i ' **■ 
barley  was  ripe  il>v  harvesting.  J  was  immedi- 
ately put  upon  instruction  to  learn  the  art  of 
reaping;  but  shewed  ;is  much  ignorance  and 
obstinacy  in  that  art,  in  tins  place,  as  I  did  in  thai 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  203 

of  fishing  near  Cape  Mirik,  and  lending  camels 
with  Mearah.  On  the  second  day,  1  loitered 
around  the  fields,  not  knowing  where  the  black 
slaves  were  at  work.  Bel  Cossitn  ransacked  the 
town  to  find  me  in  vain,  but  his  son  Hamada  found 
me.  Bel  Cossim  approached  me  in  a  rage, 
struck  me  with  his  fists  a  number  of  blows,  and 
then  threw  a  heavy  stone,  which  hit  me  upon  the 
side,  the  effects  of  which  I  severely  felt  for  two 
months.  I  longed  for  revenge  in  vain.  Had  it 
taken  place  Upon  the  deck  of  a  vessel,  I  should 
soon  have  obtained  ample  satisfaction.  I  found 
resistance  was  in  vain,and  finally  submitted  to  per- 
form easy  tasks.  This  ultimately  proved  a  benefit, 
rather  than  an  injury  ;  for  while  other  Christian 
slaves  were  wearing  away  life  in  listless  indo- 
lence, in  the  houses  of  their  masters,  pondering 
upon  their  fate,  I  was  constantly  traversing  the 
town  and  the  adjoining  country ;  in  a  degree 
forgetting  my  miseries,  and  daily  acquiring 
knowledge  of  the  place,  and  the  manners,  cus- 
toms, and  habits  of  the  people.  I  found  amuse- 
ment and  instruction,  in  the  midst  of  my  services. 
The  barley  harvest  was  not  all  gotten  in  until 
the  first  of  June,  one  field  becoming  ripe  after 
another,  having  been  sowed  at  different  times. 
This  barley  more  nearly  resembled  oats,  than 
barley,  the  hull  adhering  to  it.  At  one  time,  I 
was  reaping  with  thirty  Arabs,  who  gave  my 
master,  what  is  called  a  spell  in  N.  England,  and 
a  tuezar  at  Wadiuoon.  We  partook  of  our  din- 
ner, (loader)  consisting  of  Kcskoosoo  and  El-ham 
in  the  field,  having  water  from  a  spring.  The 
sickles  are  of  Moorish  manufacture,  not  dissimi- 
lar td  ours.     The  grain  grows  two  feet  and  an 


204  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

half  high,  and  very  thick.  As  they  reap  it  each 
handful  is  bound  into  a  sheaf,  and  it  is  very  soon 
sUcked  in  the  field.  When  the  whole  field  is 
reaped  and  stacked,  the  grain  is  transported  up- 
on the  backs  of  camels  and  mules  to  the  com- 
mon threshing  ground  near  the  town,  which  is 
entirely  hard,  and  generally  composed  of  smooth 
rocks.  The  grain  is  beaten  out  with  horses,  as- 
ses, and  mules.  By  this  operation,  the  straw  and 
berry  is  all  beaten  together,  leaving  the  straw  as 
fine  as  that  which  is  cut  with  a  machine.  The 
grain  is  separated  from  the  chaff  and  fine  straw. 
by  throwing  it  up  into  the  wind  with  a  wooden 
fork  of  three  flat  tines  ;  this  being  continued  un- 
til the  berry  is  entirely  cleaned  from  every  thing. 
With  a  good  wind,  a  man  in  this  manner  will 
clean  fifty  bushels  in  a  day.  The  grain  is  dried 
in  earthen  pots  by  fire,  to  prepare  it  for  grind- 
ing. Every  family  grinds  a  portion  of  barley 
every  day.  This  is  done  between  two  stones,  the 
under  one  lying  permanently  upon  the  ground — 
the  upper  one  having  a  hole  in  the  centre.  With 
one  hand,  the  grain  is  thrown  in,  with  the  other 
the  stone  is  turned  round  :  the  flour  coming  out 
all  round  the  bottom  of  it.  It  is  then  sifted  through 
a  sieve,  made  of  sheep's  skin,  when  green,  by 
pricking  holes  through  it,  and  drying  it  sudden- 
ly with  embers.  This  is  put  into  hoops  similar 
to  our  sieves.  The  flour  is  then  put  into  a  large 
shallow  bowl,  and  by  sprinkling  water  upon  it  in 
small  quantities,  and  rolling  the  flour  upon  the 
bottom  of  the  bowl  with  the  hand,  it  is  soon  form- 
ed into  small  balls  of  the  size  of  pepper  corns. 
An  earthen  pot  (gidderah)  is  filled  with  water, 
and  when  boiling,  the  little  balls,  being  put  into 


ROB  BUNS'  JOURNAL.  20  Ji 

a  grass  basket,  (kessikas)  set  upon  the  top  of  the 
pot,  into  which  the  steam  of  the  boiling  water 
ascends  and  cooks  it.  When  it  is  cooked,  it  i* 
called  Kcskoosoo,  before  mentioned,  and  is  the 
principal  food  of  the  inhabitants ;  although  they 
often  have  vegetables  with  it,  and  sometimes  a 
little  meat  (El ham.)  The  different  sexes  neve- 
eat  in  company ;  but  both  partake  of  their  food, 
sitting  upon  the  ground,  and  eating  with  then- 
hands  from  wooden  dishes,  always  washing  their 
hands  before  they  eat. 

It  had  now  become  the  1st  of  June;  the  bar  lev 
harvest  was  through,  and  the  gardens  occupied 
the  chief  attention.  They  were  filled  with  the 
various  vegetables  enumerated  before,  many  of 
which  were  ripened,  and  required  great  care. 
Bel  Cossitn  appointed  me  El  Rats,  or  Captain  of 
this  part  of  his  dominions,  and  authorized  me  to 
expel  intruders  and  punish  aggressors.  In  the  ex- 
ercise of  this  power,  I  one  day  saluted  an  Arru- 
bere,  as  the  wandering  Arabs  are  called  by  the 
citizens  of  Wadinoon,  with  a  heavy  stone,  having 
caught  him  stealing  grapes.  He  immediately 
turned,  and  aimed  his  musket  toward  me,  which 
\  totally  disregarded ;  and,  in  a  tone  of  authori- 
ty, commanded  him  to  flee,  which  he  insta'  tjy 
obeyed.  My  master  urged  me  to  accept  of  a 
musket,  which  I  declined,  knowing  that  he  would 
soon  have  compelled  me  to  bear  arms,  in  de- 
fence, against  the  numerous  marauders  who  of- 
ten infest  the  town,  and  render  every  thing  in- 
secure. 

The  markets  and.  fairs  at  this  place  are  steadi- 
ly iiolden  on co  n  week,  upon  the  Christian  sab- 

s 


206  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

bath,  the  Mahommedan  sabbath  being  upon  Friday, 
At  these  markets,  are  exposed  for  sale,  almost 
every  species  of  vegetables  produced  in  the 
country — Olive  oil  and  Argan  oil  are  also  offer- 
ed, and  purchased  in  greater  or  smaller  quanti- 
ties by  almost  every  one.  Zate  is  a  common  term 
for  every  species  of  oil.  These  oils  are  manu- 
factured and  sold  by  a  race  of  natives  called 
Berrebers,  in  distinction  from  Arabs  and  Moors, 
occupying  the  western  coast  of  Africa,  extending 
from  Morocco,  south  to  the  dominions  of  Sidi 
Hesham.  These  natives  will  be  more  particular- 
ly mentioned  hereafter.  Another  kind  of  thick, 
white  oil,  made  from  small  red  berries,  is  also 
sold,  which  is  called  d'hcnt.  Some  kind  of  oil  is 
always  eaten  with  koskoosoo.  Honey  is  also  ex- 
posed for  sale.  Various  meats  are  also  in  mar- 
ket, among  which  are  beef,  mutton,  camel's  and 
goat's  meat;  and  sometimes  cooked  locusts. 
Bread,  called  khobz,  is  also  sold.  It  is  in  heavy, 
black  cakes,  about  the  size  of  a  sea-biscuit. 
Grain  is  also  retailed.  The  foregoing  articles 
include  all  that  is  sold  for  food. 

At  the  fairs  are  offered  for  sale  almost  every 
article  oiclothing,  necessary  to  cover  or  ornament 
the  body.  Blankets,  or  haicks,  blue  cottons, 
slippers,  belts,  turbans,  and  almost  every  species 
of  trinkets.  Occasionally,  spices  are  exposed 
for  sale — also  powder,  tobacco,  and  tar — the  last 
article  being  in  great  use  among  the  wandering 
Arabs  fox  healing  camels,  which  are  also  sold 
here,  and  killing  camel  bugs.  The  persons  re- 
sorting to  these  markets,  as  sellers  and  purcha- 
sers, embrace  almost  every  different  race  of 
Africans.     A  duty  or  compensation  is  always  de 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  207 

inanded  by  the  town,  and  paid  by  the  sellers,  for 
the  use  of  the  markets. 

The  mode  of  building  houses  may  be  reckon- 
ed among  the  peculiarities  of  these  people.  They 
have  not  sufficient  wood  to  burn  their  clay  into 
bricks,  nor  have  they  timber  of  sufficient  size  to 
saw  into  boards.     There  seems  to  be  no  other 
mode  in  which  they  could  erect  habitations  but 
that  resorted  to.     The  houses  are  built  of  mud 
and  stones.     They  begin  the  wall  by  placing  a 
framed  box,  ten  feet  long,  three  feet  high,  and 
two  and  an  half  feet  wide,  upon  the  ground. 
This  they  fill  with  moistened  earth,  occasionally 
mixing  flat  stones  with  it.     As  it  is  thrown  in,  two 
persons  standing  within  the  box,  pound  it  down 
as  hard  as  possible.     When  the  box  is  filled,  it 
is  taken  apart,  carried  forward,  and  placed  in  an 
exact  range  with  the  piece  of  wall  thus  begun, 
The  same  process  is  carried  on,  until  the  wiole 
foundation  is  raised  three  feet  high — this  making 
the  lower  tier — Any  number  of  tiers  are  placed 
upon  the  top  of  each  other  that  the  owner  chooses, 
sometimes  extending  to  seven.    In  one  corner  of 
the  house,  is  carried  up  from  the  bottom,  a  wall 
ten  feet  square,  having  an  apartment  within  it 
and  rising  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  above  the 
top  of  the  four  side-walls  of  the  house.     This 
makes  the  battlement  or  tower,  for  the  defence 
of  the  house.     These  walls  are  covered  upon 
the  top  by  thorn  bushes,  in  the  same  manner  that 
garden  walls  are,  there  being  upon  the  top  of 
the  house,  no  manner  of  roof     To  secure  the 
people  and  furniture,  within  these  walls,  from 
rain,  there  are  small  rooms,  about  six  feet  wide, 
and  sometimes  extending  around  the  whole  main 


208  HOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

wall  about  eight  feet  high,  but  sometimes  raised 
two  stories  high.    In  these,  the  people  sleep  up- 
on mats.     The  roof  is  composed  of  rafters  made 
of  date-trees,  extending  from  the  main  wall  to 
the  inner  one.     Upon  these  are  placed  reeds  in 
thick  order,  and  then  covered  with  mud.     The 
centre  of  the  house  is  left  exposed  to  rain,  and 
the  water  is  conducted  off  by  a  sluice  through 
one  of  the  outer  walls.     There  is  but  one  door 
or  gate,  which  is  made  very  strong  by  rivetling 
top-ether  timbers  of  date-tree   with  iron  bolts. 
This  is  fastened  at  night  with  a  wooden  lock  oi 
the  most  curious  manufacture.     The  cattle,  of 
various  kinds,  occupy  the  open  area  within  the 
walls  during  the  night  season.     Some  of  these 
houses  have  two  or  three  different  families  oc- 
cupying them,  in  different    apartments.     The 
Shack's  house  is  the  largest  in  the  place,  stand- 
ing a  little  distance  from  the  compact  part  of  the 
town.    In  addition  to  the  common  walls,  he  had 
a  wall  about  six  rods  from  the  house  walls,  en- 
tirely surrounding  the  house,  enclosing  as  much 
as  two  acres  of  ground.     Within  it,  he  has  a 
small  church  for  his  own  devotion?,  and  that  of 
his  visitants,  which  are  very  numerous.    His  bat- 
tlement is  twenty  feet  high,  in  which  are  placed 
one  of  the  guns  of  the  British  brig  Surprise,  which 
has  been  mentioned  as  lately  lost  upon  the  wes- 
tern coast  of  Africa.     The  houses  are  built  pro- 
miscuously, without  forming  any  regular  streets. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  209 

CHAP.  XIX. 

Public  worship— fasting  season— feasting  season — circumcision 
— wreck  of  a  prize  to  the  Romp,  and  her  crew — redemption  of 
the  crew  of  the  British  brig  Surprise — Sidi  Hesham,  his  ap- 
pearance and  power — Jews,  decree  concerning  them — tobacco 
and  snuff— Hamet  Webber. 

THE  religious  ceremonies  of  the  Mahomme- 
dans,  in  families  and  small  parties  upon  the  de- 
^rts,  has  already  been  minutely  described,  and 
frequently  mentioned.  In  the  town  of  Wadinoon. 
is  a  place  consecrated  for  the  sole  purpose  of  per- 
forming their  solemn  rites,  and  manifesting  their 
faith  by  their  external  ordinances.  The  build- 
ing, in  which  they  worship,  has  outward  walls', 
built  in  the  same  manner  as  other  houses,  alrea- 
dy described  ;  but  this  has  a  flat  roof,  covering 
the  whole  at  the  top.  The  roof  is  supported  by 
pillars  in  the  inner  side  of  the  building,  built  with 
stone  and  mortar.  It  is  arched  upon  the  top ; 
and  upon  the  arches  are  painted,  very  coarsely, 
fhe  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  and  some  other  figures, 
which  cannot  be  described  particularly,  as  an 
m-sahrdu  was  not  permitted  to  enter  it ;  and  the 
only  way  I  ever  got  within  it,  was  by  exercising 
secrecy  to  gratify  my  curiosity.  Before  they 
enter  the  temple,  they  wash  themselves  in  warm- 
ed water  prepared  in  the  yard,  as  they  do  with 
sand  upon  the  deserts.  Their  mode  of  worship, 
after  they  enter,  I  cannot  describe,  as  I  never 
witnessed  it;  although  they  sulk  in  the  same 
manner  upon  the  roof  as  upon  the  deserts.  The 
building  is  small,  but  large  enough  for  s  >  small  a 


210  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

place  as  Wadinoon  ;  and  sufficiently  capacious  to 
enable  its  few  inhabitants  of  the  male  sex  to 
M^orship ;  females  never  being  allowed  to  assem- 
ble with  them.  In  the  same  house,  the  public- 
school  is  kept ;  the  mode  of  instruction  the  same 
as  before  described. 

The  fasting  season  was  a  time  of  the  greatest 
solemnity.  It  lasted  for  a  whole  moon,  begin- 
ning when  the  new  moon  first  made  its  appear- 
ance, in  June,  1816.  I  conclude  this  must  be 
the  season  of  the  annual  fast,  it  certainly  was  in 
the  season  I  resided  at  Wadinoon.  During  the 
continuance  of  this  season,  the  natives  never  ate 
or  drank  between  the  rising  and  setting  sun ;  but 
indulged  themselves  in  both,  with  great  voraci- 
ty, during  the  darkness  of  the  night.  As  I  was 
resolved  to  show  not  the  least  conformity  to  the 
faith  of  Mussulmen*  I  made  this  a  feasting  season. 
having  a  full  supply  of  tack-nerrites  and  nor)>iijps. 

The  day  after  the  fast  concluded,  the  feasting 
season  commenced.  A  spectator  would  have  con- 
cluded that  a  month's  abstinence  was  amply  sa- 
tisfied by  a  day  of  gluttony.  The  whole  cooked 
dishes  in  the  town  were  all  brought  to  the  mar- 
ket-place. Those  who  brought  many  changes 
of  dishes  fared  no  better  than  those  who  brought 
none.  It  was  "fall  to  and  spare  not  ;"  and  whe- 
ther the  system  of  Mahomet  requires  it  or  not. 
the  law  of  nature  would  dictate  that  afast  should 
follow,  as  well  as  precede  a  feast.  These  feasts 
frequently  occur,  as  the  Mahommedans  have 
many  holydays  in  honour  of  their  different  saints. 
Besides  the  general  fast,  single  fast  days  fre- 
quently occur  among  different  individuals,  at 
different  times,  and  for  different  judgments. 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  211 

The  feast  was  concluded  a  little  past  noon, 
and,  after  some  sports  in  firing,  the  ceremony  of 
circumcision  commenced.  From  the  most  frantic 
and  hoisterous  mirth,  the  whole  multitude  be- 
came, as  if  by  a  shock  of  electricity,  immediate- 
ly solemnized.  The  Jews  invariably  circumcise 
their  children  at  eight  days  old  ;  but  among  the 
Mews  and  Arabs,  no  particular  age  is  regarded ; 
but  it  is  performed  as  circumstances  make  it 
convenient.  Two  of  Bel  Cossinvs  children  were 
this  day  circumcised,  one  aged  nine,  the  other 
fourteen  years.  The  ceremony  was  performed 
in  the  yard  adjoining  the  Zham,  or  the  place  of 
religious  worship.  That,  and  the  adjoining 
grounds,  were  crowded  with  spectators.  I,  how- 
ever, mingled  with  the  rabble  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  witness  the  ceremony,  notwithstanding  I 
was  not  a  Mussulman.  It  was  performed  by  a 
Mohammedan  priest,  with  the  most  profound  so- 
lemnity. The  child  was  presented  to  the  priest 
by  the  father,  holding  him  in  his  arms  with  his 
private  parts  exposed.  The  priest  drew  the 
foreskin  as  far  forward  as  possible  without  giv- 
ing pain,  then,  with  an  Vmoose,  (knife)  he  cut  the 
skit.'  off  without  touching  the  fleshy  part,  leaving 
that  forever  afterwards  entirely  bare.  This  ope- 
ration causes  the  child  to  shriek  ;  upon  which,  a 
number  of  muskets  are  fired.  At  this  time,  a 
number  were  circumcised  from  the  age  of  about 
five  years,  to  that  of  eighteen.  Two  of  the  grand- 
children of  Bel  Cossim  were  circumcised,  the 
youngest  of  which  was  between  five  and  six 
years  of  age.  At  every  ceremony  the  muskets 
were  discharged.  The  circumcised  children 
were  kept  in  for  a  month,  and  prohibited  the  use 


212  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

of  every  species  of  fruit,  unless  it  was  prepared. 
Within  that  time,  they  generally  recovered  ;  and 
during  my  residence  in  Africa,  I  never  knew 
death  occasioned  by  circumcision.  The  black 
Africans,  that  are  brought  to  Wadinoon  from  the 
country  of  Soudan,  are  sometimes  uncircumcised. 
The  fasting-season  ended  the  24th  July,  1816, 
and  the  feasting  and  circumcision  took  place  on 
the  25th,  the  new  moon  having  appeared.  At 
about  this  time,  I  became  acquainted  with  a 
Christian  slave,  who,  a  short  time  before,  arrived 
at  Wadinoon.  His  name  was  Thomas  Davis,  and 
he  informed  me  that  he  was  an  American ;  that 
he  formerly  belonged  to  the  privateer  Romp,  of 
Baltimore ;  that  he  was  one  of  the  prize-crew  on 
board  a  Spanish  vessel,  that  had  been  captured 
by  the  Romp,  bound  to  Buenos  Ayres.  The  ves- 
sel was  wrecked  upon  the  western  coast  of  Afri- 
ca in  about  19°  North  Latitude,  in  May,  1816. 
The  captain  of  the  prize  was  drowned,  and  the 
remaining  crew,  five  in  number,  were  enslaved 
by  a  tribe  of  wandering  Arabs.  Their  names, 
besides  Davis,  were  Smith,  (drowned)  prize- 
master  ;  John  Brown  ;  George  Hall ;  John,  a  Span- 
iard, and  an  American  gentleman,  who,  I  was  in- 
formed, had  been  a  major  in  the  late  United 
States  Army,  and  had,  when  wrecked,  a  com- 
mission in  the  Army  of  the  Spanish  Patriots,  and 
was  bound  there,  as  a  passenger,  to  join  thorn. 
He  and  Brown  were  slaves  to  Sheick  AH,  chief 
of  a  tribe  of  wandering  Arabs.  Brown,  after  his 
arrival  at  Wadinoon,  which  was  in  December, 
1816,  informed  me  that  this  gentleman  died  up- 
on the  desert,  a  few  days  before  he  arrived  there, 
from  absolute  starvation,  and  that  he  buried  him 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  213 

I  published  an  article  upon  this  subject  soon  af- 
ter I  returned  to  America. 

About  this  time  I  learned,  by  the  arrival  of 
Sifli  Hesham,  at  Wadinoon,  that  the  crew  of  the 
British  brig  Surprise,  who  have  before  been  men- 
tioned as  detained  by  him  for  the  purpose  of  be- 
ing ransomed,  were  released  atMogadore,  through 
the  instrumentality  of  the  Hon.  William  Will- 
shire,  a  philanthropist,  to  whom  a  very  great 
proportion  of  the  Christian  slaves  in  Africa  have, 
for  some  time  past,  been  indebted  for  their  eman- 
cipation from  the  most  cruel  and  hopeless  bon- 
dage. 

The  appellation  Sidi  is  applied  indiscriminate- 
ly to  every  man  who  holds  a  slave  ;  so  that  I 
might  have  dignified  my  different  masters  by  the 
names  of  Sidi  Ganus,  Sidi  Meaarah,  Sidi  Harriet. 
and  Sidi  Bel  Cossim.  This  term,  by  the  Moors 
and  drabs,  is  also  applied  to  their  Saints.  When 
it  is  bestowed  upon  a  native,  having  the  power 
of  Sidi  Hesham,  I  do  not  know  how  extensive  its 
meaning  becomes.  This  Sidi  Hesham  resided 
about  fifty  miles  N.  E.  from  Wadinoon,  and  was 
often  there  during  my  residence  in  that  place. 
He  always  was  accompanied  by  a  numerous 
body-guard  of  well  armed  Arabs,  sometimes 
amounting  to  thirty,  mounted  upon  elegant,  fleet, 
well  trained  horses.  He  Mas  always  received 
by  the  natives  of  Wadinoon,  with  the  most  distin- 
guished respect.  The  most  splendid  dinner, 
which  the  place  could  provide,  was  spread  be- 
fore him.  His  guard  was  also  treated  with  that 
kind  of  attention,  which  even  great  folks  bestow 
upon  those  who  follow  in  the  train  of  a  great 
character.   While  I  was  a  resident  there,  he  was 


214  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

scouring  the  country  with  six  hundred  mounted 
Arabs,  spreading  terror  and  exciting  conster- 
nation wherever  he  went.     He  often  robbed  the 
caravans,  bound   from  Soudan  to  Fez  and  Mo- 
rocco, securing  his  plunder  in  the  fastnesses  of 
the  Atlas  mountains,  which,  as  has  been  mention- 
ed, bound  the  long  valley  in  which   Wadinoon  is 
situated  at  the  northeast.     But  a  short  time  be- 
fore I  arrived  there,  the  Moorish  troops  belong- 
ing to  the  Emperor  of  Morocco,  Moolay  Solimaan. 
drove  Sidi  Hesham  from  his  holds,  to  the  south 
of  Wadinoon;  but  coisld  not  pursue  him  through 
the  desert,  where  he  and  his  clan  were  at  home. 
The  Moors  encamped  upon  a  small  hill  upon 
the  east  of  the  town,  planted  their  cannon  there, 
and  alarmed  the  place  for  a  number  of  days. 
Great  numbers  of  slaves  fled   from  their  Arab 
masters,  and  joined  the  Moorish  army.     They 
however  decamped  without  destroying  the  place, 
which  might  easily  have  been  effected  by  a  twelve 
pounder;  there  being  no  cannon  in  the  town. 
Indeed,  had  it  been  lined  with  a  park  of  artille- 
ry, the  total  ignorance  of  the  Arabs  in  enginery, 
would  have  rendered  them  useless. 

I  shall  have  occasion  to  mention  the  country 
inhabited  by  this  powerful  chief,  in  my  tour  from 
Wadinoon  to  Mo^adore. 

Sidi  Hesham,  in  his  person,  is  six  feet  high.  He 
is  an  old  man,  with  a  very  full  white  beard  hang- 
ing low  on  the  breast.  His  haick  and  turban 
were  of  the  finest  texture  of  that  country.  His 
fine  blue  broadclo<h  cloak  was  trimmed  quite 
round  with  red  siik.  His  morocco  boot-legs 
reached  from  his  knees,  and  were  made  fast  to 
his  Moorish  slippers,  over  which  were  buckled 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  215 

large  silver  spurs.  His  belts  were  broad,  and  of 
red  Morocco,  crossing  at  the  breast  and  at  the 
back.  From  one  was  suspended  his  immense 
powder-horn,  almost  covered  with  broad  bands 
of  shining  brass  ;  from  the  other  hung  his  long 
burnished  cutlass.  Around  his  waist  was  wound 
his  broad  scarlet  sash,  confining  his  belts  to  his 
body.  His  long  Moorish  musket  was  decorated 
with  silver  bands  from  the  lock  to  the  muzzle. 
The  breech  was  of  ivory,  and  that  part  of  the 
stock  composed  of  black  wood,  was  filled  with 
ivory  stars  curiously  inlaid.  His  horse  was  an 
Arabian  courser,  of  the  highest  blood,  and  a 
beautiful  milk-white.  His  flowing  mane  separa- 
ted in  the  middle,  covering  his  neck  upon  each 
side.  His  fore-top  was  confined  by  a  broad  fore- 
head piece  hanging  down  over  his  eyes,  and  al- 
most concealing  them.  His  long  thick  tail  fell 
to  the  ground.  He  was  caparisoned  with  a 
Moorish  saddle,  covered  with  red  broadcloth. 
The  stirrups  covered  half  of  the  bottom  of  He- 
sham's  feet.  His  portmanteau  was  striped  with 
black,  yellow,  and  red,  and  richly  tasselled  at 
each  end.  When  mounted  upon  this  courser, 
SMi  Hesham  would  excite  admiration,  mingled 
with  terror.  The  appearance  of  the  principal 
Sidis  is  similar  to  that  of  Hesham.  Their  horses 
and  muskets  differ  but  little  \  and  take  them  and 
their  clans  together,  perhaps  the  world  hardly 
affords  a  more  desperate  band. 

The  Jews  formerly  resorted  to  Wadinoon  in 
considerable  numbers  for  the  purposes  of  traffic; 
but  a  Jew  is  esteemed  but  little  higher  than  a 
Christian,  although  they  are  never  enslaved.  At 
the  time  J  came  to  this  place,  I  often  saw  them 


216  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

there ;  but  during  my  residence,  a  Jew  was  guil- 
ty of  some  deception  or  fraud  in  regard  to  a  let- 
ter sent  by  the  Sheick,  or  governor,  to  Sidi  Hesh- 
am,  and  a  decree  was  passed,  that  no  Jew  should 
enter  the  town  ;  and  1  never  saw  an  Israelite  there 
after  that  time.  An  intelligent  Jew  informed  me 
that  by  the  law,  none  of  his  race  were  permitted 
to  purchase  or  hold  Christian  slaves  upon  pain 
of  death  ;  and  that  a  Jew  was  slain  but  a  short 
time  before,  for  violating  it,  by  having  one  in  his 
possession.  They  stand  in  awe  of  both  Moors 
and  Arabs.  It  is  a  subject  of  wonder,  that  the 
Jews  ^the  once  favoured  people  of  Heaven,  should, 
even  down  to  the  nineteenth  century,  humble 
themselves  before  the  descendants  of  Ishmael, 
the  most  despised  and  degraded  of  all  the  an- 
cient children  of  Abraham. 

The  season  had  now  advanced  to  the  month 
of  September.  The  tobacco  was  sufficiently  ri- 
pened, to  cut  and  cure.  It  is  not  so  large  as  that 
produced  in  North-America,  but  very  similar  in 
its  appearance.  The  method  of  curing  it  is,  by 
cutting  off  the  stock,  just  above  each  leaf,  begin- 
ning at  the  bottom  one.  A  bunch  is  then  tied 
together  at  the  union  of  the  leaf  with  the  stock. 
It  is  then  laid  upon  the  flat  roofs  of  the  rooms 
within  the  main  walls  of  the  houses,  and  remains 
there  until  sufficiently  dried  and  cured  to  smoke 
at  home,  or  send  off  to  the  desert.  Snuff  is  made 
by  pulverizing  dried  tobacco  between  stones. 
and  mixing  with  it  a  weed  of  strong  and  delicious 
flavor.  With  this  they  frequently  rub  their  teeth, 
which  are  almost  invariably  white. 

Merchants  are  constantly  arriving  at  Wadi- 
uooii  from  the  Zahara  desert,  belonging  to  dif- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  217 

ferent  wandering  tribes.  Among  them,  I  often 
saw  my  kind  master  Ha?net  Webber,  of  whom,  and 
from  every  one  who  arrived  here  from  the  desert, 
I  inquired  concerning  the  situation  of  the  Chris- 
tian slaves  among  the  wandering  Arabs;  and 
learned  that  two  Americans,  one  white  and  one 
black  were  dead.  From  the  accounts  I  received,! 
suspect  the  white  slave  must  have  been  Antonio, 
and  the  black  one  Dick.  Hamet  always  seemed 
rejoiced  to  see  me,  and  frequently  told  me  he 
saved  my  life.  This  I  believed  without  his  as- 
sertion. I  always  acknowledged  my  gratitude, 
and  told  him  I  would  amply  reward  him  if  he 
would  come  to  my  country.  He  would  ask  me. 
what  I  would  give  ?  He  asked  me  if  there  was 
a  God  in  my  country?  wondered  why  Christians 
did  not  *SV/e;  and  be  circumcised;  and  would 
devoutly  exclaim  "  Sheda  Mahommed,  Rahsoot 
Mah." 

CHAP.  XX. 

.Yature  of  government  among  Arabs — marriage  ceremonies — in- 
terment of  dead — the  Saint,  Sidi  Timah — a  mound — practice 
of  physic — amusements — ransom  of  Porter — quarrel  between 
Wadinoon  and  Akkadia — a  food — ploughing  season — descrip- 
tion of  locusts — muttomorahs. 

WHILE  at  Wadinoon,  I  took  every  opportu- 
nity in  my  power  to  ascertain  the  nature  of  the 
government  in  operation.  My  advantages  to  ob- 
tain correct  information  upon  this  important  sub- 
ject were  of  necessity  limited ;  but  I  will  com- 
municate what  little  I  do  know. 

The  Sheick,  or  governor,  has  a  council  con- 
T 


218  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

sisting  of  all  the  principal  natives  of  Wadinoon. 
They  frequently  assemble  at  the  governor's 
house,  both  to  make  laws  and  judge  upon  the 
violations  of  them.  The  government  of  Wadi- 
noon extends  through  most  of  the  tribes  inhabit- 
ing the  northern  parts  of  the  Desert  of  Zahara. 
From  all  the  observations  I  made,  and  from  all 
the  information  I  could  obtain,  1  feel  confident 
that  the  tribes  have  a  distinct  government  among 
themselves,  exercised  by  their  several  Shrieks  ; 
and  that  the  government  of  Wadinoon  exercised 
a  sort  of  supreme  control  over  the  whole.  This 
conclusion  is  drawn  from  the  fact,  that  minor 
offences  are  tried  and  punished  upon  the  desert; 
and  that  those  of  greater  enormity  are  tried  and 
punished  by  the  authority  of  that  place;  some- 
times by  a  council  holden  at  the  Shriek's  house 
in  Wadinoon  ;  and  sometimes  by  the  Shriek  and 
council  holding  a  session,  or  court,  in  the  inte- 
rior, upon  the  desert.  During  my  residence,  a 
controversy  arose  between  a  pr.rt  of  the  tribe  of 
the  Wiled  Abousseboh,  and  a  part  of  the  Wiled 
Adrialla,  at  tbr  fi*Ud  Mouessa  Ah.  The  first  men- 
tioned tribe  demanded  a  number  of  Izhmar/s,  or 
camels  of  burthen,  of  the  last.  The  Adrialla  re- 
fused, and  a  contest  ensued.  Expresses  were 
immediately  despatched  to  Wadinoon  for  the 
Shriek  and  council  to  repair  to  the  scene  of  con- 
troversy. The  express  arrived  at  12  o'clock  at 
night,  and  in  less  than  thirty  minutes,  the  Shriek 
and  council  were  armed,  mounted,  and  upon  the 
march.  Bel  Cossim's  son,  Hanmdx,  went  in  his 
stead.  Before  they  arrived  at  the  BHed  Mouessa 
AUy  a  battle  had  commenced.  It  was  fought  by 
armed  Arabs  mounted  upon  horses.     While  the 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  219 

battle  was  raging,  the  Sheicfc  and  council  arri- 
ved, and  a  cessation  of  hostilities  immediately 
took  place.  A  number  of  the  Aboussebah  were 
slain  and  five  of  trieir  horses.  The  «.  rialla  lost 
no  men,  and  but  a  single  horse.  The  S/ieick  and 
council  decided  the  controversy  in  favour  of  the 
Adrialla  ;  and  the  Aboussebahs  were  compelled  to 
forfeit  to  them  a  number  of  camels,  as  a  compen- 
sation for  the  injury.  The  particulars  of  this 
contest,  and  the  manner  of  its  settlement,  I  had 
from  the  Spanish  slave  who  has  before  been 
mentioned,  and  who  was  himself  in  the  action, 
upon  the  side  of  the  Adrialla.  The  Sheick  and 
council  were  absent  from  Wadinoon  seven  days 
upon  this  business. 

I  never  knew  the  public  authority  interfere  to 
enforce  the  collection  of  debts  ;  leaving  it  to 
creditors  to  obtain  satisfaction  in  their  own  way  ; 
which  is  generally  done  by  taking  off  the  blan- 
ket, &c.  from  the  back  of  a  debtor  without  cere- 
mony, if  he  refuses  payment.  Difficulties  but 
rarely  occur  from  this  source,  and  I  never  saw 
any  character,  in  any  part  of  Africa,  that  exer- 
cised the  functions  of  a  lawyer. 

The  punishment  for  offences  and  breaches  of 
the  peace  is,  by  imposing  a  fine.  I  never  saw 
any  corporal  punishment  inflicted  for  any  of- 
fence. A  part  of  the  fine  is  paid  to  the  witness- 
es, upon  the  conviction  of  the  offender. 

Marriage  is  effected  by  the  parents  of  the  par- 
ties intending  to  join  in  wedlock.  Private  in- 
terviews ace  never  permitted  between  the  par- 
ties, until  after  the  marriage  rites  are  solemni- 
zed. The  parents  of  the  bride  furnish  the  ne- 
cessary household  furniture,  and  the  groom  must 


220  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.       , 

furnish  a  house  to  put  that  and  his  bride  in.  A 
feast  of  keskoosoo,  el-ham,  and  fruits,  is  always 
given  at  a  marriage,  and  it  is  always  conclu- 
ded with  a  dance.  The  Mahommedan  priest 
who  marries  them,  receives  a  reward  proportion 
ate  to  the  wealth  of  the  groom. 

At  the  birth  of  a  child,  a  feast  is  also  given  to 
the  connections  of  the  parents  of  it;  and  if  it  be- 
longs to  the  Sheick,  or  to  a  principal  Arab,  the 
feast  is  splendid,  and  numerously  attended.  The 
different  sexes  upon  these,  as  well  as  upon  all 
other  occasions,  feast  in  different  apartments, 
and  often  upon  different  days. 

The  interment  of  the  dead  is  also  attended 
with  a  feast.  There  being  but  a  little  over  six 
hundred  inhabitants  of  all  kinds  at  Wadinoon. 
but  three  or  four  deaths  happened  while  I  was 
there.  One  was  that  of  Braham  Builidlalrs  (the 
Sheick's)  mother.  A  great  quantity  of  keskoosoo 
was  made  upon  this  occasion,  in  which  all  the 
female  slaves  assisted  ;  and  the  feast  was  wholly 
confined  to  the  female  sex.  In  the  grave  yard, 
is  a  building  of  two  apartments  for  the  different 
sexes  to  perform  religious  ceremonies  in.  There 
are  a  number  of  burying  grounds  in  the  vicinity 
of  Wadinoon,  and  great  numbers  of  monuments 
of  rough  stones  standing  in  the  ground,  without 
any  inscriptions  upon  them.  This  would  induce 
a  foreigner  to  conclude,  that  this  place  was  for- 
merly much  larger  than  it  was  in  1816. 

At  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  town,  is  a  na- 
tural, circular  mound  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  dia- 
meter, and  very  regular.  It  rises  as  many  as 
seventy-five  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  valley. 
Near  the  tep  of  it,  is  a  cfrcu!  ir  brush  fence,  with- 


KOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  221 

in  which  was  formerly  interred  a  saint,  whom  the 
natives  called  Sidi  Timah.  He  was  esteemed  a 
prophet,  and  was  supposed  to  possess  the  pow- 
er of  healing  diseases.  His  memory  is  cherish- 
ed with  the  wiost  solemn  veneration.  The  na- 
tives never  pass  this  mound  without  performing- 
religious  ceremonies,  facing  inwards.  They  an- 
nually celebrate  the  day  of  his  death,  cooking 
all  kinds  of  food  within  the  fence,  and  pouring  it 
upon  the  ground,  or  leaving  it  in  the  pots.  With- 
in the  fence,  is  an  immense  number  of  them, 
some  having  the  appearance  of  great  antiquity. 
Whatever  is  deposited  within  this  fence,  is  al- 
ways entirely  secure.  The  natives  continue  to 
pray  to  this  saint,  and  believe  that  he  still  heals 
their  diseases  by  his  divine  power.  I  have  often 
seen  the  natives,  when  sick,  proceed  with  the 
most  solemn  devotion,  to  this  mound,  and  pray 
to  Sidi  Timah.  At  the  base  of  it  are  three  vaults, 
in  which  some  great  characters  have  been  inter- 
red. The  natives  say,  that  the  ghost  of  an  aged 
female,  buried  at  a  tittle  distance,  rises  often  in 
the  night  season  and  walks  around  the  ashes  of 
Sidi  Timah.  Single  graves  are  often  seen  with 
large  heaps  of  brush  and  stones  placed  upon  the 
top.  Between  the  town  and  this  mound,  J  saw 
the  ruins  of  an  ancient  wall,  enclosing  a  conside- 
rable piece  of  ground,  now  covered  with  bushes, 
which  the  natives  told  me  was  in  past  ages  oc- 
cupied by  the  cn-sahrau.  Similar  places  are  seen 
in  other  parts  of  the  country  near  Wadinoon. 
Modesty  requires  that  I  should  leave  the  privi- 
lege of  conjecturing  to  the  reader. 

There  are  at  Wadinoon  no  professors  of  medi- 
N  2 


322  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

cine  ;  but  all  the  inhabitants  have  a  mode  oi  re- 
lieving their  own  pains  and  those  that  are  sick, 
peculiar  to  themselves.  They  administer  a  bit- 
ter weed  for  internal  complaints.  For  rheuma- 
tism, cramps,  &c.  the  patient  lies  down  upon  the 
belly,  and  a  man  jumps  up  and  down  upon  his 
back.  This  is  the  modus  operandi,  and  whether 
it  produces  relief  secundum  artem,  I  know  not ;  but 
cures  are  effected  in  this  way.  Tar  and  grease 
are  applied  to  flesh  wounds.  The  headache  is 
cured  by  pinching  the  forehead  and  temples  with 
the  fingers,  or  biting  them  with  the  teeth. 

The  amusements  of  the  men  at  Wadinoon  con- 
sist in  training  and  riding  horses,  which  they  do 
with  the  greatest  skill  and  elegance.  Shooting 
at  a  mark  is  an  amusement  common  to  every  one. 
and  some  fire  with  admirable  accuracy.  Cast- 
ing a  single  stone  at  a  number  of  small  ones, 
standing  loosely  upon  the  ground,  is  often  prac 
tised.  They  often  throw  in  a  murzoon  each,  a 
silver  piece  of  two  cents  value,  and  the  most  ski) 
ml  ones  get  the  whole. — Dancing  is  the  onh 
amusement  in  which  the  sexes  unite.  The  mu- 
sic is  made  upon  a  tambarine,  not  unlike  those  of- 
ten seen  in  N.  England.  The  natives  are  pas- 
sionately fond  of  music;  and  however  wretched 
it  is,  it  almost  captivates  them.  A  Moor,  from 
Fez,  arrived  while  I  was  at  Wadinoon,  with  a 
rude  fiddle,  which,  so  far  from  "  discoursing  mosf 
eloquent  music"  would  make  a  hearer  recollect 
Burns'  description  of  a  "  Scotch  scraper,  whost 
tones  imitated  the  dying  agonies  of  a  soiv  under  th< 
hands  of  the  butcher."  He  however  received  many 
presents,  and  went  off  well  loaded.  By  the  use 
of  the  musket,  as  an  amusement,  the  Arabs  ae~ 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  223 

quire  all  the  knowledge  of  the  manual  exercise 
they  possess ;  there  being  no  such  thing  as  in- 
struction in  this,  or  in  military  maneuvering. 

About  the  middle  of  October  18  J  6,  Porter  re- 
ceived a  letter  from  Mr.  Willshire  dated  the  8th 
of  that  month,  which  1  read.     It  informed   him 
that  the  terms  of  his  ransom  were  agreed  upon 
between  him,  and  his  (Porters)  master,  who  sent 
to  his  wife,  by  a  messenger,  to  send  Porter  im- 
mediately to  Mogadore.     Bel  Cossir.i  discovered 
that  Porter  had  been  ransomed,  and  felt  anxious 
to  obtain  a  large  ransom  for  me.     I  went  with 
him  to  the  house  of  Porter's  master,  having  writ- 
ten a  hasty  line  to  Mr.  Willshire,  in  relation  to 
my  own  situation,  which  I  gave  to  Porter.     Por- 
ter left  Wadinoon  with  the  messenger,  and  I  re- 
turned to  my  slavery  with  little  hopes  of  being 
ransomed,  as  Bel  Cossim  was  determined  to  hold 
me,  until  he  could  obtain  an  exorbitant  sum  for 
my  liberation.     This  letter  to  Mr.  Willshire  was 
never  answered  ;  nor  did  I  ever  receive  any  an- 
swer to  those  I  before  had  written,  nor  to  those 
I  afterwards  wrote.    I  feel  the  utmost  assurance, 
that  that  excellent  man  had  the  best  reasons  for 
his  silence,  as  he  afterwards  deeply  interested 
himself  in  my  discharge.     My  master  Bel  Cossim 
had  been  the  owner  of  many  Christian  slaves, 
and  purchasing  them  at  a  low  rate,  and  demand- 
ing a  great  sum  for  their  ransom,  was  one  of  the 
great  sources  of  his  great  wealth,     I  was  now  the 
only  Christian  slave  in  Wadinoon,  except  Davis, 
who  has  been  mentioned  as  one  of  the  crew  of 
the  prize  ship  that  was  wrecked  in  May  1816. 

During  the  whole  of  the  month  of  November, 
and  a  port  of  December,  I  was  constantly  em- 


224  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

ployed  in  building  a  mud  wall  around  the  exten- 
sive gardens  of  Bel  Cossim.  It  was  nearly  com- 
pleted, when  the  rainy  season  commenced  ;  and 
the  hard  labor  of  six  weeks  was  demolished  in  a 
day. 

In  the  month  of  December  a  serious  quarrel 
commenced  between  the  town  of  Wadinoon  and 
Akkadia*  a  town  occupied  by  the  Shilluh,  about 
fifteen  miles  to  the  north,  in  the  same  valley  in 
which  Wadinoon  is  situated.  The  quarrel  was 
occasioned  by  some  injury  a  Shilluk  woman  had 
sustained  from  my  master  Bel  Cossim,  Brahim 
Abdallab  his  brother,  or  Hamada  his  son.  The 
two  towns  espoused  the  cause  of  their  own  people. 
Wadinoon  was  in  perpetual  alarm  from  this  time, 
until  I  left  it,  in  the  February  afterwards.  The 
Shilluh  were  determined,  if  possible,  to  have  the 
blood  of  Bel  Cossim  or  Hamada.  No  regular 
warfare  was  carried  on  between  the  parties ;  but 
constant  depredations  were  committed  by  each. 
The  ordinary  business  of  farming  could  not  be 
prosecuted  by  individuals  singly,  but  they  went 
out  in  large  parties  to  cultivate  the  land,  each 
one  being  armed  with  a  musket.  Night  alarms 
were  incessant.  My  master  kept  an  armed  man 
in  his  battlement,  and  was  in  constant  fear  of  his 
life.  He  acted  as  if  guilt  preyed  upon  him ;  and 
shewed  by  his  conduct  that  "  the  wicked  flee  when 
no  man  pursueth."  He  was  universally  detested, 
even  by  his  own  neighbors;  and  nothing  but 
the  security  which  wealth  often  affords  to  a  yil- 
lanous  wretch,  preserved  him  from  assassination 
in  his  own  iiouse. 

From  the  15th  of  December  the  rainy  season 
continued  for  five  days  and   nights,  and  there 


ROBBINS*  JOURNAL.  225 

could  hardly  be  said  to  have  been  for  that  time 
a  cessation.  From  the  north,  and  the  south,  the 
water  poured  down  in  torrents  from  the  two 
ranges  of  mountains  before  described,  into  the 
valley  which,  as  mentioned,  is  six  miles  in  width, 
diminishing  as  it  stretches  toward  the  Atlas 
mountains.  From  these  mountains,  for  a  great 
dis^nce,  and  from  an  immense  height,  the  rivers 
of  water,  suddenly  created  by  the  rain,  all  bent 
(heir  course  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  this  great 
valley.  The  smaller  valleys  all  discharged  their 
watery  contents  into  it.  In  a  short  time,  the 
great  valley  began  to  present  a  river  of  shallow 
water  six  miles  in  width,  excepting  where  the 
adjoining  mountains  projected  into  it.  Upon 
these  projections,  which  might  now  be  called 
promontories,  the  numerous  v/llages  or  towns 
were  situated.  The  water  continued  to  rise  for 
six  days,  until  the  whole  valley,  from  the*  Atlas 
mountains  to  Wadinoon,  and  from  thence  south- 
west to  the  sea,  a  distance  probably  of  one  hun- 
dred  and  fifty  miles,  was  covered  with  water 
from  five  to  eight  feet  in  depth.  Wadinoon  was 
entirely  surrounded  with  the  flood,  and  upon  the 
south  side  of  the  valley,  this  immense  body  of 
water  passed  with  a  considerable  current.  In 
ihrce  days  after  the  rain  ceased,  the  valley  was 
nearly  emptied  of  water.  For  a  number  of  days, 
accounts  were  constantly  received  of  disasters. 
Numerous  camels,  and  great  quantities  of  goods 
and  grain  were  destroyed  ;  and  many  lives  were 
lost.  Wadinoon  suffered  but  a  little,  from  its 
elevated  situation,  although  some  gardens  situ- 
ated low  in  the  valley  wei;e  injured,  and  many 
walls  of  the  houses  and  the  gardens  sustained 


226  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

injury  from  the  long  continuance  of  the  rain. 
From  appearances  in  the  neighborhood  of  Wa- 
dinoon,  it  must  formerly  have  suffered  severely, 
either  from  floods  or  enemies,  as  there  are  great 
numbers  of  walls  in  ruins. 

During  the  rain,  I  was  almost  constantly  ex- 
posed to  it,  in  securing  tobacco,  digging  drains 
to  carry  off  water,  and  in  other  services.  S^tne 
of  "the  small  rooms  were  partially  demolished  ; 
and,  during  the  rain,  an  ancient  wall,  standing 
within  the  main  walls  of  Bel  Cossim's  house,  fell 
with  a  tremendous  crash  into  the  inner  yard. 
Fortunately,  no  man  or  beast  was  situated  with- 
in its  destructive  reach. 

As  soon  as  the  waters  had  subsided  from  the 
face  of  the  earth,  the  ploughing  commenced. 
The  ground  in  this  valley  is  never  ploughed  in 
the  dry  scasofi ;  as  it  would  be  useless  to  put  seed 
into  it  during  the  continuance  of  it.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  imagine  a  scene  of  greater  activity  and 
animation  than  this  valley  presented.  From  the 
Sheick  to  the  black  steve — from  the  camel  of 
twenty-five  hands  in  height,  to  the  most  diminu- 
tive mule — Moors,  Arabs,  Arrabbere  Shilluhs, 
Christian  and  African  slaves,  were  all  in  motion. 
Zahara  poured  in  her  hordes  of  famished  Ish- 
maelites,  and  the  long  valley  disgorged  her  con- 
tents of  surfeited  merchants.  At  the  dawn  of 
day,  Mahomet  was  worshipped  ;  and  the  keskoo- 
soo  was  swallowed  with  despatch.  The  beasts 
were  geared  to  the  plough,  and,  followed  by  men. 
were  hastily  driven  to  the  adjoining  fields.  From 
the  rising  to  the  setting  sun,  they  both  travelled 
as  steadily  as  that  scorching  luminar}r ;  and  ne- 
ver ceased  labor,  until  darkness  rendered  it  im- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  227 

practicable.  The  keskoosoo  was  again  eaten,  and 
the  exhausted,  fatigued,  and  despairing  slave 
was  permitted,  for  a  season,  to  repose.  This 
service  I  was  compelled,  incessantly,  to  perform 
for  forty  days.  An  unusual  quantity  of  ground 
was  ploughed  this  season,  as  many  fields  were 
cleared  of  bushes  which  must  have  been  of  six 
year's  growth.  Some  of  the  oldest  people  told 
me  they  never  knew  so  much  ploughed. 

The  soil,  within  this  valley,  when  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  rain  falls,  is  astonishingly  fertile.  It 
is  of  a  dark  rich  color ;  has  but  few  stones  and 
is  easily  cultivated.  The  grain  is  sowed  before 
it  is  ploughed,  and  one  ploughing  serves  for  the 
whole.  The  plough  is  of  the  most  simple  con- 
struction. It  consists  of  a  small,  crooked  piece 
of  hard  wood,  forming  a  knee.  The  perpen- 
dicular part  of  it  makes  the  handle ;  the  hori- 
zontal part,  the  bottom  of  the  plough ;  the  for- 
ward end  of  that  is  shod,  or  pointed  with  iron ; 
the  beam  is  mortised  into  the  handle,  in  such  a 
manner,  as  to  give  the  bottom  a  proper  pitch, 
depending  upon  the  angle  the  knee  makes.  It 
is  very  light,  and  may  be  carried,  without  diffi- 
culty, in  one  hand.  The  people  plough  with 
every  species  of  animals  in  their  possession — 
camels,  horses,  asses,  mules,  and  cows.  Each 
one  drives  his  own  beast,  and  holds  his  own 
plough.  The  camel  is  guided  by  a  single  rein, 
fastened  by  a  ring  into  one  of  its  nostrils.  A  man 
and  beast  will  generally  plough  an  acre  in  a  day. 
While  the  last  fields  were  ploughing,  those  first 
ploughed,  had  barley  twenty  inches  high. 

As  the  grain  came  up,  the  flights  of  locusts  be- 
gan to  infest  the  country.     They  came  from  the 


228  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  / 

southeast  Without  a  view  of  one  of  these  flights. 
a  man  can  have  no  idea  of  the  horror  excited 
upon  their  approach.  When  they  are  above  the 
spectator,  in  the  atmosphere,  they  almost  ob- 
scure the  sun — -when  they  light  upon  the  vege- 
tables on  the  earth,  they  completely  cover  them, 
and,  in  a  very  few  minutes,  devour  them.  I  have 
before  described  the  manner  of  gathering  and 
cooking  these  insects  upon  the  desert.  They 
are  sometimes  boiled  at  Wadinoon  for  food  for 
men  and  beasts.  Early  in  the  morning,  before 
they  begin  to  fly,  I  have  known  a  bushel  and  a 
half  gathered  from  a  bush  six  feet  high.  They 
cover  them  as  completely  as  a  swarm  of  bees 
do  the  bough  upon  which  they  light.  The  locust 
of  Africa  more  nearly  resembles  the  large  grass- 
hopper of  N.  England  than  any  other  insect. 
The  body  is  of  a  reddish  brown  color,  about  two 
inches  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  through. 
From  the  head  to  the  end  of  the  wings  is  nearly 
three  inches.  When  devouring  vegetation,  they 
make  a  noise  similar  to  small  pigs  eating  graiii. 
Bel  Cossim  had  five  acres  of  guinea  corn  totally 
destroyed,  while  some  fields  near  were  untouch- 
ed. 

Upon  the  5th  of  February,  1817,  the  great 
Moloode  was  holden  at  Ahktu  about  an  hundred 
miles  east  of  Wadinoon.  These,  as  I  learned, 
are  annually  held  in  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. It  is  a  sort  of  wholesale  fair,  and  the  natives, 
by  wholesale,  attend  them.  Wadinoon  was  al- 
most divested  of  male  inhabitants,  leaving  the 
female  ishmaelites  to  manage  affairs  at  home.  I 
urged  Bel  Cossim. to  carry  me  there  and  sell  me ; 
but  he  declined.    He  however  took  a  letter  from 


KOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  229 

me  directed  to  Mr.  Wiltshire,  which  I  afterwards 
found  at  a  Jew's  house  among  the  Shilluh. 

After  the  ploughing  was  through,  the  people 
were  employed  in  digging  into  the  earth  Mutto- 
morahs,  to  contain  the  grain  when  harvested, 
They  are  dug  into  stone,  or  earth  and  shelving 
rocks  united  as  hard  as  stone.  A  circular  hole, 
of  four  feet  diameter,  is  dug  until  it  comes  to  a 
greyish  slate  stone.  x\nother  round  hole  is  then 
begun,  of  one  foot  and  a  half  diameter  at  the  top. 
and  as  it  is  dug  into  the  stone,  is  constantly  wi- 
dened. By  these  means,  the  hole  becomes  large 
enough  to  let  the  body  into  it,  and  there  to  con- 
tinue to  peck  up  the  stone,  and  pass  the  frag- 
ments out  of  the  hole  at  the  top.  Some  of  these 
are  dug  large  enough  to  contain  from  three  to 
five  hundred  bushels.  When  the  grain  is  put  in. 
the  small  hole  is  covered  with  a  flat  stone,  and 
the  large  one  filled  even  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  securing  the  grain  from  the  weather,  and 
concealing  it  from  thieves.  These  vaults  are 
made  to  preserve  grain  for  a  time  of  famine. 
Bel  Cossim  had  numbers  of  these  vaults,  and 
shewed  me  grain  taken  from  them  which  had 
remained  in  them  three  years,  in  the  soundest 
possible  state.  I  was  employed  in  digging  one 
of  these  muttomorahs,  in  the  lowest  state  of  de- 
jection, expecting  to  be  taken  from  it,  only  to  be 
compelled  to  assist  in  securing  the  immense 
fields  of  Bel  Cossim's  grain,  when  a  cheering 
prospect  of  redemption  burst  upon  me,  like  the 
light  of  the  sun,  after  the  cheerless  gloom  of  a 
Lapland  winter. 

U 


230  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

CHAP.  XXI. 

Manuscript  i»  English — author  purchased  by  a  Shilluh — leaves 
Wadinoon — dangerous  travelling —distant  view  of  Santa  Cruz 
— monuments — -EVajjah  Mahomet — letter  and  express  sent  to 
Mogadon-  The  Shilluhs— productions  of  their  country — story 
of  the  Spaniard — message  from  Mogadore — passport  to  thai 
place. 

UPON  the  16th  day  of  February,  1817,  as  I 
was  at  the  market  in  Wadinoon,  where  1  saw 
Davis,  and  also  Brown,  who  had  arrived  in  De- 
cember, a  Shilluh  presented  to  me  a  piece  of" 
manuscript,  asking  me  if  the  language  was  Ingle- 
sis?  I  immediately  saw  that  it  was,  and  read  it.  It 
was  headed  "Mogadon"  but  was  not  dated.  The 
substance  of  it  was  in  very  nearly  this  language. 
*'  To  any  Christian  Slave — "  You  are  requested  to 
sign  this  paper  at  the  bottom,  with  your  name  ;  arid 
mention  thi  name  of  the  vessel  in  which  you  were 
wrecked — the  place  where,  and  the  time  when,  and  of 
what  nation  you  are  ;  and  return  it  to  the  one  who 
offers  it  to  you."     The  paper  had  no  signature, 
and  was  written  in  an  elegant  hand.     My  master 
was  eyeing  me  with  real  Arab  sagacity.     I  press- 
ed the  Shilluh  to  explain — he  looked  at  Bel  Cos- 
sim,  remained   mute  a  minute,  and  discovered 
the  arch  cunning  of  his  tribe.     He  {hen  loudly 
said,  in  Arab,  "  I  shall  go  in  the  morning  to  Moga 
dor  e,  and  will  carry  a  letter  for  you"  and  immedi- 
ately walked  hastily  off  to  the  fair.     Bel  Cossim 
also  went  off,  and  left  me  to  reflect  upon  this 
strange  interview.    Hope  and  despair  alternate- 
ly prevailed  in  my  mind.      I  had  before  conclu- 
ded that  my  fate  was  fixed  for  life;  and  my  Ma- 
hommedan  acquaintance  at  Wadinoon,  which 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  231 

embraced  almost  every  male  Arab  and  Moor  in 
the  place,  had  often  urged  me  to  espouse  the 
faith  of  a  good  Mussulman — relieve  myself  from 
slavery — take  an  Ishmaelitish  wife,  and  become 
great.  I  cannot  tell  what  increasing  misery 
might  have  driven  me  to;  but  I  was  determined 
to  resist  this  apostacy  to  the  last.  Upon  the 
next  morning,  (17th)  the  Shilluh  with  two  com- 
panions, all  mounted  upon  mules,  called  early 
at  the  house  of  Bel  Cossim.  He  asked  me  if  mv 
letter  was  ready,  and  appeared  to  be  in  the 
greatest  possible  haste.  I  ran  i:>  to  entreat  my 
master  for  a  piece  of  paper  and  a  reed  to  write 
with.  He  immediately  came  out  and  spoke  with 
the  Shilluh.  They  began  an  earnest  conversa- 
tion in  the  Shilluh  tongue,  which  I  did  not  fully 
understand  ;  but  soon  learned  from  some  Arabic 
words  used,  that  Bel  Cossim  demanded  two 
hundred  dollars  for  my  ransom,  and  that  the 
Shilluh  offered  one  hundred  and  fifty.  My  mas- 
ter declared  that  the  money  was  sent  from  the 
Consul  at  Mogadore  for  my  ransom — the  Shilluh 
denied  it:  said  he  wanted  me  for  his  own  slave, 
and  was  about  departing.  Bel  Cossim  came 
down  to  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  dollars, 
and  the  Shilluh  hastily  rode  off!  The  pains  of 
death  itself  could  not  exceed  my  distress.  My 
master  noticed  my  agony,  and  very  coolly  said, 
;i  never  mind  if.  he  ivill  soon  be  back — he  has  got  the 
money."  I  did  not  allow  myself  to  hope  it ;  but 
very  soon  saw  the  Shilluh  returning.  The  mo- 
ney was  paid — f  took  the  last  mess  of  keskoosoo 
under  the  walls  of  Bel  Cossim  Abdallatis  house, 
and  left  it  for  ever.  We  had  not  proceeded 
more  than  a  mile,  before  the  Shilluh  hastily  re 


232  BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL. 

tamed  back — made  a  bargain  with  the  master 
of  the  Spaniard  frequently  mentioned,  and  sent 
off  an  Arab  with  a  mule  after  him  to  the  BHed 
Mouessa  AU.     At  night  the  Spaniard  arrived  at 
Wadinoon.     As  to  Brown  and  Davis  the  Shi  Huh 
declared  them  to  be  uzmuntoots  (pirates)  and 
would  not  buy  them.     They  joined  in  writing  a 
letter  to  Mr.  Wiilshire  which  the  Shilluh  took. 
During  the  absence  of  the  Arab  who  went  after 
the  Spaniard,  1  went  about  the  town  with  Davis 
and  Brown,  joining  with  them  in  lamentations 
that  they  were  still  to  remain  in  slavery.     1  felt 
by  no  means  certain  concerning  myself.     I  was 
still  the  property  of  an  Ishmaelite,  and  still  sub- 
ject to  the  capricious  whims  of  that  indescriba- 
ble race  of  creatures;  I  however  had  animoting 
hopes.     During  the  day,  I  never  entered   the 
walls  of  Bel  Cossim's  house,  although  urged  to 
go  in  and  eat.    I  kept  in  view  of  my  Shilluh  mas- 
ter.   About  8  o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  Shilluh. 
with  three  companions,  the  Spaniard  and  myself 
set  off  from  the  •  recti  town  of  Wadinoon,  which  I 
have  minutely  and  faithfully  described,  on  our 
way  toward  the  B^ledSidi  ilcsham.    At  about  ten 
miles  distance,  which  we  travelled  rapidly  in  the 
dark,  over  stones  and   bushes,  we  arrived  at  a 
Douar  of  tents — refreshed  ourselves  with  laisk 
and  zate — took  a  little   rest  and  again  started. 
The  Shilluh  presented  me  and  the  Spaniard,  a 
new  pair  of  Moorish  slippers  each.    The  natives 
were  mounted  and  we  were  on  foot,  running  all 
night.     As  we  were  passing  the  town  of  Akkadicu 
with  which  Wad' noon  was  still  at  war,  and  in  the 
country  oiSidi  Hcsham  the  great  bandit,  we  were 
»n  constant  apprehension  of  being  murdered  and 


ROBBIJN'S'  JOURNAL.  233 

robbed.  In  the  night,  we  passed  a  narrow  defile 
leading  through  the  Atlas  mountains,  which  of 
course,  I  cannot  describe.  We  heard  the  dis- 
tant hooting  of  the  natives  and  the  trampling  of 
horses.  We  travelled  with  the  utmost  caution. 
Frequently  we  were  passed  by  mounted  Arabs, 
and  carefully  concealed  ourselves.  I  knew  it  to 
be  the  object  of  Stdi  Hesham  to  get  into  his  pos- 
session all  the  Christian  slaves  he  possibly  could, 
in  order  to  extort  an  enormous  ransom  from  the 
Christian  powers.  I  learned  from  Mr.  Wiltshire, 
that  the  ransom  of  the  crew  of  the  British  brig 
Surprise,  which  I  have  before  mentioned  as  be- 
ing in  his  possession,  only  seventeen  in  number, 
amounted  to  five  thousand  dollars,  besides  ex- 
penses and  presents  to  a  large  amount. 

Upon  the  next  morning,  (18th)  the  Shilluh 
barely  stopped  to  sulk.  Our  course  from  Wadi- 
noon  thus  far  had  been  about  E.  N.  E.  During 
this  dav  we  bore  a  little  more  to  the  northward; 
and  at  about  10,A.M,  stopped  at  the  house  of  one 
of  the  Shilluh,  and  were  comfortably  refreshed. 
We  were  now  in  the  country  of  the  Shilluh,  a 
race  included  among  the  Berrebbers.  This  coun- 
try, from  the  best  accounts  I  could  obtain, 
extends  from  Mogadore.  south-westward  to  the 
borders  of  Sidi  Hesham's  dominions,  and  from 
the  western  coast  of  Africa  to  the  eastern  limits 
of  the  western  termination  of  the  Atlas  moun- 
tains. We  continued  to  travel  gradually  until 
2  P.  M.  when  we  came  to  a  market ;  stopped  a 
short  time ;  ate  a  few  dates,  and  proceeded  on 
our  journey,  still  passing  branches  of  the  Atlas 
mountains.   At  nearly  sun-set  we  came  into  view 

U2 


234  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL, 

of  an  extensive  level  country.  It  was  one  of  the 
grandest  views  imaginable.  Before  we  descen- 
ded, we  could  extend  the  eye  across  this  im- 
mense and  truly  delightful  country,  and  catch  a 
distant  glimpse  of  the  range  of  mountains  run- 
ning from  Santa  Cruz,  eastward,  to  the  Atlas 
mountains.  My  Shilluh  master  exclaimed,  "  Ria. 
Robbinis  !  shnfe  Santa  Cruz" — There,  Robbins  !  see 
Santa  Cruz.  I  should  degrade  my  feelings  if  I 
attempted  to  describe  them.  As  we  passed  along 
we  often  saw  clusters  of  well  built  mud  and 
stone  houses,  and  single  ones  scattered  along 
through  the  whole  country.  Extensive  barley 
fields  were  constantly  in  sight,  some  of  which 
shewed  a  gloomy  track  of  desolation  left  through 
them  by  the  recent  passage  of  a  flight  of  locusts. 
Date  trees,  fig  trees,  argan  and  olive  trees: 
prickly  pears,  &c.  were  almost  constantly  in 
sight,  although  the  date  tree  is  not  so  common 
here  as  to  the  eastward  of  the  Atlas  mountains. 
At  about  nine  in  the  evening,  we  put  up  at  the 
house  of  an  acquaintance  of  the  Shilluh.  I  found 
the  worship  precisely  the  same  as  I  had  noticed 
it,  in  every  part  of  Africa  I  had  seen. 

The  next  morning,  (3 9th)  by  2  o'clock,  we 
were  again  upon  our  journey.  The  Shilluh  ap- 
peared extremely  anxious  to  expedite  the  jour- 
ney. My  slippers  were  worn  through,  and  I  was 
most  excessively  fatigued.  But  the  thoughts  of 
travelling  toward  the  desired  regions  of  civiliza- 
tion made  me  forget  that  fatigue,  which  would 
otherwise  have  been  insupportable.  Before 
sun-rise,  after  sulk  was  performed,  the  compan- 
ions of  the  Shilluh  left  him.  The  Spaniard  and 
1  now  became  the  objects  of  his  particular  atten 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL  23£» 

tion.  We  passed  a  great  number  of  monuments, 
the  surfaces  of  which  were  composed  of  clay, 
whitewashed,  having,  at  a  little  distance,  the 
appearance  of  marble.  Some  were  in  the  shape 
of  an  obelisk,  and  others  were  carried  up  square. 
We  travelled  sol  hastily,  that  I  could  not  give 
them  a  particular  examination.  The  ShilluL 
pointed  out  one  that  was  erected  in  honour  of 
Sidi  Hamet  a  Mouesa,  whom  he  mentioned  with 
^reat  veneration.  When  passing  near  them  the 
Shilluh  would  face  them,  and  repeat  over  some 
of  the  ritual,  as  I  concluded,  not  having  yet  suf- 
ficiently learned  the  ShiUuh  language  to  under- 
stand him.  At  about  sunrise  we  came  to  a  town 
nearly  as  large  as  Wadinoon.  We  passed 
through  it,  and  near  the  gardens  which  were 
constructed  like  those  in  that  place.  I  did  not 
learn  the  name  of  the  town,  as  we  made  no  stop. 
Upon  the  east  of  the  town,  and  near  to  it,  we 
passed  a  very  considerable  stream  of  pure  wa- 
ter, running  from  the  S.  E.  and  to  the  N.  W.  and 
N.  The  gardens  were  near  its  banks,  which 
were  thickly  lined  with  date  trees ;  but  it  was 
past  their  bearing  season  at  this  place.  The 
water  was  let  into  the  gardens,  from  a  pond, 
formed  by  a  dam  across  the  stream  above  the 
town;.  This  stream  the  natives  called  El-wad 
Sihlcm.  It  was  about  six  rods  in  width,  and. 
where  we  passed  it,  so  shallow  that  we  forded 
it  on  foot.  After  passing  the  stream,  we  con- 
tinued  in  a  N.  E.  direction,  and  soon  ascended 
and  descended  a  considerable  hill,  and  came 
again  into  the  level  country  which  was  still  fer- 
tile, but  was  suffering  from  drought.  At  nine 
o'clock,  we  came  to  a  small  village,  called   by 


236  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

the  natives  Widnah,  and  stopped  for  a  short  time. 
From  this  village,  might  be  seen  many  others, 
all  of  which  appeared  to  be  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition.    This  level  country  extended  far  to  the 
N.  W.  being  bounded  upon  the  S.  E.  by  the  At- 
las   mountains,   branches   of  which   frequently 
stretched  some  distance  into  it,  leaving  vallies 
between  them.     After  breakfast,  we  joined   a 
number  of  the  inhabitants,  and  went  to  a  market, 
which  is  called  soag.     The  markets  from  Wadi- 
noon to  Santa  Cruz  are  so  arranged,  being  hol- 
den  upon  different  days  in  the  week,  that  travel- 
lers can  every  day  be  accommodated  with  an 
open  market.     The  description  of  the  markets 
and  fairs  at  Wadinoon  will,  with  little  variation, 
apply  to  all  that  are  established  through  this 
range  of  country.     One  article,  however,  which 
is  a  principal  one  at  that  place,  is  never  seen 
among  the  Shiliuh — tobacco  ;  this  being  consider- 
ed among  them  as  a  detestable  weed,  and  the 
use  of  it  as  a  transgression.     At  these  markets, 
or  soags,  I  saw  great  numbers  of  Jews,  being  the 
first  I  had  seen  since  they  were  prohibited  from 
trading  at  Wadinoon.     We  crossed  a  stream, 
more   rapid   in  its  current,  and  greater  in  its 
depth,  than  the  one  last  mentioned,  and  continu- 
ed our  course  to  the  eastward.     Before  sun-set 
we  reached  a  very  beautiful  level  country,  with 
scattered  houses  covering  a  great  extent  of  it. 
It  was  covered  with  extensive  barley  fields,  and 
the   usual  fruit   trees   common   to  the  Shiliuh 
country.     This  was  the  residence  of  my  Shiliuh 
master.     He  conducted  me,  and   my    Spanish 
companion,  to  the  mansion  of  ETajjah  Mahomet. 
who  was  called  by  the  natives,  Sharif.     Every 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  237 

object  around  us  had  the  appearance  of  wealth 
and  comfort.  We  were  shewed  into  a  very  good 
apartment,  and  a  repast  of  dried  figs  was  spread 
before  us.  EVajjah  Mahomet  informed  us,  that  he 
had  sent  the  ransom  money  to  Wadinoon  for  us, 
that  he  would,  in  the  morning,  furnish  us  with 
paper  to  write  on  to  Sweakrah  (Mogadore)  to  the 
Contz,  (consul ;)  and,  as  soon  as  we  received  an 
answer,  we  should  immediately  start  for  that 
place  :  and,  that  if  we  wished,  he  would  furnish 
us  with  mules  to  ride  upon.  For  supper,  we  had 
boiled  eggs,  khobs,  and,  for  the  first  time  in  Afri- 
ca, a  cup  of  tea. 

The  distance  from  Wadinoon  to  this  place,  to 
which  the  natives  gave  no  particular  name  that 
I  can  remember,  is  about  one  hundred  and  thir- 
ty miles,  in  the  course  we  travelled ;  the  gene- 
ral course  being  just  about  N.  E.  We  travelled 
with  great  rapidity  for  footmen,  the  Spaniard  and 
I  having  travelled  it  without  mules,  in  forty-five 
hours. 

The  next  morning,  the  20th  of  February,  1817. 
before  we  arose,  we  were  served  with  tea,  el  ham,, 
arid  keskoosoo,  in  our  apartment.  We  soon  walk- 
ed out  with  EVajjah  Mahomet  to  the  house  of  a 
Jew,  where  we  were  treated  with  carmoosc,  bran- 
dy. I  there  wrote  a  letter  for  myself  to  Mr.  Will- 
slure,  and  another  for  the  Spaniard  to  the  Span- 
ish Consul  at  Mogadore.  Our  protector  imme- 
diately despatched  an  express,  on  foot,  with  the 
letters.  Astonishing  to  relate,  he  returned  at  the 
end  of  seven  days.  The  Jews  had  here  a  small 
manufactory  for  making  knives,  scimitars,  scab- 
bards, breast-plates,  ear-rings,  and  all  the  varie- 
ty  of  trinkets   in  demand  among  the  natives. 


238  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

There  were  many  of  these  children  of  Israel  in 
this  place,  and,  as  in  all  others,  despised  and 
abused  ;  although  they  were  the  largest  dealers 
in  the  place.  We  remained  at  this  place  until 
the  16th  of  March,  and  were  uniformly  treated 
by  the  good  EVajjah  Mahomet  with  the  utmost 
kindness.  In  his  house,  was  an  apartment  set 
apart  for  worship,  and  used  for  no  other  pur- 
pose. Whenever  a  stranger  arrived  he  inquired 
for  the  :/»,  or  place  of  worship,  and  water  to 
prepare  for  the  performance  of  religious  rites 
This  was  immediately  furnished,  and  they  re 
tired  to  their  devotions.  Every  scattering  house 
has  such  a  closet  for  prayer,  but  in  villages  there 
is  a  sham  common  to  all.  El'ajjah  Mahomet  uni- 
formly expressed  the  utmost  indignation  against 
the  Wiled  D'leim,  and  spoke  in  wrath  of  Bel 
Cossim. 

I  found  the  Jews  in  this  part  of  the  country,  in 
making  their  bills  and  accounts,  make  use  of  the 
ten  digits  precisely  like  those  in  use  here.  Out 
bill  was  made  in  this  manner;  but  I  never,  at 
Wadinoon,  nor  in  any  other  place,  saw  them  used 
by  the  natives.  They  write  their  numbers  from 
right  to  left,  their  left  hand  figure  being  always 
the  unit. 

I  was  sensibly  struck  with  the  great  superiority 
of  the  Shilkih,  over  all  the  other  races  of  Maho- 
metans in  Africa.  They  were  mild  and  friendly 
in  their  dispositions,  and  seemed  to  want  nothing 
but  the  benign  influence  of  Christianity,  to  ren- 
der them  a  most  estimable  race  of  men.  They 
are  lighter  in  their  complexion  than  the  Arabs, 
and  speak  a  language  so  different,  that  they  can- 
not understand  each  other. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  239 

The  country  of  the  Shilluh  is  under  the  do- 
minion of  the  Emperor  of  Morocco.  Two  tax- 
gatherers  from  Fez,  which  also  belongs  to  the 
Emperor,  were  here,  and  spent  a  day  at  EFajjah 
Mahomet'' s  house  with  me,  and  I  conversed  with 
perfect  ease  with  them.  They  exercised  great 
authority,  and  if  the  least  hesitation  was  shewn 
in  paying  the  required  tribute,  the  Moorish  mus- 
ket and  cutlass  would  soon  enforce  it.  I  saw  a 
blanket  forced  from  a  native  who  was  either  un- 
able or  unwilling  to  pay  his  quota.  They  told 
me,  upon  inquiry,  that  the  money  was  going  to 
the  Sooltaun,  and  that  it  was  gathered  yearly. 

The  productions  of  this  delightful  country  are, 
horned  cattle,  some  sheep,  and  goats,  horses, 
asses,  mules,  and  a  few  male  camels  for  burthen. 
Grain  and  fruits  are  produced  in  abundance. 
Almonds,  honey,  peach-meats,  and  wax  are  ar- 
ticles of  trade.  Noose,  a  moss  taken  from  trees, 
is  in  great  demand  for  colouring  morocco  leather, 
and  great  quantities  of  it  are  transported  to  Mo- 
gadore.  Argan  trees  abound  every  where  in  this 
part  of  the  continent. 

I  had  not  opportunity  to  learn  particularly 
concerning  the  mines  of  different  ores  in  the  At- 
las mountains,  which  make  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  the  Shilluh  country ;  but  at  the  Jews' 
manufactory,  I  saw  a  mountaineer  offer  to  a  Jew 
a  lump  of  ore  which  he  pronounced  copper. 
The  native  who  brought  it  said  he  got  it  out  of 
a  hole  so  deep  that  the  end  could  not  be  disco- 
vered; and  that  water  was  constantly  running 
down  k)  it.  I  was  requested  to  examine  it,  as 
the  natives  suppose  every  en  sahrau  acquainted 
with  the  precious  metals.     As  I  am  ignorant  of 


240  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

mineralogy,  my  opinion  would  settle  nothing 
upon  the  question ;  but  I  took  it  to  be  copper. 
The  mountaineer  declared  it  to  be  gold.  From 
hearing  it  frequently  mentioned  at  Wadinoon. 
and  being  urged  by  Bel  Cossim  to  go  to  work 
upon  ore,  which  he  would  shew  me,  no  doubt 
remains  upon  my  mind  but  that  ore  abounds  in 
this  part  of  Africa. 

During  my  stay  in  the  Shilluh  country,  I  in- 
creased my  acquaintance  with  the  Spaniard,  and 
had  from  him,  in  the  Arabic  language,  a  history 
of  his  slavery  with  the  Arabs.  He  told  me  he 
had  been  upon  the  desert  eight  years:  that  he 
belonged  to  a  Spanish  privateer,  and  was  upon 
a  cruise  for  French  vessels  in  1809,  off  the  wes- 
tern coast  of  Africa  ;  that  the  water  of  the  ves- 
sel was  nearly  expended,  and  that  he,  and  three 
others  of  the  crew,  were  sent  ashore,  in  the  boat, 
for  water,  and  that  they  were  all  captivated  by 
the  Arabs.  He  said  he  was  among  the  blacks  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  continent,  and  was  there 
for  some  time,  upon  the  banks  of  a  river,  with 
fertile  and  cultivated  land,  having  horned  cattle 
upon  it.  He  said  he  knew  not  the  fate  of  two  of 
his  companions ;  but  one  of  them  we  found  upon 
our  arrival  at  Mogadore.  Upon  being  presented 
to  the  Spanish  Consul,  he  could  not  speak  his 
native  tongue,  and  to  me  he  always  appeared  as 
a  native  of  Africa,  and  was  often,  by  the  Arabs, 
mistaken  for  such.  His  brief  story,  related  to 
me,  induced  a  belief  in  my  mind  of  its  accuracy. 

While  we  remained  at  EVajjah  Jllahomcfs,  he 
went  to  the  governor  at  Terudant  to  obtain  a  pass- 
port for  us  to  Mogadore,  as  without  it  we  could 
not  pass  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz.    He  also  car 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  241 

pied  a  letter  from  the  governor  to  Sidi  Hesham. 
and  obtained  authority  of  some  kind  from  him 
He  informed  us,  that  all  this  was  indispensably 
necessary,  to  sec  are  a  safe  passage  to  Mogadore. 
The  messenger  sent  to  Mogadore  brought  back 
a  letter  in  Arabic,  to  our  protector,  and  a  present 
of  a  loaf  of  sugar.  He  informed  us  that  all  ne- 
cessary arrangements  were  made,  and  that  in  a 
short  time  the  preparations  of  food,  &c.  for  our 
journey  would  be  completed. 

CHAP.  XXII. 

Departure  with  EVajjah  Mahomet — El-wad  Sta — sand  hills  — 
the  ocean — Atlas  mountains — arrival  at  Santa  Cruz — descrip 
Hon  of  that  place— passage  over  a  mountain — a  contrast — ro 
mantic  view — cottage  in  a  forest — dogs — view  of  Mogadi re- 
reception  by  Mr.  Willshire — admission  into  his  house — cheer 
ing  American  flag. 

UPON  the  7th,  the  food,  consisting  oikhobs. 
butter,  and  barley  meal,  was  packed  ready  io 
transportation  ;  and,  at  one  o'clock,  A.  M.  upon 
the  8th,  the  Spaniard  and  I,  mounted  upon  one- 
mule,  and  EPojjah  Mahomet  and  a  boy  upon  an- 
other, started  upon  our  journey.  Our  hearts 
were  dilated  with  gratitude  towards  EVajjah  Ma- 
homet, and  Mr.  Willshire,  and  thankfulness  to 
heaven,  and  we  directed  our  course  N.  N.  W.  to- 
ward Santa  Cruz.  At  about  8,  A.  M.  we  forded 
the  largest  stream  I  had  yet  seen  in  Africa,  be- 
ing, I  judged,  fifteen  rods  in  width.  The  native* 
called  this  river  El-wad  Sta.  We  took  a  wind- 
ing course,  to  avoid  the  immense  sand  hillo 
which  lay  between  us  and  the  sea.  These  lay 
in  great  drifts,  like  snow  banks.     I  saw  the  up- 

X 


242  H03BINS*  JOURNAL. 

permost  boughs  of  numerous  fig-trees,  just  above 
the  sand  drifts.  This  was  about  twenty  miles 
from  the  sea.  How  long  these  sand  hills  have 
been  forming,  must  be  left  to  conjecture ;  but 
from  the  circumstance  of  seeing  the  tops  of  trees, 
a  traveller  would  be  led  to  suppose  that  they 
are  rapidly  extending  into  the  country.  After 
passing  these,  we  changed  our  course  to  the  N. 
W.  being  in  sight  of  Santa  Cruz,  and,  what  was 
to  me  the  most  animating  sight,  the  ocean.  My 
Spanish  companion  was  frantic  with  joy.  He 
leaped  up ;  threw  out  his  hands ;  exclaiming, 
"Jogal  ioga  !  via  el  Bahar,  ria  el  Bahar.  This 
was  the  first  time  I  had  seen  the  ocean  since  De- 
cember, 1815.  From  this  point  the  Atlas  moun- 
tains, lying  upon  our  right,  appeared  in  all  their 
grandeur.  Their  tops,  rising  in  succession  one 
atter  another,  were  covered  with  snow.  The 
rays  of  the  sun,  striking  upon  them,  gave  them 
the  most  brilliant  appearance.  We  reached 
Santa  Cruz  at  3,  P.  M.  The  passport  was  offer- 
ed at  the  fort — a  present  of  henneh  was  made  to 
the  commander,  and  after  this  we  were  permit- 
ted to  enter  the  lower  town.  It  is  a  town  com- 
pactly built  of  stone,  and  walled.  The  main 
street  runs  through  the  town  from  one  gate  to  the 
other.  Being  built  upon  the  side  of  a  hill,  one 
street  rises  above  another,  and  the  houses,  be- 
ing low,  the  roofs  in  the  next  street  below  the 
spectator  may  be  seen.  There  is  another  settle- 
ment called  the  upper  town,  surrounded  by  a 
v/»rv  high  wall.  The  land  upon  which  the  place 
stands  is  very  elevated,  rising,  I  should  judge,  as 
many  as  twelve  hundred  feet  above  the  level  o 
the  sea.     This  wall  has  the  appearance  of  a  for- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  243 

tress,  being  filled  with  port-holes.  The  dwell- 
ing-houses are  all  built  within  it.  I  was  inform- 
ed by  the  Moors  that  there  was  a  mine  within 
tiic  walls  of  this  place,  but  that  nobody  but  an 
en-sahrau  dare  descend  it.  From  the  lower  town-, 
the  passage  to  the  upper  one  is  by  a  winding 
road  around  the  hill,  which  is  difficult  of  ascent. 
The  prospect  from  this  place  is  extensive  and 
grand.  Situated  high  upon  the  commencement 
of  the  range  of  mountains,  extending  from  this 
place  east  to  the  Atlas  mountains,  the  spectator 
has  a  view  of  the  whole  range  and  also  of  the 
Atlas.  This  is  a  place  of  the  greatest  importance, 
it  being  the  key  to  the  dominions  of  the  emperor 
of  Morocco,  and  the  only  passage  from  the  wes- 
tern coast  of  Africa  into  that  empire,  excepting 
Terudant,  which  is  situated  about  ninety  miles  to 
the  east  of  Santa  Cruz,  which  is  called  by  the 
natives  dgadeer.  Thisplace  was  formerly  hold- 
en  by  the  Portuguese.  The  Moors  informed  me 
•hat  the  cn-sahrau  (Christians)  settled  it,  built  the 
fortress,  and  cultivated  the  adjoining  country ; 
lhat  the  Moors,  taking  advantage  of  a  long 
drought  and  distressing  famine,  besieged  fhe 
place,  and  compelled  them  to  abandon  it;  and 
♦hat  the  emperor  of  Morocco  has  ever  since  held 
possession  of  it  himself.  A  few  cannon  still  re- 
main, and  a  few  are  sufficient  to  defend  it  against 
ihe  encroachments  of  the  Arabs,  who,  notwith- 
standing their  power  upon  the  desert,  are,  from 
iheir  mode  of  warfare,  weakness  itself,  compared 
with  the  power  arising  from  modern  tactics. 
The  bay  before  the  town  is  very  open,  and  fur- 
nishes but  a  poor  harbour  for  the  protection  oi 
^hipping.     There  were  fifteen  or  twenty  open 


244  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

fishing  boats  in  the  bay,  and  I  saw  two  from 
which  the  Moors  were  landing  fish ;  but  had  no 
opportunity  to  give  them  an  examination. 

Upon  the  9th,  we  passed  the  north  gate  of  the 
town  at  sun-rise,  upon  our  journey  toward  Mo- 
gadore.  The  country  through  which  we  travel- 
led was  made  up  of  one  rocky  hill  succeeding 
another.  But  little  land  was  susceptible  of  cul- 
tivation, and  this  was  chiefly  in  the  vallies.  A 
few  houses  were  scattered  along  in  them,  and 
occasionally  a  cottage  was  seen  at  a  great  height 
upon  the  mountains  on  our  right.  We  continu- 
ed upon  the  sea  coast,  and  passed  one  conside- 
rable stream,  and  a  number  of  streamlets.  The 
passage  through  the  country,  for  it  can  hardly 
be  called  a  road,  was  almost  constantly  throng- 
ed with  loaded  camels  and  mules  from  Moga- 
dore,  transporting  iron,  grain,  haicks  and  other 
articles.  At  about  2,  P.  M.  we  came  to  a  place 
which  offered  to  the  traveller  two  different  pas- 
sages ;  the  one  near  the  sea,  the  other  over  the 
mountains  ;  the  latter  being,  as  I  was  told,  the 
shortest  course.  I  saw  numerous  loaded  camels 
coming  from  the  passage  next  to  the  sea.  This 
passage  was  described  by  El'ajiah  Mahomet  as 
the  best,  although  the  longest.  This  was  the 
passage  through  which  Capt.  Riley  and  my  ship- 
mates travelled  in  their  passage  to  Mogadore 
soon  after  we  were  captured,  and  they  were 
purchased  by  Sidi  Hamet.  Capt.  Riley  men- 
tions a  place  in  this  passage  by  the  name  of  the 
Jew's  Leap ;  but  as  I  was  conducted  through 
the  passage  over  the  mountains,  I  did  not  see. 
and  cannot  describe  it.  Our  passage  over  $he 
mountains  was  such  as  to  excite  the  fearful  ap 


KOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  246 

prehensions  of  those  who  were  about  to  attempt 
it ;  and  almost  beyond  the  power  of  description 
from  those  who  had  effected  it.  It  was  a  zig- 
zag course  up  a  mountain,  forming  an  angle  of 
ascent  of  at  least  forty-five  degrees.  This  ex- 
traordinary passage  was  made  over  an  artificial 
path  constructed  by  cutting  and  wearing  a  nar- 
row track  into  the  recks  of  the  mountain,  about 
twenty  feet,  and  the  same  distance  to  its  outer 
edge,  each  ascending  a  little.  These  tracks 
were  made  in  and  out  of  the  mountain,  until 
we  ascended  nearly  to  its  summit,  which,  from 
the  place  where  we  began  to  rise,  was  at  least 
one  thousand  feet.  We  made  this  passage  oa 
foot;  driving  the  loaded  mules  before  us.  Before 
we  reached  the  summit,  we  came  to  one  of  these 
tracks,  worn  into  the  rocks  by  travelling,  of 
about  forty  rods  in  length.  This  track  was  only 
of  sufficient  width  to  permit  the  mules  and  their 
followers  to  pass  singly.  Had  either  fallen  from 
this  contracted  path,  over  the  shelving  rocks 
composing  the  side  of  the  mountain,  immediate 
death  must  have  been  the  inevitable  consequence. 
We  then  came  to  a  long,  dark,  natural  passage 
between  two  mountains  of  as  much  as  two  miles 
in  length,  ascending  but  a  very  little.  At  the 
end  of  this  passage,  upon  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, is  a  level  country  of  about  five  miles  in 
length,  and  three  in  width ;  in  a  pretty  high 
state  of  cultivation,  with  houses  situated  thinly 
upon  every  part  of  it.  The  contrast  it  furnished 
to  the  rocky  and  almost  inaccessible  mountains 
that  lead  to  it,  is  as  great  as  nature  can  afford. 
Here  we  rested  awhile,  and  travelled  leisurely 

X  2 


246  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

over  this  piece  of  ground ;  the  inhabitants  all 
showing  to  El'ajjah  Mahomet  the  most  distin- 
guished respect.  We  then  began  to  descend  the 
mountain  upon  the  northeast  side,  which  was  al- 
so very  steep  in  places,  but  much  less  so  than 
where  we  ascended.  We  then  came  to  a  valley 
through  which  a.  stream  runs  of  considerable 
size,  and  passes  off*  upon  the  left  to  the  sea.  Af- 
ter passing  it  the  country  became  more  sandy, 
and  as  we  were  gradually  rising  we  again  had  a 
full  view  of  the  Atlantic  ocean.  At  about  sun- 
set we  put  up  at  the  house  of  an  acquaintance  of 
EPajjah  Mahomet. 

Upon  the  10th  we  continued  through  a  coun- 
try that  was  sandy,  until  towards  noon,  when  we 
entered  a  valley  lying  between  two  mountains, 
losing  sight  of  the  sea,  where  we  saw  many  beau- 
tiful gardens  constructed  similarly  to  those  at 
Wadinoon,  and  watered  by  a  small  stream  issu- 
ing out  of  the  mountains.  Our  passage,  for  seven 
or  eight  miles,  was  level,  leading  between  moun- 
tains in  a  zig-zag  course,  frequently  so  narrow 
that  but  one  could  pass  at  a  time.  It  was  the 
most  romantic  scene  that  the  mind  can  conceive. 
Our  good  protector  kept  generally  upon  his 
mule,  while  the  Spaniard  and  I  alternately  rode 
and  walked,  in  company  with  the  boy.  We  now 
travelled  through  a  country  of  hills  and  vallies. 
almost  every  where  covered  with  the  Argan 
tree,  and  loaded  with  fruit,  which  resembles  the 
damson  in  shape,  and  of  a  yellow  colour.  From 
the  meats  of  these,  oil  in  great  abundance  is 
manufactured.  About  sun-set  we  passed  the 
dry  bed  of  a  large  river,  and  came  into  a  wilder- 
ness composed  of  the  Argan  tree.     Darkness 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  247 

came  on,  and  we  gathered  a  quantity  of  wood, 
to  spend  the  night,  there  being  no  house  in 
sight.  At  length  we  heard  the  barking  oi" 
dogs,  and  descried  the  light  of  a  fire.  We  ap- 
proached, and  found  it  completely  surroun- 
ded with  a  wall  composed  of  thorn  bushes 
twenty  feet  high.  We  requested  water,  but 
could  procure  none ;  and  with  great  difficulty 
obtained  a  little  fire.  We  attempted  to  repose 
around  the  fire,  but  enjoyed  but  little  rest.  The 
dogs  within  the  wall,  with  the  highest  ferocity, 
were  constantly  gnashing  their  teeth,  and  at- 
tempting to  force  a  passage  through  the  picket 
of  thorns  to  assail  us.  This  species  of  dogs  is 
common  in  every  part  of  Africa  that  I  had  seen, 
and  are  the  most  ferocious  of  the  whole  canine 
race.  I  have  often  seen  them  tear  and  lacerate 
the  blacks  in  the  most  terrible  manner.  Almost 
every  native  has  more  or  less  of  them  with  him. 
whether  travelling  or  at  rest. 

The  next  morning,  at  an  early  hour,  we  start- 
ed upon  the  last  day's  journey  to  Mogadore. 
We  passed  in  the  fore  part  of  the  day  through  a 
forest  of  Aroan  trees.  For  the  whole  distance 
from  Santa  Cruz  to  Mogadore,  the  traveller  is 
accommodated  with  water  secured  in  cisterns. 
These  are  built  with  great  care  and  much  labor. 
Some  of  them  are  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  eight 
or  ten  in  width.  They  are  sunk  into  the  earth 
from  five  to  eight  feet,  and  stoned  and  plaister- 
ed  within;  over  them,  rising  about  five  feet 
above  the  surface,  is  built  a  flat  roof,  made  of 
poles,  reeds,  and  mud,  and  smoothly  plaistered. 
The  entrance  is  at  one  end  down  a  flight  of 
stairs  leading  to  the  water.     Upon  the  roofs  are 


248  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

often  seen  travellers  refreshing  themselves  with 
food,  and  partaking  of  the  fine  water  contained 
within.  The  water  is  conducted  into  them  by 
little  channels  cut  into  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
After  refreshing  ourselves  at  one  of  these  fine 
reservoirs,  we  came  into  a  plain  sandy  country. 
Upon  rising  a  small  sand  hill  we  again  had  a  view 
of  the  Atlantic — of  an  island  which  forms  the 
harbor  of  Mogadore,  and  of  a  ship  and  a  brig. 
This  was  the  first  shipping  I  had  beheld  since  we 
left  the  wreck  of  the  Commerce  at  Cape  Baja- 
dor,  nearly  nineteen  months  before.  The  joy  oi 
my  Spanish  companion  almost  produced  deliri- 
um. We  soon  came  in  sight  of  Sweahrah,  the 
longed-for  Mogadore,  situated  very  low  upon 
the  borders  of  the  ocean,  and,  it  being  high  tide, 
appearing  to  be  almost  surrounded  with  water. 
We  continued  to  travel  near  the  beach,  and  ha- 
ving upon  our  left  a  block  of  buildings  enclosed 
within  a  wall  of  stone,  plaistered,  presenting  a 
front  of  at  least  two  hundred  feet  in  length. 
Above  this  wall,  I  discovered  four  distinct  roofs 
covered  with  green  tile,  coming  to  a  point  in  the 
centre.  El'ajjah  Mahomet  informed  me  that  it 
belonged  to  Moolay  Solimaan,  emperor  of  Moroc- 
co. Near  to  this  was  situated  a  small  fort.  The 
town  is  nearly  three  miles  distance  from  this 
place.  Continuing  on,  we  passed  a  rapid  river. 
Ly  fording.  Our  protector  now  dressed  himself 
in  elegant  Moorish  stile ;  and  as  we  followed 
him,  we  passed  a  number  of  buildings  or  monu- 
ments, erected  in  honour  of  some  Mahommedan 
saints  as  I  concluded,  for  we  were  directed  to 
dismount  our  mules,  dismiss  our  slippers,  and 
walk  by  barefooted.     We  approached  the  walls 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  249 

of  the  town  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  south 
gate,  and  stopped.  EVajjah  Mahomet  left  us  and 
entered  the  town.  I  very  soon  saw  a  gentleman 
of  elegant  appearance  approaching  rapidly  to- 
ward us.  He  came  directly  up  to  me,  and  with 
the  benignity  of  benevolence  illuminating  his 
countenance,  called  me  familiarly  by  name, 
shook  me  cordially  by  the  hand,  and  requested 
me  to  mount  the  mule  and  ride  into  town.  Up- 
on saying  I  could  as  well  walk,  he  said,  "  Yov 
must  be  fatigued — I  insist  upon  your  riding  ;" — I  en- 
tered the  town  with  him,  and  my  Spanish  com- 
panion, whom  he  conducted  to  the  Spanish  Con- 
sul's, taking  me  with  him  to  his  own  house, 
where  1  was  immediately  supplied  with  the 
best  refreshments.  It  will  be  recollected  that 
the  Shilluh  declined  to  purchase  Brown  and 
Davis  at  Wadinoon,  but  to  my  surprise  and  to 
my  joy,  I  found  them  at  Mi.  Willshire's  house, 
having  arrived  there  tour  days  before.  The 
American  flag  was  immediately  hoisted  upon  the 
top  of  the  house,  and  I,  together  with  Brown  and 
Davis,  were  directed  to  give  three  cheers.  When 
I  arrived,  I  was  clad  in  an  old  woollen  frock 
shirt,  as  my  whole  apparel;  my  hair  had  grown 
at  random  in  every  direction  ;  and  my  beard  pre- 
sented one  evidence  of  a  Mahometan.  A  Jewish 
barber  was  immediately  ordered,  and  gave  to 
my  hair  and  beard  a  more  Christian  appearance. 
Clothing  was  as  soon  as  possible  furnished  by 
Mr.  Willshire,  and  I  began  to  think  1  should  in 
time  regain  my  native  tongue,  my  American  ha- 
bits, and  my  native  country.  For  nearly  two 
years  I  had  spoken  the  Arabic  tongue,  and  felt 


250  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

myself  excessively  mortified  to  find  I  conversed 
so  imperfectly  in  the  English  language. 

CHAP.  XXIII. 

fliaracter  of  Mr.  Wiltshire — description  of  Mogadore — the 
Jews — markets — manufactures— public  buildings — mode  of 
worship — manners  of  the  people — population — harbor — ship- 
wrecks— letter  from  the  Hon.  James  Simpson. 

MR.  WILLSHIRE,  under  whose  protection  I 
was  now  placed,  and  to  whom  I  shall,  till  death, 
feel  under  the  deepest  obligations  that  gratitude 
can  dictate,  is  a  native  of  the  city  of  London  ; 
of  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  of  the  most 
elegant  person,  and  of  the  most  accomplished 
manners.  He  has  resided  at  Mogadore  a  number 
of  years,  and  has  at  that  place  a  large  mercantile 
establishment.  He  has  had  for  a  considerable 
time,  vessels  under  the  American  and  English 
colors.  I  supposed  him  to  be  very  wealthy,  from 
the  number  of  stewards,  clerks,  and  assistants, 
in  his  employ.  He  invariably  had  religious  ser- 
vice performed  at  his  splendid  mansion  upon  the 
•Sabbath,  at  which  English  gentlemen  and  ladies, 
sea-captains,  and  oilier  foreigners  attended.  He 
performed  service  himself  in  the  Episcopalian 
mode,  with  the  most  solemn  devotion,  and  his 
bouse  appeared  to  me  to,  be  a  real  Bethel ;  and 
so  far  as  art  imperfect  man  can  judge  of  the  heart, 
I  should  think  his  a  fit  abode  for  the  .Holy  Spirit. 
It  must  be  left  for  the  future  biographer  to  erect 
a  monument  to  his  virtues  ;  but  I  must  not,  I  can- 
not omit  to  inform  my  renders  tiiat  to  this  modern 
Howard,  this  divine  philanthropist,  our  unfortu- 
nate countrymen  are  indebted  for  their  redemp- 


BOBBINS'  JOURNAL.  251 

tion  from  the  most  miserable  bondage  that  the 
miserable  sons  of  Adam  ever  endured.  To  know 
the  manner  in  which  he  expends  much  of  his 
immense  income,  would  be  to  learn,  that  with 
him  wealth  is  devoted  to  the  noblest  of  all  pur- 
poses, diminishing  human  woe,  and  augmenting 
human  happiness.  He  has,  by  his  munificence, 
secured  the  favor,  even  of  Mahommcdans,  with 
all  their  antipathy  against  Christians.  Scarcely 
is  there  a  Moor  or  an  Arab  through  the  whole 
of  Sa.se  and  the  Great  Western  Desert,  who  is  of 
any  consequence,  but  he  has  engaged  to  assist 
him  in  his  benevolence.  No  sooner  does  he 
learn  of  a  Christian  slave  of  any  country,  than  he 
despatches  a  Moor,  a  Shilluh,  or  an  Arab  to 
bring  the  wretched  creature  to  taste  the  fruits 
of  his  ransoming  benevolence.  The  paper  I 
mentioned  at  Wadinoon  was  written  by  this  mi- 
nistering angel  of  mercy. 

The  town  of  Mogadore  is  situated  upon  the 
Western  coast  of  Africa,  and,  from  the  most  ap- 
proved charts,  in  31°  15/  N.  Latitude,  and  9° 
W.  Longitude.  It  is,  in  every  point  of  view,  the 
most  important  place  in  the  empire  of  Morocco. 
It  stands  upon  a  peninsula,  projecting  into  the 
Atlantic  ocean,  and  its  waters  wash  its  north 
and  west  sides ;  and,  at  high  tide,  nearly  make 
it  an  island.  A  high  wall,  composed  of  stone 
and  mortar,  is  built  near  the  borders  of  the  pe- 
ninsula, and  within  it  is  situated  the  town  in 
three  distinct  sections,  separated  from  each 
other  by  inner  walls.  The  Moors  occupy  the 
main  section  upon  the  east ;  and  the  few  Chris- 
tian merchants  the  western  one,  containing  the 
fortress,  together  with  some  natives ;  and  the 


252  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

Jews  the  north  section  exclusively.    It  is  strong 
\y  fortified,  having  double  walls  upon  the  south 
and  east  sides,  from  which  points  it  is  approach- 
ed from  the  country.     It  is  in  shape  a  paralell- 
ogram,   and  strongly  fortified  at  each  corner, 
especially  at  the  northeast  and  southeast,  by 
heavy  mounted  brass  and  iron  cannon.     Upon 
the  water  port,  at  the  west  side,  is  a  battery  of 
cannon  containing  between  forty  and  fifty  heavy 
brass  pieces.     There  is  but  one  entry  into  that 
section  of  the  town  occupied  by  the  Jews,  and 
this  gate  is  constantly  guarded  by   an  armed 
Moor.     At  night  it  is  always  locked,  cutting  oft 
the  despised  sons  of  Jacob   from   intercourse 
with  any  part  of  mankind.     Even  in  the  day- 
time, intercourse  with  them  is  almost  prohibited. 
During  my  residence,  I  went  into  this  part  of  the 
town  with  an  English  seaman,  formerly  of  the 
wrecked  brig  Surprise,  and  was   immediately 
taken  before  an  Alcayd,  or  officer,  and  compel- 
led to  apologize  for  this  intrusion.    Upon  learn- 
ing that  I  was  from  Wadinoon,  I  was  afterwards 
permitted  to  visit  the  Jews.     They  have  a  num- 
ber of  synagogues,  as  places  of  worship.     Upon 
Friday  afternoon,  at  six  o'clock,  their  Sabbath 
commences,  and  ends  at  the  same  time  upon 
Saturday  afternoon.    During  this  time,  they  nei- 
ther light  a  candle  or  lamp,  make  a  fire,  cook, 
nor  touch  their  hands  to  any  laborious  service. 
Their  food  is  previously  cooked.     I  never  saw 
them  worship  in  their  synagogues,  which  I  ex- 
ceedingly regret.     The  Jews  are  permitted  to 
have  open  shops  in  every  part  of  the  town,  until 
eight  o'clock,  P.  M.  after  which  time  every  Jew, 
excepting  those  at  Mr.  Wiltshire's  and  a  few 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  25 

others,  were  enclosed  within  the  walls  of  their 
town,  until  day-light  the  next  morning.  The;, 
are  compelled  to  wear  black  slippers  and  caps, 
and  not  allowed  to  dress  their  heads  in  red,  or 
feet  in  yellow. 

The  general  market  is  situated  in  the  main 
town.  It  is  well  supplied  with  beef,  mutton, 
fowls,  bread,  and  almost  every  variety  of  vege- 
tables. The  grain  market  is  inclosed  on  a  square 
through  which  a  narrow  street  passes.  Upon 
the  borders  of  this  square,  are  great  numbers  of 
very  small  shops  owned  by  Moors  and  Jews,  sup- 
plied with  every  article  which  fancy  would  ad- 
mire, convenience  desire,  or  necessity  crave. 

There  are  a  number  of  manufactories  for 
haicks  or  blankets.  The  loom  and  shuttle  ap- 
peared to  be  similar  to  our  domestic  ones.  By 
a  decree,  the  blankets  here  manufactured  are 
prohibited  from  exportation,  and  are  reserved 
for  transportation  into  the  deserts.  These  are 
made  wholly  of  wool.  There  are  also  manufac- 
tories for  iron  tools,  of  every  necessary  kind ;  and 
although  they  do  not  look  like  those  of  Sheffield 
and  Birmingham  ware,  many  of  them  are  well 
made.  The  Jews  manufacture  snuff  by  pulveri- 
zing tobacco  in  large  mortars.  The  grain  is 
manufactured  into  flour  by  horses.  A  sweep 
is  attached  to  the  main  wheel  of  the  mill.  Which 
being  connected  with  a  number  of  cog-wheels, 
gives  the  stone  a  velocity  nearly  equal  to  some 
of  our  mill-stones  carried  by  water. 

The  streets  of  this  town  are  straight,  although 
short,  intersecting  each  other,  generally,  at  right 
angles.     In  the  main  town,  are  streets  running 
Y 


254  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

through  the  whole  of  it.  They  are  narrow,  and 
over  some  of  them  in  the  fortress  section,  an  arch 
extends  from  one  side  of  the  street  to  the  other. 
The  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  lime,  general- 
ly of  one,  although  some  are  two  and  three  sto- 
ries high.  The  roofs  are  mostly  flat.  The 
streets  have  a  handsome  appearance  in  passing 
them,  the  houses  being  generally  plaistered  or 
whitewashed. 

The  public  buildings  are  those  devoted  to  pi- 
ous uses,  having  a  steeple,  or  tower  running  to  a 
considerable  height,  and  built  square  to  the  top. 
From  the  top,  projects  a  crane,  upon  which  it- 
hung  a  white  flag  to  summon  the  people  togeth- 
er. In  addition  to  this  notice,  a  Moor  ascends 
to  the  top,  and  with  a  loud  voice,  exhorts  the  in- 
habitants to  come  and  worship,  by  exclaiming — 
*  Allah  Ha  !"'*  Upon  this  notice,  many  of  the 
people  are  seen  to  leave  their  temporal  concerns, 
and  repair  to  their  temple  to  attend  to  devotion- 
al exercises.  This  is  repeated  four  times  a  day 
at  regular  seasons.  It  is  singular,  that  the  mode 
of  worship,  where  I  witnessed  it  here,  was  pre- 
cisely the  same  as  I  had.  thousands  of  times,  no- 
ticed it  upon  the  Zahara  desert,  at  Wadinoon. 
and  in  various  other  parts  of  Africa.  If  the  Ma- 
hommedans  can  claim  no  other  merit,  they  an 
at  least  entitled  to  the  character  of  consistency 
and  uniformity  in  their  religious  ceremonies. 

The  people  of  Mogadore  appeared  to  be  mild, 
peaceable,  and  affable  in  their  manners.  Being 
a  Christian,  it  was  not  safe  for  me  to  venture  to 
go  often  abroad,  around  the  town,  for  fear  of  in- 

*  See  Lord  Byron's  Giaour — line  734. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  256 

suits  or  injury ;  and  I  kept  generally  at  Mr.  Will- 
shire's  ;  altnough,  in  the  day-time,  I  frequently 
walked  about  the  place.  I  never  saw  nor  heard 
the  least  disturbance  ;  witnessed  no  mobs  or  ri- 
ots, and  the  town  appeared  to  be  a  place  where 
the  operation  of  a  good  police  was  known  and 
obeyed. 

This  town,  in  its  greatest  length,  must  be  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  and  in  breadth,  over  half  a 
mile.  It  is  very  compactly  built,  and  from  the 
best  accounts  I  could  obtain,  has  within  it,  ol 
different  nations,  thirty  thousand  inhabitants.  Of 
this  population,  the  principal  part  are  Moors ; 
the  Jews  are  estimated  at  about  six  thousand, 
and  the  Christians,  while  I  was  there,  could  not 
have  exceeded  fifty.  The  town  is  supplied  with 
water  from  the  river  running  two  miles  to  the 
southward  of  it.  It  is  transported  in  kegs  load- 
ed upon  asses;  and  the  beach  from  the  town  to 
the  river  is  constantly  lined  with  these  animals 
passing  from  and  to  the  town.  An  island  is  situ- 
ated about  two  miles  from  the  shore,  and  forms 
the  harbor.  Upon  it  is  a  strong  fortification; 
and  foreigners  are  not  permitted  to  land  upon  it. 

The  entry  into  the  harbor  is  upon  the  north  of 
this  island  through  a  narrow  rocky  channel.  In 
the  winter,  the  harbor  is  rendered  insecure  from 
the  stroHg  southwest  wind  blowing  directly  into 
it,  and  the  bottom  being  sandy,  the  anchorage  is 
bad.  From  information  derived  from  Mr.  Will- 
shire,  I  learned  that  many  shipwrecks  have  here 
happened.  The  wreck  of  an  English  brig  was 
lying  there  while  I  was  in  the  place.  Capt.  Wm. 
Rogers  of  Cape  Ann,  with  whom  I  returned  to 


i56  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

America,  gave  me  a  most  interesting  account  of 
i  he  loss  of  a  part  of  his  crew  in  this  harbor,  I 
think  in  the  winter  of  1815.  The  limits  of  this 
work  preclude  the  insertion  of  the  melancholy 
narrative,  any  farther  than  to  say,  that  his  schoo- 
ner parted  one  of  her  cables — that  he  and  two  of 
his  crew  went  on  board  an  English  vessel  to  re- 
place it;  and  while  absent,  the  remaining  crew 
abandoned  the  schooner,  entered  the  boat,  and 
were  dashed  into  eternity  upon  the  shore.  The 
-chooner  was  saved,  and  trie  captain  obtained  a 
crew  of  Moors  and  Jews  to  navigate  her  to  Bos- 
ton. I  afterwards  saw  and  conversed  with  a  Jew 
who  was  one  of  the  crew,  at  Mogadore.  Mr.  Will 
shire  informed  me  that  a  few  years  since,  a  Spa- 
nish vessel  entered  this  harbor  with  a  large  crew. 
without  a  cargo;  and  not  being  permitted  to 
trade  from  that  circumstance,  having  nothing 
but  specie,  she  sailed  down  the  coast  to  fish,  be- 
tween Cape  Non  and  Santa  Cruz,  was  taken  by 
.,-^,.;Cr,    hv  the  natives,  and  her  whole  crew 

massacred. 

I  might  enrich  this  journal  with  many  more  in- 
teresting communications  from  this  intelligent 
gentleman,  but  they  must  be  omitted.  I  resided 
with  him  from  the  11th  to  the  22d  March,  and 
shall  for  ever  reckon  the  days  spent  under  his 
hospitable  roof,  as  the  most  pleasing  of  my  life. 
Every  thing  within  the  compass  of  human  exer- 
tion was  done  to  render  my  stay  delightful.  He 
had  snatched  me  and  my  companions  from  the 
most  forlorn  and  miserable  slavery,  placed  me 
in  a  temporal  paradise,  and  pointed  the  way  to 
my  country  and  my  friends.     I  cannot  imagine 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  257 

a  situation  upon  earth,  all  things  considered, 
more  enviable  than  the  one  he  fills.  I  forgot  the 
splendor  of  his  mansion,  and  the  magnificence 
(hat  surrounded  him,  in  the  more  brilliant  traits 
of  his  mind.  A  good  description  of  his  dwelling 
wotted  be  the  history  of  architecture.  Upon  the 
15th,  he  informed  me  that  he  had  received  a  let- 
ter from  the  Hon.  James  Simpson,  American  Con- 
sul General  at  Tangier,  relative  to  our  passage 
home,  requesting  him,  as  soon  as  we  were  suffi- 
ciently recruited  for  the  journey,  to  send  us  to 
Tangier,  if  no  passage  to  America  could  be 
found  at  Mogadore.  He  assured  us  that  in  a  few 
days  every  thing  should  be  in  readiness  for  the 
journey,  that  he  would  despatch  an  alcayd,  or  an 
Emperor's  soldier,  to  guard  us  on  the  way,  and 
that  he  had  obtained  a  passport  from  the  Empe- 
ror for  this  purpose. 

CHAP.  XXIV. 

The  author,  Davis,  and  Brozvn  leave  Mogadore  for  Tangier— 
the  country — Azamor — river  Oimnirabih — Douar  of  tents — 
fearful  apprehensions — equestrian  exercise — escape  by  night 
— aqueduct — arrival  at  Rabat. 

UPON  the  22d,  the  alcayd  and  two  muleteers 
presented  themselves  to  Mr. Wiltshire,  with  three 
large  mules ;  one  each,  for  Brown,  Davis,  and 
myself.  The  alcayd  was  elegantly  armed  and 
mounted  upon  a  horse,  and  the  muleteers  were 
to  go  on  foot.  We  were  well  supplied  with  pro- 
visions for  five  days,  which  would  carry  us  to 
the  town  of  Azamor.  We  also  had  a  sufficient 
supply  of  money  for  our  expenses.  We  now  took 
Y2 


258  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

an  affectionate  leave  of  Mr.  Willshire,  received 
his  blessing  and  good  wishes,  and  started  upon 
our  journey.  We  passed  the  south  gate  at  8, 
A.  M,  passed  the  east  battery,  and  directed  our 
course  toward  Tangier.  We  kept  the  coast  for 
some  distance,  and  wei»e  joined  by  another  al- 
eayd,  with  a  servant  bound  to  Fez.  He  contin- 
ued with  us  for  ten  days,  and  added  much  to  the 
pleasure  of  our  journey.  We  travelled  mode- 
rately, and  the  muleteers  kept  up  on  foot.  The 
cquntry  through  which  we  passed  upon  the  first 
day  yrai  rather  barren  and  thinly  inhabited.  We 
stopped  tor  the  night  at  sun  an  hour  high,  and 
lodged  under  bushes:  the  cattle  being  fettered. 
There  were  a  few  inhabitants  near  us,  who 
brought  us  fowls,  eggs,  and  keskoosoo,  and  refu- 
sed anv  compensation  for  them.  Before  day- 
light, upon  the  23d,  we  were  again  mounted  and 
on  our  journey".  The  alcayd  who  conducted 
me  was  the  same  one,  he  told  me,  who  was  the 
guide  of  Capt.  Riley,  and  pointed  to  a  path  which 
he  then  travelled  ;  but  now  chose  one  that  went 
farther  into  the  country.  We  travelled  over  land 
very  level,  highly  cultivated,  loaded  with  grain, 
and  often  presenting  douars  of  pitched  tents. 
Through  the  24th,  the  country  had  the  same 
appearance,  and  at  night  we  lodged  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a  large  collection  of  tents.  Wherever  a 
douar  of  tents  is  met  with,  one  is  found  devoted 
to  pious  uses,  called  a  zhunu  facing  to  the  east. 
The  traveller  always  goes  there  to  worship  and 
to  lodge;  aud  is  always  there  treated  with  kind- 
ness and  respect.  The  alcayd  who  guided  and 
guarded  nsi  and  the  one  who  joined  us,  would 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  259 

be  regarded,  in  every  portion  of  the  globe,  as 
first  rate  men.  They  were  dignified  in  their 
manners,  affable  in  their  deportment,  and  affec- 
iionate  in  their  treatment.  No  pains  were  spa- 
red  to  make  us  comfortable,  and  our  journey 
pleasant.  We  were  not,  however,  permitted  to 
lodge  in  the  tents,  devoted  to  the  worship  of 
Mahomet,  being  nothing  but  Christians  ourselves. 
The  next  day  (25th)  we  came  in  sight  of  the  At- 
lantic, and  stopped  to  feed  the  cattle  near  a 
walled  town,  which  the  alcayd  entered.  After 
resting  a  short  time,  we  prosecuted  our  journey, 
passing  stone  buildings  standing  singly,  some 
villages,  a  considerable  river,  the  country 
abounding  with  Argari  trees,  and  at  10,  P.  M. 
put  up  near  a  walled  town,  the  gates  of  which 
were  closed.  The  inhabitants  came  out  and 
sold  us  fowls  and  eggs,  and  we  slept  without  the 
mud  walls,  in  the  blankets  furnished  us  by  Mr. 
Wiltshire.  Upon  the  26th,  we  passed  a  country 
more  hilly,  and,  at  2,  P.  M.  reached  the  town  of 
Azamor,  having  passed  a  great  number  of  saint- 
houses.  We  always  had  to  dismount  and  pass 
them  on  foot,  while  our  devotional  guard  offer- 
ed up  worship  to  that  prophet,  whose  followers 
never  seem  to  forget  his  supposed  divinity,  or 
omit  to  adore  him.  The  town  is  situated  upon 
the  west  side  of  the  river  Ommirabih,  upon  ele- 
vated ground.  The  town  in  shape  neailv  re- 
sembles a  right  angled  triangle.  The  river  forms 
the  base,  the  ocean  the  side,  and  the  country  the 
hypothenuse.  It  is  chiefly  built  of  stone,  and 
completely  walled  with  a  very  high  plaistered 
stone  wall.     Around  its  southeast  corner  or  tor 


260  RObBINS'  JOURNAL, 

tress,  it  is  ditched ;  and  from  the  ditch  to  the 
battery,  is  thrown  up  a  body  of  earth  and  stone, 
ascending  as  steep  as  the  roof  of  a  house.  The 
battery,  rising  thirty  feet  above  the  top  of  this 
ascent,  would  seem  to  render  it  impregnable. 
Upon  the  battery  are  mounted  forty  or  fifty  iron 
and  brass  pieces  of  cannon.  The  town  has  the 
appearance  of  antiquity.  In  its  suburbs,  which 
we  passed,  are  various  manufactories  of  leather, 
pottery,  &c. 

We  here  replenished  our  stock  of  provisions, 
and  upon  the  morning  of  the  27th,  as  soon  as  the 
gates  were  opened,  we  again  started  upon  our 
journey,  and  passed  the  river  Ommirabih  in 
a  ferry  boat.  We  saw  great  numbers  of  fishing 
boats,  and  upon  examining  the  fish  taken,  I  found 
them  to  be  shad;  precisely  like  those  caught  in 
Connecticut  river,  and  they  made  me  think  of 
that  beautiful  stream,  upon  the  banks  of  which  1 
was  born.  This  river  must  be  thirty-five  rods  in 
width.  It  is  a  clear,  handsome  stream,  and  the 
largest  I  had  passed  in  Africa,  although  upon  the 
desert  of  Zahara  I  had  passed  many  dry  beds  oi 
rivers  much  wider.  The  country  here  was  not 
very  fertile,  but  in  the  course  of  the  day  we  pass 
ed  many  douars  of  tents,  and  at  night  put  up  at 
a  large  one  situated  two  miles  out  of  our  regular 
course.  A  douar  of  tents  consists  of  different 
numbers  and  arranged  in  different  manners — 
some  in  a  square,  some  in  a  triangle,  and  the  one 
we  reached  this  night  was  in  a  perfect  circle, 
pitched  within  ten  feet  of  each  other.  As  I  ap- 
proached with  Brown  and  Davis  on  foot,  we  vvere 
assailed  by  hundreds  of  dogs,  and  it  was  with  the 


ROBBINS'  JOURNA&  261 

greatest  difficulty  we  could  defend  ourselves  from 
them  with  heavy  clubs.  We  entered  the  douar 
before  night,  and  a  small  tent  was  pitched  for  the 
two  alcayds,  for  us,  two  Moors  who  had  joined 
us  at  Azamor  and  the  muleteers,  in  the  centre  of 
the  circle.  The  two  alcayds  were  in  the  tent, 
the  muleteers  had  gone  to  water  the  mules,  and 
the  rest  of  us  were  reposing  around  the  tent.  It 
was  immediately  surrounded  by  natives  led  by 
curiosity  to  see  Christians,  who  inquired  of  the 
alcayds  where  we  were  from  and  where  bound. 
Upon  being  informed  that  we  were  from  the  De- 
sert, and  bound  to  the  Sidi  or  Emperor,  and  dis- 
covering us  to  be  Americans  or  Englishmen,  they 
immediately  entered  into  conversation  among 
themselves,  which  the  alcayd  from  Fez  learned 
to  be  a  menace  toward  us.  They  remembered 
the  lesson  not  long  before  taught  the  Algerines 
by  Commodore  Decatur  and  Lord  ExiviouTH,and 
undoubtedly  would  seek  revenge  in  anv  wav- 

The  bW>*   <•—  ^—   -  •"     «  .     ,  -       7/ 
j~  Axouixe/5,  wan  iury  mingled  with 

dignity,  said  that  the  Emperor  had  sent  for  us, 
and  demanded  of  them  what  they  meant  by  their 
plots?  They  explained  by  denying  any  plottings, 
and  soon  retired.  I  never  saw  the  authority  of 
an  individual  so  suddenly  operate  upon  a  multi- 
tude. Very  soon  we  saw  twenty  or  thirty  arm- 
ed horsemen  approaching  us  with  great  speed. 
They  halted  near  our  tent.  I  expected  my  jour- 
ney to  Tangier  and  for  life  was  now  to  be  end- 
ed. Each  Moor  had  a  musket,  and  they  were 
but  a  rod  or  two  from  the  tent.  The  alcayds  re- 
mained perfectly  composed,  and  my  fears  were 
dismissed,  when  I  saw  these  inimitable  horse- 


2G2,  R0BB1NS'  JOURNAL.  T 

men  begin  their  Moorish  sports.  They  exclaim, 
hah  !  hah  !  hah  ! — drop  the  rein  upon  the  horses' 
neck — incline  the  body  far  forward — put  the 
horse  into  full  speed,  and  aiming  at  some  distant 
object,  fire  their  muskets,  and  with  one  hand 
give  it  a  sudden  turn  around  the  head.  The 
horse,  being  perfectly  trained,  comes  to  a  halt 
as  soon  as  the  gun  is  fired.  It  was  in  my  view  the 
most  elegant  display  of  the  equestrian  art  I  ever 
witnessed.  The  feats  of  the  circus  are  but  pu- 
erile triflings  in  comparison  with  it.  For  an  hour 
I  witnessed  this  amusement.  It  called  to  mind 
the  tournaments  in  the  age  of  chivalry.  After 
they  retired,  we  were  refreshed ;  and  when  si- 
lence reigned  through  the  whole  circle  of  tents, 
at  least  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  darkness 
had  shrouded  the  earth  with  her  sable  mantle, 
we  cautiously  began  to  leave  a  place  where  de- 
struction might,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  have 
awaited  us ;  and  where  the  alcayds,  ourselves, 
and  the  muleteers,  might  have  sunk  into  the 
grave,  leaving  the  Emperor  in  ignorance  of  the 
fate  of  his  officers,  and  our  friends  of  our  desti- 
ny. For  five  hours  we  sought  in  vain  for  the 
path  we  took  that  lead  us  to  this  douar.  and  up- 
on finding  it,  we  travelled  with  as  great  speed 
as  possible,  taking  the  muleteers  behind  us. 
This  was  the  dictate  of  compassion,  but  as  often 
as  we  did  it,  our  alcayd  would  remonstrate 
against  it ;  and  I  had  occasion  myself  to  regret 
it ;  for  the  old  muleteer  belonging  to  me,  while 
I  was  relieving  him  from  the  fatigue  of  running, 
came  very  nigh  relieving  my  pockets  of  all  the 
money  belonging  to  Brown,  Davis,  and  myself. 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL,.  263 

Through  the  28th,  we  travelled  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  ocean,  and  at  10,  A.  M.  passed 
the  town  of  Darlbeda  situated  upon  it.  It  appear- 
ed of  considerable  size,  and  was  walled ;  but  we 
did  not  enter  it.  At  meridian,  we  passed  the 
town  of  Afidallah.  Toward  night,  we  passed  a 
well  built  stone  bridge,  arched,  and  railed  with 
stone.  Continuing  on,  we  forded  a  small  stream, 
and  came  to  a  forest  of  Argan  trees.  We  lodg- 
ed upon  the  outside  of  the  walls  of  a  town  of 
some  size.  It  was  dark  when  we  reached,  and 
dark  when  we  left  it ;  and  unless  we  possessed 
those  "  optics  keen,  to  see  what  is  not  to  be  seen"  we 
could  not  describe  it. 

Upon  the  29th,  continuing  near  the  ocean,  we 
had  a  distant  view  of  the  town  of  Rabat ;  the 
country  being  remarkably  level,  fertile,  and  well 
cultivated.  The  inhabitants  all  lived  in  tents 
here,  and  the  fields  abounded  with  immense 
droves  of  horned  cattle.  Large  numbers  of  fat- 
tened oxen  were  driving  toward  Rabat.  It  was 
a  most  delightful  day's  journey,  and  the  animal 
and  vegetable  productions  of  the  country  indica- 
ted the  highest  enjoyment.  We  reached  the 
aqueduct,  which  conducts  water  into  the  town, 
at  about  a  mile's  distance  fro»n  the  walls  of  it. 
This  aqueduct  is  so  constructed  that,  for  the 
most  of  the  way,  the  water  is  carried  above  the 
ground,  in  a  kind  of  flume.  The  fountain  that 
supplies  it  is  eight  miles  from  the  town  ;  and  at 
that  place  is  an  high  tower.  When  we  came  to 
the  aqueduct,  we  stopped,  and  the  alcayds  en- 
tered the  town,  having  with  them  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Willshire  to  Mr.  Mouderham.  English  Vice 


264  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

Consul  at  Rabat.  The  mules,  having  fed  upon 
grass,  we  mounted  them,  and  entered  the  town 
ourselves,  and  were  immediately  introduced  to 
the  consul  by  our  alcayd.  He  informed  us,  that 
Mr.  Wiltshire  had  requested  him  to  furnish  us 
with  every  thing  that  we  wanted  to  prosecute 
our  journey.  I  informed  him  that  we  were  suf- 
ficiently supplied  with  money,  but  wished,  in  that 
town,  to  replenish  our  stock  of  provisions,  which 
were  nowT  nearly  exhausted.  Brown,  Davis,  and 
I  dined  at  his  house,  but  he  said,  as  it  was  the 
Jewish  Sabbath,  no  business  could  that  day  be 
transacted.  I  understood  he  was  a  Jew  himself, 
but  he  was  dressed  in  Christian  habit.  After 
partaking  of  refreshments  we  were  conducted. 
by  our  alcayd.  to  a  public  house,  where  a  room 
was  provided  for  our  accommodation.  This  was 
the  first  building  that  might  be  called  a  public 
house,  that  I  had  seen  in  Africa.  This  being  a 
place  of  great  business,  the  house  having  many 
apartments,  was  resorted  to  by  travellers  from 
Fez,  Morocco,  and  all  the  adjoining  country. 

CHAP.  XXV. 

Rabat,  description  of  it— the  harbor— shad— Mr.  Abouderham— 
Jewish  feast— Sallee — a  Lak*— river  Saboo— scenery — Rock  oj 
Gibraltar,  and  Mount  Atlas — arrival  at  Tangier— refections 
— the  Hon.  James  Simpson— -Mount  Washington,  in  Africa — 
passage  to  Gibraltar— Mr.  Henry,  consrd—Mr.  Simpson's 
letter. 

AFTER  securing  our  baggage  in  our  apart- 
ment, I  went  out  to  examine  the  town.  It  has 
one  principal  street  running  parallel  with  the 
shore  of  the  river  Beregrcb,  which  bounds  it  up- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  2(3.V 

on  the  north.  Upon  the  west,  it  is  bounded  by 
the  Atlantic,  and  upon  the  south  and  east  it  is 
bounded  by  an  outer  wall  which  is  built  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  inner  wall,  upon  which  can 
non  are  mounted.  Between  these  two  walls  are 
very  fine  gardens,  laid  out  with  much  taste, 
abounding  with  fig,  orange,  lemon,  and  many 
other  fruit  trees.  Each  garden  had  a  well  near 
it,  from  which  water  was  drawn  by  horses,  and 
wheel  machinery ;  but  as  I  could  not  examine 
them,  I  will  not  attempt  a  particular  description 
It  is  strongly  fortified  next  to  tbe  sea.  In  tlm 
town,  were  a  number  of  zhams,  or  mosques  for  re- 
ligious worship.  The  buildings  are  compactk 
and  well  built  of  stone;  and,  as  is  almost  uni- 
versally the  case  through  the  whole  country. 
plaistered  or  whitewashed,  having  a  neat  anet 
handsome  appearance.  Thei  ?  are  a  great  num- 
ber of  narrow  streets  or  aJ  eys  leading  into  the 
principal  street  upon  the  river,  some  of  which 
are  long  and  handsomely  built.  The  street  up- 
on the  river,  in  which  is  the  great  market,  was 
thronged  by  people  of  almost  every  description, 
I  there  saw  Jews,  Turk*  fcrir  peans,  Greeks. 
Arabs,  Shilluhs,  and  people  from  all  the  Barba 
ry  states;  each  using  his  native  tongue,  each 
dressed  in  the  mode  of  his  country,  and  each 
showing  their  peculiar  manners. 

The  Jews  in  this  place,  as  at  Mogadore,  have 
a  section  of  the  town  exclusively  occupied  by 
the-m.  The  Moors  constitute  the  principal  pop- 
ulation; biit  the  number  of  inhabitants  1  did  not 
learn,  and  cannot  estimate  any  otherwise  than 
by  saying,  that  the  town  is  more  compactly  built 


266  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

than   Mogadore,  and  covers,   I  should  judge. 
nearly  double  the  quantity  of  ground. 

The  river  admits  vessels  of  burthen,  and  1 
there  saw  a  Spanish,  a  French,  and  a  Portuguese 
vessel,  and  a  small  Moorish  frigate  lying  at  an- 
chor. From  its  appearance  to  me,  it  was  a  place 
of  the  greatest  trade  upon  the  western  coast  of 
Africa,  and  altogether  the  best  and  safest  harbor. 
It  is  entered  through  a  narrow  channel,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  which  then  widens  into  a 
large  bay.  A  sand  bar  lies  off  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  which  may  be  passed  with  vessels  drawing 
eight  feet  of  water,  as  such  were  loading  when 
I  was  there ;  and  as  the  tide  rises  eight  or  ten 
feet,  vessels  of  much  larger  burthen  may  then 
pass  in  and  out.  I  continued  rambling  about  the 
place  until  the  hour  of  refreshment  and  rest*- 

Upon  the  30th  we  remained  in  this  town- and 
I  was  constantly  upon  the  foot,  examining  every 
natural  and  artificial  curiosity  that  fell  within  my 
observation.  There  were  various  manufactories 
of  blankets,  cottons,  silks,  woollen  cloths,  lea- 
ther, earthen-ware  and  some  few  of  hard-ware, 
especially  of  muskets,  scimitars,  and  cutlasses. 

I  saw  immense  quantities  of  shad  caught  in  the 
same  manner  as  they  are  taken  in  the  rivers  of 
New  England.  They  were  of  excellent  flavor, 
and  of  the  same  size  and  appearance  of  those 
here  caught. 

Mr.  Abouderham  paid  for  our  apartments,  and 
supplied  us  gratuitously  with  a  quantity  of  excel- 
lent bread.  Having  ourselves  procured  the  other 
necessary  provisions  for  four  or  five  days,  we  left 
this  place  upon  the  morning  of  the  31st,  halving 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  26? 

been  treated  with  the  greatest  politeness  and 
hospkality  by  the  Consul,  of  whom  we  now  took 
leave,  and  passed  the  river  in  a  ferry  boat,  to 
the  town  of  Sallee,  lying  upon  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  and  about  a  mile  from  its  banks.     I 
had  learned  at  Rabat,  that  a  Jewish  feast  wae 
to  be  holden  this  day  in  that  place,  and  in  this. 
Great  numbers  of  bullocks  were  slain  the  last 
day  I  remained  in  Rabat,  and  almost  the  first 
striking  object  that  attracted  my  attention  in  this 
place,  was  a  great  number  of  Jews,  richly  dress- 
ed, marching  in  procession,  barefooted,  each  ha- 
ving the  Old  Testament  before  him,  and  each 
reading  aloud.     We  remained  spectators,  until 
the  whole  passed,  and  saw  the  street  strewed 
with  flowers.    We  then  passed  directly  through 
the  town;  which  is  a  place  of  considerable  size, 
having  a  number  of  mosques,  and  is  strongly 
walled  and  fortified  by  numerous  pieces  of  can- 
non.   In  the  vicinity  were  beautiful  gardens  fill- 
ed   with  the  fruits  and  vegetables  common  to 
this  part  of  the  country.     It  also  produced  cot- 
ton, and  I  saw  numbers  engaged  in  manufactur- 
ing that  article.     The  people,  judging  of  them 
from  threir  deportment  toward  us,  retain  the  fe- 
rocious manners  of  the  ancient  inhabitants,  who 
were  a  swarm  of  pirates.     They  menaced  us  as 
we   passed,   denouncing  us  as  Christian  dogs  ; 
and  had  it  not  been  for  the  presence  and  autho- 
rity of  our  alcayd,  the  other  having  left  us  at 
Rabat,  bound  to  Fez,  Ave  should  undoubtedly 
have  found  our  passage  impracticable,  and  have 
been  in  danger  of  our  lives. 

We  passed  out  through  the  north  gate,  and  at 


288  BOBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

a  mile's  distance,  came  to  a  broad  high  wall,  ha 
ving  three  arched  gateways  as  passages  through 
it  This  wall  extends  as  much  as  three  miles  ; 
upon  the  top  of  which  is  an  aqueduct,  from 
which  the  water  descends  into  an  artificial  wa- 
tering place,  near  the  arches,  and  supplies  the 
town  of  Sallee.  It  has  the  appearance  of  great 
strength  and  antiquity.  The  country,  as  we  pro- 
ceeded on,  was  generally  level  and  very  fertile 
Toward  noon  we  passed  near  the  borders  of  a 
lake  of  fresh  water,  about  two  miles  in  length, 
and  an  half  mile  in  breadth  ;  and  by  the  middle 
of  the  afternoon,  we  were  ferried  over  a  river  of 
a  mile  in  width.  I  learned  the  name  of  this  river 
to  be  Midiah,  and  saw  near  its  mouth  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  fortified  town,  with  fortifications 
ouiit  in  the  Portuguese  manner.  This  town  is 
called  Mamora ;  but  we  did  not  enter  it.  The 
ferryman  stole  my  only  pair  of  shoes,  which  were 
supplied  by  another  pair  obtained  from  the  al 
cayd.  We  soon  cane  to  a  douar,  and  tarried 
there  through  the  night. 

Upon  the  first  of  April,  we  continued  to  travel 
ihrough  a  country  somewhat  hilly,  having  douars 
of  tents,  droves  of  cattle,  and  numerous  inhabi- 
tants. At  9  A.  M.  we  reached  the  end  of  a  large 
lake,  having  a  number  of  small  islands,  upon 
which  I  discovered  saint-houses  erected.  It  a- 
bounded  with  ducks,  and  a  great  number  ot 
small  boats, or  rather  rafts, filled  with  the  natives, 
were  hunting  them.  Through  the  whole  day  we 
travelled  upon  the  western  borders  of  this  lake, 
and  at  night  put  up  within  a  few  rods  of  its  shore. 
We  wore  refreshed  with  fowls  and  eggs  procu- 


BOBBINS'  JOUBNAL.  269 

red  for  a  trifling  sum?  indeed,  for  the  whole  pas- 
sage, provisions  were  obtained  at  the  cheapest 
rate,  and  of  excellent  quality.  The  next  morn- 
ing we  crossed  the  north  end  of  this  lake,  and 
had  a  distant  view  of  the  town  of  Laraiche,  leav- 
ing it  upon  our  left,  and  bearing  to  the  eastward 
toward  a  large  town,  situated  upon  the  banks  of 
the  river  Sdboo.  We  reached  this  river  at  night, 
having  passed  by  many  villages  with  thatched 
roof  cottages.  We  lodged  upon  the  south  banks 
of  the  river,  upon  which  were  many  of  the  finest 
gardens  that  can  be  imagined.  They  abounded 
with  Qvery  tree,  shrub,  and  vegetable  calculated 
to  charm  the  eye,  and  gratify  the  appetite.  I 
never  before,  nor  since,  beheld  a  scene  so  per- 
fectly enchanting.  It  reminded  the  traveller  of 
the  finest  descriptions  of  romance,  and  made  him 
think  of  the  Elysian  Fields. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the-  3d,  we  reached 
the  high  banks  of  the  Saboo,  which  was  a  narrow 
stream,  and  forded  it.  The  passage  from  the 
river  to  the  town  had  that  kind  of  beauty  which 
renders  the  power  of  description  feeble.  The 
town  avis  ahriont  concealed  from  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  by  labyrinths  composed  of  almost  eve- 
ry species  of  the  most  beautiful  fruit  trees.  The 
town  was,  to  appearance,  of  very  great  extent. 
The  houses  which  T  saw  were  low ;  very  thickly 
built,  and  thatched  with  coarse  grass.  I  was 
struck  with  the  great  number  of  mosques.  The 
one  I  passed  was  about  ten  feet  square  at  the 
base,  diminishing  but  very  little  to  the  top,  and 
was  at  least  sixty  feet  in  height.  In  passing  the 
whole  town,  I  counted  fwenty-eight  of  these 
Z2 


270  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

mosques.  I  regretted  exceedingly  that  I  could 
not  have  entered  the  town,  which,  from  its  ex- 
tent, and  every  appearance,  induced  me  to  con- 
clude that  it  contained  the  greatest  population 
of  any  town  J  had  seen  in  the  country.  I  noticed 
three  funeral  processions  in  the  suburbs.  The 
name  of  this  place,  as  I  learned,  is  Dar-el  Hama- 
ra.  We  stopped  upon  the  borders  of  the  place, 
until  provisions  were  obtained,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded upon  our  journey  some  distance  from 
the  sea,  through  a  clay  country  of  hills  and  val- 
ises, abounding  with  small  streams  of  water,  and 
at  night  lodged  at  a  douar. 

Upon  the  fourth,  we  passed  over  a  very  high 
mountain,  covered  with  wood  and  abounding 
with  wild  boars,  which  the  natives  called  helloof. 
From  this  place  I  had  a  view  of  the  Rock  of  Gib- 
raltar to  the  northward,  and  of  Mount  Atlas  to  the 
eastward.  There  were  vast  numbers  of  cork- 
wood trees,  with  rough  bark  three  or  four  inch- 
es thick,  from  which  the  cork  is  manufactured. 
Many  of  them  were  entirely  stripped  of  their 
bark.  They  resemble  the  oak  of  our  country. 
Upon  descending  the  mountain,  we  reached  an 
extensive  level  country  filled  with  tents  and 
thatched  huts  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  We 
lodged  at  a  small  stone  church  devoted  to  the 
use  of  travellers  and  religious  worship. 

Upon  the  5th  da.y  of  April,  at  about  10,  A.  M. 
we  reached  the  town  of  Tangier,  and  were  con- 
ducted to  the  house  of  the  Hon.  James  Simpson. 
American  consul  general  at  that  place.  He 
received  us  with  dignified  affability,  welcomed 
us  to  his  house,  and  rejoiced  at  the  prospect  we 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  27  J 

now  had  of  a  speedy  return  to  our  country. 
Brown,  Davis,  and  I  were  conducted  to  a  board- 
ing house,  and  were  requested  to  visit  him  as 
often  as  possible  during  our  stay.  The  town  of 
Tangier  is  too  well  known  to  need  from  me  a 
description,  indeed  I  little  thought  of  noticing 
any  surrounding  object,  I  was  so  completely  en- 
grossed with  the  delightful  and  exhilarating 
thought  of  leaving  a  country  in  which  I  had  gone 
through  almost  "  all  the  variety  of  untried  being." 
Upon  the  6th,  being  Sunday,  we  remained  at 
our  quarters  most  of  the  day  ;  we  however  saw 
many  Spaniards  resorting  to  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic churches  to  attend  divine  service.  For  al- 
most two  years  I  had  dragged  out  a  miserable 
existence  among  the  followers  of  Mahomet,  and 
this  was  the  first  time,  for  that  period,  excepting 
at  Mr.  Wiltshire's,  that  I  had  observed  men  ofc 
fering  adoration  to  the  Saviour  of  the  World.  A 
flood,  of  ideas  rushed  into  my  mind.  I  was  in 
sight  of  the  bay  of  Gibraltar,  from  which  we 
sailed  in  the  Commerce.  The  scenes  through 
which  my  shipmates  and  I  had  passed  since  that 
time  hurried  through  my  memory.  I  cast  my 
eye  toward  my  beloved  country,  and  reflected, 
with  delight,  that  some  of  them  were  enjoying 
its  blessings.  1  also,  in  imagination,  retraced 
the  desert  of  Zahara,  and  the  coast  of  Africa, 
and  remembered  with  excruciating  anguish,  that 
Mr.  Williams,  Barrett,  Hogau,  Antonio,  and 
Dick,  were  either  enduring  the  sufferings  from 
which  I  had  escaped,  or  were  relieved  from  them 
by  a  miserable  death.  The  only  consolation  I 
found  from  this  distreesiag  consideration  was. 


272  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

that  the  same  Merciful  Being,  who  had  snatch- 
ed me  from  the  accumulated  horrors  that  had 
long  surrounded  me,  might  also  save  them. 

Upon  Monday  morning,  (7th,)  Mr.  Simpson 
sent  a  messenger,  requesting  us  to  visit  his 
splendid  gardens  two  miles  from  town.  We  im- 
mediately repaired  thither.  They  were  situa- 
ted upon  the  top  of  an  elevated  hill  which  he,  in 
veneration  for  the  imperishable  honor  of  his 
great  compatriot  in  the  revolutionary  war,  has 
dignified  with  the  name  of  Mount  Washington. 
Mr.  Simpson  is  a  venerable  old  man,  of  seventy 
years  ;  and,  from  his  treatment  to  us,  and  other 
Americans,  shews  that  he  has  not  forgotten  his 
attachment  to  his  unfortunate  countrymen  in  the 
exalted  station  he  filis,  and  the  splendor  that 
surrounds  him. 

From  these  delightful  gardens  Tangier  pre- 
sents a  handsome  appeaiance.  The  houses 
are  low  in  general,  but  the  Consular  residences 
are  very  magnificent.  In  this  place  are  Consuls 
from  America,  France,  Great  Britain,  Sweden, 
Denmark,  Holland,  Spain,  and  Portugal. 

Mr.  Simpson  addressed  a  letter  to  Mr.  B.  Hen- 
ry, American  Consul  at  Gibraltar,  and  delivered 
it  to  a  Spanish  captain  upon  the  8th.  Upon  that 
day,  at  4,  P.  M.  we  entered  on  board  a  small 
Spanish  vessel,  and  left  the  continent  of  Africa. 
We  arrived  at  Gibraltar  early  the  next  morning, 
the  passage  being  about  thirty  miles.  Upon  uie 
9th  of  April,  1817,  the  health  officer  came  on 
board,  and  immediately  gave  us  liberty  to  land 
at  the  port.  We  were  immediately  conducted 
to  the  residence       Mr  Henry.     Upon  reading 


ROBBIJNS'  JOURNAL  273 

the  letter  of  Mr.  Simpson,  he  gave  us  a  small  sum 
of  money  to  refresh  ourselves  with,  for  which  he 
required  a  receipt.     He  ordered  us  to  appear 
before  him  at  4,  P.  M.  which  we  did.     He  then 
told  us  that  it  was  too  expensive  for  us  to  live  on 
shore,  and  that  we  must  go  on  board  the  U.  S. 
brig  Spark,  then  lying  at  Gibraltar,  until  we 
could  get  a  passage  to  America,  adding,  that  she 
was  in  want  of  hands,  and  that  by  entering  on 
board,  we  might  obtain  clothing  from  our  ad- 
vance pay.     As  much  as  we  needed  clothing, 
our  weakness  was  such  as  totally  incapacitated 
us  from  doing  duty  on  board  a  public  vessel,  and 
in  that  way  to  procure  them.     We  little  expect- 
ed to  be  received  by  an  American  consul,  and 
treated  in  this  manner,  after  the  tender  treat- 
ment we  had  met  with  from  an  alcayd  of  Moroc- 
co, Mr.  Wiltshire,  and  Mr.  Simpson.     By  good 
fortune,  without  the  aid  of  Mr.  Henry,  we  fell  in 
with  Capt.  Stanwood,  of  the  ship  Hero,  bound  to 
Boston,  on  board  of  which  Brown  and  I  entered. 
We  went  ashore  frequently,  and  applied  to  Mr. 
Henry  for  clothing.     He  told  us  he  thought  we 
had  clothing  sufficient,  and  shewed  the  most  per- 
fect indifference  to  our  applications.     Knowing 
that  we  were  in  an  unfit  situation  to  commence 
a  voyage  to  America,  and  being  totally  destitute 
of  resources  ourselves,  I  ventured  to  write  to 
Consul  Simpson,  at  Tangier,  entreating  his  as- 
sistance.    As  soon  as  a  return  could  be  had,  I 
received  from  that  benevolent  gentleman  the  fol- 
lowing answer : 

Tangier,  17th  April,  1817. 
Sir — Yesterday  I  received  your  letter  of  the 


274  ROBBINS'  JOURNAL. 

14th  inst.  and  hope  you  may,  with  your  two  com- 
panions, be  at  last  accommodated  with  a  passage 
in  the  ship  Hero;  that  you  may  all  speedily  be  re- 
stored to  your  country  and  families. — Let  Davis 
inform  the  relations  of  George  Hall,  that  the  Spa- 
nish consul  here  has  promised  me,  the  Spaniard, 
who  is  the  cause  of  his  not  having  obtained  his 
freedom  with  them  (Brown  and  Davis)  shall  be 
forthwith  redeemed. 

They  may  rely  on  Hall  being  freed  at  some 
time,  should  Mr.  Wiltshire  not  be  able  to  effect 
it  before,  by  reason  of  the  Arab  persisting  in  his 
determination  not  to  release  the  one  without  the 
other.  I  have  written  Mr.  Henry  on  the  subject 
of  your  being  provided  (the  three)  with  such 
clothing  as  may  be  requested  ;  and  I  have  no 
doubt  but  that  gentleman  will  do  whatever  may 
be  found  necessary  on  the  occasion. 
I  wish  you  well,  and  am, 

Sir,  your  obedient  servant, 
JAMES  SIMPSON 

,  P.  S.  1st — We  have  not  had  any  intelligence 
from  Mogadore  since  you  left  it. 

Mr.  Archibald  Robbins. 

P.  S.  2d — 18th  April.  Advice  has  been  re- 
ceived of  Hall's  redemption  being  agreed,  and 
the  ransom  sent  down.  J.  S. 

The  above  letter  I  found  at  Mr.  Henry's  office. 
The  letter  of  the  American  Consul  general  to 
him  had  an  effect,  which  the  entreaties  of  forlorn 
and  destitute  Americans,  just  escaped  from  Ish- 


ROBBINS'  JOURNAL.  21b 

maelitish  slavery,  could  not  produce ;  and  he 
immediately  furnished  necessary  clothing  to 
Brown  and  myself,  Davis  having  previously  left 
the  Hero. 

Upon  the  30th  April,  Captain  Stanwood  sail- 
ed from  Gibraltar,  and,  after  a  pleasant  passage, 
we  arrived  in  Boston  upon  the  30th  day  of  May, 
1817. 

When  I  landed  at  Boston,  1  entirely  forgot  the 
destitute  situation  I  was  in,  from  the  reflection 
that  I  was  in  the  American  Republic.  My  health 
and  strength  were  restored,  and  I  was  enabled 
to  work  my  passage  on  board  the  schooner 
Pearl,  Capt.  Ingraham,  to  Saybrook.  From 
thence  to  Wethersfield  I  travelled  on  foot,  where 
f  was  received  by  my  connections  and  former 
companions  with  a  cordiality  which  convinced 
me  that  I  was  still  esteemed :  e*nd  that  the  scenes 
of  degradation,  slavery,  and  misery  through 
which  I  had  passed,  instead  of  diminishing.,  had 
augmented  their  attachment. 


THE  END. 


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